Squrlsquash Posted March 29, 2013 Report Share Posted March 29, 2013 (edited) Been trying to get my 87 Fatty to a driveable state since i bought it-Mechanically the drivetrain is sound, just need to work out some electrical issues-Will keep posting my problems until you guys get fed up helping To-Do List: -Electrical problems to be tackled over the coming weeks as i will once again have a place to work on my Conquest Electrical dilemmas - the indicators dont work properly- when i turn on the left ones, they stay on; when i turn on the right indicators they blink - but the voltmeter drops severely on each click - also the rev counter drops to zero -First order is to clean contacts and order new fusible links -I have good battery contacts -Also have a parasitic draw of some kind, suspect it might be involved with the TEP radiator fan relay kit i installed (draw occuring sometime after installation [sparks when connecting + disconnecting batt leads]) -Rewire fans- remove / disconnect oem fan wiring? may be shorting or causing draw -Fans stay on full blast whole time- dont switch on/off with temp change (will post pics of wiring. followed instructions) -Replace flasher unit (hazards work fine) but still have left indicator messing with the rev counter (will check if hazards do as well, can't recall) -Brakes -ABS Delete (rear brakes vibrate badly when brakes applied, not warped rotors) -Braided Brake Lines -Check brakes - slotted rotors - sticky pads? -Lightweight Water pump pulley- belt squealing (belt only goes from crank, water pump, alt) Have 2 oem pulleys, both squeal in different ways (new alt, new belt, and no squealing before) Maybe the new alt? has a painted shiny pully vs. old metal one -Trans rear seal (front seal done already) Any tips on this project? Unbolt driveshaft (paint for orientation) pull + replace seal? any common issues to lookout for? -Diff seal(s)? unsure of cond, no noticeable leaking like the trans - once new seals are in, switching to RP 85-90 MTFluid (w/ friction mod) for trans and diff -***Seats***: I have a sparco fighter seat- with the sparco slider- i wanted to confirm that this is the correct base for the star/quest floor pattern. Anyone have experience with different seats and have suggestions?http://www.horsepowe...41/-/Mitsubishi also foundhttp://www.grounddyn...ct-p/500870.htm Any problems fitting buckets? - any difference between these two base mounts besides cost? $80 vs. $110 -Solved issues-Engine problems sorted- popped a newish (4k mi) rebuilt motor in-Transmission problems sorted, turns out the shifter wasnt properly bolted in by the previous owner. a bit of elbow grease sorted out another surprise left for me with the car. PS - Has anyone in SoCal got a junk automatic transmission? From a starquest preferably- Have to ask, taking Auto Trans Rebuilding this semester Thanks in advanceAaron Edited January 31, 2014 by Squrlsquash Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MotoCam360 Posted March 29, 2013 Report Share Posted March 29, 2013 I've successfully pulled and reinstalled the G54B with 5spd tranny attached without removing anything.... jack the car up high. lift the motor/tranny assembly super high, and tip the whole assembly right in. There are certainly other (maybe easier) ways to do this too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squrlsquash Posted March 29, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2013 yeah, didnt want to ding up new alum radiator so i decided to pull everything out, ever pulled one without pulling the trans? once i pull the engine id still have to roll it back into garage to park it, would be hard while keeping the trans held up with a jack, it would just fall down on its own, correct? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmyers151 Posted March 29, 2013 Report Share Posted March 29, 2013 Unbolt the bellhousing bolts, remove the starter and leave the trans in place, support it with a jack stand. Don't forget about removing the clutch dust cover if you're working with a manual trans. I've left a few on, very frustrating. Best way to pull the motor out the top is to unbolt the engine mounts from the crossmember, jack it up to get clearance, then rock the engine back and forth gently, while pulling forward. The engine will pop off the input shaft, the trans will fall a short distance onto the jack stand, and you're home free. It's nice having a second set of hands around to help out. Also, be sure to remove the hood if you haven't already. Makes everything many much better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squrlsquash Posted March 29, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2013 sounds good, starter is out, and removing the hood now, just waiting for extra hands problem is that i live in suburbia in the meantime and only have a 1.5 car garage to play with - have to push the car halfway into the street to get the lift in front of it. will tie a rope around the trans to hold it up or something so i can push the car back into the garage tonight thanks for the inputAaron 5 speeds are a bit like steering racks for me, when they have to come out... help is nowhere to be found tactical turtleneck, or the tactalneck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wrngwae Posted March 29, 2013 Report Share Posted March 29, 2013 (edited) Unbolt the bellhousing bolts, remove the starter and leave the trans in place, support it with a jack stand. Don't forget about removing the clutch dust cover if you're working with a manual trans. I've left a few on, very frustrating. ^^^^^^^ THIS^^^^^^^^ I have sat there wiggling and yanking on the motor, pry bars ect...... its amazing what a little piece of tin will do you your day ... its at the very botom of the trans with 2 bolts in the trans and 2 bolts along the oil pan of the motor. you kinda feel stupid when you find this out even after you have pulled that same motor a few times........ HUH,,, thought i got that....... DIRTY ROTTEN,,,,,,,@#&()&&*^&$&*$@*(& you get the point. Edited March 29, 2013 by wrngwae Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squrlsquash Posted March 29, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2013 yeah- it makes fitting the sump annoying as well - mines all mangled up, probably left on during a few engine pulls Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
conquest9113 Posted March 29, 2013 Report Share Posted March 29, 2013 just use a rope and run it through the bolt holes on the trani and tie it up to some thing on the fire wall.so it's off the ground so u can move it where u want it . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dad Posted March 31, 2013 Report Share Posted March 31, 2013 (edited) Just dropped one in, Tranny and engine together. http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt101/Rikert/redengine.jpg Edited March 31, 2013 by Dad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
conquest9113 Posted March 31, 2013 Report Share Posted March 31, 2013 why does every one like the black block look i think it's to dark for seeing leaks and what not . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dad Posted March 31, 2013 Report Share Posted March 31, 2013 Build it so there are no leaks !! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squrlsquash Posted March 31, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 31, 2013 (edited) ok - will lift transunbolt from enginesupport trans with rope+wood blocksyank engineswap stock flywheel (<- any reason to go have balanced? rest of new engine was balanced during build)complete heart transplantgo have beers anything ive missed? thanks for the helpAaron Edited March 31, 2013 by Squrlsquash Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JAinsworth Posted March 31, 2013 Report Share Posted March 31, 2013 I didn't see it asked, but are both engines from manual transmission cars or do you have and auto and a manual tranny engines? Dad can jump in and explain the difference between the two engine combinations. I don't recall at the moment.Jimmy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dad Posted April 1, 2013 Report Share Posted April 1, 2013 I'd leave the tranny in if it's an Auto. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
conquest9113 Posted April 1, 2013 Report Share Posted April 1, 2013 <p>http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/uploads/profile/photo-924.jpg?_r=0Membershttp://www.starquestclub.com/forum/public/style_images/master/bullet_black.pnghttp://www.starquestclub.com/forum/public/style_images/master/bullet_black.pnghttp://www.starquestclub.com/forum/public/style_images/master/bullet_black.pnghttp://www.starquestclub.com/forum/public/style_images/master/bullet_black.png7,068 postsGender:MaleLocation:Niles,OhioInterests:One stock and one not!87 White Quest87 ShetlandModel:ConquestPosted Today, 03:55 PMBuild it so there are no leaks !! lol @dad that works for sure lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squrlsquash Posted April 1, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 1, 2013 its a manual no reason to pop it out just didn't think if the rope tying solution - have to be able to move car in between pull + swap ... my extra hands up and moved to sweden, anybody not busy this weekend? thanks for the tip! ive been building mine to leak for some time :/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squrlsquash Posted April 1, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 1, 2013 (edited) empty Edited January 31, 2014 by Squrlsquash Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squrlsquash Posted April 1, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 1, 2013 update on progress (or lack thereof) tried to pull off hood3 bolts pop out just fine, hood supported to keep them lined up go to last one and it just spins in place tried pulling with plyers assuming that the threads stripped, no luck any ideas?just been stonewalled at each and every step of this so called "near ready for daily driving" car - what i was told by the seller Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmyers151 Posted April 2, 2013 Report Share Posted April 2, 2013 Use a small pry bar or flat head screwdriver to put outward pressure on the bolt while you turn it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
starquestJOE Posted April 2, 2013 Report Share Posted April 2, 2013 Make sure remove the crank pulley. It will hit the rad support and bend it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dad Posted April 2, 2013 Report Share Posted April 2, 2013 Make sure remove the crank pulley. It will hit the rad support and bend it Didn't on ours in the pic, and it's a fresh paint job Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
conquestador89 Posted April 5, 2013 Report Share Posted April 5, 2013 (edited) where in sd are you @??maybe I can lend a hand if your in the area Edited April 5, 2013 by conquestador89 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squrlsquash Posted April 6, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2013 thank you gentlemen http://i1297.photobucket.com/albums/ag24/Squrlsquash/IMG_1685_zpsd8d4b7db.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squrlsquash Posted April 9, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 9, 2013 i have a few issues and was hoping i could get some pointers, or pointed in the right direction Pulled the engine, now to the next issue-not sure where to post stupid questions, wont let me start topics in newb forum Right now, i have the old engine - with the flywheel on it - and the new engine with a flex plate problem #1cant get flywheel bolts out, using air impact gun @125 psi with no luck- looked around a bit online. will try torch next (being mindful of main seals) problem #2read that there is a part on the crank/flex plate of the auto setup that will break and cause issues if not removed first? problem #3as you can see in the above pic, there is quite alot of trans fluid in the bell housing (as well as fluid leaking from the rear of the trans)any tips or threads on replacing transmission seals? thanks gentlemenAaron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dad Posted April 9, 2013 Report Share Posted April 9, 2013 1-Better impact with a 6 point socket 2- pilot bushing in the end of the crank from the automatic car needs removed before you put the 5 speed flywheel on. 3- good write up here... http://starquest.i-x.net/viewtopic.php?t=980 Dad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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