Coke Posted June 26, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2011 I don't have any room for another fan. Period. I'm running air conditioning, theres no room on the AC condenser for another pusher, and due to the A/C Compressor, I can't really shove my fan over any further to accommodate another fan. The fan motor would contact the compressor pulley. Jolyrgr radiators come one with big fan...and I haven't heard of any complaints with it. I will have to find people who have his setup and ask about the fan's performance. I'm not satasfied with the performance of the fan I have on mine. It seems weak. If the Jolyrgr fan is a brute, then maybe that's what I need for mine. Either way the cookie crumbles, It'll HAVE TO DO until I get back from Pigeon Forge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UlrichWolf Posted June 26, 2011 Report Share Posted June 26, 2011 As I recall, Jolyrgr's fan with the radiators was a 2950 CFM bad boy that drew 10A, full load. Of course, since I am not with Star-Orion anymore, and haven't been for quite some time, he MAY have upgraded the fan offering, and superceded it with another part. But the original run of radiators, that was the spec on the fan. Tim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ucw458 Posted June 26, 2011 Report Share Posted June 26, 2011 If you want to try a cheap alternative you can try a fan from a 90-95 ford escort. They are great fans. They push alot of air and have 2 speeds. High speed is usually for when the AC is on but you could just wire up the high speed to your controller. It's either high speed or low speed. 3 wires, ground, low and high. Just use ground and high because energizing both low and high wires only gives you low speed. Escort fan on top of SQ radiator.http://i463.photobucket.com/albums/qq352/ucw458/Starquest%20saves/DSC03528.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StarquestRescue Posted June 26, 2011 Report Share Posted June 26, 2011 Bear in mind there is probably a reason the primary fan is on the pass side of the radiator. Should of got the *DM radiator. Till a guy screws around finding fans that fit this cobbled together stuff he has saved nothing. Proper shrouding has a lot to do with good cooling. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UlrichWolf Posted June 26, 2011 Report Share Posted June 26, 2011 Bear in mind there is probably a reason the primary fan is on the pass side of the radiator. Proper shrouding has a lot to do with good cooling. This is also very true. Tim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Komeuppance Posted June 26, 2011 Report Share Posted June 26, 2011 With a 2 row cheap summit circle track radiator and 2 10" fans(no shroud), a healthy g54b will run cold as can be. When the fans kicked on you could watch the real temp gauge and stock temp gauge drop. The off point needed some adjustment, haha. If the engine was healthy, a 14" fan should be enough under normal circumstances... like idling in a parking lot. Compare it to a stock, properly working, cooling system, the primary fan is adequate. Either he's not running as hot as he thinks he is, or there is something wrong. Like low on coolant, fan hooked up backwards perhaps, AC condensor clogged up with dirt, worn out water pump impeller, clogged coolant passages, leaking gasket, cracked head. EDIT: maybe even a bad thermostat. -Robert Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dad Posted June 26, 2011 Report Share Posted June 26, 2011 From what i understand it ran cool with the stock radiator and fan clutch system, that he only wanted to upgrade. Myself I would toss the old system back in for the trip to PF. forecast there friday is 90 degrees and 94 degrees on Saturday. Dad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StarquestRescue Posted June 26, 2011 Report Share Posted June 26, 2011 From what i understand it ran cool with the stock radiator and fan clutch system, that he only wanted to upgrade. Myself I would toss the old system back in for the trip to PF. forecast there friday is 90 degrees and 94 degrees on Saturday. DadRandy, you pulling your trailer down there. I remember Cokes radiator gave out on the mountain run last year. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dad Posted June 26, 2011 Report Share Posted June 26, 2011 Randy, you pulling your trailer down there. I remember Cokes radiator gave out on the mountain run last year. Nope, trailer is staying home, truck uses too much gas, we are going to trust our quests to get us there and back, Dad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coke Posted June 27, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2011 Randy, you pulling your trailer down there. I remember Cokes radiator gave out on the mountain run last year. Yeah, a damn stick when thru it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted June 27, 2011 Report Share Posted June 27, 2011 If you want to try a cheap alternative you can try a fan from a 90-95 ford escort. They are great fans. They push alot of air and have 2 speeds. High speed is usually for when the AC is on but you could just wire up the high speed to your controller. It's either high speed or low speed. 3 wires, ground, low and high. Just use ground and high because energizing both low and high wires only gives you low speed. Escort fan on top of SQ radiator.http://i463.photobucket.com/albums/qq352/ucw458/Starquest%20saves/DSC03528.jpg I can attest those fans pull hard. Plus that big shroud sure does help. I've seen BMW fans and Ford fans being used on those SR20 240SX radiators. I'm sure they're also cheap at pick your part. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Metric-man Posted June 27, 2011 Report Share Posted June 27, 2011 Sometimes you can still have air trapped in the cooling system, even when the radiator looks positively full. What type of cap and over flow are you using? If you don't have a cooling system pressure tester, you can park or lift the vehicle so the front is elevated and the radiator neck is then significantly higher that the rest of the cooling system, to purge air pockets. http://www.arrowheadradiator.com/preventing_cylinder_head_gasket_and_cooling_system_failures.htm You can also try cleaning the contacts on your coolant temp gauge and the sensor itself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coke Posted June 28, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2011 Sometimes you can still have air trapped in the cooling system, even when the radiator looks positively full. What type of cap and over flow are you using? If you don't have a cooling system pressure tester, you can park or lift the vehicle so the front is elevated and the radiator neck is then significantly higher that the rest of the cooling system, to purge air pockets. http://www.arrowhead...em_failures.htm You can also try cleaning the contacts on your coolant temp gauge and the sensor itself. I've got a coolant pressure tester. It's sealed. I'm using the same cap I had on the stock radiator (I had no cooling problems, i just wanted to upgrade) (some upgrade THAT was ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dad Posted June 28, 2011 Report Share Posted June 28, 2011 Well, downgrade to that stock radiator/fan so we don't have to worry about you on the trip to pf and back. Dad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marso Posted July 2, 2011 Report Share Posted July 2, 2011 (edited) I don't understand the thinking of using a lower temp thermostat if your car is running hot. All it does is let the coolant circulate sooner and if the cooling system is sealed and working properly it usually will stay at any thermostat temp range. If you your car has a problem it will run hot no matter what temp stat you use. Example: if you have a 195 stat and the car is running 210' it will still get to 210 with a 160 stat but will take a little longer for coolant to absorb the heat. Also there is a reason engineers put high temp stats in engines. They run more efficient at a higher temp as long as the intake charge stays cool. Edited July 2, 2011 by marso Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shelby Posted July 3, 2011 Report Share Posted July 3, 2011 (edited) one thing i did find with my MM the truck rad was smaller then the standard quest radiator,,but with a fan clutch and good shrould it had no trouble keeping the engine cool even on the 100f days , so air flow across the rad is the key not the size of the rad but more on how effient the rad and fan system is i could run a full back to back 1/4 mile run #18 lbs boost and upon hiting the return road the temp was still normal , the tainers run the stock quest rad with both fans going had to run the fans to cool the engine down between runs , some times for 20 min or more Edited July 3, 2011 by Shelby Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indiana Posted July 3, 2011 Report Share Posted July 3, 2011 When you added the intercooler that blocks more of the air flowing up behind the bumper. The air dam is listed in the cooling system parts, it is how the air is collected that moves up behind the bumper support to pass through the core. When you stuck the intercooler in there and used the wide slot flatty stock air dam I'd say most of your air is going around the intercooler ends and that causes a pressure loss for what was to be concentrated to move up and instead it goes under the car. The air dam stock wasn't that great for collecting the air anyway on flatsiders and the air guide missing is worse. If it gets bad just take the header panel off and throw it in the back or at least remove the grill. That big license plate in the middle there screws up the air split that the bumper cover causes and the faster you go I'd say the worse it gets and the air might be pushed down to the ground and not enter the air dam hardly at all. That plate moves air up too high and too low. Why not try a blower in front of it and some smoke and see what it looks like. That temp. probe in the vid, that is close on the stat housing to the gauge but the radiator core at idle there's likely some air in the system and since that aluminum isn't in contact with the coolant it will be much cooler and that appears to be what it is saying. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v248/Cokedoctor/2011-03-22180156.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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