need some help painting a plastic 4 whlr body

[Shelby]

it seems that krylon has plastc adhiveize paint , any one have any lock with this paint on the plastic bodys , it's a 2007 110cc 4 whlr that i'm dressing up for the g-g-son Tyler for x-mas , you know the normal rebushing replace spindles, swing arm bushings etc , and was wanting to repaint the shell part with some thing that wil stick to it , remove the racks and give them and frame a new coat of paint he has two 70cc ones that he's quickly out growing

 

any one know of a better paint to use

[ucw458]

Krylon fusion works pretty good. Clean the plastic with alcohol and scuff it first before painting. I haven't had it come off my starion fan blades yet. But honestly any paint on a 4 whlr is gonna see some abuse. It will get scratched and chip like any other paint. I would use krylon fusion and be done with it. No point in spending more $ on something that's gonna get all scratched up anyway.

[carguygibby]

I use it all the time Shelby.

Works great.

Colin

[gerwulf]

what i did to my plastics was get a old metal tub from a junkyard, will it with hevy duty dye that i wanted and soaked the plastic in it, really gives it a good color

[dmyers151]

I've used paint meant for plastic outdoor patio furniture, it only comes in earth tones and black but its super durable.

[modifyd]

K. Fusion is my recommendation, too

[Burton]

Scuff with grey or red Scotchbrite....Krylon Fusion......Done. In that order.

 

 

If you want the 4 wheeler to look REALLY nice and shiny then scotchbrite, use an adhesion promoter, then use a urethane basecoat/clear coat instead of the Krylon Fusion. This method is much more expensive and time consuming tho, and it sounds like you're looking for quick and easy.

[Shelby]

krylon fusion has a clear coat also wouldn't that do almost the same thing as a base coat clear coat , as an aditional skuff protestion

[DMNDSTAR87]

Im with burton on useing an automotive bc/cc system----will look better and be more durable and last alot longer----the spray cans of clear are no where close to the gloss and durability of a true urethane clearcoat but the cost is much cheaper---id say a pint of inexpensive automotive paint with the reducer/clearcoat and catalyst would be under $100---dont know if ur looking to get into the project that deep and if u have an automotive spraygun---im not a fan of spraycans but most work good enough if proper prep guidelines are followed---

gig out

[jszucs]

If you use the fusion do a few light coats. That stuff sticks well but it runs real easy. So light mist coats are the way to go.

[jeph_tsi]

I'm with burton too, unfortunately not only will it be more expensive, but you will also need a gun and compressor. When you use bc/cc rather than rattle can you will get a more even coat and much more uniform color and shine.

[Shelby]

well air is not a problem and i have 3 NEW spray guns that have never seen paint , but a dryer and just cleaning up the guns will set me back a min of $50 , i'm into the thing for over $200 just to rebushing and redo the frt spindles and swing arms and a few other things as it is now

 

also theres more then one color so it'l drag out the paint and clean up time , but the clear coat can be spray'd over both or all colors right

[Burton]

Yes, the CC can be put over all the colors, and it will also mostly smooth out any steps from tape lines.

 

The difference between BC/CC system and using the Krylon paint and clear is that the urethane BC/CC is gonna have better quality, durability, UV protection, and retain more flexibility. It will generally look better and last longer.

 

 

Now if the kid is gonna go out and thrash on it, scratch it all up, and kill it in a couple years, then maybe the Krylon is the right choice, but if you plan on it looking nice and keeping it around for many years, then do the urethane BC/CC.

 

Oh, and what do you mean about needing a dryer? Do you mean for the compressed air? Having clean, dry air is pretty much standard in body shops, and I have good water/oil filters set up on my air lines. However, for the longest time in MI, all I had was an air hose off the compressor and an $5 in-line water trap, and had great results. I like having my nice expensive setup now, but for a project like this, you can easily get away with an in-line trap and not have to worry too much about contamination.

[Shelby]

down in florida Mark clear coat don't last years and years if out side in direct sun lol

 

what would i ask for to shoot the plastic,, i asume they have it in the redi mix pints , or do i need to add an adiative to the reg base coats and also what about hardner in them redi to spray pints,, i'm almost sure it has no hardner in it or it'd harden up in the cans

[boosted89quest]

I actualy did this with some atv plastics.. I used Bullydog Adhersiion promoter and an auto base/clear and it turned out pretty darn great.. I trail ride and mud with my wheeler and it hasnt dinged up very bad at all.. alot of the newer atv's are actualy painted and not dyed plastic as well.. so you'll be good!

