Malykaii Posted March 20, 2014 Report Share Posted March 20, 2014 So I was reading about the 3 wire and saw mention of a 4 wire. 4th wire being a ground, so no need for a sheilding/braided ground line. So any part number in particular anyone use? Also read about using a resistor across + and - to cut power at optimum heat. No real info on this... google suggests a "20 ohm 10 watt resistor". Sound about right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Malykaii Posted April 25, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 25, 2014 Anyone running a 4 wire? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ucw458 Posted April 26, 2014 Report Share Posted April 26, 2014 Are you running an Innovate wideband? If so configure the second output to narrow band. Then connect it to the ECU. I ran mine that way for 2 years without issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZacMan Posted April 26, 2014 Report Share Posted April 26, 2014 A 4 wire sensor has separate grounds for the heater element and the sensor circuit. It will still have a shielding sheath that need to be grounded near the ECU (and only at this point, not at the other end). A 20 Ohm resistor across 14 volts will dissipate damn near 10 watts of power as heat, so you'll probably end up burning a 10 watt resistor out if it's doing that constantly, better to move to a 15watt or 20watt resistor for some headroom. However... I can't think of a single reason to put a resistor across the + and - of the heater elements. Doing that is hooking it up in parallel with the heater element, so the heater will still see 14V across is, making no difference to the sensor at all. All it will do is draw more current from the driving circuit that powers the heater element (as it's now delivering current to the added resistor also), possibly burning it out too! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mbruneaux Posted August 23, 2015 Report Share Posted August 23, 2015 So a resistor isn't necessary? I bought a second hand downpipe that has a 4 wire O2 in it and a second bung for my Uego. The wires on the O2 are burned to a crisp so I'm really not sure what is what and need to start from scratch. 2 Black wires1 White wire1 Blue wire Any help is appreciated, thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott87star Posted August 23, 2015 Report Share Posted August 23, 2015 Unscrew the 4 wire and throw it away, screw in a one wire or plug it if you don't need a narrow band signal. You've got a UEGO so who cares? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mbruneaux Posted August 23, 2015 Report Share Posted August 23, 2015 (edited) Unscrew the 4 wire and throw it away, screw in a one wire or plug it if you don't need a narrow band signal. You've got a UEGO so who cares? So I can use the signal from the Uego as the signal to the ECM? In place of the O2? Edited August 23, 2015 by mbruneaux Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Malykaii Posted August 24, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 24, 2015 (edited) I forgot about this thread. Never did change my o2 sensor, and should. So I guess same question still stands... If running a heated o2 sensor (3 or 4 wire), how do I shut the heated element off once the sensor is at peak temps? (since a resistor isn't the answer) Edited August 24, 2015 by Malykaii Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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