Shelby Posted June 4, 2013 Report Share Posted June 4, 2013 maybe people put too much into watching a wide band meter and replaceing a fuel filter DID not fix all his problems Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2fast2six Posted June 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2013 (edited) i did the spark plugs, wires, coil, and bothe fuel filters and fuel pump. not really sure if my wideband was reading correctly. im pretty sure it was running rich due to the fact that their was an abundant amount of un burned fuel smell coming from my engine bay while driving... the car ran really perfect after i replaced all of that and boosted 14 psi just fine without a missing a heartbeat. also did a cts sensor and a oxygen sensor. car ran great from may 13th till just today . the car idels and drives fine under normal driving conditions untill i get into the throttle and now its going back to it going bah bah bah and feels like a missfire? not really sure. cant boost and if i do it def doesent have any power and wants to cut out but isent a fuel cut like it would if i hit too much boost. the throttle body has a 90 degree elbow welded onto the TB intake and im not able to take off the intake piping to look to see if injectors are leaking or not spraying good. i swapped out nose switch and got good readings doing the sweep test... idk if my injectors are bad or possibly the injector clips, distributor, knock sensor? it had good vacume from the distributor when sucking on the vacum line and held just fine...... bad ground? i know my battery is weak as well. help Edited June 5, 2013 by 2fast2six Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2fast2six Posted June 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2013 ignition module? weak alternator or weak battery not giving enough spark.? last night i was driving and it was acting up and so i shut the car off while driving and turned the key to the on position and let the clutch out and car started up and seemed to run really good for some reason no hicups... then it sat over night and was acting up again on my way to work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
importwarrior Posted June 5, 2013 Report Share Posted June 5, 2013 check the tank and cone or conicle filters again... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shelby Posted June 5, 2013 Report Share Posted June 5, 2013 check for jumpy voltage at ign coil, bad ign swt will do that Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2fast2six Posted June 6, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2013 what am i looking for when checking the tank and cone or conicle filters? and what are you referring to when u say conicle filter. and thanks shelby! i will check for jumpy voltage tomorrow on my day off, what would be the best process to check for jumpy voltage? and i feel like the fuel millage is horrible. i unplugged the tps nose switch and it is definitely more derivable now to where i can actually boost somewhat and its not going bah bah bah bah under acceleration but its still lagging at times and i think is possibly just hiding the issue Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
importwarrior Posted June 6, 2013 Report Share Posted June 6, 2013 (edited) http://www.starquest...howtopic=132001 pics 5 and 6 show cone conicle pre fuel pump filter.check it again. on my 87 i had i cleaned it and it stillcaught more junk from the tank. had to clean it again. Edited June 6, 2013 by importwarrior Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2fast2six Posted June 7, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2013 im worried im getting bad compression under boost or that either my intake or exhaust valves arent seating right.... would one of those cause my problem? i sure hope not Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2fast2six Posted June 7, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2013 still trying to figure out how to test for jumpy voltage at the coil.. for a bad ignition switch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2fast2six Posted June 8, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 8, 2013 i heard bad knock boxes could do this... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2fast2six Posted June 9, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 9, 2013 so i cleaned the ground for the knock box and i had to pull out my o2 sensor and it ran a little better and i had to put in the wideband sensor in to see if i was running lean or rich and im running really rich at about 8 psi or so.. an when it hits 10 on wideband is when it wants to act up Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patra_is_here Posted June 12, 2013 Report Share Posted June 12, 2013 (edited) damn that's really rich. so, i'm still leaning towards your car having an air metering issue. here's what a I want you to try. get to your air flow meter. the front has basically two sections, it's got the rectangle metered section with the honeycomb in front of it, and theres the bypass section above it. take a strip of half inch masking tape and tape off a half inch of the honeycomb. basically you're going to be blocking some of the air that would flow into the metered section, and force the air flow meter to read less air, which should lean out your mixture. hook everything back up and see if you can go for a drive and see if the wideband reads a different amount than it did previously. if so, then you know you have a metering issue. if not, then it's something else. take a picture of your tape application so I can see how you did it to make sure it was as I explained. Edited June 12, 2013 by patra_is_here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shelby Posted June 13, 2013 Report Share Posted June 13, 2013 so i cleaned the ground for the knock box and i had to pull out my o2 sensor and it ran a little better and i had to put in the wideband sensor in to see if i was running lean or rich and im running really rich at about 8 psi or so.. an when it hits 10 on wideband is when it wants to act up i'm going out on a limb here and guess your still TBi,, if so all you did was place the oem ecu in open loop and it will run 10 or richer on a wide band,, the ecu has to have the oem 02 sensor in place and working Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2fast2six Posted June 13, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 13, 2013 ok patra_is_here i will try that when i get home and shelby the car was barely drivable with the 02 sensor in. and it still ran 10's on wide band with the 02 installed .. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shelby Posted June 13, 2013 Report Share Posted June 13, 2013 my problem was a clogged pre fuel pump filter. replaced it and car runs great. see heres the part that makes no sense , in one reply the cars running great then it's pig rich at some point your gona have to break down and do some reading esp the section in the FSM fuel chaptor about How things work and then do some step by step trouble shooting Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2fast2six Posted June 13, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 13, 2013 yes shelby cuz the car didnt run good then i replaced a bunch of parts and the car ran really good then i got this intermient problem where its running rich under boost.. car idels really nice, tach isent jumping around wideband is constant at 13.5 ish . the car actually drives really good under normal driving unless i get into boost. ive read the electrical section and ive read the fuel section multiple times and im not getting anywhere with it. in one of my past posts the car was acting up under boost and then i shut it off while driving and turned it back on and the car ran great and pulled hard. car sat over night and ran like crap again the next day. at one point the car wouldnt start and i was getting fuel all the way to my turbo and i was pulling the plugs and swapping in new ones, thats when i replaced the coil and wires and tps and fuel pump and cts and new 02 sensor. it will boost till i hit about 10.3 on wideband then it wants to act up. ive been kind of having a semi laggy tach as well Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shelby Posted June 16, 2013 Report Share Posted June 16, 2013 10 :1 air fuel is TOO rich you may be blowing out plugs , also wet plugs can lower exh temps so much that the 02 sensor and wide band will lie to you , it'll be saying lean and actualy be too rich all i'm saying is you can't always belief every thing the meters are saying Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StarquestRescue Posted June 17, 2013 Report Share Posted June 17, 2013 The ecu abandons 02 correction about 800 hz of air flow. That is about 3-4 psi on stock size injectors. Low tens are two rich for the stock ignition. Lots of factors here like weather, amount of boost, timing ect will effect the exact point of misfire. Once the misfire starts it will skew the wide band reading. It would be helpful to verify the size of the injectors. Stock would be a L and M for 87-89. After market should be 650-950. Consider having them cleaned and flowed. Anything bigger than that requires a tuning system. A boost leak will make the car run rich, as the airflow meter is metering air that never gets to the engine. Some years ago a guy had a wire break of his knock sensor, that caused the igniter to pull 8* of timing. Just enough to induce a misfire. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caliber308 Posted June 24, 2013 Report Share Posted June 24, 2013 (edited) so you do away with the factory 02 sensor and then wonder if the ecu is in open loop hum that wide band sensor ain't gona last long in the oem 02's position , too hot for ityou want it about 12-14" down the down pipe just above the turn More like 36 inches downstream from the Turbo outlet You can take Shelbys word for it, or go to AEMs website to see where you should install the Wideband Sensor when it comes to our Turbocharged cars. Here it is:Mount the Wideband O-2 Sensor at least 18 inches downstream from the exhaust port. Now, the following information is important....... ON TURBOCHARGED ENGINES THE UEGO SENSOR MUST BE INSTALLED AT LEAST 36 INCHES OR MORE DOWNSTREAM OF THE EXHAUST PORT. I didn't make this up...It's in the AEM UEGO installation instructions Bill Edited June 24, 2013 by Caliber308 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caliber308 Posted June 24, 2013 Report Share Posted June 24, 2013 (edited) it will boost till i hit about 10.3 on wideband then it wants to act up. DUH!!! Your drowning your engine with fuel at10.3 afr. What size Fuel Injectors are you running? Fuel Pressure at WOT? Do you have a way to adjust the Air/Fuel ratio (MAF-T or the like)? Bill Edited June 24, 2013 by Caliber308 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2fast2six Posted June 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2013 stock injectors, stock turbo, 2.5" intake hard pipe kit. 3" exhaust. fuel pressure sending unit i had stopped working so gauge reads nothing. stock mas air flow sensor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shelby Posted June 25, 2013 Report Share Posted June 25, 2013 stock injectors, stock turbo, 2.5" intake hard pipe kit. 3" exhaust. fuel pressure sending unit i had stopped working so gauge reads nothing. stock mas air flow sensor. what do you do if the first screw driver you grab is broken , you reach for another,,lots of things to making a fuel inj system perform properly one of the major things to know is fuel pressure at times of load, meaning under boost on the road driveing,, so you need to temp rig up a pressure gauge and mount it so you can see the reading while driving undewr full load on the road,,this isn't some thing that needs to stay on the car but , it's imposible to get the system running properly with out having this information actualy a perm mounted fuel pressure gauge is useless and of no value as a tuneing device unless it can be seen while driving Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2fast2six Posted June 29, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 29, 2013 pulled out my knock sensor and under the plastic wire covering the black wire of the 2 wires was completly broken.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shelby Posted June 30, 2013 Report Share Posted June 30, 2013 pulled out my knock sensor and under the plastic wire covering the black wire of the 2 wires was completly broken.... that'll deff cause problems , ah the things we find on 20 some thing cars Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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