hunter85

Probly he can come to me if he has a personal problem but I wouldnt lol....... I just want people to know is all...... it does still run but with compression like that its on its last leg engines are cheap but like you said 5k=nice starion 89 dont get me wrong I personally put 5k in the dang thing its got some good parts but that engine is toasted.. anyone that knows about them doesnt need this warning anyway but there are new to starion people

Hi I sold a starion about 5 months ago to a person who is selling it now .... long story short had perfect compression and was in good shape when it left my shop hes ran it into the ground put a straight pipe exhaust on it and he came over this weekend asking for help I did a compression check for him cyl 2 has 60psi the starter is going out and in general looks like crap compared to what I did to it. JUST A WARNING FOR PEOPLE IN KNOXVILLE OR LOOKING he is asking 5000 on it you will at very least need a head gasket but I think the head has a hairline crack in it now as the rest of the cylinders where at 90psi lol just a heads up thanks guys

I have had this bov in my car since I got it when i first got the car this bov sounded wicked well it doesnt sound so wicked anymore more queefy than anything sometimes at high boost12lb or so it will blow off like it is suposed to . I took it apart everthing looks good inside diaphram ect one thing I noticed was it was really hard to compress the bov in Im not weak and it took alot to push it in also it took alot to put it back together by myself as my retarded butt didnt use my vices anyway should it be that hard to compress it is a 11lb spring I think wastegate is still working so im not worried about boost surges but just wondering thanks in advance Travis Happy Holidays

Speaking of 3d printing in Knoxville I can give you the guys number if you want to. He is a full scale 3d printer not a personal friend of mine just someone I met and he did a amazing job. First made a prototype of the tps nipple gave it to me to make sure it worked I did have to shave some off but no big deal there. After he knew I was happy he made the other 10 out of a more quality material it did cost me like 110$ but heck thats 10 a peice there abouts. BTW these sit on my desk if someone wants one I can help them out on the tps nipples I know they break mine did I will ship you one for free as they fit in envelope just to help you guys out but like I said you will have to adjust your tpss out to work. He said he can do most anything you can imagine and if he cant he knows someone who can he also does shipping. Something I learned about 3d printer companies is that if your not spending 1000$ they usualy wont mess with you!!!

Mine did the same thing turned out to be my alt/water belt groove on the pulley was wiggly as all get out just put a new one on and it charges alot higher/ runs smoother its a pain really to get the aftermarket pulley on I would imagine even crappier having to take off the radiator and fans

Ok I put this MK1 pulley on and it starts runs and idles 200% better than with the wiggly one I can also tighten my alternator/water belt finnaly . For funsies I checked the timing {put a new mark on the mk1 pulley exactly where the stock pulley mark was} It was at 6btdc and now it rests at 10btdc without advance and when I started it with advance line still on it was off the scale completely I guess 18-20 btdc. It runs fine and I think the mk1 pulley was slightly bigger {underdrive} which would explain why it is so off or did I do something wrong and should throw it back in perfect time thanks in advance Travis PS these pulleys look awesome and perform good but I got to thinking how long can a alluminum pulley last without warping I hope almost 30 years like the stock one

IN the picture looks like you need a new oil pressure sending unit or your oil pressure is nothing it shouldnt be at the bottom of the gauge just a heads up probly nothing wrong but people will notice that nice paint though like the red

Only the one pulley wheel wiggled looks like they werent one peice like they should have been^^

Yay me........ There are 3 left to buy of these as a heads up I like the blue but it was exp thanks

On my 87 starion I was noticing the crank pulley is wobbly around the pully for the alt/water pump the belt itself is tight and it runs fine but im sure thats not rite is it? It wiggles from front to back around 1 cm doesnt do it while running but I can wiggle it by hand when its off. Just checking to make sure I have a problem before I buy a new one thanks Travis

Looks like leaky injector when the car is off I swear it didnt leak before but I took off the ovcp and sure enough the pressure is leaking out there its about a drop every 2 mins or so. So any suggestions on aftermarket injectors im looking at trilogy since they are cheaper but if Fuel injection pro work better Ill spend the extra 50$ anyone had personal trys with either of these injectors please give me your input thanks Travis

Usualy your regular car insurance takes care of anything that happend in any rented vehicle you drive look into your insurance policy and call your agent. I had this happen in Florida on vacation I pissed someone off and while I was eating at wendys they kicked a large dent in the drivers door I just laughed and went on about my business but I Also always OPT for the 10$ insurance on the rented car but I do know your regular everyday insurance covers it most of the time.

