87B71Brad Posted January 14, 2011 Report Share Posted January 14, 2011 (edited) maybe the mass air has got dirty. did you replace the temp sensors them are cheap and caused mine to idle funny when mine came unplugged. Goodluck! Oh btw I cant say how beautiful your flatty is. I had a 85 technica (rip) it was identical to yours in ur sig. well other than the spoilers. Edited January 14, 2011 by 87B71Brad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert_n_family Posted January 14, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 14, 2011 Yet another stumble. The machine shop called me today. I took my exhaust manifold there to have the mounting surface milled so it's nice and flat. Well, it's got a crack. Fail Yet another delay now while I look for an exhaust manifold. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caliber308 Posted January 15, 2011 Report Share Posted January 15, 2011 Post for one here, in the Parts Wanted Forum. Bill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Rabbit1 Posted January 15, 2011 Report Share Posted January 15, 2011 I thought I saw one in the fs forum for $50.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indiana Posted January 15, 2011 Report Share Posted January 15, 2011 For 50 and shipping you could have it welded cheaper. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Rabbit1 Posted January 15, 2011 Report Share Posted January 15, 2011 For 50 and shipping you could have it welded cheaper.best bet. and have it stress relieved and flattened, should last a good while. have it ported too if you want to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert_n_family Posted January 15, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 15, 2011 (edited) OK. Plugs still didn't come in. Parts store keeps trying to sell me something else other than the BUR7ea-11's. They have them on order,or so they claim. Should have been here a few days ago. Anyways.. Changed cap/rotor. Nothing to write here about. Normal wear, nothing special. The car was warmed up before I did any testing. Did self diagnostic. 1 blink...pause....5 blinks. Code 5 was TPS. So I started doing the testing/resetting procedures. ISC motor whines after 15 seconds like it's supposed to. Voltage settled at .907 - .909 after the 15 second wait after turning the key to on. So from what I read this tested OK. I don't have a multimeter with a needle, nor did the parts store so I couldn't test the TPS completely. I did test the OHMS test and it also fell under a good spec, 3.7 Kilo Ohms, which is in spec. I checked voltage settings on the TPS and I don't know how but it was wayyyyyyy off. Last time I set it, I left at .500 volts. Today when I checked it, .26 volts. So, I readjusted it to .500, and made sure it didnt change after tightening it. Disconnected negative cable for 5 mins. Going to drive it home, about 15 miles, then do a self diagnostic again once I'm home. I'll update soon. By the way, I'm taking the manifold to a machine shop to get welded and the mating surface milled for flatness on Monday. Edited January 15, 2011 by Robert_n_family Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert_n_family Posted January 15, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 15, 2011 OK got home, checked error codes...nothing. Blink....pause....blink......pause.....blink.....etc. Has a new O2 sensor so I'm ruling that out. Hence, no more TPS error code. So she isn't cold to test, but I will late tonight or tomorrow morning. NEW ISSUE I have another issue that come up yesterday. Now while driving, as long as I'm idle - mid throttle, she's fine. Anything over mid and it bucks and won't go. It'll go 80 no problem on the highway, as long as I stay mid throttle or less getting there. I checked all clamps for possibility of a boost leak, They were all tight. Even when I tried to merge into traffic and gave it a tad more gas, she bucked and hesitated. In park, however, she's fine and will rev up with no issues. Soooo, what now? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raider 2.6 Posted January 15, 2011 Report Share Posted January 15, 2011 Mine may have been a spark plug. I had time to check it out today and with the car dead cold after sitting for about a week, I started it up and pulled one of the plug wires, it still idled the same. The wire arched at the cap so I pulled the plug and it was black as night. Got a new one and fired it back up. Won't say its resolved yet, but it looks promising. I'll have to wait for a 30 degree or colder day to start it and see how it goes. You'd think I would've checked that by now considering my carb'd 2.6 did the same thing last winter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vnomous1 Posted January 16, 2011 Report Share Posted January 16, 2011 OK got home, checked error codes...nothing. Blink....pause....blink......pause.....blink.....etc. Has a new O2 sensor so I'm ruling that out. Hence, no more TPS error code. So she isn't cold to test, but I will late tonight or tomorrow morning. NEW ISSUE http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/public/style_emoticons/default/angry.gif http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/public/style_emoticons/default/angry.gif http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/public/style_emoticons/default/angry.gif I have another issue that come up yesterday. Now while driving, as long as I'm idle - mid throttle, she's fine. Anything over mid and it bucks and won't go. It'll go 80 no problem on the highway, as long as I stay mid throttle or less getting there. I checked all clamps for possibility of a boost leak, They were all tight. Even when I tried to merge into traffic and gave it a tad more gas, she bucked and hesitated. In park, however, she's fine and will rev up with no issues. Soooo, what now? Rob, Have you cleaned and lubed your distributor assembly? New ignition pick-up..I thought you mentioned that in this thread somewhere. New vacuum advance may be needed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert_n_family Posted January 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2011 Rob, Have you cleaned and lubed your distributor assembly? New ignition pick-up..I thought you mentioned that in this thread somewhere. New vacuum advance may be needed. I did check it with the "popback test" when I was replacing the cap/rotor and it failed. I have a new pickup with distributor seal coming and should be here monday or tuesday. I'll be cleaning and relubricating it then when I replace the pickup. Got everything lined up I think, VC gasket and cleaner..markers...timing light....etc. I always get nervous pulling distributors, but I've read every guide I can get my hands on and I guess I'm as well armed as I can be. You think my vac advance may be the culprit? It's too dark and cold out there for me to check it now, but I should do that when I have it out replacing the dizzy stuff. No air compressor though...fail. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vnomous1 Posted January 16, 2011 Report Share Posted January 16, 2011 I did check it with the "popback test" when I was replacing the cap/rotor and it failed. I have a new pickup with distributor seal coming and should be here monday or tuesday. I'll be cleaning and relubricating it then when I replace the pickup. Got everything lined up I think, VC gasket and cleaner..markers...timing light....etc. I always get nervous pulling distributors, but I've read every guide I can get my hands on and I guess I'm as well armed as I can be. You think my vac advance may be the culprit? It's too dark and cold out there for me to check it now, but I should do that when I have it out replacing the dizzy stuff. No air compressor though...fail. Rob, Patience... before you pull the distributor, make sure the rotor is pointing to the no.1 plug and your timing mark is at 10 BTDC. Use a socket and ratchet and turn in the engine normal direction of rotation until the timing mark lines up. Remove distro, disassemble, clean/lubricate, reassemble with new parts and re-install. I strongly recommend a new vacuum advance if you have never replaced it. Start, let warm to operating temp, set timing back to 10 BTDC, done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert_n_family Posted January 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2011 Rob, Patience... before you pull the distributor, make sure the rotor is pointing to the no.1 plug and your timing mark is at 10 BTDC. Use a socket and ratchet and turn in the engine normal direction of rotation until the timing mark lines up. Remove distro, disassemble, clean/lubricate, reassemble with new parts and re-install. I strongly recommend a new vacuum advance if you have never replaced it. Start, let warm to operating temp, set timing back to 10 BTDC, done. Well I'll order a vac advance then on Monday. I'll get a Mitsu one unless I hear something great about aftermarket... Thanks for the advice man! Guess I should just redo the whole thing since it's coming out, huh? That only makes sense. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indiana Posted January 16, 2011 Report Share Posted January 16, 2011 If anything is leaking even a tiny bit in all those vacuum hoses that vac. adv. unit will not work. It Ts off to the pressure sensor, valve, Ts you need to check all those. All you have to do is just suck on a piece of hose and the arm from it moves right away and you see it if you remove the cap and rotor. If you cover the tip of the hose with your tongue and watch the arm it should stay pulled in. If it leaks it will move back out so its bad and you need to replace it. Even if your secondary air cleaner diaphragm is leaking, that effects the vac. adv. since they are tired together when the thermo valve is open. Any weak connection like at the EGR valve and all those systems are compromised. http://www.b2600turbo.com/images/86vachoses01.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert_n_family Posted January 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2011 Thanks Indiana, I'll double check all those lines and test that vac advance like you said tomorrow. I'm so ready to find this culprit. This is my DD and I gotta get her right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Rabbit1 Posted January 16, 2011 Report Share Posted January 16, 2011 No air compressor though...fail.if you have a small hand vacuum pump, what I did was use the discharge port to test the boost retard function. Worked good to 15psi. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert_n_family Posted January 20, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 20, 2011 *Update* Have plugs and new distributor pickup in hand ready to install this weekend. I did a breath test like Indiana said on the Vac Advance and it held 100% It looks fairly new so I'd expect it too. Anyways, yesterday it was somewhat warmer than it has been, over 20 degrees warmer actually. The car sputtered/kicked/spit zero times in the warmer weather. Even at initial "cold start" it started smooth and remained smooth. Today it was back to the normal cold and viola', it happened again. The roughness was back with the cold. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shelby Posted January 24, 2011 Report Share Posted January 24, 2011 do you have a bov on this car,,if so make 100% sure to block itoff so it can't leak,, also a lean condition may sound like a rich condition,, inspect the air boot real close arround the clamps at turbo,, and the rubber shim under the air boot , also the CTS is the main fuel mix controler test it for cold ohms and watch as it warms up for an open signal ,,one more place you can get oneheck of a airleak is the inj houseing mid houseing oring ,,this oring can cause fuel smell after boosting also Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Rabbit1 Posted January 24, 2011 Report Share Posted January 24, 2011 do you have a bov on this car,,if so make 100% sure to block itoff so it can't leak,, also a lean condition may sound like a rich condition,, inspect the air boot real close arround the clamps at turbo,, and the rubber shim under the air boot , also the CTS is the main fuel mix controler test it for cold ohms and watch as it warms up for an open signal ,,one more place you can get oneheck of a airleak is the inj houseing mid houseing oring ,,this oring can cause fuel smell after boosting alsothis rubber shim, is a thin rubber sleeve in between accordian boot and turbo inlet? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shelby Posted January 24, 2011 Report Share Posted January 24, 2011 this rubber shim, is a thin rubber sleeve in between accordian boot and turbo inlet? yes it must be there on a stock 12a and in good shape Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert_n_family Posted January 24, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 24, 2011 My accordian hose was trashed but the rubber shim on the turbo is perfect, along with a stuck jet valve in#4 cylinder and the #4 rocker arm tab for the JV broken. Additionally my exhaust manifold was cracked to hell and leaking and my injectors were leaking as well. My exhaust manifold is now replaced with one I had glass beaded, welded, and milled/resurfaced. I didnt have time to order a OEM exhaust gasket so I got a Fel-Pro. Re-installed turbo with Fel-Pro turbo mounting gasket set from Fel-Pro and new copper gaskets for water lines. Installed Mitsu fuel filter with new copper gaskets. I got a replacement accordian hose from the wonderful Collin Gibb. What a great guy that came through in a time of need! Once again the starquest community shines! Carefully with the 8" xerox q-tips I've had for a year cleaned the maf sensor and all areas around it making sure it was spotless.. Sending Brian at LSP a money order in about an hour for some injectors. Calling DAD in a few hours to order the JVE kit. Car does NOT have a BOV. It is an AUTO. I also got stuff to do an oil change do rid the fuel soaked oil. What else am I missing or need to do... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert_n_family Posted January 27, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2011 (edited) Well after some new parts and alot of knuckle busting she's fixed. What was it that was wrong...take your pick: 1. Leaking and probably crud filled injectors (I replaced injectors with delphi's) 2. Arm to #4 jet valve broken off and jet valve stuck in open position. (Did a JVE kit) 3. Fuel filter was clogged (I had no idea, I wanted to change with a mitsu unit just because and glad I did) 4. Exhaust manifold was cracked in 3, yes 3, places! (Replaced manifold with one I had that I took to get glass beaded, welded and milled/resurfaced) 5. Replaced BPR7xx-11 plugs with BUR7ea-11's. 6. Supercleaned MAF with alcohol and q-tips to remove any grease/grime. 7. Accordian hose crumbled to pieces upon removal and apparently was only holding on by a thread. Unmetered air FTW. Replaced unit with a Gibb Racing model. (Hahaha) Guys, I can't emphasize how much I appreciate all of the input I received in solving these issues on my daily driver. I may not be the best at searching. I type it in and a million things come up. I guess you have to use + and - symbols or whatever, I'll learn that someday. I'm sure my car isn't the first car to do these things either, but it is the first car to do them to me. Thank you again, each and every one of you, who helped me get my girl back on the road again. Now for my happy, HAPPY, part......She's faster than she's ever been in my entire having her. Ever since I picked her up from the PO she hasn't been this quick. I don't know if it's the Delphi's or what, but wow. I love starquests Edited January 27, 2011 by Robert_n_family Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raider 2.6 Posted January 27, 2011 Report Share Posted January 27, 2011 Which fuel filter? Were your plugs black? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert_n_family Posted January 27, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2011 (edited) Which fuel filter? Were your plugs black? MB504732 - The filter in the engine bay just down from the relay tree. The filters in the tank were changed when I did my fuel pump a year ago and the conical filter was as well. The plugs were extremely black, with the tips of the electrode looking like a wart. I really don't know how to describe it otherwise. Whiteish yet dingy but just on the tip, crusty looking. Edited January 27, 2011 by Robert_n_family Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IntercooledFlatty Posted January 27, 2011 Report Share Posted January 27, 2011 FLATTY LOVE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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