Squrlsquash Posted July 28, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 28, 2015 It's pretty clear that the computers and electronics of these cars do not fair well with endurance racing. I'm okay with slow, a 100hp car that doesn't break down is faster than a 200hp car in the pits. It's about consistency and completing laps - the only way i know to do that is with simplicity, and a slowpoke carb setup fits the bill. Clutch fan shroud is a good idea, will piggy-back it with electric fans as well. Anyone have a clutch fan and shroud setup laying around?also looking for a spare manual transThanks-Aaron Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GINASQ Posted July 29, 2015 Report Share Posted July 29, 2015 How about one if those salvage 240's or bmw's that are always in cl. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NikoFab Posted July 29, 2015 Report Share Posted July 29, 2015 Just spoke to my wife about doing this and she's all about it. Not enough time before MSR this year, but we're going to do it next year. Shopping for cars now. Need two more drivers...anybody in the Texas area interested? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ucw458 Posted July 29, 2015 Report Share Posted July 29, 2015 I'm interested. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shelby Posted July 29, 2015 Report Share Posted July 29, 2015 it'd take a very naive person to think they could take a untuned , unmaintained car and run any sort of race these 24 hr races with a buy limet on winning car are ran by guys with money in pocket to buy their own car we had the same problem yrs back in hobby stock round track raceing that $500 is a biding point to start not set in stone Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GINASQ Posted July 30, 2015 Report Share Posted July 30, 2015 Yeah 2015 challenge is a bit more interesting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
383chevelle Posted July 30, 2015 Report Share Posted July 30, 2015 (edited) Niko, I am in, I ahve been trying to get a team together for several years now. I had a 1979 BMW 320i for about 5 yeras that was going to be my lemons car untill the city of lubbock taged it and I had to sell it. I will be moving to Richmond/Rosenburg in a few months. I think I even have a car we can use that is fully prepped. It has competed before but had a small crash and bent the tierod on the drivers side and maybe a control arm. The guy wont sell it for some reason but wants someone to race it. He has told me several times that I can use it. Would that be something you might be interested in. Also I know at least one other person that will extremely interested. He was one of the guys that was goiong to build the BMW with me. Edited July 30, 2015 by 383chevelle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squrlsquash Posted July 31, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 31, 2015 Ha shelby, pretty sure a degree of naivety is necessary to do much of anything with a starquest Really doing this to get into wheel-to-wheel racing cheaply and just for fun.I know losing the turbo makes most on this forum cringe, but i don't want to chase electrical gremlins and be overheated in the pits the whole time. -I figure a wideband o2 is the best way to tune the carb?-Replace EFI fuel pump with a low pressure carb one? or use montero mechanical fuel pump? -Will swap to a clutch fan and shroud with electric fans in front (hard wired to switches)-Keep thermostat? or ditch for better cooling? would it be worth the long warm-up? Thoughts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ucw458 Posted July 31, 2015 Report Share Posted July 31, 2015 If you take out the thermostat it WILL overheat. Carbs aren't the easiest thing to tune. You really need to re-think removing the turbo. I don't think you realize just how slow it will be. It wont be slow and reliable. It will be a dog on the track getting passed by almost everyone. That's not fun. A friend of mine put a carb on a SQ without a turbo and got about 80 hp on the dyno. A bone stock 1.9 liter 88 hp ford escort will be faster than a SQ with a carb. And the escort is a slow car but is 500 lbs lighter. Don't ditch the stock system for perceived "reliability". Fix it properly. Just cleaning all electrical connections will do wonders for reliability. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbo Cary Posted July 31, 2015 Report Share Posted July 31, 2015 Ucw is right. Keep the turbo and run stock boost levels. Having all your grounds and connections clean will make a big difference in the way the car runs. Bad injector connectors will make it skip and or sputter, same with cooling fans, if the connectors are corroded and it has high resistance the fans wont spin as fast which will cause over heating. Remember that the race is about longevity as well as being faster than people. Find good solid lines and run consistant times. The ones who go balls to the wall are the ones who will be knocked out first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
383chevelle Posted August 1, 2015 Report Share Posted August 1, 2015 A buddy of mine bought a SQ that had the turbo capped off and a single barrel carb on it. When they say it will be a dog they are being generous. I drove my SQ there then test drove the car and it was SLOW and still over heated. Honestly it really was terrible, you have to remeber that these motors are around 7-7.52:1 compression from the factory. That combined with no turbo makes zero power. There is no reason that a car that has some elboy grease in it should be able to run the race. When we were getting our budget put together for the BMW we figured we would have around 3000 in the car by the time it is ready to race. You have to remember the any saftey equipment is not included in the 500 dollar budget. This means cage( there is a specification for this and it is not a cheap cage), brakes, seat, safety harness, etc. That 500 dollar budget is more of a suggestion then a rule from what I have seen. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shelby Posted August 1, 2015 Report Share Posted August 1, 2015 Ha shelby, pretty sure a degree of naivety is necessary to do much of anything with a starquest Really doing this to get into wheel-to-wheel racing cheaply and just for fun.I know losing the turbo makes most on this forum cringe, but i don't want to chase electrical gremlins and be overheated in the pits the whole time. -I figure a wideband o2 is the best way to tune the carb?