Raider 2.6

What page(s) in the FSM?

The most noticeable issue is the "common wear point" shown in that picture. My plan is to remove the pedal and replace the bushings at the top, clutch switch pad (currently missing, clutch switch wasn't being depressed), and the pin/rod thing. Mostly want to get the pedal out to see if I need to drill it out and use a bushing as PQ and a few others have mentioned/recommended. Are you saying I need to find that point at which A/B/C is in a straight line and there shouldn't be any force holding the spring in place? I'd like to avoid removing the entire bracket if possible.

I must be doing something wrong, the return spring won't budge from the bracket/perch. The FSM simply mentions inserting the spring on the pedal side then depressing the pedal to install the bracket side as a note for the installation process, but I don't see anything for removal. I have the clip unbolted from the bracket and the clutch switch removed, but it doesn't seem to matter whether the pedal is fully retracted or depressed, the spring is still solid in both the pedal and bracket. Doesn't help that I'm laying under the dash with limited mobility wt....

So this just showed up on my list of things to do. I don't see any info on safely/properly jacking up the car in the rear. I see mention on the crossmember, but do you jack it up one side at a time? Does it matter if wheels are left hanging or do they need to be supported somehow? I read something a while back about someone pulling an axle out of the housing by letting the arm(s) drop all the way, is that right? I just got under this thing today and it looks like every piece of rubber from the transmission mounts back will need replacing

So new hardware, probably take a wire brush to the turbo/downpipe studs, and a new manifold gasket. Looks like the turbo/downpipe gaskets are reusable, right? I need to use anti-sieze on the studs, head side? No loctite or anything?

Short story long, this car has had a ticking since I got it. I met up with Ken a little while ago and had him take a look see in the ol engine bay. Amongst other things we found that under acceleration you could see a puff of smoke come out the rear most cylinder between the head and manifold. There seemed to be an aweful lot of red rtv between the manifold/gasket/head, but all the studs looked to be intact. I finally got it apart to see what all I was in for: http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b240/jamez38/Starion/DSC03003.jpg http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b240/jamez38/Starion/DSC03000.jpg http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b240/jamez38/Starion/DSC03001.jpg I figure the first step would be to order new hardware. I would have to order at least a few nuts/washers considering some were replaced with whatever they had laying around and the turbo was mounted with 3 of the 4 bolts. I have a few questions concerning the reconditioning of the remaining parts, however. How do you properly install studs in the head? (head on engine, engine in car) Can I get away with using a die on the turbo studs? Should I just hit the phone book and look for machine shops to handle the manifold? Do I need to ask what they would charge to "plane" the manifold? For those who have had to do this, what did you do about the webbing? I may come up with something else as I go, this is my first experience with a turbo manifold and whatnot.

Would a jumpy speedo be the prelude to this situation? Do they typically work and then just stop working when something snaps?

Did you get it jason? Where are you in Tulsa? Be nice to have a local source for parts

Ken is just too helpful.....and hard to catch, did you already visit/leave Tulsa Ken?

Is it gone? I had left a message, figured since I didn't hear back, that was the case

So I've called, might try to put a plan together to get a truck/trailer and go get the damn thing

PQ has a helpful thread of how to remove the door panels properly, but I haven't come across an actual door/window/general maintenance thread/post. As with most old cars the innards are a bit loose/lopsided and I'm fairly certain I could take the panels off and with the help of the FSM/parts catalog, identify the worn/broken bits. I would probably need to cross my fingers pretty hard before looking to see if said parts are still available. Has anyone straightened out a lopsided power window? Replaced worn parts in the door? Replaced a whole power window assembly maybe? This is the PQ thread I was referring to: http://starquest.i-x.net/viewtopic.php?t=1214 Primarily I need to clean the switches (covered by PQ and others), check on the alignment of the window tracks (lost here), replace the upper panels (easy enough) and generally clean/lube the insides.

I'd go get it if I had a truck/trailer http://oklahomacity.craigslist.org/cto/2554867835.html

The connector on my '87 has very little slack in there, be careful about pulling on things when you are disconnecting it and reconnecting it. I had an issue where the gauge wouldn't read at all so I took the unit out to see what was up. I ended up taking the case apart and slightly bending the arm toward the coil looking thing that it is supposed to rub against to change resistance. That seemed to have done the trick as it is still reading and appears to be accurate enough. Not sure about the light though, mine comes and goes no matter the amount of fuel. Let us know if you figure that out

I didn't replace all my hoses, but when I did the TB I tried to get factory pieces and the only one I could find was number 16 in that diagram. The two L's can be purchased from a parts house (NAPA in my case) as well as the S shaped hose. I want to say the three I mentioned were about $14 each. Would've been a lot cheaper if the factory hoses were available

I hope you get it figured out Ken, you can help me troubleshoot my a/c when you get here

I just went through the TB rebuild process (minus the shaft seals and injector cleaning ) and it has made a difference. It was a good time to replace those hoses under/behind the intake and clean/test the EGR valve too. As advised in threads and PQ's posts, I replaced the cone filter with a generic fuel filter as well. In my case the TB looked original and was obviously leaking fuel both at the intake and between the housing pieces. I've put about half a tank through it since and the mileage looks to have increased, but I'll do some actual calculations at fill-up to confirm. Also runs a good bit smoother and response is as good as it has been since I got ahold of it.

I recently replaced mine as well and noticed a big difference between aftermarket (which is what it had) and factory units. The factory filter came with the bracket already tightened on the filter and there are guides at the top and bottom so the hoses are oriented correctly. The housing also has ridges stamped in to fit the bracket in a certain way and is clearly stamped IN/OUT.The aftermarket filter had a guide that went all the way around so you can point the hoses in whatever direction you want and the filter housing is smooth so it can be tightened into the bracket in any orientation. i didn't actually see an IN/OUT on the aftermarket filter, but maybe there was just an arrow or something I missed.

Is the general concensus around here that the old school brake pedal method is the "best" for these cars? I've been contemplating the purchase of a powered unit to use with my compressor for the next bleed job. Last time I paid a shop to do it, they used a pressure vessel looking thing to push fluid from the MC reservoir out to the calipers and it was effective. That was on a different car without any type of ABS, however. I'm sure I'll be in the same boat in the not too distant future, trying to be prepared

Did you do that yourself? Wondering if I'd need to find a machine shop or some general auto repair for something like that. I'll be tearing the exhaust off after I get the fuel stuff sorted

So the '87 cars retard timing when knock is detected and the '88-89 cars retard timing AND reduce boost?

As mentioned before, pressure check the cooling system, I think you can rent a tester for $30, which you get back.

This Ken guy, always producing I'm about to grab another ISC from Texan which is supposedly a good working ISC. This will allow me to completely disassemble mine without fear of it not working again. Looks like train grease will make it on my grocery list. I have some wheel bearing grease, but like you said it just seems overkill for such a small device. Is it the windshield wiper motor that is generally lubed with wheelbearing grease?

I decided to disassemble it due to random low/high idle issues. Not that it couldn't be caused by a host of other things, but once out of the car I have noticed the idle switch sticks and now it may be missing a spring. There is also the poor condition of that intake ground strap and whatnot so I'm going through each component. Either way, I've got a few local hobby shops I can check to get grease. Only problem is figuring out exactly what needs greased and how to get to it. I don't think removing the plate and that plastic piece (the stuff protruding from the rubber gasket in the pics above) will allow sufficient access to the greaseable parts. I also don't want to destroy it by prying or pulling on something too hard. I may check with Texan anyway so I can at least cobble together one complete and hopefully working ISC. I would surmise this is just the beginning of being a Starion/Quest owner

So I'm in the process of replacing filters and rebuilding the TB as well as a few other things I didn't know about until I tore into it. Anyhoo, few questions about the ISC: According to PQ's pictures, you should have this once you've removed the mounting plate thing: http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d182/Professor-Quest123/Fuel2/IS-1.jpg It appeared mine either didn't have the spring or it fell out in such a manner that I didn't notice. There is, however, a black rubber gasket looking piece at the top of the dome that came out. I don't see that pictured in PQ's writeup. Is that rubber piece in addition to the spring? If so, maybe someone has one laying around There aren't any detailed pics in the writeup pertaining to lubing the gears either. After removing the sensor and that long spring, where do you go? Does the motor just pull out of the housing with some force? I've removed the clip holding it in place, seems it will spin and slightly pull out, but stops. Also, the search feature doesn't like "ISC" at all.