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Pre-Fuel pump filter ideas?

zactek

By zactek,
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zactek Newbie

zactek

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Hey all, I'm about to change my Walbro GSL392 pump (because of a no-start condition) and was wondering what filter can use before the new fuel pump (in the hose between the top of the tank to fuel pump). I know I can use a lo-pressure one, but can't seem to find any small enough to splice in-line that can hold the volume. Any ideas?

 

Thanks a lot, Zack K.

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C300 Newbie

C300

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I used a fram G-3 clear filter. can get them at any parts store or walmart. i didn't shorten my hose, just cut it and stuck the filter in there. there's a picture of it in my gallery. good luck
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ucw458 Grand Master

ucw458

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No pre-filter is needed. Just make sure the strainer in the tank is in good shape.

 

Some on here will argue the need for a pre-filter but when is the last time you saw one on any OEM setup? That's because too much filtering before the pump will cause cavitation in the pump and low fuel flow.

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C300 Newbie

C300

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ucw458- i wish i had your fuel tank ! seems all the cars i've had besides the new one in '88 came from cheep people who never filled the tank. and i'm never taking one apart again... i just change the filter when the pump starts whining.

i think the rust dust is prematurely wearing my injectors. but no good tanks for the taking.

Edited by C300
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zactek Newbie

zactek

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No pre-filter is needed. Just make sure the strainer in the tank is in good shape.

 

Some on here will argue the need for a pre-filter but when is the last time you saw one on any OEM setup? That's because too much filtering before the pump will cause cavitation in the pump and low fuel flow.

 

I've never had a pre-filter since 1997, and I had a Bosch pump and a Walbro before (neither failed because of rust, just age) I only use a Rusell pro filter instead of the stock one with braided lines in the engine compartment and the stock in-tank one. The last time i dropped the tank, there was no sign of rust at all. A friend suggested I use one, even tho I never had a problem, so maybe I'll continue not having one.....Thanks for the input!

 

Zack K.

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TsTKl Newbie

TsTKl

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No pre-filter is needed. Just make sure the strainer in the tank is in good shape.

 

Some on here will argue the need for a pre-filter but when is the last time you saw one on any OEM setup? That's because too much filtering before the pump will cause cavitation in the pump and low fuel flow.

 

Every single car made in the 90's or newer. those socks that are on all in tank fuel pumps are filters.

 

Personally I have a 10 micron? fuel filter before my aeromotive a1000 fuel pump and a 100 micron? after, I know its a factor of 10 less before than after but can't remeber what. It was like 90 bucks from summit and its a -10an inline, just like the aeromotive.

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Shelby Newbie

Shelby

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ok heres the real deal maybe an inline filter ahead of the pump is not need'd on EVERY car but if the tank is clear then the filter will cause no detrimental problems and if the tank has trash changeing it every once in a while is no big deal ,so the end result is if

it don't hurt and is an extra margin of safty why not use one

 

when the car was brand new mtis install'd 2 filters so why not use 2 after the car is 20 + yrs old

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StarquestRescue Newbie

StarquestRescue

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What about the air pocket that will be in carb style filter before the pump? You hit a bump that air pocket goes through the pump, only to be replaced by another air pocket. I saw that on a friend's car, we did not like it. I can't see how that's good for the pump or fuel pressure stability.
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ucw458 Grand Master

ucw458

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Every single car made in the 90's or newer. those socks that are on all in tank fuel pumps are filters.

 

Those "socks" are merely strainers not filters. If they were filters then they would clog long before the filter on the frame. Only time I've ever had to replace one on a newer car was when I changed the pump.

 

when the car was brand new mtis install'd 2 filters so why not use 2 after the car is 20 + yrs old

 

Those were both strainers not filters.

 

 

 

Besides pumping through a screen, which only shows if crud is in the tank, how can one know if the tank is rusty, or needs re-coating?

 

Pull the pump pickup out. You can access it from inside the trunk. Then use a small mirror and flashlight to check the inside of the tank. It's best to do this when you have 1/4 tank or less. That way you can see better.

