Technology Posted November 22, 2006 Report Share Posted November 22, 2006 Very interesting. I used that formula to figure my horsepower and I came up with 249.7 (basically 250). it was only 18psi fading to maybe 15 by shift time on the stock turbo. That's a dynojet number though. That gt42R should be happier at 700 or 800 hp. I recommend shooting for that. Some severe head porting and custom huge cam and larger tubing might help with that. Overall: I like it a lot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kev Posted November 22, 2006 Report Share Posted November 22, 2006 Inconel is some strong stuff, you will never have a problem with it in an automobile application. The steam generator tubes of nuclear plants are inconel. Their number one cause of failure is 'primary water stress corrosion cracking' which is due to them being in a unique chemistry water bath and highly radioactive! So unless someone here has a nuclear reactor rigged into their block, I don't think this will be an issue hehe. The temperature/pressure these tubes see in plants are 610F/2250 psig. The nice thing about Inconel is that it doesn't rust or even tarnish really. That particular grade of Inconel will just dull out a little bit. Are you welding this with stainless wire and pure argon? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chad Posted November 22, 2006 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2006 inconel 625 wire and 100% argon. I did a lot of research on this topic, seems the 625 is a do-all filler, bonds inconel, but also bonds other alloys pretty well, and is expecialy good for dissimilar metals (inconel to stainless to steel etc.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lidoidol Posted December 11, 2006 Report Share Posted December 11, 2006 I very well may be interested in one in inconel you have any pics? need it with t4/ Tseries flange Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chad Posted December 11, 2006 Author Report Share Posted December 11, 2006 Pics to come soon, I have to change the design for the different diametertubing. It's on the top of my list of things to do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lidoidol Posted January 1, 2007 Report Share Posted January 1, 2007 bumpidy bump bump Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
attack vector Posted January 2, 2007 Report Share Posted January 2, 2007 :shock: Holy beugeezus! That thing is a work of art!!!! NICE! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TicEagle Posted January 3, 2007 Report Share Posted January 3, 2007 I will pass and order for my next setup in 2008... or 2007. :shock: It's awsome. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lidoidol Posted January 5, 2007 Report Share Posted January 5, 2007 Chad, If a divided Tang T4 flange is used will the primaries be grouped for the optimum scavaging effect with the farthest apart firing cylinders grouped together? Also could where the turbo mounts be moved forward slightly to allow the use of a tuned megaphone style downipe. Let me know what the final price is going to be for the inconel...or at least a current ballpark...I know things change along the way :wink: If your getting close on this I want to jump right in so I can start mocking everything up before the car gets painted Thanks Keith Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lidoidol Posted January 5, 2007 Report Share Posted January 5, 2007 / never mind about the pulse stuff just went back read the first post ](*,) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lidoidol Posted January 5, 2007 Report Share Posted January 5, 2007 http://webpages.charter.net/catsamuel/DCP00910.JPG why does it seem like the header flanges is not flat against the head in that pic... when it is does it rotate the tubes closer to the filter/block Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chad Posted January 5, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 5, 2007 that is the mockup set of tubes, the angle at the head was off 10* so I had to just cram the mockup in the engine bay to take that pic and to check fitment/clearance. I have since corrected the prototype tubes that I use for fabrication. The inconel setup will take some time to develop, the tubig is a different diameter so the runers will have to be shorter, which means a whole new jig. Ball park price will be $1500. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chad Posted January 5, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 5, 2007 I also want to change the turbo location on the inconel one to support the massive GT42R, it wouldn't fit on this platform. It you've never seen one, the compressor housing is about 10" in diameter, (about the size of a paper dinner plate). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lidoidol Posted January 6, 2007 Report Share Posted January 6, 2007 :shock: If I saw a functioning 42R on a quest I think I would get a chubby seriously though, I want to be able to run a 6" megaphone back from the turbine into the downpipe... We have done some experiments with this design on DSM's snd supras and had pretty good results. My buddies 900whp 2jz supra is spooling about 600rpm sooner with the same T88 since we turned to this style... My goal is to run the biggest turbo possible while sacrificing the least bottem end... My game is efficiency at this point. If you CC our intake runner and figure a theoretical flow rate at 100% VE, then compare to what it actually does flow, well :puke: I belive the VE of our stock motor to be around 62% roughly... about the same as a 1940 -50's V8 :roll: I have a buddy in north florida thats going to cut apart a couple diff casting heads to see which he can raise the ports the most on... we are working in mm's and smaller. Porting these heads, while sure to improve performance (read: flow) to a point, is no comparison to the gains that could be made by raising the port floor and roof equally thus decreasing turbulence. With our stroke, combined with the size of our ports, we have the ability to draw in massive quanities of air. And remember it is in fact air that makes Horsepower... the more air you can cram in a motor, the more fuel that motor can burn, The more horsepower it can make. Without the air, all you do is see pretty green lines on your pillar and black puffs in your rearview Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alostsoul Posted January 22, 2007 Report Share Posted January 22, 2007 chad, if you were to do one of these and one of your intake manifolds for me, would you cut me a deal? just send me a pm when you get a chance, im not in a huge hurry. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heefner Posted January 22, 2007 Report Share Posted January 22, 2007 Lidoidol,If you are interested in maximum flow from you head contact extremeboost. The last I spoke to him he knew of a process where they x-ray the head and then run a computer sim to model airflow and figure out the best possible port work. It's a little salty at $2k plus but it all in what you want. Trust me this guy knows his S...! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Technology Posted January 24, 2007 Report Share Posted January 24, 2007 As for head stuff, we need to get some aftermarket castings that have big daddy ports. It would need custom intake and exhaust mani's but hey, if you want to play with the big boys and use a forklift motor.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grandpa Posted January 30, 2007 Report Share Posted January 30, 2007 As for head stuff, we need to get some aftermarket castings that have big daddy ports. It would need custom intake and exhaust mani's but hey, if you want to play with the big boys and use a forklift motor.... Word Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lidoidol Posted January 30, 2007 Report Share Posted January 30, 2007 As for head stuff, we need to get some aftermarket castings that have big daddy ports. It would need custom intake and exhaust mani's but hey, if you want to play with the big boys and use a forklift motor.... I wish people would get this right...our ports are huge, way big enough to flow massive quanities of air... its the runner design that sucks. i had posted in another section how to figure the volumetric efficiency of our intake runner, not the whole motor, just the head. well....ours stinks...around 62% efficient :roll: :roll: know some flatheads that are better, the port size is what saves our motor... sure hogging it out will do something but if the air has to make 52 bends just to run into a brick wall then lazily drift around the valve... well you get the point Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JNZTuning Posted January 30, 2007 Report Share Posted January 30, 2007 Just the raw materials are a tad over $770' date=' and that is with a bulk purchase discount. It takes 10 U bends :shock: with only 1/2 a bend left over.[/quote'] If you're interested there are much cheaper (and just as nice) options out there for the collectors, and the schedule 10 T304 bends/piping. If you're interested in pricing, PM me on here and I'll point you to the stuff. Nice work on the manifold. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chad Posted January 30, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2007 Thanks for the tip, nice to have another mamber arround that shares resources :wink: I can get 304 pretty cheaply from a local bender, it's the 321 that is making this project som much $$. 304 is a great material, I just wanted to use 321 because it's gonna last longer in very high heat aplications (drag/dyno cars). I can get the 304 and/or 316 el's for ~$8 each, do you have a scource cheaper than that? I use www.mcmaster.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JNZTuning Posted January 30, 2007 Report Share Posted January 30, 2007 Thanks for the tip, nice to have another mamber arround that shares resources :wink: I can get 304 pretty cheaply from a local bender, it's the 321 that is making this project som much $$. 304 is a great material, I just wanted to use 321 because it's gonna last longer in very high heat aplications (drag/dyno cars). I can get the 304 and/or 316 el's for ~$8 each, do you have a scource cheaper than that? I use www.mcmaster.com If it's welded and braced properly, 304 Schedule 10 will last forever as well. Backpurging, good penetration, not cheating your bends, and good welds are all it takes. (which is looks like you've gotten down) As far as cheaper then McMaster (I used to use them as well) check out: www.acestainless.com http://www.murrayequipment.com/dyncat.asp?...20Weld%20Elbows and http://www.unifiedalloys.com/products/pipe_fittings.asp The biggest thing in this industry is cutting down production costs so that you can charge for your time. I'm glad to see someone actually making some worthwhile parts for these cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JNZTuning Posted January 30, 2007 Report Share Posted January 30, 2007 Oh, and as far as collectors and flanges, check out the Vibrant stuff. I can be VERY competitive on those parts, and they're available in mild or SS, 1/2" and pre-tapped (unlike a lot of others out there). www.vibrantperformance.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JNZTuning Posted January 30, 2007 Report Share Posted January 30, 2007 304 is a great material, I just wanted to use 321 because it's gonna last longer in very high heat aplications (drag/dyno cars). Also, you've listed the least-trying aspects for 304 materials. The only way I'd use 321 is if someone was roadracing the car at higher boost levels. Drag/Dyno cars stress 304 very little if built correctly. I'm not criticizing in the least, but 321 (let alone Inconel) while being un-%&*@*-ing great materials are overkill if built correctly and not being ran at high temps for 30 minutes+ on end. It also prices you out of the market for selling your design to most end users. Just remember that you can gold-plate a POS and post it up on the internet and impress people, but then when the price comes out, no matter how well a part works, you price yourself out of the market. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chad Posted January 30, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2007 I can make a 304 SS version of this manifold for ~$825, less if I can find a cheaper collector from a reputable source. I just haden't persued a 304 manofold yet. Thanks for the tips on the other vendors, Ace is ~10% cheaper than Mcmaster for the elbows I've been getting. Mcmaster used to be a lot cheaper, prices have gone up 20% in the last year. Got a price for a 304 4into1 1-3/4 16 gage slip collector? Burns stainless is $310 :shock: On the back gassing, you ever tried solarflux type-B ? it shields the back of the weld like back-gassing, but it also suports the molten metal so you can penetrate more without getting "noogies" on the inside of the tubing. A $40 can has lasted me 4 years, and I'm only 1/3 of the way though it. since we are sharing prized vendors here, check out: http://store.racing-solutions.org/ his prices are awesome, and quality is on-par with the best. I've used his products on several projects and I have been pleased with the price, service, and quality. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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