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Everyone keeps telling me about stock electric fans. Would be nice, if my car was a TSi. Mine's a flatty. Mine's not wired for stock electric fans. Can someone measure the thickness of the end tanks on a 2 Row SR20?
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Everyone keeps telling me about stock electric fans. Would be nice, if my car was a TSi. Mine's a flatty.

 

Sell it and buy a WIDEBODY :lol: :lol: Besides that, anything can be modified to work...Even on Flatties ;) Even though I don't think they are as nice as the Wide ones. Just my personal preference.Have you thought about changing the radiator to a Large one Electric fan set up with a sensor probe ( You could even run two, if the fans are small) instead of the clutch fan set up ?. It is real easy to do, they connect directly to the battery. So you don't have any wiring issues.Positive fan wire to the Positive battery terminal, and Negative fan wire to the Negative battery terminal. The Probe sensor in the upper radiator hose reads the coolant temps. and sends that information to the Adjustable Rheostat on a pre-set on/off temp. that you determine. Fan run on after shut off is going to happen. Don't be concerned. It is just cooling the Radiator down, and it doesn't drain the battery power down enough to be concerned.The Electric fan (or fans) don't use enough power to do that, Unless your battery is JUNK to begin with ;) One thing that does concern me is this: "Why is your car running hot in the first place" ?

 

Bill

Edited by Caliber308
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Everyone keeps telling me about stock electric fans. Would be nice, if my car was a TSi. Mine's a flatty. Mine's not wired for stock electric fans. Can someone measure the thickness of the end tanks on a 2 Row SR20?

 

You already have the three row and a 14" fan? If so I would run two of those 14" electric fans BETWEEN the condenser and the radiator I know it will give you the clearance you need. Then you can take that foam sealing tape and seal off the rad to the core support. Get an automotive relay and run your power to the fans, next pick up a 180* 3/8" npt thermosensor or a stock primary fan sensor and tap the bottom of the sr rad where the drain is with a 3/8 npt tap and use it to switch the relay on. ;)

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You already have the three row and a 14" fan? If so I would run two of those 14" electric fans BETWEEN the condenser and the radiator I know it will give you the clearance you need. Then you can take that foam sealing tape and seal off the rad to the core support. Get an automotive relay and run your power to the fans, next pick up a 180* 3/8" npt thermosensor or a stock primary fan sensor and tap the bottom of the sr rad where the drain is with a 3/8 npt tap and use it to switch the relay on. ;)

 

Good advice Scooter,

But, with just the aftermarket fan set up, he can accomplish the same thing without drilling and tapping a SR20 radiator. It can be done with the stock radiator (in good shape) without Thermosensors.I think we are all missing something in giving Coke advice. The main question should be this: "Why is your car overheating in the first place". Flatside, no Electric Fans.Is your fan clutch working properly? What boost psi are you running? and when does the car overheat? Any other mods that have been done that we don't know about? It may not be a cooling problem at all.Could be something that was done that leads to his overheating problem ;) After that is determined, We can try to give him advice that can help him out.We all: "Jump the gun" sometimes ;) Myself included.

 

Bill

Edited by Caliber308
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I have an SR radiator sitting here in the garage. 3 Row. I installed it, and I could not fit anymore than one 14" fan in the engine compartment because I still have air conditioning.

I have Air Conditioning with a 1987 Starion stock radiator and run two stock fans???? I think you are making excuses as to why you can't do something. Just do it. There are other methods you can do to accomplish installing Aftermarket or Stock cooling fans on a Stock Flatside Starquest Radiator that did not come with them. I gave you one example in a prior post in this thread about installing Aftermarket Electric fans on a Starquest Stock Radiator. Scooter did too on a SR20 Set up.So, you now have enough information to get the job done....Correct?

 

 

 

Bill

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I'd say the fan clutch is slipping...can lead to a lot of mystery cooling issues. At highway speeds, there's enough air passing through to cool the engine, plus, the clutch has time to "catch up."

 

Happened on my Ram...replaced everything, radiator, water pump, thermostat, turned out to be the fan clutch :/

 

Especially if you can grab the fan and wobble it any, its definitely that.

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He's only got the stock gauge to go by, and has used an infrared gun to measure the external temp of the radiator. Not sure how accurate those readings really are.

 

-Robert

 

Robert, I only have my Stock Temp. Gauge to go by. Even when I Warped and Cracked a Cylinder Head back in 1994. I saw the temp. gauge go into the red right before my eyes and continued to drive it. It was a $2000.00 lesson back then. My Stock Temp. Gauge has worked fine since 1989. But, I am sure if you want to drill holes in your cooling ports, You can maybe get a more accurate readings....I doubt it.I'll stick with my Stock unit. P.S. I don't think Cokes problem is with his Clutch fan or radiator. I think modifications without the proper Cooling upgrades led to his Overheating problems. Just my opinion. And I might be wrong. But things seem to point in that direction.

 

 

Bill

Edited by Caliber308
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Well you know yours is working properly, but we don't know if his is. One member thought he was overheating and it turned out to be just his gauge sender.

