ESIrType? Posted July 29, 2011 Report Share Posted July 29, 2011 I am wondering if I can install the rod studs while the engine is not apart. The oil pan is off the car and I am not sure whether these are pressed in or if I can install them without pulling the pistons. Thanks,Shawn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wrngwae Posted July 29, 2011 Report Share Posted July 29, 2011 i don't see why you couldn't...... it would be a good time for some fresh bearings while your there too. just get a stud metric stud removal socket and take them out. wipe the old oil off the connecting rod real good, install fresh bearings with some assembly lube, and reinstall. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ESIrType? Posted July 29, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 29, 2011 The bearings shouldn't be bad, they don't have more than 15,000 miles on them. I will index them before reinstalling. Thanks for the reply,Shawn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starfighterpilot Posted July 29, 2011 Report Share Posted July 29, 2011 (edited) Mitsu OEM rods are held together with BOLTS/nuts - NOT studs. Why are you replacing them? The OEM bolts are every bit as good as the ARP "studs"/nuts. If you are using the OEM rods you just wasted money by buying those "studs." They will get you nothing more in reliability unless you are running a 400 HP G54B T engine unless the OEM bolts have been permanently stretched (exhibited by necking and longer than spec bolt lenght) by over torquing. What made you decide to replace the rod fasteners with ARP if the rods are still in the engine? For What It's Worth. KEN Edited July 29, 2011 by Starfighterpilot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dad Posted July 29, 2011 Report Share Posted July 29, 2011 They are pressed in the rods and usually go in tighter than the stock bolts. Dad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VICE Posted July 29, 2011 Report Share Posted July 29, 2011 Uhh I have had some bad luck with ARP Head Studs loosening up..(Suspected kill of my Rebuild motor) That's just my 2 cents.. But they we're in two rebuilds and torqued to 100 Lb's etc, etc.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ESIrType? Posted July 29, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 29, 2011 Thanks Dad, exactly what I wanted to know. Starfighterpilot, I bought a set of ARP "bolts" (my mistake not studs) because I had the to oil pan off while pulling on a new head and BSE kit. I figured if I was this far I might as well replace them while I have it apart.Am I at 400hp, probably not yet, at least to the ground. I am running a big turbo and MPI I am hoping to dyno 350 rwhp sometime soon or more. Shawn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indiana Posted July 30, 2011 Report Share Posted July 30, 2011 Rods should be reconditioned if you change the bolts. If that cap isn't on exactly where its supposed to be you can eat that bearing in seconds. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caliber308 Posted August 2, 2011 Report Share Posted August 2, 2011 (edited) Rods should be reconditioned if you change the bolts. If that cap isn't on exactly where its supposed to be you can eat that bearing in seconds. Agreed. Best to do things like this during the Engine Rebuild process. I have both ARP Head Studs and Rod Bolts installed, and they were done at the time my Engine was rebuilt. Bill Edited August 2, 2011 by Caliber308 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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