my RHD conversion so far

[oxorockmanoxo]

i tried to document as much as i can. please dont judge the methods or the workmanship on my project. for the amount of time and tools i had available at the time, i am actually very proud of my work. hope this helps any of you that have been thinking about ever doing this conversion.

 

this is my first how-to ever, i just hope it helps. also, although reversing the sides, i will refer to everything as passenger/driver side as the side they were on originally. i hope you dont get confused. there alot of pics, and i apologize if they are too big or if they slow your comp down.

 

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

first. i would like to informally thank DJpowerHaus for his comment and help in this forum: http://www.starquestclub.com/forums/viewto...p;highlight=rhd.

 

then i also got alot of information from here: http://home.exetel.com.au/starion/steering_conversion.htm.

 

i also so far have used all original parts. the car steers great and stops very well, without importing anything. i decided to either hack the original dash, or even perhaps custom make an aluminum one. this project is actually not that expensive to accomplish, just very time consuming.

 

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

first off, you will need to pull out the motor. then you will need to remove anything and everything from the front seats forward: seats, dash, consoles, steering column, etc. you will also need to remove the abs and all a/c components, you will no longer be able to run the a/c or abs if pursuing this conversion (im sure you can of course, just more work for you, i wasnt running either on my other starion already, so i dont plan on running them on this one either). it may also be easier to remove the windshield wiper motor, but can be put back in after installing the throttle cable and brake booster. i was unable to document this process as this car was already gutted completely and only had a mock-up 4g64 installed, which was easily removed.

 

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

with the engine gone, i first cut a hole out in the passenger wheel well right next to the frame well. part of the wheel well will also be needed to be pounded out from the engine bay side to fit the steering box.

 

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d13/oxorockmanoxo/sq%20rhd%20conversion/CIMG1147.jpg

 

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d13/oxorockmanoxo/sq%20rhd%20conversion/CIMG1151.jpg

 

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

take off the relay rod from both the steering box side and idler arm. remove the castleated nuts and pound the joints off. becareful not to mess up the nut, threads, or joint. with those off, the relay rod and tie rod ends should droop down out of the way easily.

 

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d13/oxorockmanoxo/sq%20rhd%20conversion/CIMG1149.jpg

 

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d13/oxorockmanoxo/sq%20rhd%20conversion/CIMG1150.jpg

 

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

i then removed the three bolts hold the steering box and idler arm to the frame rails. the bolt locations are identical on both sides. the nut is not welded to the rail so will need to be held with a socket.

 

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d13/oxorockmanoxo/sq%20rhd%20conversion/CIMG1148.jpg

 

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

here it is with the steering box and idler removed.

 

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d13/oxorockmanoxo/sq%20rhd%20conversion/CIMG1152.jpg

 

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

you then slide the steering box through the hole cut in the wheel well so that it will bolt to the frame rail from inside the wheel well exactly as the idler arm was. then you bolt the idler arm on the drivers side on the inside of the frame rail just as the steering box used to be. essentially, you just swapped the two items.

 

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d13/oxorockmanoxo/sq%20rhd%20conversion/CIMG1153.jpg

 

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d13/oxorockmanoxo/sq%20rhd%20conversion/CIMG1154.jpg

 

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

re-attach the relay rod to the steering box and idler arm. here it is up to this step.

 

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d13/oxorockmanoxo/sq%20rhd%20conversion/CIMG1155.jpg

 

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

inside the cabin, remove the throttle pedal assembly entirely: pedal, cables (throttle and cruise), mounting bracket.

 

under the hood, remove the bracket holding the the brake resovoir and unbolt the master cylinder from the brake booster. do not remove any brake lines as to keep as much fluid in the system as possible. the lines should be allow to move the master forward enough to remove the booster.

 

inside the cabin again, remove the cotter pin holding the pedal to the brake booster piston. then unbolt the brake booster. the bracket holding the brake pedal is also held on by the nuts of the booster, and should come off when the 4 nuts are removed. pull away the bracket.

 

(STEPS NOT PICTURED...SORRY)

 

under the hood again, remove the brake booster. here it is with the brake booster removed from both sides.

 

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d13/oxorockmanoxo/sq%20rhd%20conversion/CIMG1168.jpg

 

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d13/oxorockmanoxo/sq%20rhd%20conversion/CIMG1166.jpg

 

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

as you can see here from under the hood, the steering column should almost fit exactly through the a/c hole already in the firewall. the brake booster will need to be mounted where the abs modulator was, so the bracket will need to be removed (the clutch master also mounts there, so remove the brack completely and cleanly).

 

inside, i used the steering column boot to outline the size needed to cut for the actual steering column. then i used the brake pedal bracket and held it up to where it matched with the outline as it originally did on the drivers side. i then outlined the holes for the brake booster by using the bracket.

 

(NO PICS AGAIN)

 

with those outlined, i then cut the holes needed and drilled holes for the bolts of the brake booster. here it is from both sides with everything cut out.

 

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d13/oxorockmanoxo/sq%20rhd%20conversion/CIMG1169.jpg

 

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d13/oxorockmanoxo/sq%20rhd%20conversion/CIMG1170.jpg

 

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

make sure the wheels are as straight as you can get them. reinstall steering column making sure it is also as straight as possible.

 

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d13/oxorockmanoxo/sq%20rhd%20conversion/CIMG1171.jpg

 

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

i used a makeshift corner bracket to loosely hold the brake pedal bracket up so i could line it up with the brake booster. make sure you line up the pedal with the bracket on the piston. with everything lined up and in place, fully tighten and install the brake assemblies. with the brake bracket installed, you can then mount the rest of the steering column together onto the brake pedal bracket.

 

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d13/oxorockmanoxo/sq%20rhd%20conversion/CIMG1172.jpg

 

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d13/oxorockmanoxo/sq%20rhd%20conversion/CIMG1174.jpg

 

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d13/oxorockmanoxo/sq%20rhd%20conversion/CIMG1175.jpg

 

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d13/oxorockmanoxo/sq%20rhd%20conversion/CIMG1173.jpg

 

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

inside the cabin, for the throttle pedal, there is a little hump on the inside of the wheel well that is just about the right height and distance away from the brake pedal to mount the bracket. holding the bracket up, i marked the position of the holes and drilled into the wheel well.

 

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d13/oxorockmanoxo/sq%20rhd%20conversion/CIMG1177.jpg

 

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

because that hump sticks out further than the firewall, you will have to bend the pedal backwards to match it with the level of the brake pedal. to get the height correct, i notched the original holes of the bracket so i could adjust pedal height and just tighten it fully when mounted.

 

(PICTURES NOT OF COMPLETE BENDING AND NOTCHING. IT REQUIRED TO BE BENT A BIT FURTHER AND TO BE NOTCHED TO MOVE IT HIGHER.)

 

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d13/oxorockmanoxo/sq%20rhd%20conversion/CIMG1178.jpg

 

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d13/oxorockmanoxo/sq%20rhd%20conversion/CIMG1179.jpg

 

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

to mount the throttle cable there is a position to the right of the brake pedal bracket on the firewall that slopes in. i drilled holes and mounted the throttle cable so that from under the hood the cable goes up and towards the drivers side. fully mount the the cable and connect it to the pedal.

 

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d13/oxorockmanoxo/sq%20rhd%20conversion/CIMG1180.jpg

 

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d13/oxorockmanoxo/sq%20rhd%20conversion/CIMG1182.jpg

 

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

inside, disconnect the clutch pedal from the piston and remove the lower nut holding the clutch master.

 

(NOT PICTURED)

 

under the hood, remove the clutch line and plug the master and the line to not lose fluid and make so much of a mess. then remove the bolt holding the clutch resovoir. take off the nut holding the top of the clutch master and slide it outward and remove the master completely.

 

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d13/oxorockmanoxo/sq%20rhd%20conversion/CIMG1183.jpg

 

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d13/oxorockmanoxo/sq%20rhd%20conversion/CIMG1184.jpg

 

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

inside, remove the two bolts holding the clutch pedal bracket up. try to hold the bracket up on the other side in relation to the brake pedal and mark the firewall where to drill and cut holes so that it matches (not mirrors) the original holes on the drivers side.

 

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d13/oxorockmanoxo/sq%20rhd%20conversion/CIMG1185.jpg

 

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d13/oxorockmanoxo/sq%20rhd%20conversion/CIMG1186.jpg

 

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d13/oxorockmanoxo/sq%20rhd%20conversion/CIMG1187.jpg

 

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

mount the clutch pedal bracket. first put it up loosely. is used a bracket i found (i dont know the name of the bracket, but i just went to ace hardware and picked up about 6 ft of the material. hopefully you know what it is after seeing the pics). with that up, you can put up the clutch master and begin to slowly tighten everything. make sure that the pedal is lined up with the piston, tighten everything up.

 

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d13/oxorockmanoxo/sq%20rhd%20conversion/CIMG1190.jpg

 

under the hood, loosen the bottom half of the clutch resovoir on the top of the master so you can swivel it around. mount it to the firewall.

 

 

here it is up to this point from the inside and out.

 

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d13/oxorockmanoxo/sq%20rhd%20conversion/CIMG1189.jpg

 

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d13/oxorockmanoxo/sq%20rhd%20conversion/CIMG1188.jpg

 

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d13/oxorockmanoxo/sq%20rhd%20conversion/CIMG1192.jpg

 

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d13/oxorockmanoxo/sq%20rhd%20conversion/CIMG1193.jpg

 

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

according to the webpage link i provided, you can cut off and re-weld the steering support onto the other side. i however, do not have a welder handy, and of the few times i have welded, i am not the best.

 

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d13/oxorockmanoxo/sq%20rhd%20conversion/CIMG1168.jpg

 

so going back to the bracket i bought at ace, i made my own steering support. i did cut the original support out, but only to fit the support that i made. i hope that pics will be able to speak for themselves on how to do this.

