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S&M strutbars - Install page added- Updated 5/21


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Got mine today!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

 

Me too.. :D

 

The only question I have is, were we only supposed to get 4 washers with 8 bolts?

 

This is the first I had net access. I will get some quick install instructions up.

 

The washers go between the 1" bars ends and the adjuster nut. It's only to protect the aluminum.

 

The total set should have

 

2x 1" bars

2x 3/4" bars

8x 1"x3/8" nuts and bolts

4x 1/2" washers

8x 1/2" 20 nuts

1x firewall bracket

2x front brackets

2x rear brackets

8x clevises

 

I'll get some pictures up this afternoon. I didn't have time before I let. I barely had and sleep the last few days and it was really last minute I was packing.

 

I will keep you all posted later in the day.

 

Shawn

 

p.s. The order for the 1" bar is like this.

 

bracket>clevis>1/2" 20 nut>1/2" washer>1" aluminum<1/2" washer<1/2" 20 nut<clevis<braket

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Yeah, I believe so..

 

The triangulation bars don't get them.

 

I can't say why exactly, we'll have to wait for shawn to comment on it.. But, my theory is that the triangulation bars don't get tensioned nearly as much as the tower-to-tower units.. I'll prolly pick up some for them anyways. :wink:

 

Which brings up another thing. Is the firewall strong/thick enough to be tensioned against? I've had friends with older 72-ish 240z's and they have to weld thicker material in the center spot to keep the firewall from flexing/denting etc...

 

At the point where the firewall bracket is attached, behind it, it is reinforced. If you pull off the grills where the wipers are you can reach down there and feel it. However if you wanted to reinforce it, it's a possibility.

 

The firewall bars don't get as much tension as the main bar. The washers are only for the 1" aluminum to protect the aluminum. If they were there it would mushroom the the ends.

 

Shawn

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I wander if shawns sister shipped the rest of our bars?? [-o<

 

I'll have her ship your's ASAP. This is the first net access since I got here in Brazil. I arrived really late Thursday.

She has a few sets to get out now.

 

I'll let you know when she ships them. Same with your's Rob. I think your payment came today. I'm waiting on her to confirm this.

 

Shawn

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First, I don't have A/C. I only have one bracket there at the connecting point on the firewall, as Shawn has in the pic. So, does the strut brace firewall bracket have to go UNDER that wide, shallow bracket with two raised bumps or can it go OVER it? Mine is hard to pull away from the firewall for the width of the new bracket.

 

Second, when I installed the main bar under the hood I had to thread the bar onto the passenger side clevis bolt. Is this normal? Everything else just slipped over the clevis bolts.

 

Third, how much will the main bar under the hood flex? It almost rests on my FIP air temp. sensor and I don't want to break it off or dent/scratch the crap outta the bar. Thanks

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First, I don't have A/C. I only have one bracket there at the connecting point on the firewall, as Shawn has in the pic. So, does the strut brace firewall bracket have to go UNDER that wide, shallow bracket with two raised bumps or can it go OVER it? Mine is hard to pull away from the firewall for the width of the new bracket.

 

When I first installed mine. I had to take a small screw driver to pull that small bracket away to slip the firewall bracket behind it, so it's directly against the firewall. Some people have put it in front. I really intended it to go behind that piece. If you take a small screw driver behind it, you can pull it out enough to slide the firewall bracket behind it and then bolt is down.

 

Second, when I installed the main bar under the hood I had to thread the bar onto the passenger side clevis bolt. Is this normal? Everything else just slipped over the clevis bolts.

 

This is my fault. The 1/2" ID may have had some burs on the inside and that would be about to cause it not to thread in properly. I should have just quickly cleaned it out with a 1/2 drill bit. This is my fault and I'm sorry I missed this. This won't affect anything though.

 

Third, how much will the main bar under the hood flex? It almost rests on my FIP air temp. sensor and I don't want to break it off or dent/scratch the crap outta the bar. Thanks

 

I designed the GEN II sets to have a straighter bar than the GEN I set, so that the bar is more rigid. There will be a little flex however due to the bar not being completely straight. How much room do you have between the bar and sensor? Most of the flex will be seen in the middle of the bar.

 

Shawn

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It sits right on top of the sensor. I could slide maybe one piece of printer paper between them. I rolled the bar back as far as I could but when I tightened it up it came back to sitting on the sensor. The sensor is in the ovcp so it's not in the center of the bar. Here's a couple of pics from different angles of what I'm trying to say:

 

http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s242/pitboss123/PICT0001-3.jpg

 

http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s242/pitboss123/PICT0002-3.jpg

 

http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s242/pitboss123/PICT0003-3.jpg

 

Maybe I could push the ovcp down more into the coupler there at the tb to give it a bit more room IDK. We'll see.

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It sits right on top of the sensor. I could slide maybe one piece of printer paper between them. I rolled the bar back as far as I could but when I tightened it up it came back to sitting on the sensor. The sensor is in the ovcp so it's not in the center of the bar. Here's a couple of pics from different angles of what I'm trying to say:

 

http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s242/pitboss123/PICT0001-3.jpg

 

http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s242/pitboss123/PICT0002-3.jpg

 

http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s242/pitboss123/PICT0003-3.jpg

 

Maybe I could push the ovcp down more into the coupler there at the tb to give it a bit more room IDK. We'll see.

 

I see what you're saying now. The bar would flew upward though. But I think the best bet is like you said, but the OVCP down a tiny bit. You really won't need much. The other option would be to slightly turn the OVCP,so they don't touch.

 

Shawn

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I don't want to sound rude or anything? I paid on Thursday. Do you know exactly whos bar has been shipped in addition to those stated in the first page. I was just wandering I'm very eager to put the bars on. Thanks

 

Braden

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I don't want to sound rude or anything? I paid on Thursday. Do you know exactly whos bar has been shipped in addition to those stated in the first page. I was just wandering I'm very eager to put the bars on. Thanks

 

Braden

 

No worries about sounding rude! I can understand. I only saw today that I received your payment on Thursday (was in the air all day). Seeing today is my first day with net access. I spoke with my sister and sent her the shipping labels and she will ship these tomorrow.

 

Shawn

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Shaun,

Received my set this past Saturday. They look and fit great. Thanks for doing this Group Purchase. Going to buy another set when you produce some more. An excellent deal for the money.

Thanks again Steve

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Shawn,

I tried to lower the ovcp but nothing doing. It has a little "give" downward due to the coupler, but it's crammed in there as far as it'll go against the tb inlet, plus it rests damn near on the valve cover, so it's as low as it's gonna go.

 

Do you have any of your old main bars still? I believe they were a bit taller and would clear my sensor better. Plus, they had your logo which sadly, these do not :cry:

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Shawn,

I tried to lower the ovcp but nothing doing. It has a little "give" downward due to the coupler, but it's crammed in there as far as it'll go against the tb inlet, plus it rests damn near on the valve cover, so it's as low as it's gonna go.

 

Do you have any of your old main bars still? I believe they were a bit taller and would clear my sensor better. Plus, they had your logo which sadly, these do not :cry:

 

I've been trying to think of a simple solution, but have none. I have some old main bars, but they wouldn't work. They are longer and bent more and are not setup for a 1/2" ID.

The other thing reason you'll need a little room there is for the engine moving a little under load. That side, there's enough room to bend the bar more without hitting the hood.

The best solution is to bend the bar more. However the machine I made, only I know how to use it.

I don't think you can twist the OVCP any to bring the air temp sensor down more. Relocating the sensor is probably something you don't want to do either.

At this point, I'm at a loss till I come back to bend the bar more for you. Something you can try is see if there's a machine shop with a press and have them put a few more degrees on it for you.

 

Shawn

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Got mine today.....I'm very impressed with them....but the bar is too low for my sender unit for fuel pressure :( Guess I won't be reading fuel pressure.....

 

http://img129.imageshack.us/img129/383/ourwedding3009ai8.jpg

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still waiting for mine. now word about it at all.

 

I know my sister sent your's in the middle of last week. It's should be there shortly. Usually it takes 2-4 days, but I've seen it take a week even with priority mail.

 

Shawn

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me as well. im in no rush though. as long as they come.!

 

I will try to confirm again if she sent them. I asked her in a mess of an email and I think she forgot. I'm writing her now and will ask again.

 

Shawn

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