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No oil pressure...rebuilt engine


strang3majik
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Well.....update....

 

I pulled it all apart and replaced the gasket with the tear drop one and filled the oil pump with oil...worked the gears backwards til it was pouring out the bottom...I worked it both ways and it moved oil nicely...filled it up to the top again...installed it...put the engine back together.

 

Then I removed the filter, stuck a hose on the oil filter threads and put oil in there til it wouldn't go anymore, then filled the filter as much as I could and put it on.

 

Hooked a battery up...cranked it for about a minute, still nothing registering on the gauge...removed the filter, it hardly had any oil in it.

 

 

I gave up for tonight since its late and cranking the engine over is rather loud for the wee hours of the morning...but tomorrow I'll go back at it.

 

 

 

 

But, how long should I be cranking it til it registers on the gauge? Especially when I filled all that with oil? Its also a quart over full right now.

 

 

 

 

Also, as hard as it was to get that oil pump off the pickup o-ring...I have a feeling its the right one...lol I was getting quite ticked at it trying to get it off there.

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The best place to prime the pump, besides assembly, is through the galley plug noted earlier... that is a direct shot to the oil pump. Having your pan over full does nothing for priming the pump.

 

Remove the spark plugs, disconnect the injectors, and take off the valve cover so you can visually see the oil flowing out the valve train. You'll see it for sure... it flows FAST. BTW, it also doesn't drain very well at the back of the head so if you've got the car jacked up in the front... it will surely overflow with the valve cover off.

 

It will take some cranking, up to 5 mins or more sometimes... be careful to not hold the ignition down too long and over heat your starter. Pulse the starter, and give it cool down times. Pulling the spark plugs out reduces the wear on the starter and allows the engine to spin faster. With the valve cover off you will definitely hear the oil flowing through the galleys for the first time.

 

-Robert

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^^^Thank you. I will do that first thing when I wake up...lol But, sounds like a good plan, and good to know it can take a while as well.

 

Hopefully she'll build up some oil pressure! :)

 

Thanks again Robert. Dying to drive a Quest again :/

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^Also very slow to register loss of oil pressure :/

 

You'll have thrown a rod...up through the hood, came back smacked the windshield and cracked it, tumbled up into the air, bounced off the road into traffic, into someone elses windshield, they'll swerve and cause a 15 car pileup behind......

 

by this point the gauge would start to react...lol

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^^^^^ What he said, I would put in a mech gauge even temporary,,, to see if it's getting pressure. that would beat 5 mins of cranking the engine over.... should register in about 20 seconds if it picks up oil.

 

 

 

Do you have the oil pump woodruf key installed ????

 

Dad

Edited by Dad
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Well...after about 10 minutes of cranking starting and stopping to let the starter cool...nothing registered on the gauge. The head is full of oil and the cam looks well lubed and it looked like oil was flowing...

 

I even pulled the plug out of the side and filled it with some 80w gear oil.

 

All that, still nothing on the gauge, but, I switched senders when I had the motor apart since the other was leaking, so I figured this one was bad. As I said, head looked oil.

 

Hooked everything back up, started it for a brief second...still tapping. I shut it right down.

 

 

 

I don't know why or whats going on. I'm about to give up. I don't understand as it had excellent oil pressure before I took it apart.

 

 

And, Dad, what is that? I put back on everything I removed, so, nothing should be different.

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Took that plug out (on the side of the block by the timing cover) and cranked it...nothing came out of it.

 

 

 

I don't know what to do. I have no more money to sink into this thing, and I don't even know what to put money towards.

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There should be a metal ring that you had to press into the upper balance shaft hole on the face of the block. This sleeve blocks the oil passages that run to that balance shaft. without that sleeve and without a balance shaft there, all your pressure is going to just ooze out those passages into the balance shaft cave thing.

 

-Justin

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I don't think it has been suggested, but check the wiring at the sensor. Or can you hear ticking due to no oil pressure? If it is the noise, prime on the side of the block near the timing cover as suggested. If that doesn't work, did you bleed the lifters before re-installing them?

 

On a new rebuild the lifters may clatter for a minute or two before settling down.

 

Jimmy

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I have a feeling the oil pressure sender is bad as I swapped it with one that didn't leak while the engine was apart. But, even still, I don't think the engine is getting oiled. Shouldn't my turbo oil line have oil in it by now?

 

As far as that sleeve...looking through my pictures during reassembly, it is indeed there.

 

And, the lifters, i never disassembled the head when I had it apart, so, no I didn't bleed the lifters. They are making noise and that doesn't bother me...I just want to be sure the crank is getting lubed.

 

Jimmy, that port your talking about (I did put oil in there), while turning the engine over, should oil come out of there if I were to leave the plug out? Or is that a suction port? I left the plug out and turned it over for about 30 seconds...nothing leaked out of it. Also, theres nothing in the oil cooler lines either.

 

 

 

If I can verify there is oil getting to everything else, I will start it and let it run to let the lifters pump up...but, until then, i don't want to damage my new crank :/

 

 

 

 

As I said, though, I cranked the engine over with the valve cover off and oil was not spraying out all over the place like I remember my last car doing.

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The oil cooler lines may not have oil in them because the thermovalve has not opened up. The cooler is not always cooling. Only when the oil reaches a specific temperature.

 

Is there a way of checking the oil pressure bypass valve to see if it's stuck?

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