JohnnyWadd Posted August 25, 2011 Report Share Posted August 25, 2011 Your hypocricy is showing. Backpedaling doesn't change what you wrote. Out of respect to the OP I will not respond to any more of your verbal bashing here. You seem to have an attitude problem towards me. If you like we can discuss it like civilized adults in a PM. Glad i could help you. Dont p.m. me please its a nice offer thanks though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Convette Posted August 25, 2011 Report Share Posted August 25, 2011 I don't see any room for argument here...no need to. Heres what I did. http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w239/johnboy9788/IMAG0803.jpgStill trying to decide on how I want the handle.http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w239/johnboy9788/IMAG0808.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drwojo Posted August 25, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 25, 2011 love the cans. Maybe we can go on a test run soon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drwojo Posted September 12, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 12, 2011 Have not been on in a while. Little update. Handbrake worked fantastic. I did originally install the lines backwards. From what you would believe to be the correct way is incorrect. Regardless. All plumed and bled. No leaks. Have fantastic pedal feel. Locks up the rears with little effort. 15mph to 50mph have been my test thus far. Normally around 50-75 degrees F. These are my tires http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?KEYWORD=tires.jsp_Dunlop_Direzza_Sport_Z1_Star_Spec_Tire&CAWELAID=712087467&tireMake=Dunlop&GCID=C13674x012-tire&partnum=25VR6Z1SS&tireModel=Direzza+Sport+Z1+Star+Spec&code=yes& Overall I am very happy with this mod. Lost little pedal when handbrake is engaged and foot braking. All in all, totally worth it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SFBMX88 Posted November 23, 2011 Report Share Posted November 23, 2011 The worst part is that I've yet to figure out how to attach the sensor for the brake lights in a clean manner Have you looked into brake light pressure switches? http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PRF-80171/ It comes down to mechanical advantage, friction and application of force. Bearing those in mind can the hydrolic system apply more force to the rear pads. If so how much more? A significant amount or just a little more?Don't forget that you can adjust you mechanical advantage by selecting certain bore sizes on the master cylinder. You are trading force for distance: http://science.howstuffworks.com/transport/engines-equipment/hydraulic1.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SFBMX88 Posted November 6, 2012 Report Share Posted November 6, 2012 (edited) Working on a similar inline hand brake setup on my Toyota.... I found that 10mm banjo to M10x1 inverted flare adapters off of junkyard Mazda Miata master cylinders work great on the outlet of the Wilwood master cylinder(10mm and 3/8" banjos are interchangeable). http://i.imgur.com/S4hXJ.jpghttp://i.imgur.com/E2mnq.jpg Only other part needed is a 3/8" - 24 banjo bolt w/washers. I used a Russel 640650 banjo bolt. It was slightly too long, so I trimmed it down a bit. http://i.imgur.com/Xk6JR.jpghttp://i.imgur.com/zxqUb.jpg Also running an adjustable proportioning valve in line before the hand brake master cylinder. Joining the two with a -3 an to 7/16" banjo braided line. http://i.imgur.com/niTgi.jpg http://i.imgur.com/MgFsZ.jpghttp://i.imgur.com/FXxFn.jpghttp://i.imgur.com/MaV1I.jpgAll built with 16ga steel from Lowes, a 1986 Mazda Protege shift lever welded to an inverted Toyota Corolla clutch pedal, and topped off with an Isuzu Trooper 4WD transfer case shift knob Edited November 7, 2012 by SFBMX88 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drwojo Posted November 10, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 10, 2012 Very cool. I like the homemade/cost savings kit you assembled. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Metric-man Posted November 15, 2012 Report Share Posted November 15, 2012 (For newbs) This is great for the track not really that great for a DD since parking brakes are just that, for parking.Even if you use the click stop lever, the fail safe is a cable doesn't have the posibility of leaking fluid while engaged. These modifications are also only applicable if the Anti-lock system is disabled or removed. (for everyone else) On an off topic note I would like to know if anyone has modified the anti-lock modulator as an air pump,for other applications like air lockers or air suspensions???? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patra_is_here Posted December 15, 2012 Report Share Posted December 15, 2012 is there any reason one couldn't just leave the cable brake in place? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Komeuppance Posted December 15, 2012 Report Share Posted December 15, 2012 Only if you added a new handle instead of converting the stock one. Unless you wanted to run both hydro and cable at the same time lol.. -Robert Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patra_is_here Posted December 16, 2012 Report Share Posted December 16, 2012 yeah that's what I meant. just leave the stock one there and put a hydro one next to it. should be ok yeah? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fuze Posted April 16, 2013 Report Share Posted April 16, 2013 (edited) http://i.imgur.com/MaV1I.jpg SFBMX, that's the trickest hydro ebrake I've seen in a non-megabuck car. Also, great info on the fittings and small stuff that make you take five trips to the hardware store or Pep Boys trying to figure out. Anybody running dual rear calpiers with a hydro setup? That's the way I want to go. Edited April 16, 2013 by Fuze Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts