fastquestMA

:)Thanks guys! Your too kind

;)Basically the most needed parts when installing the Magna MPI, assuming it's been modded, is 1, a ford throttlebody either 4.6 or 5.0 (depends what flange they used?) 2, a new or good set of matched injectors, 3, a fuel managment system to control the fuel delivery, which will come with a tps and a couple of sensors needed, 4, then you need to have your FMIC pipes cut off and 2 larger flanges tig welded on the end tanks, 5 new IC piping with silicone couplers, *DM sells the kit or Otis @ Midwestturbo, then you can lose your mas air and air box so you'll prob need a hard pipe there with a cone filter also, 6 relocate battery to rear or put a real short one inplace, then a high volume fuel pump on a cleaned system. Oh, if your gonna run high boost and CFM, a 3bar map sensor, after all that and tuned properly, you may need a package of huggies! Can be costly! but worth it! I'm almost there, on hold due to funds, but working hard on it! Good Luck!

;)I ended up installing a large spicket on the accordian boot and going to there with the oil seperator canister line that used to go to the stock air box. I was just worried that if anything came out of that line it would chew up the compreesor wheel, but after looking at my 2 freinds stock 88's they also go to the accordian air intake tube with the seperator can line. All is well and working the way it should be! Very happy with set-up for now ;D

;)Agree, 1:1 ratio works just fine Boosted_one I rethought my reasoning of why I can't run the stock bosch frp, Not, due to any issues with the new aftermarket ECU but other upgrades I am doing! Check my previous post on this thread, I did some thinking this morning after I was fully awake and remembered the true reason why i'm going with what I chose and I revised the post.

;)You would not even beleive the performance I got after adding the 19C! Thank god for fuel cut defencers for the 86! This car is an animal! I can stay on the a** of a new Z06 no problem! Then he walks away at top end, but from 30mph to 120 I'm like glue! I really need to run the car now! before I add the rest of my goodies! and see what it can do at the 1/4 mile? Then see what it will do after, will most likely need slicks, then I can break the drivetrain parts! lol! I mostly install all the stuff we sell, the other guy I work with can tune better than me, He has a freind with a tuning shop with a dyno, no sales, we send him all the cars when i'm done to be tuned, the haltechs are trickey and when your running Nitrous, High boost, and a beefy ignition system, you really have to know what your doing! I'll leave that to the pro's! I know enough to get the car to run but there are mutiple maps on the haltech for all the upgrades that need to be done on a dyno!

:)Basically whatisit  said is correct also, but let me chime in and say (revised) that you do need to run a fpr, adjustable, when doing multiple fuel delivery mods, I would never run without an adjustable due to baseline fuel pressure! Even though I will be running HD large injectors, they are not mini hoover dams, lol, You need to be able to keep a baseline of 35 -70 psi with an aftermarket high pressure, high volume fuel pump or you run the risk of blowing something out at the MPI or TB, and also subjecting the injectors to very high F.pressure at idle. And maybe an engine fire! Like the parts car I bought due to TB fire, I think it was caused by his increased pressure from the huge holley fuel pump that was out back on the frame rail and bad lines or injector seals at the TB. Regardless, I got sooo many awsome parts from this 87, It just had the whole motor redone with all the best before the fire! Not only for the reason I mentioned, but I am going with the Aeromotive Adj. RRFPR BC it has 4 output ports and I will be using every port! I will be upgrading my main fuel line to at least 1/2 to 5/8 stainless steel braided (cut and crimped to lentgh) with AN fittings on either end and will run it with the Nitrous line, from the rear to the fpr, I have a use for the 4 extra ports on the new adj.rrfpr, 1 for inj. rail, 2 for eletronic sending unit for my fuel pressure gauge, 3 for the ss braided fuel line for the NOS fuel selenoid, and 4th for a mechanical gauge to set baseline when alone under hood. And my reasoning on RR is that it won't hurt to have a boost reference also, even though I know I can control delivery with my E6X haltech.

:)I am doing the same upgrade on my TSi, It is an expensive venture! The Magna intake modded, Good fuel injectors, ( i'm goin with Delphi 75 lb hr) IC mods IC piping mods, new independant adj rrfpr, and a fuel management system to control it all! Oh, and a new or used ford trottle body, I went with BBK 75MM big boy!Check out both pages on my webpage link below http://www.racetronix.com/Racetronix-Delph...r_Sale-75s.html

;)My 3/86 TSi will not run without the MAS! This is what I did! Fuel cut defencer, Modified 1st gen airbox with HKS half dome air filter on end and removed the honey comb from the mas air, The air intake is tremendous! That box resinates like you wouldn't beleive, it growls! a definate performance upgrade in my book! Spools much quicker also! Just make sure if you go with HKS, change the filter every 7K or sooner! Good luck!

:)Would by any chance, anyone know the original paint code for the Conquest Fiji Blue? Thanks, Mike M.

;)Hey Latinspankin, What shop do you work at in tampa if at all? I am from that area and worked at some of the shops in the area. I'm now in Massachusetts but wish I was back in Tampa! Mike M.

;)JUSTPAUSE you are right about who cares about the 1/4? I have removed all my a/c components and then some! (all emmisions) Trying to even out the weight difference between the front and rear for handling, and by removing all the a/c, my car runs cooler!

;)Rule of thumb, in the world of drag racing, for every 100 lbs. you remove you only gain one tenth of a second. Food for thought.

;)Right On DJ, I totally agree! I myself have Eibachs and I am very happy with them! The car doesn't bottom and handles great! I do have Suspension Techniques sway bars, took some work and modifying to install the greasable bushings and holders but was worth it! Handling got better 2 fold! Plan on going with adj. coil overs and camber plates for the front, just trying to save up some cash! My house account where I work is through the roof! I will modify my rear strut towers to adjust rear camber, it's not that hard at all! Then i'll get more tire surface to the ground.

Read the post above yours on cut springs. I have eibachs, a little stiff but can corner unreal and I don't bottom out. Sometimes you have to make a sacrifice if you want to go fast! I just avoid all pot holes, you learn to do that with any lowering perf. spring!

Sorry if I was a little harsh, its just that theres a shop called motion hydraulics which is my compitition. They lower cars and install hydraulics. (Cheap) And we lose customers to them all the time because their idea of lowering a car is taking a torch to the spring and cutting off a couple of inches. They dont even remove the part they cut off it just slides into the spring where its wider! then I see their customers riding around the city with their logo on the windows and their heads are just about hitting the headliner over every little bump! it looks rediculous! I sell lowering kits including new progressive rate springs and struts or coil overs which all work better to enhance the handling of the car without compressing the discs in your neck!

;)If you have suspension techniques like I do the rear bar is 13/16's and to use the sus. tec. greasable bushings requires some mods to the bushing brackets, but I got them to work, with cutting grinding and then welding them to the chassis, the stock bracket and bushings can not fit around the bar and you can barely get the stock bolts on, mine came loose and sounded like crap on every bump till I put the sus. tec. bushings in, as far as being welded i figure its a urathane busing you can grease, so it prob. will outlast me!

Bouncie Bouncie Bottom Bottom, Looks and handles stupid!

;)I have that autometer 230.00 sport comp gauge for fuel pressure. I wouldn't want to run fuel into my car so I opted to with that style Fuel pres. gauge, it comes with a electronic self calibrating sending unit, that I tapped into the top banjo bolt of the firewall fuel filter. This gauge is very accurate and was worth the money! I don't think I would want to run hot oil into my car either! My next two gauges I buy will be an eletronic oil pressure gauge and a eletronic EGT gauge, I'm trying to find the room to mount them in the gauge cluster, where the stock tach is, will post pics on my homepage below when done. ;D

:-/How are you holding up the tension of the chain from trying to pull the cam gear down into its little dish on the head? Otis at Midwest turbo gave me a good tip of changing the cam without losing the timing, he said he puts a socket under the cam gear to prop it up while removing the cam without taking off the timing cover. If anyone has any better ideas I would appreciate them, for I am about to install my new schnieder 274 cam, but i'm scared of chain coming off the gear and messing it all up! Thanks!

:oThe guys at top end performance said that my car would run without the mas air plugged in. They were dead wrong, I own a 3/86 conquest tsi widebody and I tried what they said, and the car would run if I unplugged it while it was running, but if I unplugged it before I started it, it would not start! I guess it won't matter soon, I have a Haltech E6X sitting in my living room floor stacked on top of a modified Magna MPI in the box along with a Magna hall effect distributor with no advance, just a trigger, I am just trying to save up to get new injectors for the Magna (not cheap)! and a external adjustable rising rate regulator of quality. But I do wish I could run my car now without that stupid 6 wire mas air sensor! then I could put a nice intake and K&N cone style filter, and lose that huge ugly airbox!

That little canister that was bolted on to your stock air filter canister is needed when running a Krank Vent system, I wasn't thinking early this morning when I asked that question, cause I figured out that I would use a vacuum t splitter and go close to the throttle body tapped into the pcv valve line, that way oil contaminents would not enter my new turbo but instead go into the base of the TB. and be burned. You should really consider a Krank Vent system for any higher than stock boost applications, the stock pcv valve is not strong enough to hold boost from entering into the motor and into the crank case and it will cause bad seals, valve cover gaskets, and any other gasket used to seal the motor. It also seats the rings against the cyl. walls better. there is a thread on this some where, I just cant remember where? But beleive me the system works!!!! When I installed my new 19c turbo and cranked up the boost I blew my front main seal, valve cover gasket, and popped out the cam plug half moon gasket, just finished resealing the whole motor today, running great now! Check out Krank Vent.com

Where did you run the ventilation seperater canister hose to, if not the center vacuum port of the intake? I run a crank vent kit and would like to know where to go with the sep. can. line before I purchase this set-up? Thanks

I was one whom ordered my magna mpi from 4gmitsubishi I paid 470. some odd it took exactly 1 month and 1 day to receive it. Chad went far beond the mods by 4g by installing all the fittings in the right places! I will have to drill and tap and find all the fittings myself. Chads work looks awsome! I wish you had offered this deal when I bought my mpi! Keep up the great work! I do have a question for the Guru, Is there a rising rate regulator that will bolt on the fuel rail like the magna reg? Thanks

;)Thanks Dawg will do.

:-/Since we are on the subject of distributors, I just got a hold of a magna optical dist. from australia and will be trying to run it with a haltech e6x. It has 4 wires, does anyone know the functions of each wire and how to wire it up? got no instructions dont want to smoke it or the haltach! thanks!