questtuner82 Posted July 8, 2015 Report Share Posted July 8, 2015 Anybody know how hard or what would be needed to do this? What can i use to control spark/ignition? And what size carb? I have a 2 barrel 500cfm holley that was used for a supercharger. So im good there. Also can modify a intake to work. What would i use to control ignition? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ucw458 Posted July 8, 2015 Report Share Posted July 8, 2015 Spark can be controlled by the stock system. If you go past 15 psi of boost you can use a MSD BTM (boost timing master). It's a MSD ignition box that can retard timing under boost.. You want a carb sized around what your turbo can put out. For example, a 12a can flow around 380 cfm and a 16g can flow around 500 cfm. You don't need an intercooler. The evaporating fuel in the intake will make the charge literally ice cold. Boosted carb setups have been known to form ice on the outside of the manifold from the low intake charge temps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
questtuner82 Posted July 8, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2015 So theres nothing needed to make it run with all the stock stuff for ignition? Even if i take the computer out itll run with stock ign setup and a carb? I need to know exactly what i need and need to do in order to make it carbed. Because my car keeps frying computers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speedyquest Posted July 8, 2015 Report Share Posted July 8, 2015 It sounds like your putting a band-aid on your car. Figure out why your "frying" your ecu. Don't ignore that issue and try and move along another path that will just cost you money. Typically tossing money at a problem isn't the answer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
questtuner82 Posted July 8, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2015 If i get rid of computer then ill be good. I can modify an intake very easily to accept a carb Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
questtuner82 Posted July 8, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2015 Everybody always gets off the subject here. My question was what is needed to control ignition after the computer is gone and out of the car to swap to carb Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speedyquest Posted July 8, 2015 Report Share Posted July 8, 2015 I get that you asked about what needs to happen to run a carbed turbo setup I was addressing a concern about switching. I'm not trying to be negative, I'm just trying to point out another viewpoint. All I'm trying to say is that Ive read your other post and you talked about water getting onto your ecu and damaging it. Well personally my thought would be to fix where the water is coming from not to delete the ecu. I guess we all go about doing things differently though. I wish you luck in whatever path you decide to go down man. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
questtuner82 Posted July 8, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2015 Speedy, the issue is that i cannot find where its getting wet from but also its not just wet its sticky with wetness and a purple color also. Which i have no clue what that would be. Ive checked everything on this car and theres zero leaks anywhere but this is the second ecu that is wet sticky with a purplish color crap on it. The computer was red hot last night when i reached over when the car started acting funny so its something to do with either the electrical or in the computer itself thats causing this problem....... Thats why i said its to the point of taking it out for good and going carb Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speedyquest Posted July 8, 2015 Report Share Posted July 8, 2015 (edited) It sounds like your right and its an electrical issue. I'm guessing the wet / sticky stuff that is purplish is rubber or silicone from inside the ecu case. But that is even more of an issue isn't though? Sure you can remove the ecu and carb it but the rest of the electrical could be compromised already or could be down the line. Reading your other post you mentioned something about your injectors not firing either. I only point this out because I understand how frustrating these cars can be sometimes but fixing them correctly is really the only way to ensure it will give you a care free experience later on. Regardless though I'll leave the subject be. Edited July 8, 2015 by speedyquest Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chromedome Posted July 8, 2015 Report Share Posted July 8, 2015 (edited) If you find a carb intake from a mighty max, you can use adapters to get the holley to fit, but it will restrict the airflow due to the size of the original mikuni carb. You would have to go from mikuni to weber adapter and then weber to holley adapter. I'm in the process of converting my '86 to carb and am using a 350 cfm Holley two barrel. I used a hole saw to open up the intake (mighty max) and the first adapter. The adapters can be found on ebay. Using the stock quest intake would require some major reworking with welding. You should be OK with the 500 cfm carb. Like ucw458 said, the stock timing stuff will get you by. Also, you will need a short carb hat, or with the two adapters and carb, the hood won't close. Edited July 8, 2015 by Chromedome Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chromedome Posted July 8, 2015 Report Share Posted July 8, 2015 (edited) / Edited July 8, 2015 by Chromedome Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markhansenconquest Posted July 9, 2015 Report Share Posted July 9, 2015 (edited) 87 ecu 50 bucks shipped ??or 2 for 75 ????? have u been working on any electrical ??or is this how u got the car ?? Edited July 9, 2015 by markhansenconquest Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
