Fuze Posted July 18, 2013 Report Share Posted July 18, 2013 http://i.imgur.com/ZFyId.jpg BLAST PIPE! I'm swapping the N1 can for a single 3" in, dual 3" out with dual blast pipes aiming at the corner. Shiny is so 90's, lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
'87quest Posted July 18, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 18, 2013 The 3in mk1 system on ebay is a good choice? or should I just buy a downpipe and have a local shop bend the rest out of 3 inch pipe with a magna flow muffler? is the mk1 muffler good? sound nice? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
'87quest Posted July 18, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 18, 2013 And which downpipe is better? http://www.ebay.com/itm/1983-1989-Chrysler-Conquest-MK1-MK2-DSM-1G-AWD-Stainless-Downpipe-G54B-2-6L-TD05-/180852575512?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3AChrysler%7CModel%3AConquest&hash=item2a1ba74d18&vxp=mtr or http://www.ebay.com/itm/All-New-MK1-3-SUS304-Down-Pipe-w-New-Flange-4-Starion-/380292002196?hash=item588b2b7194&vxp=mtr? and why does the second one have a bigger flange on top? or what about this one http://www.racetep.com/downpipe.html?? Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
'87quest Posted July 18, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 18, 2013 And do any of you guys have anything like this laying around? or know of anyone that does? I'd like to buy used if possible.. I'm just a broke college kid haha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
importwarrior Posted July 19, 2013 Report Share Posted July 19, 2013 (edited) just a side note. be cautious of the end of the tail pipe. it can meltthe bumper if too short or close to the bumper. I had to extend mytip just past the end of the bumper to stop it from me;ting. pics from DVenables beautiful Durban. the melted part cut out. http://www.26liter.us/gallery/albums/userpics/15101/P8290164.jpg what he did to fix it. http://www.26liter.us/gallery/albums/userpics/15101/P8290166.jpg why the end of the exhaust should go past the end of the bumper.Even though i like it under the bumper. http://www.26liter.us/gallery/albums/userpics/15101/P8290167.jpg Edited July 19, 2013 by importwarrior Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Technology Posted July 19, 2013 Report Share Posted July 19, 2013 Look around for custom fabricators in your town that are doing good work. When I was in college, I found a guy who was AMAZING at tig welding and specialized in custom aftermarket go-fast parts. He worked out of his own small shop and charged really reasonable prices. Go to race events or track days or just car hang outs at night and ask around. You could probably get one done custom for 300 bucks or less. (That's a steal, seriously). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
'87quest Posted July 19, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 19, 2013 Would I get as good of performance with a custom one or would the mk1 be better? Just trying to get the most out of what exhaust I do.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
importwarrior Posted July 19, 2013 Report Share Posted July 19, 2013 (edited) to me the benefit is in the mandrel bends as opposed to the crinkle or press bends.smoother flow. the less the angle kind of like a 45 rather then a 90 helps.but to be honest if your not racing you probably will not notice the difference.i went from a stock to a 3 inch no cat straight through muffler. the turbo spoolon the stock turbo was faster. nothing to pressurize behind the exhaust turbine likea clogged up cat converter. plus 3 inches being larger less restrictive flow allhelped the turbo spool a little quicker. it was loud. now if i could do it again i wouldprobably go 3 inch with 2 resinators and a WLK-17223 muffler from summitracing.had one on my last 4 quests. deep tone great flow. i would hope that would get ridof the droning. Edited July 19, 2013 by importwarrior Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cloud81918 Posted July 19, 2013 Report Share Posted July 19, 2013 Ahh, this used to be a debate between Top End Performance, and Custom Network Motorsports (CNM) back in the day, CNM sold a 3" mandrel exhaust and TEP sold a 2.5". TEP was fond of saying 3" was too big, until James from CNM called them out on it with dyno results on stock and lightly modified cars for his 3" system vs TEP's 2.5" system.. After a while, TEP started selling 3" systems after CNM went out of business. First, let's rule out cats and assume you'll run a straight thru muffler.3" is the size you want on a turbo car for best performance and to make sure you don't outgrow the exhaust system. 2.5 will work just fine, but 3" will work better at minimizing backpressure. I have had an HKS (60mm, less than 2.5"), a 2.5" with TEP downpipe, a crappy 3" KayDM system, and a full 3" MK1 SS system. None of the other ones compare to the MK1 system. Get it and forget it. Nice to know about the MK1 SS system. I have that one and I have been reasonably happy with it. I got the matching 3 inch DP too. Mookeeh didn't send the silencer with mine. Attempts to remedy it weren't fruitful, so I'm going to have to buy one of those. I also had to use a graphite gasket to seal the DP and the exhaust. The stock gasket didn't cut it. Past those issues though the system seem well built. The 4 inch tip is a little much; but figure it isn't on a Honda. The MK1 3 inch does drone a bit, but I've currently have only about half of the interior in place as I'm doing interior work. I'd guess with the rear seats re-installed and the silencer that car will be great are freeway speeds. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
'87quest Posted July 19, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 19, 2013 Hmmm now I don't know if I should buy a downpipe and have the rest custom made or buy the downside and mk1 3in system and just have the missing section made... decisions decisions decisions! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
'87quest Posted July 19, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 19, 2013 Hmmm now I don't know if I should buy a downpipe and have the rest custom made or buy the downside and mk1 3in system and just have the missing section made... decisions decisions decisions! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fuze Posted July 22, 2013 Report Share Posted July 22, 2013 (edited) Hmmm now I don't know if I should buy a downpipe and have the rest custom made or buy the downside and mk1 3in system and just have the missing section made... decisions decisions decisions! Dude, for the price and hassle of getting a custom exhaust system built from the downpipe back, you can save money and buy the whole MK1 system. Most muffler shops also don't do mandrel bends, or use stainless steel. If they do, your exhaust will probably cost you over $400 for a downpipe-back system. The MK1 also comes in 2.5" and 3". Edited July 22, 2013 by Fuze Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ColdScrip Posted July 22, 2013 Report Share Posted July 22, 2013 Right but the MK1 does not include the middle pipe that replaces the pipe with the stock cat.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
'87quest Posted July 23, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 23, 2013 yeah I think I'm going to buy the mk1 3 inch system and 3 inch downpipe and just have a shop in town fab up the missing pipe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fuze Posted July 23, 2013 Report Share Posted July 23, 2013 Right but the MK1 does not include the middle pipe that replaces the pipe with the stock cat.... Mine sure did, it's catless. Either way that little test pipe section would be cheap to get made. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
traps Posted July 23, 2013 Report Share Posted July 23, 2013 My set-up....&dm 2.5" DP to a flex section to mendrel bend 2.5 till the end of a chrome two tip. No Muffler no problem I don't care about sound as long as DPS leaves me alone and I keep u[p with newer cars or wreck old ones. So my set up is straight thru and all i purchased was the 4dm DP and have the muffler place slap a flex and 2.5". I thought about the 3" but I hadn't done my rebuild yet and even after all the performance goodies and rebuilding and boring out I stilll like the 2.5". Its my opinion but if ya do it do it with realistic intentions and dont over do the pipes for a 12a you wont have and back pressure to spool, once again my 14B is stupid fast to spool so my set up works for me. Good luck sir and most of all add a flex section after DP to save your studs!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghinckley68 Posted July 24, 2013 Report Share Posted July 24, 2013 Good luck sir and most of all add a flex section after DP to save your studs!!!! My DP has a flex in it do i need to add another one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
traps Posted July 24, 2013 Report Share Posted July 24, 2013 My DP has a flex in it do i need to add another one If ya have a MookeeH with the flex pipe you should be good, and really as long as the DP has a flex you allow a little movement to relieve stress on the manifold studs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
'87quest Posted July 24, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 24, 2013 Ahh so should I go 2.5" instead? I would love to build my car up but I'm in college and that kind of money is hard to come by Haha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
importwarrior Posted July 24, 2013 Report Share Posted July 24, 2013 (edited) i cant believe this is still a problem.1 of 2 things.1 whats the easiest to aquire? 2 inch or 3 inch exhaust parts?size does not matter unless your making huge power. size doeshelp with spool. 2 what can you afford.if your in school just get what ya need to hold you over.unless you want to do it once. then just go 3 inch. i say go 3 inch. you can quiet it down if noise is a problem.i had the *DM on most of my cars and even a old CNM on one.they drone but that could be resolved with proper muffler or resinators.even a CAT will quiet it down some.BUT i do agree on the FLEX pipe. unless your running a FUNK LOCK!then not needed. Edited July 24, 2013 by importwarrior Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
natallica Posted July 24, 2013 Report Share Posted July 24, 2013 http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=138062&hl= -N8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
'87quest Posted July 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 25, 2013 Those are sweet but too expensive for me ha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RonnieJ Posted July 25, 2013 Report Share Posted July 25, 2013 http://piloseo.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/beating_a_dead_horse2.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
'87quest Posted July 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 25, 2013 Haha ^ I ordered the mk1 downpipe and 3in system.. now I just have to wait for it Haha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
traps Posted July 25, 2013 Report Share Posted July 25, 2013 well with the 12a put a muffler on it for back pressure to help spool then when ya start to upgrade then cut the Bi%^H off :-) IMO At least you are starting from the back of the car vs the front with begining mods, good luck sir Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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