SERIOUSLY, CAN A SQ BE A REALIABLE DAILY DRIVER?

[carguygibby]

a great deal of the time, seting with out being use'd is one of the major reasons people are always haveing problems when they do go to use a car that sets a lot, wireing terminals and connections tend to corode more when not in use'd ,, so if your a little on the slow side of keeping up with need'd maintiance, it'l be more of a pain then it normaly would be

Shelby makes an excellent point, there cars do NOT like sitting around.

I still drive my Conquest at least once a week, if not more.

Colin

[Killtodie]

I drove mine for 6 months straight every day to work, 60 miles per day on just that. Probably the longest time my quest had no problems. So yes, it's possible.

 

Aside from cold weather and 25 year old parts failing on you, the car is reliable and can be driven daily. if your car keeps breaking down or you fix one thing and wait for the next to break, you should consider doing a proper tear down and rebuild.

Edited November 30, 2011 by Killtodie

[Starfighterpilot]

AWH!! You guys are making me blush and the Old Broad has turned from Ascot Silver to a funky looking pink!!

 

I believe the "secrets" to keeping the Old Broad on the road with as many miles that I've put on her are:

 

RELIGIOUSLY changing the engine oil and filter every 2500 miles and ALL other fluids at the FSM recommended intervals.

 

Like Shelby said in his reply above, you have to frequently drive Starquests to keep 'em lubed, preventing this enthanol crap gas from plating out crud on and/or rusting the internals of the injectors and to let the electrical system connectors to get current through 'em to to warm 'em up slightly keep 'em from corroding. If you are going to put your Starquest in storage over the Winter - drain the gas tank and go to an airport and buy 5 gallons of high octane ethanol free aviation gas and dump it in your tank along with some gasoline stablizer and then take her for a short trip around the block to get the av gas into the injectors. This keeps down ethanol induced rust and crud from damaging the injectors, the tank's internals and gas pick up filter. BTW - I'm still running the Factory Original OEM fuel pump and it maintains great fuel pressure altho I carry a new Mitsu OEM fuel pump with me when I'm on a long distance road trip. There is di-electric grease on every electrical connector metal terminal and ground mating surface that I have taken apart in the car and I go through checking the ones in the engine house about once a year - and even then there are occasional surprises. <_>

 

Every, or AT LEAST every other Spring, I drop the engine oil pan and clean out all of the crud from the chain guide's plastic/rubbery wear crud with brake cleaner. You would be surprised at the amount of crud that is in the pan; and every 3 years pulling and flushing out the engine oil cooler and engine oil vapor separator.

 

Each time I remove the timing cover, I replace the engine oil pump oil pressure relief plunger and spring to maintain 'like new factory" oil pressure.

 

Anytime the Old Broad develops something that ain't right - as soon as I can I figure out what the root cause of the problem is - I correct it. Believe me over the years since '88, she has thrown me some REAL SCREWBALL problems - especially this year with her electrical circuit wiring.

 

I have worn out my '88 FSM by reading it - the binding is falling apart, and every 2 months or so, I re-read the Starquest FAQ's to refresh my memory for resolution of problems or knowing what FAQ's are in the FAQ Forum. Hey - I'm retired and many times I've got nothing else to do that interests me. At times, WHAT A DULL LIFE.

 

Even tho I have done all the above since the OLD broad rolled off of the auto delivery 18 wheeler trailer at the Mitsu dealer's back in Jan '88, she did let me down once in '04 - which was probably my fault. She had a sudden total failure of the engine coolant pump seal, with NO prior weepage from the weep hole, at 2 AM in the middle of GA heading South on I-16 to Savannah from Atlanta. That was an aftermarket rebuilt Cardone engine coolant pump which I had installed about a month previously. I replaced that POS with a Mitsu OEM pump. That cluster f*** just reinforced my belief in using, whenever possible, OEM parts.

 

I do have to point out that the Old Broad and I don't do street racing - ALTHO THERE HAVE BEEN A FEW TIMES..................... If I wanted to do street racing, I used my '66 Dodge Charger which was specifically designed and built for it, when she had the Hemi & 440 in her, to kick butt and take names.

 

Once again - the OLD BROAD and I want to Thank You for mentioning us.

 

For What It's Worth.

 

KEN

[Guest]

I drove mine everyday (almost 10k miles this summer) untill a couple of weeks ago when it started getting crappy outside. I beat it a lot, its kinda modified.

 

 

Now that's an understatement!! Stretch the truth out a bit more and I'd say "liar liar, tires on fire....from drifting!"

Edited December 1, 2011 by louswheel01

[Ikon]

You guys are great! I'm fresh out of a divorce(3 months 23 days ) and I'm trying to get a sports car that I can pay for relatively inexpensively... that I can afford to keep on the road with my other vehicles(I'm selling her Commander and the house! )

 

What should I tackle 1st... on a low mileage lightly modded SQ(exhaust, 16g turbo, air intake, boost controller, performance clutch)?

[Ikon]

AWH!! You guys are making me blush and the Old Broad has turned from Ascot Silver to a funky looking pink!!

 

I believe the "secrets" to keeping the Old Broad on the road with as many miles that I've put on her are:

 

RELIGIOUSLY changing the engine oil and filter every 2500 miles and ALL other fluids at the FSM recommended intervals.

 

Like Shelby said in his reply above, you have to frequently drive Starquests to keep 'em lubed, preventing this enthanol crap gas from plating out crud on and/or rusting the internals of the injectors and to let the electrical system connectors to get current through 'em to to warm 'em up slightly keep 'em from corroding. If you are going to put your Starquest in storage over the Winter - drain the gas tank and go to an airport and buy 5 gallons of high octane ethanol free aviation gas and dump it in your tank along with some gasoline stablizer and then take her for a short trip around the block to get the av gas into the injectors. This keeps down ethanol induced rust and crud from damaging the injectors, the tank's internals and gas pick up filter. BTW - I'm still running the Factory Original OEM fuel pump and it maintains great fuel pressure altho I carry a new Mitsu OEM fuel pump with me when I'm on a long distance road trip. There is di-electric grease on every electrical connector metal terminal and ground mating surface that I have taken apart in the car and I go through checking the ones in the engine house about once a year - and even then there are occasional surprises. <_<

 

Every, or AT LEAST every other Spring, I drop the engine oil pan and clean out all of the crud from the chain guide's plastic/rubbery wear crud with brake cleaner. You would be surprised at the amount of crud that is in the pan; and every 3 years pulling and flushing out the engine oil cooler and engine oil vapor separator.

 

Each time I remove the timing cover, I replace the engine oil pump oil pressure relief plunger and spring to maintain 'like new factory" oil pressure.

 

Anytime the Old Broad develops something that ain't right - as soon as I can I figure out what the root cause of the problem is - I correct it. Believe me over the years since '88, she has thrown me some REAL SCREWBALL problems - especially this year with her electrical circuit wiring.

 

I have worn out my '88 FSM by reading it - the binding is falling apart, and every 2 months or so, I re-read the Starquest FAQ's to refresh my memory for resolution of problems or knowing what FAQ's are in the FAQ Forum. Hey - I'm retired and many times I've got nothing else to do that interests me. At times, WHAT A DULL LIFE.

 

Even tho I have done all the above since the OLD broad rolled off of the auto delivery 18 wheeler trailer at the Mitsu dealer's back in Jan '88, she did let me down once in '04 - which was probably my fault. She had a sudden total failure of the engine coolant pump seal, with NO prior weepage from the weep hole, at 2 AM in the middle of GA heading South on I-16 to Savannah from Atlanta. That was an aftermarket rebuilt Cardone engine coolant pump which I had installed about a month previously. I replaced that POS with a Mitsu OEM pump. That cluster f*** just reinforced my belief in using, whenever possible, OEM parts.

 

I do have to point out that the Old Broad and I don't do street racing - ALTHO THERE HAVE BEEN A FEW TIMES..................... If I wanted to do street racing, I used my '66 Dodge Charger which was specifically designed and built for it, when she had the Hemi & 440 in her, to kick butt and take names.

 

Once again - the OLD BROAD and I want to Thank You for mentioning us.

 

For What It's Worth.

 

KEN

 

^ thanks for the time brother! Great post...!

[FijiPhil]

You guys are great! I'm fresh out of a divorce(3 months 23 days ) and I'm trying to get a sports car that I can pay for relatively inexpensively... that I can afford to keep on the road with my other vehicles(I'm selling her Commander and the house! )

 

What should I tackle 1st... on a low mileage lightly modded SQ(exhaust, 16g turbo, air intake, boost controller, performance clutch)?

 

I think it goes without saying, but when your confident she is running 100%...

 

I would go exhaust, boost gauge, boost controller, and a blow off valve (You can recirculate it if you dont want to run rich for a second when you shift or let off the gas)

 

A wideband is a really good idea when turning the boost up. I have done it on cars without a wideband with zero problems. However, it sure is comforting to have. And I dont know that I would want to go without it now

[Ikon]

 

I think it goes without saying, but when your confident she is running 100%...

 

I would go exhaust, boost gauge, boost controller, and a blow off valve (You can recirculate it if you dont want to run rich for a second when you shift or let off the gas)

 

A wideband is a really good idea when turning the boost up. I have done it on cars without a wideband with zero problems. However, it sure is comforting to have. And I dont know that I would want to go without it now

 

Nice SQ in your signature.... simply modded, nice...

 

"RFL & UEGO"?

 

I'm puzzled on what did you mean about recirculating the blow off valve to not run rich..?

 

Edited December 1, 2011 by Ikon

[apate]

I'm puzzled on what did you mean about recirculating the blow off valve to not run rich..?

 

 

 

If you allow the BOV to vent to atmosphere the amount of air measured by the MAS will be more than the air going into the engine.

[Ikon]

I'm puzzled on what did you mean about recirculating the blow off valve to not run rich..?

 

 

 

If you allow the BOV to vent to atmosphere the amount of air measured by the MAS will be more than the air going into the engine.

