cristarion Posted October 27, 2014 Report Share Posted October 27, 2014 Hi everyone! My name is Cris and I'm new here. I just bought an 87 starion, the car did not start when I got it, I notice that it didn't have any spark or gas, I replaced the ignition control box for the spark, new plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor. for the gas problem I replaced the fuel pump because the old pump was turning on but not sucking any gas. Now the engine start but only if I take the fuel pressure regulator off, then turns off after 20 sec. otherwise it wont start (fuel pressure regulator is new) last thing I notice is that the fuel is only getting to the throttle body when I start the engine, soonest started fuel stops pumping I tried to give direct current to the fuel pump check wire and it still does the same. please if anyone can help me will be awesome and well appreciated Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
importwarrior Posted October 27, 2014 Report Share Posted October 27, 2014 if you figure this one out please be sure to post the fix.a few others are having this issue. no one seems to be able to resolve this.or has a definite answer as to what is causing it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hunter85 Posted October 27, 2014 Report Share Posted October 27, 2014 Silly question but have you checked the fuel pump relay above the ecu. I had this problem on a quest I bought and didnt run i didnt even replace it just had a bad ground. Dont know if it will help you but it solved that cars problem. BTW a new fuel pump relay is expencive Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaliConquestAlex Posted October 27, 2014 Report Share Posted October 27, 2014 Maybe a Throttle Position Sensor issue. You can search for the reset procedure. Also, could be related to the coolant temp sensor, which is responsible for open or closed loop running conditions. Also, disconnect the idle air valve and see if it will stay running. Could be that valve is broken. Also, ensure that the fuel injector clips are on the right sides, primary and secondary. If the injector clips look old and crusty, replace them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markhansenconquest Posted October 27, 2014 Report Share Posted October 27, 2014 (edited) have u changed all 3 filters....in tank,,,cone filter inline before pump ,, the one in engine bay and the screens in top hat ???? How long has the car been sitting??...have u cleaned the tank out ??Pull drain plug in gas tank and stick your finger in drain and wipe the bottom of tank with your finger and see if it is rusty....fuel system must be CLEAN or u will destroy your NEW pump and injectors ......dad or mitsu dealer has in tank filter and in engine bay..MB129890 tank and MB504732 engine bay....... Edited October 27, 2014 by markhansenconquest Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cristarion Posted October 27, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 27, 2014 hunter85 yes i tried 3 different relays istill does the same thing. CaliConquestAlex thanks for the tips.. ill check those points good call. markhansenconquest the car was sitting for about 2 years before i bought it, i have replaced the fuel filter in gastank and the one at front.Im going to buy a fuel pressure gage today to see whats the pressure at starting point. The weird part is that if i installed the fuel pressure reg. it wont start and the cylinder #4 gets floated of gas. which i get because the position of the car is on a lil hill. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ucw458 Posted October 31, 2014 Report Share Posted October 31, 2014 The fuel pump only turns on when the ECU sees a RPM signal from the ignition system. If the tach doesn't move when you crank it then you may not have the wires hooked up to the coil. Next you need to check for leaking injectors. Pull the OVCP off and look into the throttle body while powering the fuel pump. If you see dripping or spraying from the injectors then they need to be cleaned or replaced. You should see no fuel coming from them if everything is ok. Clean or replace the injector electrical connections (injector clips). Injectors take a bosch ev1 style connector. They get corroded and don't let power get to the injectors. Many SQs have had this problem. If they look factory then replace them. Remember your car is an 87 so it has a primary (black top) and a secondary (green top). Don't mix up the wires. Secondary flows almost double what the primary flows. Secondary doesn't come on until around 3k rpm. So if the injector clips are reversed the engine will idle like poop if it runs at all. Check ignition timing. It should be 10 degrees before top dead center or BTDC. Make sure the fuel pump is wired with the correct polarity. Reverse polarity will cause the pump to run but not flow any fuel. Also cut off the black resistor box on the pump wiring right next to the pump. Some have had issues with it causing a big voltage drop at the pump. It's only there for radio noise prevention. There is a switch on the nose of the idle solenoid where it contacts the throttle. It tells the ECU when you have let your foot off the gas. If it's faulty it can cause a bunch of weird symptoms like poor idle or no power. After you have checked all that stuff you probably need to do a TPS/ISC reset. You can find the procedure in the FAQ section or the FSM. SQ ECUs are dinosaurs. They don't respond to change well. So the idle rpm, throttle opening and TPS all have to sync to a specific starting point. If they aren't adjusted properly then the ECU has no idea how to compensate. That's what the TPS/ISC reset is for. Wiring diagrams and all repair info can be found in the FSM here. http://www.starquestgarage.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