-Replace EFI fuel pump with a low pressure carb one? or use montero mechanical fuel pump? -Will swap to a clutch fan and shroud with electric fans in front (hard wired to switches)-Keep thermostat? or ditch for better cooling? would it be worth the long warm-up? Thoughts? the oem carb that came on these engine were a nightmare and almost imposible to tune,, also they used the SAME ecu setup as the tbi so wheres the improvement,, only carb choice would be a webber and your talking $400 or more for one I've been rebuilding carbs for a long ,long time and those things are deff the hardest ones I have ever done ,main fuel jets work on a vibrating solenoid controlled by the ecu Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NikoFab Posted August 1, 2015 Report Share Posted August 1, 2015 Niko, I am in, I ahve been trying to get a team together for several years now. I had a 1979 BMW 320i for about 5 yeras that was going to be my lemons car untill the city of lubbock taged it and I had to sell it. I will be moving to Richmond/Rosenburg in a few months. I think I even have a car we can use that is fully prepped. It has competed before but had a small crash and bent the tierod on the drivers side and maybe a control arm. The guy wont sell it for some reason but wants someone to race it. He has told me several times that I can use it. Would that be something you might be interested in. Also I know at least one other person that will extremely interested. He was one of the guys that was goiong to build the BMW with me. Cool...would like to talk to you about it some more. I'm in Sugar Land, right next to Richmond/Rosenberg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squrlsquash Posted August 3, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 3, 2015 the carb i have is a knock off weber, no ecu or anything I'm going this route because its clear that people with more time and money have failed to make a turbo/injected starion finish more than a few laps.and because its what i've got in the garage I could swap to higher comp NA pistons- do they have the oil squirter rods like the starions? or would i need to swap pistons onto turbo rods Besides that, cooling is my main problem. Worth trying to flush and reuse a stocker radiator?or ive got some barely used volvo aluminum radiators, alot smaller, but could put them back to back and plumb in series manual trans should be okay with the abuse? just dont bang-shift for 24 hours straight? diff/tt okay with new fluid? tt need to come apart for re-grease? Thanks-Aaron Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GINASQ Posted August 4, 2015 Report Share Posted August 4, 2015 If rather run my diesel 240d than a low compression carbed 2.6 without its turbo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shelby Posted August 5, 2015 Report Share Posted August 5, 2015 I've been on here for a good while and I'd say 90% of all the break downs I have seen have been due to poor maintenance not parts actually breaking down,, you can't really fault an alternator or water pump or heater hose for failing after 150k miles running any car 10-40k over time to replace parts and expect it to not break down on you , well is foolish , likehaving 150k on an oem timing chain and trash talk the engine cause it blows up , not the engines fault , it's the drives fault Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squrlsquash Posted August 26, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 26, 2015 Working up a manual actuator for the choke, any thoughts? http://i1297.photobucket.com/albums/ag24/Squrlsquash/CB5BC120-272E-4C50-BAEF-701C5984F1A6_zpsqaxsnj3p.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
importwarrior Posted August 26, 2015 Report Share Posted August 26, 2015 i would look in to a used megasquirt turbo setup. MS1 V3,0 with 4 Bar map is 275 just build it yourself. MS1 V3.0 is 219. MS1 V2.2 is 169 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clow340 Posted August 26, 2015 Report Share Posted August 26, 2015 If your going na i would suggest lighten everything. Aluminum flywheel, 225 clutch, gut car ect. If your opening up the block then lighten the crank, port th poo out of the head and get compression up to 9 to 1 or better a nice header even. I dont see an advantage but if thats what your plan is then might as well make the engine turn more than 6k.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clow340 Posted August 26, 2015 Report Share Posted August 26, 2015 Take the choke plates out, i doubt youll be running in temps under 50 outside. If it wont start and idle with out them its tuned wrong. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ucw458 Posted August 27, 2015 Report Share Posted August 27, 2015 Take the choke plates out, i doubt youll be running in temps under 50 outside. If it wont start and idle with out them its tuned wrong. Exactly. Chokes are for warming the engine up. There is no engine warming up on a track. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squrlsquash Posted September 4, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 4, 2015 Removing choke all together since warm-ups in socal (especially at daytime track events) will always be warm enough. I'd like to lighten the engine, port, and change pistons- but i don't think its possible with the budgetFor the first go-around i'm planning to use a stock motor without opening it up. If the car works out and survives the race,future would probably involve higher compression pistons from an NA g54b and a lightweight flywheel. Checking craigslist for $500 cars that are as complete as possible (manual, late, wide-body) in SoCalIdeas for the project and craigslist alerts welcome Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tankbob Posted September 4, 2015 Report Share Posted September 4, 2015 I say go for it if it can be reliable enough to last the race then it wont matter if its slow you can just try and maintain speed. Im about a hour from you Id join the race team Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shelby Posted September 4, 2015 Report Share Posted September 4, 2015 if you find a car or truck , be sure to change valve springs,, few engines will rev to 6k + with oem springs esp a $500 vehicle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squrlsquash Posted September 5, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 5, 2015 My plan for the first event would just be to change up at about 5kI doubt any power is to be had above that anyways Have springs i can check tension on and swap out if valve float issues become apparent Will get in touch, Tankbob Thanks for all the comments,Think i'll be tracking down a clutch fan and shroud setup off a montero at the junkyards next Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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