 

Do all SQ owners vent their bov this way? and is the benefit worth it?

[apate]

I vented mine to atmosphere purely for the sound.

I have read that there is no performance gain either way, but venting to atmosphere you use a little more gas for the split second you go rich.

[BOHO]

I have been DDing mine since May. No major issues.

[Komeuppance]

I thought you had to push it out of an intersection recently...

 

-Robert

[83_project_toy]

i drove mine for 1 year hard stock then for 3 years very hard with a 18g seeing 20psi afew times a day. there was also alot of trips to the drag strip in those 3 years to. i figured after that much abuse i should start taking it easy on the old girl over 200k. the 1st week i started taking it easy she starts knocking. go figure.

[Frenchi934]

I drive mine everyday of the week.

[Shelby]

i drove mine for 1 year hard stock then for 3 years very hard with a 18g seeing 20psi afew times a day. there was also alot of trips to the drag strip in those 3 years to. i figured after that much abuse i should start taking it easy on the old girl over 200k. the 1st week i started taking it easy she starts knocking. go figure.

 

 

thats the first time you actualy listen'd for any noises

[Lance_S]

Nothing wrong with driving them hard. It's a sportscar for goodness sakes, that is what it was made for. But regular maintenance is the key to your quest giving you years of love. I swear it feels like I have replaced most of the car so far and I still have issues I am tracking down. The flip side is I have put 10,000 miles on her in the last 6 months and it's never left me on the road. But like an 25 year old car, it's gonna need regular work. But nothing that can't be done. Especially with guys like Shelby who have been wrenching for 50 years and are willing to share their knowledge. They are pretty easy cars to work on if you just listen to the ones who know what they are doing and do what they suggest.

[D-VO]

I daily mine about 50 miles each day, but only when I have it in tip top shape. It was down for a few weeks while I did some pretty major maintenance items, and it was down for a week because I was too busy to address an electrical problem, but I have another car. I bought mine (and paid on the higher end of market value) because I saw that this was a daily-driveable car, and for the most part it has been quite excellent.

 

That said, I also do NOT plan on driving my car through the winter, I have a set of All-seasons I could throw on, but the salt out here is a totally different animal.

Edited December 3, 2011 by D-VO

[Guest]

 

 

thats the first time you actualy listen'd for any noises

 

No, no Shelby, you're missing the logic. Some "girls" like it rough! lol

[Ikon]

Are the electrical issues the weakest link of the SQ in terms of reliability &/or maintenance? If so which issues should be addressed?

[C300]

Electrical issues are happening with my '86 because it sat in a barn for 15years or more. I need to take the time to pull every connector and ground, clean it, and spray contact protectant on them. that said, all the cars i've gotten for cheep lately are from people who don't work on cars themselves, or brought it to a garage who couldn't-didn't know how to fix it. the '86 ESI-R I have now was parked because it was brought to the Mitsu. dealer in 1994. was flooding during start up sometimes. Dealer called 2 days later and said it was the cam bearings ! Whole top end of motor pulled apart. Had leaking injectors. I put in a '87 engine that I put 80k(110k total) on(in 3 cars)and sat in my garage for 8 years.

If you go through the car and touch/inspect everything it's as good as any other old car out there, mine will be my DD. Wouldn't try driving one in the snow again though, C300

[Frenchi934]

I haven't had any electrical issues other than some of the connections at the plugs had become "lose" connections through years of vibrating....I just replaced the connectors.

[carguygibby]

Electrical issues are happening with my '86 because it sat in a barn for 15years or more. I need to take the time to pull every connector and ground, clean it, and spray contact protectant on them.

Definitely check those grounds.

Look for a ground that connects via a black plastic connector from the wiring loom to the inlet manifold just under the throttle body.

This one broke on mine and played havoc with my electrics! Fixed it and I now get a reliable 14+ volts.

I don't know if every year has it but worked wonders on my '86 electrical system.

Colin

Edited December 3, 2011 by carguygibby

[Ikon]

Definitely check those grounds.

Look for a ground that connects via a black plastic connector from the wiring loom to the inlet manifold just under the throttle body.

This one broke on mine and played havoc with my electrics! Fixed it and I now get a reliable 14+ volts.

I don't know if every year has it but worked wonders on my '86 electrical system.

Colin

 

Agreed! My Lexus SC400 had a lose wire on it and it gave me the blues until I tracked it down...

 

Carguy is this common on TSI

[carguygibby]

 

Carguy is this common on TSI

Starion/Conquest wiring is "quirky" to say the least. Like C300 stated check all the grounds and electrical connections to try and eliminate some of the issues these cars have. I've replaced all the fusible links and battery cables, taken out the coil of wire for the ammeter that you will find under the smaller fusible links/relays and rewired through a early Montero setup I found in a junkyard. I've also rerouted or secured a lot of the wiring in the engine bay for added security.

All this was done to a 1986 which may be a little different from later years. Now all the electrics work reliably but bearing in mind the age of these cars now there is often some niggly things you just have to live with. The flickering voltmeter needle when you use the flashers comes to mind!

Colin

Edited December 4, 2011 by carguygibby