importwarrior Posted October 31, 2014 Report Share Posted October 31, 2014 vacuum test the fuel pressure regulator diaphragm.the little vac line coming out the bottom. hook a vac test tool to it and it should hold. or remove the vac line from bottom of fuel pressure regulator. if gas comes out then it needs to be replaced.if no gas comes out then get clean hose. hook it to the fuel pressure regulator. suck on it if it holds your suction and it is NOT like sucking on a straw then it is good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cristarion Posted October 31, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2014 thanks guys !!! I'll check all of that today and keep you all posted........ wish me luck . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DSMracespeed Posted November 1, 2014 Report Share Posted November 1, 2014 is the gas tank rusted? Jerry L. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cristarion Posted November 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 2, 2014 no gas tank looks really clean no rust at all Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cristarion Posted November 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 3, 2014 ok, it seems that this dream is going to take a lil bit more time to become true...... evrytime i got something figure it out something else is bad and put me in the same situation... my skills are not working lol..... what i'm gonna do is start from scratch... im going to get rid off all Vaccum Lines that i dont need, EGR , AC pipes and compressor, and Charcoal canister. i will probably need some help.... pics will be nice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
importwarrior Posted November 3, 2014 Report Share Posted November 3, 2014 Did you check the FAQ ??? ithis is in the intake section This is what i did for my Vac Line Delete my car didnt have AC and it was all removed.Also my car didnt have a charcoal canister underthe air can on passenger side. it was vented in theback near the gas tank. Also there is no BOV so this is absolutly the basic Vac line setup. I was hoping to ADD this to the topic in the Tech section.http://www.starquest...showtopic=28042 The Blue Hose goes to my Boost Gauge on dash. The Center is just blocked off. the Black Hose goes to the Distributor Vac Advance. Below the 3 in a row is the vac line that goes to the Foot FaceActuator for your heater controls. also note the last pic it is #4 if you have a BOV, T off of the Blue vac line shown in the 1st Pic. Thats It. http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q299/I-W/Quest_Parts_and_Info/IMG_1436.jpg http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q299/I-W/Quest_Parts_and_Info/IMG_1437.jpg http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q299/I-W/Quest_Parts_and_Info/IMG_1438.jpg http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q299/I-W/Quest_Parts_and_Info/Mani-Vac-Ports.gif Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cristarion Posted November 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 3, 2014 thanks! ill this going... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ucw458 Posted November 4, 2014 Report Share Posted November 4, 2014 what i'm gonna do is start from scratch... im going to get rid off all Vaccum Lines that i dont need, EGR , AC pipes and compressor, and Charcoal canister. If you do that you wont be able to smog or register your car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
importwarrior Posted November 4, 2014 Report Share Posted November 4, 2014 oh i didn't see he was in California Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cristarion Posted November 9, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 9, 2014 at the moment I'm not trying to keep it as a daily driving, I wanna hit the tracks with some friends they have SILVIAS, AND HONDAS, I have a 95 Honda prelude with a H23a1 right now.. quick but I know rear wheel drive is more fun.... besides no one has a starion lol..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cristarion Posted November 9, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 9, 2014 I just finish taking all the AC stuff, charcoal canister, EGR, the speed control actuator and ABS.reconnect the BOV and Distributor Vac as pic shows above. I got to a stopping point where don't know what to do with the abs lines, should I just plug them or bypass them...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cristarion Posted November 9, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 9, 2014 HERE ARE SOME PICS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cristarion Posted November 9, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 9, 2014 . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starfighterpilot Posted November 11, 2014 Report Share Posted November 11, 2014 You have an '87 Starquest Lady. HHHHMMM!! I'm not really sure by what you mean in your OP where you state that you replaced the "ignition control box." The '87 EFI ECU or the '87 Ignitor box? The "87's have an infamous internal Ignitor problem where it shorts out, or creates an open circuit as internal circuit heat builds up in it and then mysteriously corrects itself as it cools down cuz the igniton circuit cools down cuz the ignition circuit is off. Your's may take only 20 seconds to cause this to happen. Check the Ignitor to see if it has a plastic cover over it. If it does, then I would suggest that you get a GOOD used '88/89 ignitor box ( with a metal cover plate on it ) from the Parts Wanted forum, install it, ( it's plug & play ) and see how your Lady runs then. I may be totally off base but................. it's worth a clarification For What It's Worth. KEN Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cristarion Posted November 11, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 11, 2014 your right the ignitior i got is plastic... i did find one online and thats the one is got in it at the moment, it fires up now but im having more problems with it. i dont have a lot of skills as a mechanic but what i decide was, to start taking apart what i dont want in the engine bay like the charcoal canister,complete AC,vaccum lines, EGR and cruse control. i order new injectors, temp sensor, injector clips, knock sensor, used 89 ecu, with main relay and now that you mention it would be a good idea to order the 89 ignitorfrom there ill start again.. knowing that i have the primary parts are good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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