Yellow_quest

IMHO, if your already going with a stand alone EMS, then you "should" junk the "80's" dist, and go to a Coil pack/CAS set-up...Honestly, i dont think it gets any cleaner then Digital myself. Yellow_quest

304 stainless has a history of cracking....it'll work but it's not the best suited for the 1600ish F temps that our exhaust manifolds see on a hard drive. Might look into weld'els as they seem to be the standard in the race world.... Yellow_quest

The seats sound aftermarket, I've never seen the 87 style in 2 tone unless they were cloth...the Steering wheel adjuster has been "fix'd" someone bent the rod either knowingly or not knowingly....it's prolly best that it dont move as this was the #1 most idiotic design in this car....aside from the ABS system.... Take some pics of them seats and post'em or E-mail'em to me and i will post'em for ya. Yellow_quest

well moved or not this dude has a question.... Every turbo ever put on a Starion was a 12A mitsu turbo 320cfm@15psi, the Flatbodies and widebodies both had different turbo clockings (non Inter cooler to intercooler). Same guts tho....same flow... the basic street upgrade offered was a 14G, the standard is a 16G or 17C both will require some mods to your fuel supply and some smarting up on the IC pipe'n. http://www.forcedperformance.com http://www.micturbo.com Either place will get you what you need, (rebuild stock core). Good luck Yellow_quest

Front Fenders 1 Piece bumper/Airdam with adjustable splitter. The hoods we have in production now are Great, we have choices between 83 style and a cowel hood. We really NEED front fenders, these cars are nose pigs, ask anyone that has AutoX'd one.... just my personal order.... Yellow_quest

I just got off the phone with dennys Driveshaft....an they only do domestic cars (Barf). might be an option for the V8 swap guys but not for those of us looking for a heavier stock set-up. Yellow_quest

you'll love it.....at 11 lbs installed it's alot lighter then the 34lb stocker (240MM) Get it balanced 1st....make sure it's at a zero balance b-4 you put it on....have the PP with it also so the both of them are balanced together. it will rev like a honda, make sure your valve train is in tip top shape. Yellow_quest

heres a link to a list of the toyota RWD trannies from 72 to present. http://www.club4ag.com/faq%20and%20tech_pa...WDgearboxes.htm This is a Aussie/NZ link so the info is centered around their supplies, but the trannies are the same. NOTE: the W58 looks good to 300ish hp/tq the R154 says "Mega" that means 900+ in my book. tho the V160 looks like it would be a good autoX tranny, look at that deep 1st gear....you can almost feel the neck snap... Yellow_quest

#19 is me, thats the wifes pay pal account =-) she's so good to me. Thanks again for the GP. Yellow_quest

Cant pass this up either, put me down for Precision Stainless Steel Short Throw Shifters with 17o Bend GP PRICE $99 Polyurethane Suspension Bushing Kit (softer compound, 85 Durometer) GP PRICE $179 Polyurethane Motor Mounts (softer compound, 85 Durometer) GP PRICE $99 Polyurethane Manual Trans Mounts (softer compound, 85 Durometer) GP PRICE $59 Polyurethane Rear End Mounts (softer compound, 85 Durometer) GP PRICE $99 Total: 535.00 + s&h Paypal'n as soon as this posts. Yellow_quest

You dont get boost creep with External Wastegates that dump....unless you route them back into the exhaust flow....you'll cause turbulance that will actually push your Exhaust back pressure up.....thats bad, just do like shelby told me and put a Lawnmower muffler on the dump tube.... ;D ;D ;D I say dump it clean and screw the reroute. Yellow_quest

That works out perfect Big O, thanks a ton again for this and your other GP's. Yellow_quest

Just checking in, whats the shipping date on these. thanks again for the GP Big O, your the man! Yellow_quest

How much dose that V8 weigh? I'd say you could get away with 450# fronts and 350-400# rears....but it'll be stiff'r then stock for sure. Yellow_quest

Count me in, Paypal sent as of 1:13pmCST sunday Oct 13 2003. thanks Oscar. Yellow_quest

hehe, it'll already rev, with the proper valve train, matched turbo, MPI and lots of weight savings on the rotating mass and you too can have an 8500 rpm redline 4g54bt. you dont need to destroke it, part of the fun is the Tq #'s an oversquare motor produces, the only drawback is you have to pay attention to your rotating mass weight, and make sure everything is balanced by a pro. Yellow_quest

thats the charcole can, take the line that vents off the Gas tank and put a filter on it....trace the vac lines off the chearcole can and cap them off at the source. remove it and you have a perfect spot for a cold air intake system. Yellow_quest

Nissan uses ATF in their 5 speeds....so do all the newer 5 speed fords..... ATF works great in our trannies if you add a bottle of the posi friction modifyer form chrysler....it stinks like pooooooo but it works.... more positive shifting when cold, stays cooler for sure, i can touch the tranny body after a 60+ mile road blast. here is the only drawback.....our 5 speeds are noisy...they arent the softest sounding brute on the block, the ATF wont dampen the noise as much as GL5 will, but it will make the darn thing CRISP as can be. Yellow_quest

you sure can! step one: pull yoru quest into the driveway and get ready to address the problem... step two: open the hood and pull the radiator cap off the quest.... step three: put quest in "N" and push out of the way. step four: pull a 1972 caddy el doe in and put starion radiator cap on it. FINISHED! now your sheezy rides like a dream.... the point: you want a dreamy ride, buy a buick or caddy....it's a sports car jeeeezzzz. Yellow_quest

You dont even need to do the wiring....check this out...this IS the 1g MAS plug, and what you need to do to it to make it a DIRECT FIT to your starion plug http://www.cfecorp.net/aj/1gmas/DSC00003.JPG http://www.cfecorp.net/aj/1gmas/DSC00002.JPG Simply cut the 1g plug between the 6 pins and the 1 lone pin, bend the 1 lone pin down and sand the outside of the now 3 sided plug so your STOCK mas plug will fit snugly over it. Happy cutting. Yellow_quest

500.00 bucks for the Converter.... thats WAY more then the other kit form ramchargers. Yellow_quest

the 86 widebody IS the 2nd Gen starion.... how could you forget our narrow body friends? Yellow_quest

Viper: it's an after market item in Japan....Shin tells me (in broken but pretty good english!) that they have a market for Starions over there...How big? how many products? I dunno....yet. Yellow_quest

I've got the same problem, looking at it with the car up on jacks or a lift, it's hard to tell there is anything wrong. I have found a few factors that MIGHT come into play, i'll share with ya TD, and when you fix this prob, post it here with pics if ya can, so we can add this to the archive of "s|-|it that WILL happen to you" (Checking filter logic...feel free to edit it out...I'm play'n around here.) Check the rear Strut mount, Top side (PITA to get to but you can)....and also check the underside. The Drivers rear A arm, bushing (someone fix'd their prob with this bushing, i recall reading that about a month ago). The Adjuster bolt (you will see on the rear arm a bolt with some markings, this is to set rear camber and sometimes they rust out so bad they just disenegrate. this will cause a sag. check your springs for signs of wear. If you find ANY of the above not up to spec, that may be causing your sag. I've pretty much determined that my Rear adjuster bolt is F.U.B.A.R. and my front A arm bushing is going south quickly (causing more sag). my 2.6L worth, I'm just now starting to learn suspention, so gimmie a few months. Yellow_quest

hey! thats my friend shin1ro's car....man it looks tight from the rear. that wing is functional BTW. that car sees track time fo sheezy. Yellow_quest