gabea101 Posted January 27, 2014 Report Share Posted January 27, 2014 I got some new remanufactured calipers from autozone and installed them. I'm still having the same problem with the rear brakes dragging a little...(both rims are still a little hot) the e brake is adjusted to be more loose so this is not making the brakes drag. What else can you recommend looking at? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott87star Posted January 27, 2014 Report Share Posted January 27, 2014 Proportioning valve is probably gummed up, it sounds like you need to purge the entire system. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BC_99 Posted January 27, 2014 Report Share Posted January 27, 2014 If you still have the original rubber brake lines, replace them. BC_99 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
importwarrior Posted January 27, 2014 Report Share Posted January 27, 2014 some times the e brake cable at the caliper rusts up a littlecausing the cable to not fully release the ebrake mechanism.try pulling the ebrake cable at the caliper to see if you canget some slack out of the cable. try and move it by hand seeif the cable is smooth or bound up. should be an easy test to do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starion86ESI Posted January 27, 2014 Report Share Posted January 27, 2014 Have you tried disconnecting the ebrake and driving around to see if that's it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mechengrkj Posted January 28, 2014 Report Share Posted January 28, 2014 (edited) Sounds like you might have the same problem that I'm having here. I think it's the proportioning valve in my case. The brakes don't drag initially until you drive for a while then they start to drag and heat up the rotors. I ordered a new wilwood valve and am waiting for it to come to see if that does the trick. Have you deleted the ABS? Edited January 28, 2014 by mechengrkj Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gabea101 Posted January 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2014 Thanks for the replies guys...I will start by replacing the rubber lines and drain the system.Where is the proportioning valve located at so I can clean that out? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gabea101 Posted January 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2014 How do you delete the abs you are talking about? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gabea101 Posted January 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2014 Have you tried disconnecting the ebrake and driving around to see if that's it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gabea101 Posted January 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2014 Have you tried disconnecting the ebrake and driving around to see if that's it. Not yet...but its not pulling the lever on the caliper at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mechengrkj Posted January 29, 2014 Report Share Posted January 29, 2014 (edited) Un-maintained ABS canisters are notorious for locking up the rear brakes. You can find info on deleting the ABS here and here. (I bought a flexline from Summit Racing instead of bending my own line but you can do it either way.) The proportioning valve is bolted to the firewall below the brake booster. Mine was filled with junk. I think that removing the ABS canister can cause the proportioning valve to work differently because you are removing about 10 feet of brake line so be aware that your rear brakes may start to lock up after a while if you decide to do the delete. Wilwood sells a proportioning valve that I have ordered and am going to be installing soon. EDIT: I have found that searching using the starquestclub search you can rarely find acronyms like abs because they are three letters. If you search on google something like "site:starquestclub.com abs delete" you can get a lot better results. FYI. Edited January 29, 2014 by mechengrkj Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gabea101 Posted January 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2014 Un-maintained ABS canisters are notorious for locking up the rear brakes. You can find info on deleting the ABS here and here. (I bought a flexline from Summit Racing instead of bending my own line but you can do it either way.) The proportioning valve is bolted to the firewall below the brake booster. Mine was filled with junk. I think that removing the ABS canister can cause the proportioning valve to work differently because you are removing about 10 feet of brake line so be aware that your rear brakes may start to lock up after a while if you decide to do the delete. Wilwood sells a proportioning valve that I have ordered and am going to be installing soon. EDIT: I have found that searching using the starquestclub search you can rarely find acronyms like abs because they are three letters. If you search on google something like "site:starquestclub.com abs delete" you can get a lot better results. FYI.Thanks for the info again. I will find the valve and clean it out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Edde Posted January 30, 2014 Report Share Posted January 30, 2014 The cables are also notorious for getting hung up. You can check the balance and adjustment for them under the center console. You can see down there first by prying out the compartment under the armrest lid (carefully). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ucw458 Posted January 30, 2014 Report Share Posted January 30, 2014 Just a thought, when you bled the rear brakes did you let the fluid dribble all over the calipers or did you connect a hose and let it drip into a bottle? I ask because if you get brake fluid or grease on the pads they get contaminated and drag on the rotors. I know it's counter intuitive but brake fluid, oil and grease don't lube pads they make them sticky. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gabea101 Posted January 31, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2014 When I bleed the brakes I did not hook a hose to them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gabea101 Posted February 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2014 UPDATE: I bled the system of the old brake fluid and cleaned out the brake reservoir. It had black gunk at the bottom of it. I put the need brake fluid in and bled it again really good. I test drove the car and its not dragging anymore. I think it just needed new brake fluid...What do you think? Thank you guys for all your help:) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mechengrkj Posted February 1, 2014 Report Share Posted February 1, 2014 (edited) UPDATE: I bled the system of the old brake fluid and cleaned out the brake reservoir. It had black gunk at the bottom of it. I put the need brake fluid in and bled it again really good. I test drove the car and its not dragging anymore. I think it just needed new brake fluid...What do you think? Thank you guys for all your help:) Nice work! I did something similar but it wasn't until I drove it for a while and used the brakes more that they started dragging again. Keep an eye on it and if they start to smell like they are getting hot, stop driving it. Last thing you want is a burnt down car because your brakes got too hot! Edited February 1, 2014 by mechengrkj Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts