SeanTheConquistador Posted July 16, 2013 Report Share Posted July 16, 2013 i finally got her out. took me way longer than it should have. but now the problem is setting it back in in the perfect place to have the gaskets seal correctly. i broke a few of the old bolts including the one on the left side of the O2 sensor, my concern is not only the bolts that are loose without nuts to be fitted on, (not enough room to screw one on) but also the pipe that sends oil into the turbo. i had to bend it a little bit to break that first nut. im not TO worried about it but i want this car to be perfect in every aspect. i have even taken the time to take a toothbrush to her under the hood. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SeanTheConquistador Posted July 16, 2013 Report Share Posted July 16, 2013 oh no i love this car i will never sell it unless someone tells me it will bring world peace, this is not my first car to fix anyway. ive already had to drop the gas tank (twice) i have no problems with being in awkward places, i just want the piece of mind for someone to tell me "hey you arent going to blow this thing up" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shelby Posted July 16, 2013 Report Share Posted July 16, 2013 in order to do engine and related repairs many times things may need to be removed thhat have nothing to do with what your actualy after or want to remove,, this is in order to provide acess to the part or so that you can get a wrench into or onto a nut or bolt sorry for the underlined type this thing does as it wants some days any way that is just part of life get over it and do what you have to do in order to get the job done ,, not sure why you had to mess with any thing on or about the 02 sensor hold down bolts but ,sounds like you may get a chance to learn a lot more then you want to about auto repair,, rust == PB Blaster is your friend,,,use him often and before you break the bolt not after this site and members can provide you with any info you may need but seldom does it come in instant form and knowelageable info in questions asked will lead to quicker and more spot on replys Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SeanTheConquistador Posted July 16, 2013 Report Share Posted July 16, 2013 i diddnt HAVE to mess with the O2, but i figured all gaskets need to be replaced sometime between nine years of sitting, and i do understand. i have a Mazda 626 as my commute car, so whatever i mess up is a learning experience i surely will never forget, the second i actually understood what this car was i realized the amount of respect that she needs and ill give it to her. and i am very patient with everything considering my father is an idiot, he hasnt been much help BUT! a big question i have, is considering my turbo is in my bedroom right now (getting a nice cleaning with a wire brush) is there anything i should do as far as PRIMING it? by that i mean oil and coolant, because there is nothing in it right now as far as fluids go and for that second that it is started without any fluid in it im thinking it may hurt it, i am veryjz about this car i dont even let anyone sit in it just yet. haha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shelby Posted July 16, 2013 Report Share Posted July 16, 2013 i'm not geting the reason for your removeing the turbo,,surely not to clean it up with a wire brush ?? as for that oil line to the turbo it is supper sensitive to twisting and turning and is the life line of the turbohers a little info that may help http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=50119 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SeanTheConquistador Posted July 16, 2013 Report Share Posted July 16, 2013 there was an exaust leak causing it to idle extremely funky, i probably should have said that. the car sat without a single start for nine years, so i figured every gasket needed to be replaced anyway. the gasket around the O2 sensor looked like white mold, if you would have seen it you would know what i meant. i am in no way worried or feeling like i screwed it up. the bend in the oil p[ipe isnt to bad anyway. like i said, im taking it slow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SeanTheConquistador Posted July 16, 2013 Report Share Posted July 16, 2013 *thank you by the way Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SeanTheConquistador Posted July 16, 2013 Report Share Posted July 16, 2013 im not taking the turbo apart by the way, its just a leak coming from the cat converter (i had an ASE certified mechanic look at it, just happens to be a friend) ALTHOUGH, i figured it may be a good idea down the line to maybe give it a look at and make sure everythings all good? assuming that i am definately not the first one to get their conquest after sitting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jszucs Posted July 16, 2013 Report Share Posted July 16, 2013 (edited) Alright..... now it sounds like you got the right idea / momentum there. Just keep at it. My car sat in a field for 6 years, and I went over every single part on the car. I broke maybe 30 40 bolts removing stuff, it's just the way it goes. As for removing stuff this car is not so bad, you should try something like a 300 ZX. You take like 2/3 of the motor apart to change plugs. Edited July 16, 2013 by jszucs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SeanTheConquistador Posted July 16, 2013 Report Share Posted July 16, 2013 what do you mean? go buy a 300ZX? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shelby Posted July 16, 2013 Report Share Posted July 16, 2013 the precat or oem down pipe is most likely melted any way so remove it and gut the internals in it the turbo gasket them selves is most likely not your exh leak,, most times its the manifold to head gasket caused by broken exh studs or cracks in the manifold,,start by spraying down ALL nuts and bolts holding the heat shields on,, once they are off you can see the manifold and any cracks it's also been my experiance that 02 sensor nuts almost always need to be heated to removed ,,also hope you have experiance with drilling out broken studs and i realy doubt any exh leak is effecting your idle,, more likely a vacuum leak or bad intake orings Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jszucs Posted July 16, 2013 Report Share Posted July 16, 2013 (edited) what do you mean? go buy a 300ZX? A 300 ZX is a NIGHTMARE car to work on. you have to take everything in the motor bay apart (often take the wheel wells apart and work through the wheel well) 1/2 way yank the motor out ECT just to do the simplest things on them, like changing spark plugs. In comparison the conquest is a walk in the park. Shelby he could have a nasty leak near his 02 sinec he said it's got white mold there. My guess is he does and it's sucking some air in and jacking with the A/F ratio the ECU is seeing. Then the ECU hunts for A/F ratio which effects his idle. Ether way the white stuff by the sensor = leak. So might as well fix it Edited July 16, 2013 by jszucs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shelby Posted July 16, 2013 Report Share Posted July 16, 2013 A 300 ZX is a NIGHTMARE car to work on. you have to take everything in the motor bay apart (often take the wheel wells apart and work through the wheel well) 1/2 way yank the motor out ECT just to do the simplest things on them, like changing spark plugs. In comparison the conquest is a walk in the park. Shelby he could have a nasty leak near his 02 sinec he said it's got white mold there. My guess is he does and it's sucking some air in and jacking with the A/F ratio the ECU is seeing. Then the ECU hunts for A/F ratio which effects his idle. Ether way the white stuff by the sensor = leak. So might as well fix it that car is not aalone for being a nightmare to work on,,theres a bunch of them Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jszucs Posted July 16, 2013 Report Share Posted July 16, 2013 that car is not aalone for being a nightmare to work on,,theres a bunch of them Pretty much all of them. If it's got B or tires it will give you trouble. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SeanTheConquistador Posted July 16, 2013 Report Share Posted July 16, 2013 (edited) two things: i WAS almost 100% sure it was from the exaust leak (my boost gauge started randomly reading differently one day) but now that you mention it, im sure its a combo of everything but i could see the difference in the idle once it was heated (expanding the metal and sealing it off a bit better)also, which one is the "pre cat" ive never seen one anyway, like i said im totally new to this i just know that it should be done anyway, also it looks like all these gaskets are metal...?? which sealent should i use that will be able to stand the heat? Edited July 16, 2013 by SeanTheConquistador Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patra_is_here Posted July 17, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 17, 2013 two things: i WAS almost 100% sure it was from the exaust leak (my boost gauge started randomly reading differently one day) but now that you mention it, im sure its a combo of everything but i could see the difference in the idle once it was heated (expanding the metal and sealing it off a bit better)also, which one is the "pre cat" ive never seen one anyway, like i said im totally new to this i just know that it should be done anyway, also it looks like all these gaskets are metal...?? which sealent should i use that will be able to stand the heat? boost is built before the exhaust ever gets to the 02 sensor, so an exhaust leak there wouldn't alter your boost. if you are seeing strange readings from your boost, you're either got a leak on the intake side, OR, your boost gauge or air flow meter are acting up. on the starion/conquest (everyone just calls the starquests, or SQ for short), the boost gauge isn't a true boost gauge, it's electronic, and it's controlled by the ECU which takes it's signal from the air flow meter and throttle position sensor and the ECU then approximates what i thinks the boost is, based on those two inputs. if either of those inputs are weird, then your boost will read weird. I highly recommend you read through all the FAQ threads, even the ones that don't apply directly. they have a ton of knowledge and every little bit helps on these cars. These cars are different than most cars out there, and most mechanics don't know how to work on them because they are so unique, so it's up to you to learn as much as you can. read the faq! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jszucs Posted July 17, 2013 Report Share Posted July 17, 2013 Yeah your really going to want to read through all the FAQ's and the archive too. Even if your not looking at it, there might be some random sugestions and things to look at. As for boost gage as said above it's a "gestemate" gage not a real one, so don't believe it, and don't realy on it. Also do the TPS reset (there are 2 methods dependon on year ect) If you don't have one might as well get a multi meter and learn how to use one. ( a cheaper one is fine have seen them at sears for like $20 on sale) You will need it at some point along the way. As for sealent dont use any, get new gaskets. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shelby Posted July 17, 2013 Report Share Posted July 17, 2013 if you haven't done so already make this your first proirty down load the Factory Service manual for your car,, (88) will do for what you need ) http://www.starquestgarage.com/ down load the entire thing or all of them you can find next make it your new BBF in other words read it,,, esp the fuel chaptori'm serious if you have no idea what it is your talking about we have little chance of helping you andputing forth energy is great just make sure it's in the right place,, don't be like Charlie , his boss tolk him he wanted a pool in his back yard , so Charlie thought he'd suprise his boss and worked all nite diging a hole for the pool , next morn his boss showed up and wow what a nice job you did , only problem is this is the wrong back yard meaning hard work is a good thing just make sure it's where and on what you need done Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patra_is_here Posted July 17, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 17, 2013 to the newbie: your motivation is great, just trust us that we're trying to get you on the same page as most of us. which is going to require that you learn how our cars work, and learn what all our initialisms mean (TPS, CTS, MAF, MAP, BOV, OVC, .........) =) we've all been newbies to these cars at one point, the key is don't get discouraged. I've owned mine for about 7 years and have learned so much about cars and troubleshooting during my ownership of this vehicle with the help of the people on this forum. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87redcat Posted July 17, 2013 Report Share Posted July 17, 2013 Yep. been shade tree meching for a long time. Got my first quest 6 yrs ago and I still look up stuff in the book and ask for help on here.. Great bunch of guys to learn from! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jszucs Posted July 17, 2013 Report Share Posted July 17, 2013 Heck mine took 6 years of work before I could drive it, even. But I stuck with it, and it puts a huge smile on my face every time now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fuze Posted July 18, 2013 Report Share Posted July 18, 2013 if you haven't done so already make this your first proirty down load the Factory Service manual for your car,, (88) will do for what you need ) http://www.starquestgarage.com/down load the entire thing or all of them you can find Truth. The Starion manuals are also referred to as The Holy Bible, by SQ owners. This is not an exaggeration. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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