 

Just gotta check all possibilities.

 

-Robert

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P.S. I don't think Cokes problem is with his Clutch fan or radiator. I think modifications without the proper Cooling upgrades led to his Overheating problems. Just my opinion.

 

 

Bill

 

What modifications?

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Well you know yours is working properly, but we don't know if his is. One member thought he was overheating and it turned out to be just his gauge sender.

 

Just gotta check all possibilities.

 

-Robert

 

Agreed 100 %

 

Bill

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What modifications?

 

Ask him.Overheating problems can be contributed to other things besides a Clutch Fan and a Dirty Radiator problem.Coke should trouble shoot his entire set up as to why it is overheating.

 

Bill

Edited by Caliber308
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I think modifications without the proper Cooling upgrades led to his Overheating problems. Just my opinion. And I might be wrong. But things seem to point in that direction.

 

 

Bill

 

Exactly so why do you keep pushing the stock rad and electric fan idea, he already has an sr rad and 14" fan so he should use that not get a widebody rad/fan because it has worked for you for 1 millions years. Think outside the box Cal. And as far as drilling and tapping for a sensor is concerned what are you so afraid of? I think its funny you rely on stock components SOOOO much yet your tbucket didn't come with a 454.....

 

Not trying to be inflammatory to you Cal just stirring the discussion up a bit!

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Stock stuff works quite well, when in proper condition, haha. I'd put a shiny SR rad in before I'd rod the stock radiator though.

 

I think Justin is having other issues besides the radiator.

 

-Robert

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Exactly so why do you keep pushing the stock rad and electric fan idea. Because they work. he already has an sr rad and 14" fan so he should use that not get a widebody rad/fan because it has worked for you for 1 millions years. N Think outside the box Cal. And as far as drilling and tapping for a sensor is concerned what are you so afraid of? I think its funny you rely on stock components SOOOO much yet your tbucket didn't come with a 454.....

 

Not trying to be inflammatory to you Cal just stirring the discussion up a bit!

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Exactly so why do you keep pushing the stock rad and electric fan idea. Because they work. he already has an sr rad and 14" fan so he should use that not get a widebody rad/fan because it has worked for you for 1 millions years. Not one million years, just 22 years of owning the same Starquest. Think outside the box Cal. And as far as drilling and tapping for a sensor is concerned what are you so afraid of? I think its funny you rely on stock components SOOOO much yet your tbucket didn't come with a 454. A Engine and a cooling system are two different things.

 

Not trying to be inflammatory to you Cal just stirring the discussion up a bit! I think you are. Did you read anything I posted about running a aftermarket fan set up? That would be the best solution to a Flatty Fan Clutch set up. If the radiator is fine, and you don't have Electric fans for cooling. What more could you ask for? I don't post B.S.answers on this site. I give the best advice I can based on knowledge and experience. Members can take it or disregard it.After all, I don't get paid for giving advice. I do this to help others out like I have been. If some disagree with me fine...But, unless you think i'm wrong and have proof of it. Don't try to one up me. I personally like you. I talked to you at Mesquite in a civil manner. But, you remind me of me. In other words you are high strung. So am I. We can be civil with each other, but we will never agree with each other because of the way we both are ;)

 

Bill

Edited by Caliber308
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GM did the same thing Chyr did with their older big block cars,,they all use'd huge 3 row radiators , heck i put one in my old 75 chev short bed and on the high way at speed you almost didn't need any fans

 

but that was back when they realy care'd how long their cars last'd these days if the computor model says it can get by barely with X amount of min cooling thats as far as they go

take the mid 90's mits Eclipes the 5 spd car got a 1 row rad, the auto tranny cars got a 2 row,,so one real easy upgrade to the cooling system was to use an auto car radiator ,,that should have been use'd across the board on all their cars

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Exactly so why do you keep pushing the stock rad and electric fan idea. Because they work. he already has an sr rad and 14" fan so he should use that not get a widebody rad/fan because it has worked for you for 1 millions years. Not one million years, just 22 years of owning the same Starquest. Think outside the box Cal. And as far as drilling and tapping for a sensor is concerned what are you so afraid of? I think its funny you rely on stock components SOOOO much yet your tbucket didn't come with a 454. A Engine and a cooling system are two different things.

 

Not trying to be inflammatory to you Cal just stirring the discussion up a bit! I think you are. Did you read anything I posted about running a aftermarket fan set up? That would be the best solution to a Flatty Fan Clutch set up. If the radiator is fine, and you don't have Electric fans for cooling. What more could you ask for? I don't post B.S.answers on this site. I give the best advice I can based on knowledge and experience. Members can take it or disregard it.After all, I don't get paid for giving advice. I do this to help others out like I have been. If some disagree with me fine...But, unless you think i'm wrong and have proof of it. Don't try to one up me. I personally like you. I talked to you at Mesquite in a civil manner. But, you remind me of me. In other words you are high strung. So am I. We can be civil with each other, but we will never agree with each other because of the way we both are ;)

 

Bill

 

Man I couldn't agree with you more Cal, we need to hang out in Vegas!

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ame='Caliber308' date='13 July 2011 - 01:03 PM' timestamp='1310587428' post='1187967']

 

 

Man I couldn't agree with you more Cal, we need to hang out in Vegas!

 

In Three months from now we will :) I'll buy the first round of drinks.

 

Bill

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If we all agreed all the time all the cars would look the same and how boring would that be?

 

Stock radiator on highly modded car with high boost a just a POS that needs to go in the garbage. The excessive boost is where the heat comes from and the air flow through the core sucks if it didn't you'd only need a fan on when you were stopped and sometimes they run all the time.

 

Has this engine been rebuilt? Was it out of the car and the block washed and the water jacket cleaned out? I've seen them with an inch of rust in the bottom and there's no way it will ever run cool and that sets up like cement the only way to get it out is scrape it out, flip the block over and beat on it and watch it rain out in a big pile. It only took one idiot that didn't want to buy coolant and just used water instead when something went wrong then leaves it in there and it rusts before your eyes and it will never stop until its cleaned out and fresh coolant put in.

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Do the flat siders have the same air diversion panel that goes under the engine etc as the wide bodies? If so is yours in place? I would imagine that would help airflow through the radiator at hwy speed.

These cars aren't like old Chevy trucks with a huge grill opening.

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Good advice Scooter,

But, with just the aftermarket fan set up, he can accomplish the same thing without drilling and tapping a SR20 radiator. It can be done with the stock radiator (in good shape) without Thermosensors.I think we are all missing something in giving Coke advice. The main question should be this: "Why is your car overheating in the first place". Flatside, no Electric Fans.Is your fan clutch working properly? What boost psi are you running? and when does the car overheat? Any other mods that have been done that we don't know about? It may not be a cooling problem at all.Could be something that was done that leads to his overheating problem ;) After that is determined, We can try to give him advice that can help him out.We all: "Jump the gun" sometimes ;) Myself included.

 

Bill

 

I have my MBC set to 17PSI on my 16g turbo. However...at highway...I'm running between -15 and -10 vacuum. No boosting involved whatsoever. The car only overheats on the freeway, at freeway speeds. When I slow down, it cools off, actually.

 

I have Air Conditioning with a 1987 Starion stock radiator and run two stock fans???? I think you are making excuses as to why you can't do something. Just do it. There are other methods you can do to accomplish installing Aftermarket or Stock cooling fans on a Stock Flatside Starquest Radiator that did not come with them. I gave you one example in a prior post in this thread about installing Aftermarket Electric fans on a Starquest Stock Radiator. Scooter did too on a SR20 Set up.So, you now have enough information to get the job done....Correct?

 

 

 

Bill

 

If your trying to tell me that I never even tried to fit the radiator and fan in my car, your wrong. With the increased thickness of the SR20 3 Row radiator, a 14'' cooling fan will not fit between the A/C compressor and the radiator. It hits. Therefore, I have to move the cooling fan more "centered" to the radiator, to clear the compressor. Once I've done this....I've taken away any space I would have had, to mount a second fan.

 

Here's proof I had the radiator in the car, all mounted and fabb'ed in.

http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/263933_10150292441976672_505891671_8974705_85127_n.jpg

 

http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/269571_10150293354456672_505891671_8987196_163940_n.jpg

Ask him.Overheating problems can be contributed to other things besides a Clutch Fan and a Dirty Radiator problem.Coke should trouble shoot his entire set up as to why it is overheating.

 

Bill

 

I just had the radiator cleaned professionally by a radiator shop. The condenser, while is infact falling apart (and I need to REPLACE it) it is free of debris and not clogged with 25 year old dirt, bugs and leaves. You can see thru it just fine.

 

If we all agreed all the time all the cars would look the same and how boring would that be?

 

Stock radiator on highly modded car with high boost a just a POS that needs to go in the garbage. The excessive boost is where the heat comes from and the air flow through the core sucks if it didn't you'd only need a fan on when you were stopped and sometimes they run all the time.

 

Has this engine been rebuilt? Was it out of the car and the block washed and the water jacket cleaned out? I've seen them with an inch of rust in the bottom and there's no way it will ever run cool and that sets up like cement the only way to get it out is scrape it out, flip the block over and beat on it and watch it rain out in a big pile. It only took one idiot that didn't want to buy coolant and just used water instead when something went wrong then leaves it in there and it rusts before your eyes and it will never stop until its cleaned out and fresh coolant put in.

 

Click this link:

http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=78589&view=findpost&p=926109

 

Yes, the engine was rebuilt by me, about 17,000 miles ago. I stripped the engine down COMPLETELY, removing all the softplugs and oil galley plugs, powerwashing the bejezus out of the inside of the block, including cooling jackets, oil galleys, and so on/so forth. I learned a lot watching Randy "Dad" clean a past engine he had done for me, and I knew where, what, and how to clean this one when I had it apart.

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