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StarquestRescue Newbie

StarquestRescue

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You pull the pick up out of the tank, which can be done in the car. Shine a bright light in it and take a look. Works best if the tank is nearly empty. Have a new in tank filter ready, you might as well put one on while the pick up is out.

 

Tips, clean the dirt from around the outside of the pick up. Use a good screw driver, not a wore out one. if the screw are tight use a vice grip on the screw head and apply force to the vice grip and screwdriver at the same time.

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Caliber308 Collaborator

Caliber308

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I run a inline filter before the Walbro 392....No problems here for 8 years. It is a Wix Part no 33278, you can't buy them anymore....Discontinued. But i'm sure you can find something similar. If you go to Trances site and look in the SOS Manuals, you will see a picture of the one I have installed.

 

Bill

Edited by Caliber308
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Elkidmino Newbie

Elkidmino

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C300 and Cal have the right idea; cheap and effective. I ran one exactly like this on my car with MPI and there were no fuel starvation issues, air pockets, etc. Buy the filter for a 3/8" hose, two clamps, and cut the suction hose in my middle, insert filter with arrow pointing in the flow direction (into the pump) and you're done.
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Caliber308 Collaborator

Caliber308

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C300 and Cal have the right idea; cheap and effective. I ran one exactly like this on my car with MPI and there were no fuel starvation issues, air pockets, etc. Buy the filter for a 3/8" hose, two clamps, and cut the suction hose in my middle, insert filter with arrow pointing in the flow direction (into the pump) and you're done.

 

Excellent information!!!! On a personal note: Any member who tells you NOT to install a inline Fuel Filter prior to the Aftermarket Fuel Pump must work for, or has stock in the Aftermarket Fuel Pump companies that supply them for our cars ;) After all.....What if the In-tank filter has, or creates a leak from corrosion over time?( Especially, if it has not been replaced in over 20 plus years). Then, the inline Fuel Filter will catch any crap coming up from the Fuel Tank. Do you need it? Maybe not, if your Sock Fuel Filter is new. But, in my way of thinking, it is better to have a inline fuel filter before the Fuel Pump installed than having to replace a expensive Aftermarket Fuel Pump if s..t goes wrong.

 

P.S. Here is the part no. for the in tank fuel filter:MB129890. Online Mitsubishi dealers still carry them.

 

 

Bill

Edited by Caliber308
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Elkidmino Newbie

Elkidmino

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^^ lol funny story; I used to work for Denso in the fuel pump division testing and bench marking in-tank and mechanical fuel pumps. Even our test rigs required us to use filters before the pumps to get the correct pressure drop across the filter to the inlet of the pump. It doesn't matter if it's a vane or geared pump, a filter is required and an engineering requirement before a fuel pump inlet.
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Metric-man Newbie

Metric-man

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The tank filter sock is around 10 micron but it is plastic ,

and it suffers from neglect like the rest of the fuel sytem,

and it collects sludge build up from the alcohol enriched mixtures

the EPA and ARB it requires the fuel companies to produce,

there are a few conical inline filters but they are plastic also.

 

The are a few after market designs that offer a reusable /washable screen that can flow 900 GPH

 

http://oi49.tinypic.com/35aovv4.jpghttp://oi45.tinypic.com/2lo1yya.jpg

 

The OEM fuel pump had a pulsation dampner attached to the end of the pump,

but many pumps since the late 80's have

not used a dampner because the fuel pumps have gained efficiency

though brushless motors.

Edited by Metric-man
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C300 Newbie

C300

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Elkidmino is correct in that the pre-pump strainer or filter acts as a damper of sorts. like he said, pressure drop, different pressures going to the pump when pulling "G's" around corners. if there is no filter or strainer, then there's a damper before the pump, like on Porcshes. filters are cheeper and double as good insurance for expensive pumps. this car sends exess gas back to the tank, helping with vapor lock on hot starts. the manual for K-tronic machanical injection states that the damper is for Both hot starts and reducing surging/pressure spikes. it's more important on a machanical set up... I like the clear fram filters. G3 is 3/8" size and fits right in our pre pump hose. can do it through the access panel in the trunk in no time. pull the hose off both ends. measure twice, cut and stick the hoses on each end. stick it back on. no problem.

 

i will be getting my tank cleaned sooner than later :-)

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