[DMNDSTAR87]

down in florida Mark clear coat don't last years and years if out side in direct sun lol

 

what would i ask for to shoot the plastic,, i asume they have it in the redi mix pints , or do i need to add an adiative to the reg base coats and also what about hardner in them redi to spray pints,, i'm almost sure it has no hardner in it or it'd harden up in the cans

Bulldog adhesion promoter is a great product and most places have it----u will have to pick out the colors u want so if ur trying to match something bring a part with u if possible--choose colors and tell them u want at least a half pint of each color(some colors cover much better than others)in basecoat/clearcoat---you will need reducer for the color---need clearcoat and hardner for the clearcoat and ur good to go---tell the salesguy to give u some tech sheets on the products ur gettin and they will have all ur dry times and reductions----also get fast dry on the reducer for the paint and fast dry on the hardner for the clear----it will help u get out of dust quicker where ur not sprayin in a booth-----hope this helps

gig out

[Burton]

I agree with everything above...except....

 

You may need more than half pints of base. The half pints would be good for secondary graphics colors, but for the overall color of the quad you will probably want at least a whole pint to make sure you have enough, especially if you are spraying the top side and bottom side with the plastics off the quad.

 

Also, I would avoid using a fast reducer in the base and a fast hardener in the clear unless you are spraying in cold weather. I only use fast if it's less than 65 degrees out, and only use slow when it's 85 or more. For everything in between I use medium, and since it's still pretty warm in FL, you might do better with medium. If you use slow in the clear and it's petty warm out, you may have issues with the finish or runs.

 

 

 

As far as the basecoat... it takes a while for it to harden up in the can. when it's a big solid, unreduced mass in the can it can sit for a long time with the can closed. If the can's open it will dry out faster but still take a while (and ruin the paint as it does). Of course, if you take some base, mix in the reducer and spray it in thin coats, it hardens fast. You may even be able to have the paint place go ahead and reduce your basecoat to save you having to do it, but be aware that a pint of unreduced paint will go farther than a pint of reduced paint. Reduced basecoat will last a long time in a can, but clear is not the same way. Once the hardener is added to the clear, you've got a limited amount of time until it's hard, wether in a can or not.

 

 

If you feel you need to get as much info about the paint you want to use, and what products to buy, you will want to go to a true auto paint place as they know all about that stuff. The only problem with buying from places like that is that the cost is usally higher, but you will be better informed and equiped to tackle the job. If you know what you want and what you're doing, then I have found Carquest is a great place to get your supplies. They usually aren't very informative about the processes of painting, but they can mix up any paint color you want and their prices are usually cheaper. I also like Carquest because their "cheap" paint is Nason which is a subsidiary of DuPont, which is qulaity stuff. Just last week I needed a quart of some paint for a Toyota I did. The standard auto body jobber store wanted almost $40/qt of their "cheap" paint (PPG OMNI), yet Carquest only wanted $27/qt for Nason. But keep in mind... Some colors cost more to mix than others. Reds are more expensive to mix than other colors, and I think blue too. Simple colors like white, black, and even silvers are usually the cheapest.

 

I think you could probably get away with getting your stuff on the cheap at Carquest and we can walk ya thru the rest.

 

Here is what you would need

 

-1 or 2 gray Scotchbrites

-1 can of Bulldog adhesion promotor, or something compareable

-At least one roll of 1/2" or 3/4" green 3M auto grade painters tape.

-Paper for masking- I prefer actual paint masking paper, but news paper will work, as long as you put on 4 or 5 layers, otherwise the base and clear may soak thru the newspaper

-Basecoat- A cheap brand is fine, but get a urethane product, and make sure you have enough of the various colors you want to use. At least a pint for the primary color, and half pints for secondary graphics colors.

-Reducer for basecoat, or have the paint place reduce it for you.

-Urethane Clearcoat and hardener kit- A pint kit probably wouldn't be enough to do 2-3 coats on the whole thing, so you'll probably want to get a quart kit

-Get the MSDS and tech sheets for the products you are using. That way you will know how to mix them and what air pressures and temps to spray them at.

 

 

Oh and Shelby, I know what the southern sun does to clear. I bet it may even be harsher here in southern TX as it is in FL. I can promise you this tho... A good automotive urethane clear will last longer, in any conditions, than rattle canned stuff, even Krylon Fusion. Most of that rattle can stuff is laquer based.

