Gamble88 Posted February 1, 2012 Report Share Posted February 1, 2012 Hmm, the car has a new headgasket from the last owner, what else could cause this?I have also never seen a jet valve before how can I tell if they are still installed with having the valve cover off? Or do I need to pull the head.http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f110/pportuese/68e331aa.jpghttp://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f110/pportuese/ae98f67b.jpghttp://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f110/pportuese/2d6d6bcb.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lance_S Posted February 1, 2012 Report Share Posted February 1, 2012 Cracked head most likely Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nomad Posted February 1, 2012 Report Share Posted February 1, 2012 Red circle is the Jet valve itself. Blue circle is rocker arm that accuates jet valve. http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/ll231/nomad1856/JetValves.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmyers151 Posted February 1, 2012 Report Share Posted February 1, 2012 How long did you run the car for before you found all this? Running it for a short amount of time in cold weather results in condensation which gives the appearence of a blown HG. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indiana Posted February 1, 2012 Report Share Posted February 1, 2012 That appears to be a reman'd or new head its too clean. If someone cleaned it that well they should have noticed any cracks. Could be they just didn't know how to put on a headgasket. I've seen silicone on headgaskets, that won't work.. I've seen finger tight headbolts, that won't work. I've seen reused gaskets, that won't work. I've seen headbolts still dripping with oil as they come out, that won't work. It could be just they didn't get the block deck cleaned or they put some sealant where it wasn't supposed to be or they dipped bolt threads in oil then installed them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gamble88 Posted February 1, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2012 Red circle is the Jet valve itself. Blue circle is rocker arm that accuates jet valve. http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/ll231/nomad1856/JetValves.jpgWhat do they look like if they were removed? I was wondering why it was only adjustable on the one side but was't sure if that was them or not. How long did you run the car for before you found all this? Running it for a short amount of time in cold weather results in condensation which gives the appearence of a blown HG.Car has probably a total run time of 45min with me. Bought it from the last owner who said the guy before him did the headgasket and he drove it and the pump died so he parked it. And 45min of mainly idle time. I have only driven the car maybe a 1 at most. Had a few other issues like clogged cat, bad injector clips etc that I was looking at. That appears to be a reman'd or new head its too clean. If someone cleaned it that well they should have noticed any cracks. Could be they just didn't know how to put on a headgasket. I've seen silicone on headgaskets, that won't work.. I've seen finger tight headbolts, that won't work. I've seen reused gaskets, that won't work. I've seen headbolts still dripping with oil as they come out, that won't work. It could be just they didn't get the block deck cleaned or they put some sealant where it wasn't supposed to be or they dipped bolt threads in oil then installed them.Any suggestions? I am thinking maybe just change the oil and put some miles on it and check it again in a bit and see what it looks like. I thought the same thing the head looks damn clean. I really hope those jet valves are gone, but not sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lance_S Posted February 1, 2012 Report Share Posted February 1, 2012 retorque the head bolts for sure. You want to make sure they are tight before you go. I would also at least do a compression test before you head out to make sure you have good compression. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gamble88 Posted February 2, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 2, 2012 I checked the headstuds at 75lbs and they were all good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indiana Posted February 2, 2012 Report Share Posted February 2, 2012 There's the posibility that there was coolant left in the turbo coolant lines and the oil cooler that weren't cleaned out and when they combined with the new oil in the pan it turned again to crap. You could drain the oil, remove the cooler and clean it out and blow out the turbo lines. When you said it was parked after the pump died was there any details if the pan was removed and pieces of debris removed, a BSEK done, was the timing chain and guides changed and the oil pan cleaned? That gets all the crap out assuming there was no damage but the only way to know is to remove the rocker assembly and inspect the cam and the journals in the head and pull the pan off and remove the bearing caps and inspect everything. You know its been driven without proper lubrication and its an old motor. If you want to keep it I'd pull the inspect the bearings at minimum. If its ready to start knocking and has washed out bearings you can save it easily and will little money and do it in the car. If you take the chance and drive it that could cost you more in the end. If you're going to beat on it you need to know what you got and the last two guys didn't know what they were doing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1989STAR-ESIR Posted February 4, 2012 Report Share Posted February 4, 2012 I am in the same boat... Milky mess http://i1253.photobucket.com/albums/hh593/denver26turbo/DSC00843.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starfighterpilot Posted February 14, 2012 Report Share Posted February 14, 2012 How much engine coolant did the coolant expansion tank lose during the 45 minutes that you ran your engine? How many miles are on your Lady? Having a jet valve head still on her may indicate that this is the same head that was on her when she was built. Even tho a crack in it may have been welded up it may have been done improperly or it developed another crack. If it was me I would get a coolant system pressure checker and pressure test the system and then go on from there. I'm surprised that no one has mentioned the timing chain case seal gasket between the engine block the timing chain case which also is the seal between the coolant pump and the block. If that gasket is not correctly compressed and no sealant was slightly applied around the water passages in that area,or the gasket is damaged you will be weeping/leaking coolant directly into the timing chain case which drains directly into the crankcase oil pan. Remember you have no idea of what has been done to your Lady in the past. For What It's Worth. Ken Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seekerz Posted February 15, 2012 Report Share Posted February 15, 2012 I have an engine that had the same milky problem. It sat with the "milk" in it for a while before i bought it. When i got it it was gummed up bad and messed alot of stuff up. Anyone know of a way to break this stuff up without damaging anything??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starfighterpilot Posted February 15, 2012 Report Share Posted February 15, 2012 I have an engine that had the same milky problem. It sat with the "milk" in it for a while before i bought it. When i got it it was gummed up bad and messed alot of stuff up. Anyone know of a way to break this stuff up without damaging anything??? Because the engine sat idle for a long time in that condition, and as you said, it has semi-hardened sludge and possibly rust/corrosion in it. You have to tear the engine down and take it in to a machine shop or a radiator shop and have all of the oil passages in the block, the head, crank shaft, piston oil squirters, oil cooler lines, turbo oil supply line, oil cooler and the oil filter adapter/bracket professionally flushed out. You can clean out the turbo oil return hose with diesel fuel and air. Then I'd completely disassemble the oil pump and the turbo cartridge oil side to see if there is any internal damage. If it has hydraulic lifters replace 'em. Check all of the nooks and crannies of the oil pan for rust. For What It's Worth. KEN Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HANZ Posted February 17, 2012 Report Share Posted February 17, 2012 is there alot of condesation in your garage cus that can do it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gamble88 Posted February 17, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 17, 2012 Not a lot but a decent amount. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starfighterpilot Posted February 19, 2012 Report Share Posted February 19, 2012 Not a lot but a decent amount. How often do you start your Lady and run her until the engine temp gets up to normal operating temp? For What It's Worth. KEN Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
QuickMitz Posted February 26, 2012 Report Share Posted February 26, 2012 Indiana and starfighter said it well, take the time now to redo what wasn't done correctly by previous owner and save yourself a lot of money and headachs in the future. It's a lot cheaper and eaisier to fix these problems now before they compound into bigger problems, meaning more machine work, and parts replacemet, and time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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