QUOTE:When the ISC/MPS adjustment is out of whack, what typically happens is the ECU pre-sets the throttle position to a too-closed position... then as you lift off the throttle pedal and the engine returns to idle it ends up idling way too slowly. After a second or so, the ECU is able to kick the RPMs back up with the ISC. ^^^^this is exactly what is happening it will start and idle well now that I put new plugs at .35 gap and fresh oil without gas in it.. The car runs great at full boost and like crap around idle when you boost hard then come to a abrupt stop it almost wants to die it will flash the lights like it died then come back up to idle Me thinks it is something to do with the isc I jsut replaced the one in my starion so I will throw the old one on this conquest to see if any diffrence is made thanks for your help mikec I apreciate it

It is in perfect time now and starts and runs fine but it is wanting to die when coming to an idle and that sounds familiar sounds like a tps is going bad I will do a sweep test it is also a bit lean tword full boost and wot

I think it is a timing thing took off valve cover saw a new chain but no marks I will realign tdc and maybe i can fix it. When i try to put it in time it is either to advanced or to retarded not 6btdc I cant get to that. I turned the distributor thinking I was off a tooth but I cant get the correct tooth value is in the middle of 2 of the teeth. I think they did the timing chain wrong..... ALSO the crank pulley at the bottom wiggles a little bit its the water pump alternator pulley that is loose the fonr one is not is that bad

Silly question but have you checked the fuel pump relay above the ecu. I had this problem on a quest I bought and didnt run i didnt even replace it just had a bad ground. Dont know if it will help you but it solved that cars problem. BTW a new fuel pump relay is expencive

Firing order on it is Distributor= 1324 one being top right corner then going clockwise 324..... And my piston order is 1234 one begin in front of bay 4 is the back of course I hope this is rite it runs to good not to be and im pretty sure it is but to make sure this is rite I am posting it this car is giving me nightmares

Nope no leaks I put diffrent ecu in and it didnt do anything diffrent. I was thinkin at work today maybe I didnt put the spark wires back on in order I will check them when I get home thanks for the responces I appreciate any suggestions.. pulled hose under fpr and nothing came out at idle not even a smell.

they are japanese and they make alot of belts for kubota and honda mowers I have alot of these hanging around good belts not knock offs atleast for small engine I had one on one of the conquest Ive had as a water pump/alternator belt but for cars I use Gates belts seem to hold up well....

I just took them off and flowed them they only shot when power was applied I dont think it is that Im chaging the ecu rite now but I also dont think that is it stumped lol

I picked up another conquest and it runs good when you get it started. Ok after the first start of the day its fine but if you dont crank the car as soon as you turn the key {IE leave the acc on to listen to radio, set tps, ect} and dont crank the starter it will flood the plugs and not start I know because I can uplug the primary injector and it will run for 10 secs off the gas its dumping into it , plug the injector back in good to go. I checked my oil and it looked amber but had a little gas smell to it so I changed it. I just rebuilt the TB because it was leaky and had to replace the oring inside where the main fuel line goes into on filler neck it was a oring I got a Advanced auto and it was same size but not mitsu OEM does that matter? Anyone have any sugestions for me I flowed the injectors while I had them out and the flow test was well on them inside tb was clean ect. everything looks good tps and isc work good in spec and ISC zips like it is supposed to and I am dumbfounded I have an extra ecu laying around I will try out today just to make sure but I dont think thats it. Thanks in advance for any help Travis