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Pics of my Griffin Aluminum Radiator setup


Josh '88
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I got the radiator on Friday and spent all day Saturday installing it. My radiator coolant will only get hot enough to open the 180* thermostat, and that's it! I'm very pleased with this setup, and it was cheaper than having my OEM radiator re-cored. Here's pics of my setup:

 

 

 

http://www.26liter.us/gallery/thumbnails.php?album=152

 

I started off by ordering the radiator from Summit Racing. It cost me $169.xx shipped to my door. Here's a link:

 

http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?...t=egnsearch.asp

 

Once I had the OEM radiator out of the car, I removed the lower bracket that the radiator sat in. I dropped the aluminum radiator in, letting it sit on the strut rod brackets, and took measurements for my lower radiator hose. The lower radiator hose I purchased was model number 22434. It had the perfect angles that I needed, just trim to fit. The upper radiator hose was easy: I just trimmed the OEM upper radiator hose to fit.

 

My radiator brackets were a MAJOR PAIN to fabricate. I wanted to have brackets welded to the radiator, like SMOKINHONDAS24_7's custom setup. I had no access to an aluminum welder, so I made brackets out of steel that would wrap around the radiator to hold it, but also bolt up to the OEM mount locations.

 

Once my brackets were built, I put 1/8" rubber between the radiator & strut rod brackets, so there would be no metal-to-metal contact. I also put rubber between the radiator & brackets.

 

Once my radiator was installed, I started testing the hood to see if it would hit. My hood did hit in 2 places, but BARELY. My hood would completely shut, but I wanted nothing touching the radiator. I took a ball peen hammer and hit the 2 places until they made a small dimple. The picture of the 2 places is where I used "white-out" to see if the hood would hit the radiator.

 

Since I'm running a flex-fan, I didn't have to worry about mounting electric fans or installing any thermosensors.

 

Josh

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Sweet bro, awesome info man.. :D

 

One thing that I see is left out, is the radiator hoses.

What'd you use? I think the top one should be pretty easy, but people have commented on having a hard time finding a lower one that will fit..

 

JustPaus:

 

Thanks for pointing out the hoses. I re-used the OEM upper radiator hose, just trimmed to fit. I did post info about the lower radiator hose. I bought model number 22434. It had the perfect angles I needed, just trimmed it to fit.

 

I'll update the original post to make it easier to understand.

 

Josh

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Nice Josh, do you have any pictures of the bottom? I have a griffin ive been sitting on for 6months, guess I need to get it installed before Dallas.

 

Looks great man,,

 

Steven

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hello there very interesting, yeah i know something about the submit because i have one friend talking about his starion 88, and pretty much he told me that he has a submit radiator aluminum but its not griffin, he told its 4 inch thick and i forgot how long but i believe its a little more taller than the stock radiator but its 4 inch thick(FAT) the brand he told me its (BECOOL) from submmit, he was saying it cost him about 225 last year but he say lately he saw the price last week in his submmit book article, that it cost about 245 to 255 only 20bucks more, thats all, and he put a big fan real strong for about 60 bucks more so total 310 thats all it makes a big difference more lot cooler, and not bad for the money....for the fan and the fat aluminum radiator 4inch FAT.... and little taller than the stock STARION... but i forgot what was the code number i will ask him and also i'm going me with the guys to MOROSO FLORIDA in West Palm Beach RACE TRACK we are going to see the SAKURA running 7 second with the 2.6Liter Turbo Starion/Conquest TSI... big time... that will be great, and there is lots of Carburator system with turbocharge on a 2.6LITER G54B oh man that i have to see that, but anyways i will ask my buddy about the code from submmit that fat aluminum radiator 4 inch thick BECOOL brand.
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  • 2 months later...
Someone once showed me pics of a radiator Griffin made for them. I have pics saved but I don't want this person to get mad for posting his pics. But the radiator measured 1row-1.50 15x75x25.76x1.50 I think.
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  • 1 month later...
  • 4 months later...
Checked out summit.. they are backordered until 6/4/2006 wt....? I got an AFCO on ebay that's similar in size and price if that helps anybody who's still looking for an upgrade.
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  • 2 years later...
Beware!!! they are that cheap for a reason they have epoxy end tanks to the core not welded and epoxy end tanks always fail!!! I know I have one in my car

 

LOL... what?? Your saying your Griffin radiator has failed?? How/What did you use to mount it?? How long did you use it before it failed??

 

Pretty strange. I've built two cars with Griffin radiators, and no failures of any kind. Many many other people here have used Griffin radiators as well, no failures to report.

 

Yours may be the first. Detailed info would be appreciated to go along with your warning message.

 

-Robert

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^^ Link is still good. And the price is still the same.

 

Oh, and the part number for the hose is Gates brand. For a Ford F450... I think, I didn't look that close. It's a gates part number for sure. $10.99 or so.

 

-Robert

Edited by Komeuppance
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LOL... what?? Your saying your Griffin radiator has failed?? How/What did you use to mount it?? How long did you use it before it failed??

 

Pretty strange. I've built two cars with Griffin radiators, and no failures of any kind. Many many other people here have used Griffin radiators as well, no failures to report.

 

Yours may be the first. Detailed info would be appreciated to go along with your warning message.

 

-Robert

 

Epoxied radiators can be an issue over time. An epoxied core will lose it's bond far sooner than the soldered or welded models (from what i have researched usually in a 5-7 year period). Cheaper brands have been known to fail with in the first year. To add the the frustration, most shops will tell you that they cannot be repaired. The plus is that the epoxied radiator cores are typically cheaper, and can sometimes be replaced for the cost of a repair or "rodding" out of a welded/soldered core.

 

Another problem these MIGHT present is when welding brackets or modifications to radiators with epoxied cores. The epoxy cannot handle the high heat welding produces, so greater care must be taken to keep surrounding areas cool.

 

It all boils down to cost/benefit analysis. If you want an economical solution, the epoxy method (from a trusted manufacturer such a Griffin) is an acceptable solution. If you want a configuration that has shown to have more longevity, and can afford to spend a bit more, welded or soldered cores are the answer. Either way, the aluminum replacements are going to give you much better cooling, as well as saving some weight over the stock radiator.

 

JR

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