MasterVivi Posted January 30, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2013 Anyone recommend a certain brand down pipe? Links are welcomed and appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MasterVivi Posted January 30, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2013 Anyone recommend a certain brand down pipe? Links are welcomed and appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jszucs Posted January 30, 2013 Report Share Posted January 30, 2013 I don't know if there are any self avalable 2.5" downpipes.... You might find one here, or on Ebay, or you might just want to find a mufler shop with a 2.5" mandral bender, take them your stock precat and have them make one that matches up with the right flanges, or take them the whole car and have them fab one up. More then likely there going to need to install your cat anyways, so do it all at once. The gutted precat will work, but like said it's prety thick metal so it can heat soak, and it's not going to be as good as a down pipe, due to turbulace from it just opeing up into a hallow cavity rather then a nice mandral bent pipe for the exaust to flow though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MasterVivi Posted January 30, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2013 I figured out why it wasn't building boost.... The ring that goes around the turbo inlet was INSIDE the turbo. It slipped off the boot and went into the turbo. It builds boost now and runs like a beast. I was going to install my new ported vacuum switch today and guess what... A fellow school member touched my car and tried doing it himself without permission for some effing reason and he broke it. 65 bucks, and another week of waiting. EFF that! My cat should come next week, and I'll install all of my fuel filters that week too. I'm going to try and buy new injector clips as well. All is going well now. I'm going to need to replace my hydraulic lifters at some point, but I'm going to try using "restore" first, to see if it nukes the buildup inside them. Without replacing them the engine clicks loudly, though it's not too priority. Thanks for all the help guys. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ucw458 Posted January 30, 2013 Report Share Posted January 30, 2013 The plastic vac valve that screws into the intake isn't really needed for smog. It's only purpose is to prevent the charcoal canister from purging when the engine is cold. That wont affect a smog test. You can just bypass it and plug the hole in the intake. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jszucs Posted January 30, 2013 Report Share Posted January 30, 2013 (edited) Wait what ring around the turbo inlet? Are you talking the accordian hose from the air can to the turbo was inside? Sounds like your making progress. Hydrolic lifters? are you sure? + lets just say that cleaner does work, where is the junk it cleans out going? into your motor... not so good..... Are you sure they are not mechanical slippers and just need adjustment? Maybe not getting good oil flow? And just because the turbo is working does not mean to go beating on it just yet.... your making progress now, lets not blow something up before we got everything else sorted out and maybe something to monitor what's going on a bit better (especialy if you got ticking right now) Edited January 30, 2013 by jszucs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MasterVivi Posted January 30, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2013 It's ticking from the lifters. There are no jet valves, they've been removed by the previous owner. The lifts are hydraulic, and they don't fill up all the way, due to someone not changing the oil often enough. I'll need to replace them to get rid of the ticking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spadey Posted January 31, 2013 Report Share Posted January 31, 2013 You can collapse your lifters and flush them out in diesel fuel to get rid of all the stuff in thembthere are several post on here on how to clean them out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue Posted January 31, 2013 Report Share Posted January 31, 2013 You can collapse your lifters and flush them out in diesel fuel to get rid of all the stuff in thembthere are several post on here on how to clean them out.The same for most hydraulic lifters. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MasterVivi Posted January 31, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2013 Problems... Leesfer thinks my wastegate might be defective. I was driving around, and suddenly I hear a loud WHOOSH. I lose power, and cannot gain power. The pipe over the turbo came off, the vacuum hose from the bov came off, and my coolant overflowed through the overflow pipe. Okay, cool. Now, the boost was building and continuously releasing. I went up a large hill on my way to work, and it just hissed all the way up, like very loud air pushing out, and when I finally made it up the hill, the car just died. It started up fine, but when I build boost again, the noise could be heard, and a loss of power. Leesfer thinks my wastegate might be stuck open, but it's not stuck open. It is closed and very hard to open when the car is off. When the car is running, it might be different. Any ideas, guys? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue Posted January 31, 2013 Report Share Posted January 31, 2013 Problems... Leesfer thinks my wastegate might be defective. I was driving around, and suddenly I hear a loud WHOOSH. I lose power, and cannot gain power. The pipe over the turbo came off, the vacuum hose from the bov came off, and my coolant overflowed through the overflow pipe. Okay, cool. Now, the boost was building and continuously releasing. I went up a large hill on my way to work, and it just hissed all the way up, like very loud air pushing out, and when I finally made it up the hill, the car just died. It started up fine, but when I build boost again, the noise could be heard, and a loss of power. Leesfer thinks my wastegate might be stuck open, but it's not stuck open. It is closed and very hard to open when the car is off. When the car is running, it might be different. Any ideas, guys?Sounds like your bov might have crapped out. Especially with the "woosh" noise. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jszucs Posted January 31, 2013 Report Share Posted January 31, 2013 well is your BOV a pusher or puller type? and where is it tied into? One need VAC one needs boost. If your building good boost your WG is ether stuck closed or working. Do you have a real boost gage yet so we konw if it's over boosting? Maybe it is and going into boost cut. Have you tried to disable the BOV or better yet remove from inline? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MasterVivi Posted January 31, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2013 I figured out the problem, with Leesfer's help. Thanks guys. My ovcp pipe going to the throttle body was a little loose. Not enough to notice, but enough to move when you moved it, and I tightened it up and it's all going well. I'm going to order a new boost gauge right now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MasterVivi Posted February 22, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2013 Huge update. Rewired the engine coolant temp sensor, and it was hooked up to the wrong wire in the first place, that got it not running so rich. Finally installed the new ported vacuum switch, and hooked up the vacuum lines. Replaced the TPS, but am still having issues that I thought were caused by the tps. It was good to replace the tps though, since it was WAY off standard. (3.1 instead of 0.48-0.52) (i still have my old one, it's usable still) Now I have this problem. My car is revving by itself, and when I let go of the gas, it won't stop revving. I think its my idle speed control valve, it's probably dirty or needs replacing. What do you guys think?I'm going to take apart my throttle body and clean it and replace gaskets, and do the same to my idle speed control valve. Any suggestions? My car is also jerky when I step on the gas, or let go of the gas. My car also has a huge kickback when I'm accelerating, like it drops the engine's power completely for a second and then goes back up, so it jerks me back when I accelerate, but that doesn't happen all the time.. I got all new tires, brand new, so I'm not getting the violent shaking I was getting before, but I can tell it's still there. I've jacked the car up, and the tires have no up and down play, so might it be the INNER tie rods from the rear? Any suspension specialists I can talk to on this forum? I'd love to post more, but I have to start work as I write this, so that's it for now. All help is appreciated, and all patience is appreciated. I've come a long way with this vehicle, and I've learned so much from school and my trials. I've done all the work on the car myself, and everything has been wrong with it. Let me know what you guys think might be causing the problems, maybe I'm wrong about the idle speed control valve, but I think because of what it's doing, it's right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Convette Posted February 22, 2013 Report Share Posted February 22, 2013 Dont know about most of the other stuff, but I would replace your throttle spring. I had mine brake one time doing doe nutz and it wasnt awsome. Had to pull it back up from the floor, while spinning. lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MasterVivi Posted February 22, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2013 Alright, thanks man, all help is appreciated. I'll check out the condition of all the throttle parts as soon as I get the gaskets ordered. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89PalermoSHP Posted February 23, 2013 Report Share Posted February 23, 2013 No such thing as an idle speed control valve. When are you going to start learning and stop talking out of your rear? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SOTTY Posted February 23, 2013 Report Share Posted February 23, 2013 No such thing as an idle speed control valve. When are you going to start learning and stop talking out of your rear?x2 , 14 pages of verbal diarrhea and in a section of this website it doesn't belong in , look man take your car to the guy in Torrace .C.a who is as popular as a fart in a space suit around here but he'll fix your damn car for you and save us from reading about it , if your stuck for parts contact me via P.M but frankly your car isn't worth repairing . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue Posted February 24, 2013 Report Share Posted February 24, 2013 Wow...Kid, go read the FSM. You can save this car if you want to. But not without knowledge. Reread this thread, and use the advice given. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MasterVivi Posted February 24, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2013 I'm only going off what my teacher said. I'm sure there is another word for it, but it controls air flow during idle. How about you get off my thread and save me from your negative thoughts. And start learning? Look at me then, and now. If you don't see progress, you're the one who needs get your HEAD out of your rear, because all I ever read is you talking s***. Remove the s*** from your throat and speak again, if you have something helpful to say. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MasterVivi Posted February 24, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2013 After driving today, I think it just might be my throttle cable, because my pedal kept getting stuck and revving to 4k when I was trying to shift. It was scarryyy!! Also, I'm trying/have been trying to learn. In a knowledge versus time basis, I bet I know way more than you ever knew when you were as fresh into the car game as I, so just lend some advice, don't throw me down and say my car isn't worth saving. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shelby Posted February 24, 2013 Report Share Posted February 24, 2013 exactly what i was gona tell you,,your throdle cable is most likely TOO tight ,, it has to have slack in it , also the ecu controls idle rpm by reading VOLTAGE signals and voltage signals only , base idle is set manualy ( with ISC idle speed control motor ) unplug'd some advice i have given others READ the begining chaptor in the fuel section , it explains what each part does and how it relates to the other sub systems , once you know what parts to the system there is,, and know what each does you will be able to understand what the manual is telling you to do ,, also there is a set procedure for adjusting the sensors and voltage control devices,, they MUST be set in proper order , procedures for this are in the FAQ,,but if you do not know what is what you'l only get lost , read the entire thread not just the main post none of this is hard, it's just different from any thing else you may have work'd on or read about Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MasterVivi Posted February 24, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2013 Thank you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jszucs Posted February 26, 2013 Report Share Posted February 26, 2013 (edited) I'm only going off what my teacher said. I'm sure there is another word for it, but it controls air flow during idle.How about you get off my thread and save me from your negative thoughts. And start learning? Look at me then, and now. If you don't see progress, you're the one who needs get your HEAD out of your rear, because all I ever read is you talking s***. Remove the s*** from your throat and speak again, if you have something helpful to say. First off..... STOP LISTENING TO YOUR TEACHER. Atleast for this car. Next..... yes I have seen some progress, but you still don't listen to us. And have not tackled the major issues at hand (before you should even move the car) It's not uncomon to get a car like this and lay it up for 2-10 years fixing everything correctly before it's "driveable" for just someone tinkering in there free time. You still have simple issues occuring (like the throttel cable) how many other major issues exist in the car? Have the trans, rear, powerstearing, breaks, clutch all got flushed out, and fresh fluid even? Gown through the rest of the new owners and FAQ sections and done it all? Edited February 26, 2013 by jszucs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IntercooledFlatty Posted February 26, 2013 Report Share Posted February 26, 2013 x2 , 14 pages of verbal diarrhea and in a section of this website it doesn't belong in , look man take your car to the guy in Torrace .C.a who is as popular as a fart in a space suit around here but he'll fix your damn car for you and save us from reading about it , if your stuck for parts contact me via P.M but frankly your car isn't worth repairing .http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s263/aiche_photos/juss%20pics/dead_toad-744658.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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