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wow its like getting a new car


Tman
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ok i decided i needed my tbi rebuilt (thanks dave) so while taking it apart i noticed a wire in isc broken hrmmmmmm that cant be good soo on with the show (i had a extra) i then decided the air seperator in tbi was a waste of metal soo i removed it also and in stalled a new (used ) greentop injector cleaned and flowed both before installing soooooo i check turbo shaft play while all torn apart no play at allll soooo hrmmm weres smoke comming from maybe valave seals???? any ways did a tps/isc reset put it allll back toigethere and

 

 

 

WELL HELLO LADIESSSSSS

 

 

 

man that thing is some much more responsive and quicker on low end im just sooo happy with it

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what's an ISC? i got rid of that YEARS ago!

 

hehe... glad to see you got your problem fixed.

 

 

 

 

 

whats funny is i didnt even know i had one

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you don't really NEED it per say, but you'll have to manually warm the car up instead of it automatically idling high to warm. i'm willing to do whatever it takes to save weight!
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LOL... it is rather glorious though, eh?

 

Scotty, just let me know when you guys are getting together up in VA again, i'll be down as long as it isn't winter time. HAHA.

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your sure right Tman last week end i spent a day with Eric on his car, he was amaze'd

at what a simple spark plug change and tbi reset did ,and the best part was very little money spent for a huge return ;)

 

like I always said TLC is better then all the money you can find :)

to a point ;)

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I WANT MY INJECTOR BACK FOO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! lol got lucky that that the post office didn't smell the gas on those things

 

 

 

to bad its on my car working great and its staying there

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is there like a step by step tutorial(preferrably with pictures) on how to reset the TBI? keep in mind Im mechanically inept :)

 

 

your in luck but it will take some effort on your part to change the inept mechanical part, several chaptors you will need to review not just this one

http://starquest.i-x.net/viewtopic.php?t=1127

 

if you do not understand what it is your doing then your bound for failure

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wow thats way to complex for me... id rather pay someone.. do you think an average Pep Boys mechanic can do this correctly.. with the emphasis on correctly?

 

 

your not paying attention it's not all that complicate'd PQ makes a lot of stuff look a lot worse then it actualy is,, i gave you the links so you could educate your self a little on how the system works ,, your on line with a computer and on this site reading this so you can and are able to do this operation,, and as far as any mechanic being able to do this for you, it's very unlikely ,unless he just happens to be a fan of the car and has own'd one himself ,, he'd have to do the same as you educate him self on the system befor doing any of the adjustments,,

 

in it's self the entire procedure takes about 15 minutes,,the thing is you need to be able to tell if the part your adjusting is good or bad,, a bad part will never perform as it should no matter how you adjust it ,,

even doing all the componet testing the entire thing won't take more then 45 minutes

basicly all you need is a digital and analog volt ohm meter and simple test light and you can test the entire system

 

ok lets go thru a little and you can see right away if the ISC is working or not,, connect the posi lead of the volt meter to the wire as told in the adj procedures,, while watching the volt meter have a helper turn the ign key on and off a few times waiting about 20 sec befor changeing the position of the swt,,do this 5 or 6 times to make sure the results are the same each time ,, if the ISC motor is working properly (runing in and out ) the volt meter will read high each time the ign key is turn'd on and after 10-15 sec slowly drop down to .90 volts if the MPS is adjust'd properly ,, on average the volts will climb to 1.75 to 2.00 volts befor droping down, it ill do this each time you cycle the ign key but be sure to wait 20 sec it is a slow operation ,,if the voltages change durring the key on and off cycleing it tells you three things the ecu is seeing the key on and off , and the ISC is working in both directions,, and the MPS is changeing it's position as it should with the ISC runing

 

now that wasn't so hard was it;)

to touch the wires in the MPS and tps connector i have found a long thin sharp pick works best , you can slide the pick along side the connector terminal and it'l hold it's self in place,, be sure to not touch the fuel return pipe with the pick while doing the test or it'l short out the readings , the same pick is helpful in pulling up the rubber seal caps on the rear of the connectors , but a small screw driver is better for pressing them back in place when your done

 

another thing that most guys have a hard time understanding is , how can the same screw use'd to adjust the MPS be use'd to adjust the idle rpms

simple the ecu is moveing the ISC any time the screw is turn'd while the ISC connector is still connect'd to keep the idle stop in the same position,, once you unplug the ISC connector to do the Idle rpms adjustment,, the ecu can no longer MOVE the idle stop so it now can adjust the real idle rpms ,make sure you run a jumper from the nose swt wire in the vehicle end of the ISC connector to ground,,this tells the ecu that the engine is at idle,,and is the only way it can know this , the nose swt wire is the one across from the two ISC run terminals that are real close togather

 

befor any of this is done care needs to be taken to insure you have no vacuum leaks and that all other adjusts have been made such as ign timeing set,, basicly any thing that will effect the engines idle will also effect the adjustments your about to make to the base idle rpms

adjust the base idle to 850-900 rpms with the engine fully warm'd up , if you do not warm up the engine it will change due to the CTS signal changeing when the engine does warm up,, the CTS is the main sensor the ecu uses to determine the rpms the engine needs to be at ,,

 

i normaly do the TPS adjustment with the ISC disconnect'd this ensure's the ecu is not changeing the ISC position, basicly do it with the connector still in the same position it was when doing the idle rpms adjusting with the nose swt still ground'd

 

do not expect the MPS, TPS , adj procedures to cure all ailments it only is a fine tuneing adjustment ment to work with all systems working properly ,if you have other problems it will still have them when done,and most likely will make redoing these adjustment nessarry to be redone later after they are fix'd

Edited by Shelby
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wow thats way to complex for me... id rather pay someone.. do you think an average Pep Boys mechanic can do this correctly.. with the emphasis on correctly?

 

 

 

 

 

it sounds wayyyyyyyyyy harder then it is its really easy if you can use a volt ohm meter

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