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Blown Headgasket


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3 weeks ago my secondary air filter line rusted through and blew hot exhaust onto a heater hose causing it to rupture and blow out all of my coolant. I didn't notice until the engine overheated and the temperature light came on. I fixed the coolant line, refilled the cooling system, and the car ran like normal. At the time, I didnt realize why the heater hose had blown, so I didn't correct that problem. A few days ago, the coolant hose blew again on the highway. This time I noticed the heat turn off and stopped the car before the engine got too hot. However, after fixing the heater hose again and having a friend weld shut the secondary air filter at the exhaust, I can't start my Starion :(.

 

I have spark on all 4 cylinders and can see fuel spraying when the engine cranks. I was also able to get it running for about 10 seconds with the throttle pinned to the ground and it felt like it was running on 1 or 2 cylinders. Dry compression test gives pretty bad results:

 

#1 - 85 psi

#2 - 60 psi

#3 - 70 psi

#4 - 100 psi

 

I know this is a low compression engine, but these are still bad numbers right? I am thinking a blown headgasket between cylinders 1 and 2. I'd like some opinions before I pull off the head though.

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If it sounds like it's running on 2 cylinders and the 2&3 cylinders are that low (disregarding the 4th) then I would think it might be blown right in the center. Had it happen on my Starion cruising at 35mph and suddenly it just dropped two cylinders. Even if it isn't a blown gasket, I would still replace it and check the head and deck with a straight edge and feeler gauge for reassurance. Then trouble shoot from there.

 

While you've got the head off, you could pour some ATF in each cylinder and see if any fluid leaks down. If so, you have a ring problem. If not, it's most likely a head gasket or head. Both easy to replace.

 

Good Luck!

 

- Charles

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Certainly welcome to come to the meet whether you're driving it or not. Tow it to the meet and we'll have something to wrench on.

 

But yeah, you won't really know anything until you pull the head off, you could do a leakdown test if you have the equipment, that would tell you if you're leaking between cylinders and/or rings or valves.

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I'll have to try the ATF trick, didn't know about that one, thanks.

 

I'm sure that border security would love me towing a broken down Starion into the states! I'm actually living in Calgary, Alberta for the summer so I wouldn't be able to make it anyways, unfortunately. I will update the thread when I get the head off because I hate when threads go unfinished.

 

I have another quick couple questions that arne't really worth a new thread:

 

1. I want to rebuild the turbo soon and am wondering if I can use any 12a rebuild kit even though the non-intercooled turbos are clocked differently?

 

2. Where can I buy the seal that goes between the turbo and OVC pipe on the non-intercooled cars?

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If it sounds like it's running on 2 cylinders and the 2&3 cylinders are that low (disregarding the 4th) then I would think it might be blown right in the center. Had it happen on my Starion cruising at 35mph and suddenly it just dropped two cylinders. Even if it isn't a blown gasket, I would still replace it and check the head and deck with a straight edge and feeler gauge for reassurance. Then trouble shoot from there.

 

While you've got the head off, you could pour some ATF in each cylinder and see if any fluid leaks down. If so, you have a ring problem. If not, it's most likely a head gasket or head. Both easy to replace.

 

Good Luck!

 

- Charles

Forgive my ignorance, but how much of the ATF? and will that not effect anything if it does leak down past the rings?

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  • 2 weeks later...

Normally you just use enough so that you can tell if it leaks down. Obviously you'd want to change your oil afterwards.

 

But looks like you've found the problem. Common problems with these engines. The cracked head is, at least. These heads were used on a TON of cars in the 80s so you shouldn't have too hard of a time finding a head from a junkyard. Just makes sure you use the Station valve train.

 

- Charles

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  • 4 weeks later...
Car is back up and running thanks to a new head and valves from enginemachineservice! I gutted the downpipe and removed the non-functioning A/C system and secondary air cleaner while the head was off too. It runs better than it did before the cracks, even though I haven't set the timing yet
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  • 2 months later...

Ajusa is definitely better, but if you're not running much more than stock boost then you would be perfectly fine with either. I'm running a FelPro on my car running about 18psi on standard head bolts and I haven't had a single problem with it in two years now (since the rebuild). Just make sure you retorque it down properly even if it IS a permatorque. Just for extra measure.

 

- Charles

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  • 9 months later...

Not hard at all. Take it off, cut the line to get the nut, and install something between the hole and the nut and tighten it down.

 

Or you could do what I did and just cut the line and use some vicegrips to crimp and fold the line shut.

 

- Charles

Edited by nightwalkerancestery
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or if you can weld pull the nut off the down pipe remove the metal line going to the secondary and fill the nut in. a little neater... Edited by 87redcat
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http://i1314.photobucket.com/albums/t563/originalmoxiecat/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20150415_190431_286_zpszln4mzp6.jpg

 

 

or if ya can find one of these. My buddy had it gave it to me. just luck he had it. dont know from what though

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