TopDawg_43 Posted February 19, 2004 Report Share Posted February 19, 2004 As it is right now, I have very little time with my car because it is in NC. Â So, I try to do a much to it as possible, when I go to see it. Â And now that I'm trying to complete my MPI conversion and get the car to where it is drivible, it's getting very difficult. Â Because, this is stuff that I've never seen before. Â So intern, the smart thing for me to do is have somebody who knows this stuff, come help a brotha out. Â Luckliy :, there is a Haltech rep that's in NC. Â We've been missing each other on hooking up, and tuning the car time and time again. Â And now that it looks like I am going hook up with him and get my car going, he tells me that he is about to move out of state. Â So interm, now I'm screwed. Â I don't want to be one of those that blows up there engine trying to tune it. Â I want to take my car to F.I.S. (Bill_TSG) to have it fine tuned, but it has to be tuned before it can fine tuned. Â Looks like I'm screwed, BIG TIME!! Unless somebody has a running E6K program that I can buy from them. Â Then I hope, I can form fit it to my car. Â I've tried e-mailing a program so many times and simply can not get it to work. Â I'm willing to pay for you to mail me a disk, and I could take it from there. Take it EZ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Questsi Posted February 19, 2004 Report Share Posted February 19, 2004 That's sucks man....Hope you get it running and tuned. I hope the SDS is a lot easier for my sake, or I'm screwed too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boosted_One Posted February 19, 2004 Report Share Posted February 19, 2004 That's sucks man....Hope you get it running and tuned. Â I hope the SDS is a lot easier for my sake, or I'm screwed too. Rest assured the SDS is as easy as it gets, unless they don't send you the programmer you'll have it running right away Doesn't Joel have a Haltech you could get a program from?? What about Ilber?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heefner Posted February 20, 2004 Report Share Posted February 20, 2004 what about Neil BMWtech? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TopDawg_43 Posted February 20, 2004 Author Report Share Posted February 20, 2004 what about Neil BMWtech? Neil is runnig a E6A. That program can not be converted to a E6K. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lizzord30 Posted February 20, 2004 Report Share Posted February 20, 2004 Well you may want to just make a new map. (note if you can run as low boost as posibl like dissconect the wg arm if you have a stock WG) Its really not that hard. (altho i havnt seen the Software you have). It probly gives a map simuler to the hawk that has inj Pulse (in ms) and load (in a %). Start ritch and lean it out so it doesnt pop or buck from ritchness. If you have a instant messanger and some time to look it over i could try to help you if you have time. Lizzord30 aim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TopDawg_43 Posted February 20, 2004 Author Report Share Posted February 20, 2004 Well you may want to just make a new map. (note if you can run as low boost as posibl like dissconect the wg arm if you have a stock WG) Its really not that hard. (altho i havnt seen the Software you have). It probly gives a map simuler to the hawk that has inj Pulse (in ms) and load (in a %). Start ritch and lean it out so it doesnt pop or buck from ritchness. If you have a instant messanger and some time to look it over i could try to help you if you have time. Lizzord30 aim Thanks Lizzord30, but I don't have internet access at my mom's house, where my car is. However you did just simply me with some information that I needed. Right now, my is popping and bucking from richness. I've been told my air fuel ratio is probably around 9.5-10:1. Thanks again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boosted_One Posted February 20, 2004 Report Share Posted February 20, 2004 like lizz said...can you just set a real basic basleine program, lean it out a bit and run a conservative timing table?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
artinist Posted February 20, 2004 Report Share Posted February 20, 2004 ya its not that hard to get running. to get the initial run turn off the input from most sensors. only two needed to run are MAP, TPS and coolent temp if you cant set a static number you should also be able to look at the E6A programing and just transfer the numbers over manually. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Enertia Posted February 21, 2004 Report Share Posted February 21, 2004 I didn't know you already have MPI, is it a magna? Â What are you using for trigger? Â Anyway, my E6K project seems lagging compared to your project. Â Yesterday, I am really close to getting the ignition timing done. Â I completely removed the vac (bladder) and weights off the distributor but it still need some tweaking. Â The timing is still about 15deg retard, but I am getting really excited to get this close. Are you completely done with the ignition setup? Any problems with rotor phasing? Â This rotor phasing is my main concern with this old distributor setup and I am really temped to spend another $200 to get an S3 hall sensor and 2 coil tower (waist spark). Dude, I hope you are not giving up coz I am gearing up to have the same MPI setup. Â I'm thinking that one of the guys using SDS must have a FUEL map that you/we can use. Â Is the MPI installed or do you still have the original intake manifold? What size turbo are you using? Â Any special cams? Did you have the engine rebored to a larger size? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yellow_quest Posted February 21, 2004 Report Share Posted February 21, 2004 IMHO, if your already going with a stand alone EMS, then you "should" junk the "80's" dist, and go to a Coil pack/CAS set-up...Honestly, i dont think it gets any cleaner then Digital myself. Yellow_quest Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Enertia Posted February 22, 2004 Report Share Posted February 22, 2004 I agree, but I still do not have a crank sensor, and I do not have much cash these days. Â Where do I get the cheapest crank sensor? Â Thanks for the input! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boosted_One Posted February 22, 2004 Report Share Posted February 22, 2004 IMHO, if your already going with a stand alone EMS, then you "should" junk the "80's" dist, and go to a Coil pack/CAS set-up...Honestly, i dont think it gets any cleaner then Digital myself. Yellow_quest Yes and no... my SDS 4E uses the distributor and uses all digital controlled timing. It will virtually walk step for step with an MSD6A box as a DIS for the levels most of us will ever attain. All my distributor does is spin the spark, no timing control. Phase and go... Is DIS better? Ya it's got a step...but not a bearing factor... -------------------------------- In answer to phasing the distributor...it is as easy as filling your gas tank... Take an old cap, put a hole so you can see the rotor at #1 TDC. At TDC make sure your rotor is sitting right under a a BIT before the #1 terminal. LOCK rotor, LOCK the distributor and your done! Cross firing is not a huge issue on 4cyl as there is a lot of space available between the terminals... plus your not exactly "timing" the motor so to speak by phasing, your making sure the spark is firing close to the correct terminals... So phasing is a really easy, don't worry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Enertia Posted February 23, 2004 Report Share Posted February 23, 2004 This afternoon, I was able to start the engine, but it is still shaky. Â I think the timing is still off but it is definitely a starting point. My setup is also using the distributor as trigger (reluctor) and to distribute the spark. Hmm.. it still sounds like a distributor, but without the vac and weights thanks to digital control. I am using Mallory HYFIRE VI and it works for a cheap price. Thanks for the advise. Â I didn't know exactly how to position the rotor so I set it on center. Â I'll change it next time. [q] At TDC make sure your rotor is sitting right under a a BIT before the #1 terminal. LOCK rotor, LOCK the distributor and your done! [/q] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TopDawg_43 Posted February 23, 2004 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2004 I didn't know you already have MPI, is it a magna? Â What are you using for trigger? Â Anyway, my E6K project seems lagging compared to your project. Â Yesterday, I am really close to getting the ignition timing done. Â I completely removed the vac (bladder) and weights off the distributor but it still need some tweaking. Â The timing is still about 15deg retard, but I am getting really excited to get this close. Are you completely done with the ignition setup? Any problems with rotor phasing? Â This rotor phasing is my main concern with this old distributor setup and I am really temped to spend another $200 to get an S3 hall sensor and 2 coil tower (waist spark). I'm not using a Magna intake. I'm using a stock intake modded to a MPI intake. My car is running, kinda. I have installed everything. I had no problems with rotor phasing. I just had to do some guess and checking, with a timing light to see what it was set at. I did the same as you, as far as the dist. is concerned. As of right now, I have no issues with it. The is another member who I know did the same thing, and he told me his car runs fine. He posted like 330 hp on the dyno a couple of months ago. Dude, I hope you are not giving up coz I am gearing up to have the same MPI setup. Â I'm thinking that one of the guys using SDS must have a FUEL map that you/we can use. Â Is the MPI installed or do you still have the original intake manifold? What size turbo are you using? Â Any special cams? Did you have the engine rebored to a larger size? NOT A CHANCE that I'm giving up . I will just have to figure this out for myself. I was going to pay some body to do this, but that's not going to work this time. I using a 20g-06, with a 284 cam. And engine is bored .040 over with forged pistons. Take it EZ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Enertia Posted February 26, 2004 Report Share Posted February 26, 2004 Take an old cap, put a hole so you can see the rotor at #1 TDC. At TDC make sure your rotor is sitting right under a a BIT before the #1 terminal. LOCK rotor, LOCK the distributor and your done! Okay so I had time to play with this adjustment this afternoon. I think the setting should be a BIT AFTER #1 terminal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joel Posted February 26, 2004 Report Share Posted February 26, 2004 You are welcome to setup a time when your near the car and call me. I will tell you the settings that should get you going over the phone. I can get the car likely pretty drivable like that. You should still have my phone number. Joel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boosted_One Posted February 26, 2004 Report Share Posted February 26, 2004 Okay so I had time to play with this adjustment this afternoon. Â I think the setting should be a BIT AFTER #1 terminal. http://www.sdsefi.com/EM4MANE.htm Distributor Alignment of Rotor With Cap Terminal. Very important Set the crankshaft pulley to about 20 degrees BTDC. Mark the distributor housing at the #1 terminal location. Remove the distributor cap. Turn the distributor housing until the #1 terminal is across from the rotor. Tighten the distributor bolt. Install the distributor cap. For engines with distributors with centrifugal advance: If the engine has any running problems, it may be necessary to permanently fix the centrifugal advance on older distributors, so that the rotor position does not move. This procedure is usually not as important on most 4 cylinder engines where the rotor width and wide terminal spacing make this less critical, however, on 6 cylinders with small diameter caps and all 8 cylinder engines it may be necessary. The centrifugal advance will not affect the ignition timing in any way. It will shift the rotor position slightly. We don't want the ignition system to deliver a spark when the rotor is away from the terminal on the cap, or worse, while the rotor is pointing to the wrong cylinder. If the distributor has a vacuum diaphragm it can be left unconnected to vacuum. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boosted_One Posted February 26, 2004 Report Share Posted February 26, 2004 You are welcome to setup a time when your near the car and call me. I will tell you the settings that should get you going over the phone. I can get the car likely pretty drivable like that. You should still have my phone number. Joel 8) I thought Joel could help the cause.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Enertia Posted February 26, 2004 Report Share Posted February 26, 2004 Thanks for the input guys. I think we already beat this horse to submission. Worst case, I'll call Joel. Going back to the MPI setup, is it possible to use the distributor as trigger for the fuel system? Don't you need a home trigger to let the computer know which cylinder to release fuel into? i.e. sequential. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TopDawg_43 Posted February 26, 2004 Author Report Share Posted February 26, 2004 You are welcome to setup a time when your near the car and call me. I will tell you the settings that should get you going over the phone. I can get the car likely pretty drivable like that. You should still have my phone number. Joel I believe I do still have your number. I'll be sure to give you a call. Thanks again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joel Posted February 27, 2004 Report Share Posted February 27, 2004 You have to have a home trigger on a cam angle sensor for sequential injection. Joel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastquestMA Posted February 28, 2004 Report Share Posted February 28, 2004 :-/Since we are on the subject of distributors, I just got a hold of a magna optical dist. from australia and will be trying to run it with a haltech e6x. It has 4 wires, does anyone know the functions of each wire and how to wire it up? got no instructions dont want to smoke it or the haltach! thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TopDawg_43 Posted March 1, 2004 Author Report Share Posted March 1, 2004 :-/Since we are on the subject of distributors, I just got a hold of a magna optical dist. from australia and will be trying to run it with a haltech e6x. It has 4 wires, does anyone know the functions of each wire and how to wire it up? got no instructions dont want to smoke it or the haltach! thanks! Contact Chipplee, he might know how to wire it up. He has one on his car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastquestMA Posted March 1, 2004 Report Share Posted March 1, 2004 ;)Thanks Dawg will do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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