[DMNDSTAR87]

I agree with everything above...except....

 

You may need more than half pints of base. The half pints would be good for secondary graphics colors, but for the overall color of the quad you will probably want at least a whole pint to make sure you have enough, especially if you are spraying the top side and bottom side with the plastics off the quad.

 

Also, I would avoid using a fast reducer in the base and a fast hardener in the clear unless you are spraying in cold weather. I only use fast if it's less than 65 degrees out, and only use slow when it's 85 or more. For everything in between I use medium, and since it's still pretty warm in FL, you might do better with medium. If you use slow in the clear and it's petty warm out, you may have issues with the finish or runs.

 

 

 

As far as the basecoat... it takes a while for it to harden up in the can. when it's a big solid, unreduced mass in the can it can sit for a long time with the can closed. If the can's open it will dry out faster but still take a while (and ruin the paint as it does). Of course, if you take some base, mix in the reducer and spray it in thin coats, it hardens fast. You may even be able to have the paint place go ahead and reduce your basecoat to save you having to do it, but be aware that a pint of unreduced paint will go farther than a pint of reduced paint. Reduced basecoat will last a long time in a can, but clear is not the same way. Once the hardener is added to the clear, you've got a limited amount of time until it's hard, wether in a can or not.

 

 

If you feel you need to get as much info about the paint you want to use, and what products to buy, you will want to go to a true auto paint place as they know all about that stuff. The only problem with buying from places like that is that the cost is usally higher, but you will be better informed and equiped to tackle the job. If you know what you want and what you're doing, then I have found Carquest is a great place to get your supplies. They usually aren't very informative about the processes of painting, but they can mix up any paint color you want and their prices are usually cheaper. I also like Carquest because their "cheap" paint is Nason which is a subsidiary of DuPont, which is qulaity stuff. Just last week I needed a quart of some paint for a Toyota I did. The standard auto body jobber store wanted almost $40/qt of their "cheap" paint (PPG OMNI), yet Carquest only wanted $27/qt for Nason. But keep in mind... Some colors cost more to mix than others. Reds are more expensive to mix than other colors, and I think blue too. Simple colors like white, black, and even silvers are usually the cheapest.

 

I think you could probably get away with getting your stuff on the cheap at Carquest and we can walk ya thru the rest.

 

Here is what you would need

 

-1 or 2 gray Scotchbrites

-1 can of Bulldog adhesion promotor, or something compareable

-At least one roll of 1/2" or 3/4" green 3M auto grade painters tape.

-Paper for masking- I prefer actual paint masking paper, but news paper will work, as long as you put on 4 or 5 layers, otherwise the base and clear may soak thru the newspaper

-Basecoat- A cheap brand is fine, but get a urethane product, and make sure you have enough of the various colors you want to use. At least a pint for the primary color, and half pints for secondary graphics colors.

-Reducer for basecoat, or have the paint place reduce it for you.

-Urethane Clearcoat and hardener kit- A pint kit probably wouldn't be enough to do 2-3 coats on the whole thing, so you'll probably want to get a quart kit

-Get the MSDS and tech sheets for the products you are using. That way you will know how to mix them and what air pressures and temps to spray them at.

 

 

Oh and Shelby, I know what the southern sun does to clear. I bet it may even be harsher here in southern TX as it is in FL. I can promise you this tho... A good automotive urethane clear will last longer, in any conditions, than rattle canned stuff, even Krylon Fusion. Most of that rattle can stuff is laquer based.

Ha forgot shelby in florida---40dgres here in mass---brrrr--been useing fast rdcr for a month already---sound information burton--

gig out

[Shelby]

just what i need'd to know , now if i can get physicaly able to get this done i'l be fine

been geting tire'd spells , then your back is killing you from too much laying in bed ,,no way to win

[Burton]

Ha forgot shelby in florida---40dgres here in mass---brrrr--been useing fast rdcr for a month already---sound information burton--

gig out

 

 

LOL! I just quit using the super slow reducer (98 degree plus) 2 weeks ago, and have only had to use medium once. I probably won't have to start using the fast stuff til January LOL.

[Shelby]

just what i need'd to know , now if i can get physicaly able to get this done i'l be fine

been geting tire'd spells , then your back is killing you from too much laying in bed ,,no way to win

 

 

don't worry i had no intention of useing the fast stuff,,, it'd be drying befor it hit the plastic