 

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d13/oxorockmanoxo/sq%20rhd%20conversion/CIMG1270.jpg

 

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d13/oxorockmanoxo/sq%20rhd%20conversion/CIMG1271.jpg

 

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d13/oxorockmanoxo/sq%20rhd%20conversion/CIMG1269.jpg

 

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d13/oxorockmanoxo/sq%20rhd%20conversion/CIMG1280.jpg

 

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d13/oxorockmanoxo/sq%20rhd%20conversion/CIMG1279.jpg

 

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

disconnect all hydraulic lines from the brake master. you can leave the resovoir still connected. bolt it on to the booster. loosen the caps on the master to rotate them to be able to mount the resovoir on the opposite side of the master now. also loosen the rubber hoses to be able to rotate them so there will be no kinks. bolt the resovoir onto the firewall.

 

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d13/oxorockmanoxo/sq%20rhd%20conversion/CIMG1276.jpg

 

for the break and clutch lines, i used most all the original lines. of course you can put all new lines, but i was on a budget and did not find it to be a life or death situation.

 

first i removed the line originally coming from the brake master going to the abs modulator.

 

i then used the line originally going to the r/f wheel for use on the l/f wheel now. i disconnected the end going to the caliper and reconnected it to the master for the l/f wheel. on the other end of that line, i bought a brake line coupler and attatched that end to the original l/f line.

 

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d13/oxorockmanoxo/sq%20rhd%20conversion/CIMG1274.jpg

 

for the r/f line, this was the only new line i bought. i bought a 15" line and installed it to the line going to the caliper and then to the master.

 

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d13/oxorockmanoxo/sq%20rhd%20conversion/CIMG1275.jpg

 

i then took the line still connected to the rear portioning valve and attatched the other end directly into the port of the master that originally went to the abs modulator.

 

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d13/oxorockmanoxo/sq%20rhd%20conversion/CIMG1276.jpg

 

for the clutch i just reused the old line. i rebent it and fit it and just connected it to the clutch master.

 

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d13/oxorockmanoxo/sq%20rhd%20conversion/CIMG1277.jpg

 

then just bleed the crap out of everything.

 

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

here it is with the lines, steering support, and everything up to this point.

 

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d13/oxorockmanoxo/sq%20rhd%20conversion/CIMG1273.jpg

 

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d13/oxorockmanoxo/sq%20rhd%20conversion/CIMG1278.jpg

 

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

in the end, everything works great. i just moved, and instead of getting a trailer, i just used some chains and pulled it across town. car steered great and stopped very well. like i said, this car came gutted and had no real motor. all the work above took me a good 10-12 hours split into 4 days. should be a while until any more major work. ill keep it updated as it happens. thanks for looking.

 

- adrian

[AndyW]

Looks like someone needs to invest in a plasma cutter. You definitly have some ambition man, wow! fist a gullwing car being built now a RHD one?! This is turning out to be a hell of a year for firsts!

[shift1313]

i agree you have some ambition. I would never have tackled that project without the right tools. I would seriously seriously consider a welder, even a $200 from lowes will weld sheet metal. If you get in an accident with that car that perforated angle stuff you might get seriously hurt.

 

I definately applaud your work and i know you said dont make fun of what you did with the tool available i just would hate to see you get injured.

 

keep us updated

[questnation]

i do applaud you for the work, would love to see the ending results. good job

[starion1991]

wow!!!!! nice job so far, cant wait to see this thing finished

[Scotty Dont]

adrian if you need any help just let me know im right over the hill :wink: i might have some tools u need

[Alcyone]

in a word (actually two)

SCREW THAT.........

 

 

mucho applauso

for the dedication!

[Blind_Drifter]

::thumbs up:: Its awesome how you tackled this. Looks like you dont have a dremel or any cutting tool and just used a drill to weaken the metal and punch it out. Determination!

[idriftnaked707]

man my full respect to you! its gonna be sweet once its finished, maybe i can check it out someday im not too far away

[Big Al]

Lookin good. Though I'd definately try to find a RHD dash to put in there. But I'm all about looks when I'm done. if you're just up for functionality then who cares. Definitely do something about those perforated bars they WILL do some damage to you if you (knock on wood) get hit or hit something with that car.

[j-hanson]

glad to see you jumping into such a large project! looks to be much fun! just wanted to re address a statement big al made---you NEED to brace you steering column in a different way. if you get into a front end accident your column will fall into your lap in no time! the metal backstrap material wont stop it..its a safety thing man, have a local race car shop help ya out here if you dont have the resources yourself..

 

josh

[Coke]

=D> Looking good soo far.....

[TopDawg_43]

Looking forward to seeing how this one turns out.

[Technology]

That is one crazy project.

[Bigfrog_12069]

Looking Real good. Can't wait to see it When it moves under its own power. Going to be nice.

[Scotty Dont]

he sold this car guys :hangman:

[TopDawg_43]

he sold this car guys :hangman:

 

 

He must have realized that he was in WAY above his head on that project.

[jwrape]

I always liked the RHD cars but that is just too much work for little reward. But props to you, you are doing a good job.

[shift1313]

who bought it? that would be a tough sell. a hacked up car with no motor.