questtuner82 Posted July 10, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 10, 2015 The car right now is all stock. When i got the car the wiring was hacked to hell on it. I replaced the whole engine harness with one from an 87 parts car i bought along with computer. But the car keeps frying computers and they are wet and sticky when i take them out. No heat or a/c in the car and no leaks anywhere. Something is frying them and i just dont have the time to check everything. Im currently modding a starquest manifold to accept a holley 2 barrel carb that was used on a supercharged 6 cylinder. It is a 500cfm blow through carb. The modifying of the intake is going well. I cut the top of the manifold off and it is now wide open plenum there. I have a 2 barrel carb spacer that just about covers the opening perfect so itll get tig welded on and use some alum filler while tigging it. I just need to know exactly what to get to control ignition timing. Id like to be able to use the factory distributor also but should i get a msd box or something? This is all i need to know along with what control box to get and how to wire it in. Kinda has to be a one or two day project as it is my daily driver 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott87star Posted July 10, 2015 Report Share Posted July 10, 2015 You don't have to do anything to the stock ignition, just keep the knock box and distributor, it is self contained. The knock box reported rpm to the ECU through the negative side of the coil, the knock box controlled the coil based on the ignition pickup inside the distributor. Done. Now you will have to figure out how to trigger the fuel pump. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ucw458 Posted July 10, 2015 Report Share Posted July 10, 2015 The fuel pump part is simple. Can't use the FI pump on a carb. So either put an electric carb pump on triggered by the ignition switch. Or put a NA 2.6 mechanical pump on. The stock mechanical pump should be enough for a carb. OR you could have a friend spray water from a hose while you look inside for a leak. Whether you go carb or stay FI the leak will cause rust issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chromedome Posted July 10, 2015 Report Share Posted July 10, 2015 As far as fuel pumps go, you can use the stock pump with a Mallory 4309 regulator. I ran a turbocharged Mustang with a Walbro 255 pump with one for years. If you use a N/A mechanical pump, you will have to boost reference it by drilling and epoxying a nipple in the air bleed hole and running a vac. hose to the carb hat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
questtuner82 Posted July 11, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 11, 2015 Scott, have u ever repaired a factory ecu? If so how much do u charge? I have two that i could use repaired if i stay tbi Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott87star Posted July 11, 2015 Report Share Posted July 11, 2015 No, I don't waste time on prehistoric equipment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chromedome Posted July 11, 2015 Report Share Posted July 11, 2015 I've got an 87 computer you can have if you pay shipping. Be about 10 bucks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StarquestRescue Posted July 12, 2015 Report Share Posted July 12, 2015 The car right now is all stock. When i got the car the wiring was hacked to hell on it. I replaced the whole engine harness with one from an 87 parts car i bought along with computer. But the car keeps frying computers and they are wet and sticky when i take them out. No heat or a/c in the car and no leaks anywhere. Something is frying them and i just dont have the time to check everything. Im currently modding a starquest manifold to accept a holley 2 barrel carb that was used on a supercharged 6 cylinder. It is a 500cfm blow through carb. The modifying of the intake is going well. I cut the top of the manifold off and it is now wide open plenum there. I have a 2 barrel carb spacer that just about covers the opening perfect so itll get tig welded on and use some alum filler while tigging it. I just need to know exactly what to get to control ignition timing. Id like to be able to use the factory distributor also but should i get a msd box or something? This is all i need to know along with what control box to get and how to wire it in. Kinda has to be a one or two day project as it is my daily driverDoes this car still have the injector resisters in front of the air box? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
questtuner82 Posted July 12, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 12, 2015 Yes still has ballast resistor for injectors. Had them checked and were good Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mbruneaux Posted August 13, 2015 Report Share Posted August 13, 2015 I have carbs and an intake if interested http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=109607&st=120 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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