89 Quest Build Thread

[BIGbCraig]

Hyper-Eutectic pistons?

 

I'm not doubting you, I'm definitely not familiar with these 4G engines, but will ask some cautionary questions... I know that the Subaru EJ25's have a lot of problems with the factory Hyper-U's... even as low-power as stock STIs, people have cracked pistons. Note that the EJ25 is quite a large-bore, short-stroke engine, and I do not know what the 'quest's is.

 

But I'd still doubt the reliability of Hyper-U's until looking into it further. They are indeed nicer as far as cold-start emissions and longevity - both because the heat expansion will closely imitate steel cylinder liners as opposed to forged pistons - but not as strong.

[I WE TODD ED]

Hyper-Eutectic pistons?

 

I'm not doubting you, I'm definitely not familiar with these 4G engines, but will ask some cautionary questions... I know that the Subaru EJ25's have a lot of problems with the factory Hyper-U's... even as low-power as stock STIs, people have cracked pistons. Note that the EJ25 is quite a large-bore, short-stroke engine, and I do not know what the 'quest's is.

 

But I'd still doubt the reliability of Hyper-U's until looking into it further. They are indeed nicer as far as cold-start emissions and longevity - both because the heat expansion will closely imitate steel cylinder liners as opposed to forged pistons - but not as strong.

 

Who is this guy?! lol

[JAinsworth]

Who is this guy?! lol

 

Maybe the question should be "who are you" with only one post questioning others??

Jimmy

[Frenchi934]

Day 6: (7-1-10)

 

Today was mostly housekeeping. I did some research on a few things and also got a new parts washer and a new sand blaster (gravity feed). Should begin to really get into the engine tommorrow..

[Fanta]

Hyper-Eutectic pistons?

 

I'm not doubting you, I'm definitely not familiar with these 4G engines, but will ask some cautionary questions... I know that the Subaru EJ25's have a lot of problems with the factory Hyper-U's... even as low-power as stock STIs, people have cracked pistons. Note that the EJ25 is quite a large-bore, short-stroke engine, and I do not know what the 'quest's is.

 

But I'd still doubt the reliability of Hyper-U's until looking into it further. They are indeed nicer as far as cold-start emissions and longevity - both because the heat expansion will closely imitate steel cylinder liners as opposed to forged pistons - but not as strong.

 

Ooooh, let me correct you, these engines are not 4G's as in the 4G62,x63 or 64. These are a 2.6L G54B.

 

As for Hyper-U's - ironically enough, they've been pretty successful thus far on our cars. Jahjah's is built with those and it's running the multiport intake fuel system. Don't blame you on being cautious though, it means you're engine is going ot probably outlast most people who rebuild theirs

 

 

Who is this guy?! lol

 

Who's this retard - I mean, WE TODD?

 

 

Maybe the question should be "who are you" with only one post questioning others??

Jimmy

 

Word

 

 

Day 6: (7-1-10)

 

Today was mostly housekeeping. I did some research on a few things and also got a new parts washer and a new sand blaster (gravity feed). Should begin to really get into the engine tommorrow..

 

Also, as a tip, since you took the engine out this way but...

 

Put the engine back in with the manifolds attached. Again, you're life will be easier. Also the bottom portion of the throttle body on the intake as well.

 

Be sure to buy an OEM Mitsubishi exhaust manifold gasket from say, Dad ( www.enginemachineservice.com ) as it's a multi-layered steel gasket, versus the FelPro, which is a fiber type, and typically burns through.

 

Also, don't be surprised if you come to discover your exhaust manifold no longer lines up to the ports and bolts on the head.

[Frenchi934]

 

Also, as a tip, since you took the engine out this way but...

 

Put the engine back in with the manifolds attached. Again, you're life will be easier. Also the bottom portion of the throttle body on the intake as well.

 

Be sure to buy an OEM Mitsubishi exhaust manifold gasket from say, Dad ( www.enginemachineservice.com ) as it's a multi-layered steel gasket, versus the FelPro, which is a fiber type, and typically burns through.

 

Also, don't be surprised if you come to discover your exhaust manifold no longer lines up to the ports and bolts on the head.

 

Thanks for the tip man

 

but what the heck do I do if the exhaust manifold doesnt line back up with the bolts? o.O

[Minagera]

Thanks for the tip man

 

but what the heck do I do if the exhaust manifold doesnt line back up with the bolts? o.O

 

"Stress Relieve" the manifold Take a hack saw, or band saw if you are lucky, and cut the webbing in between the runners. If it doesn't line up, you can take some flathead screw drivers and help it line up.

 

Really you should Stress Relieve it anyway so you have less of a chance to crack the runners with the thermo-expansion...

[Minagera]

Hyper-Eutectic pistons?

 

I'm not doubting you, I'm definitely not familiar with these 4G engines, but will ask some cautionary questions... I know that the Subaru EJ25's have a lot of problems with the factory Hyper-U's... even as low-power as stock STIs, people have cracked pistons. Note that the EJ25 is quite a large-bore, short-stroke engine, and I do not know what the 'quest's is.

 

But I'd still doubt the reliability of Hyper-U's until looking into it further. They are indeed nicer as far as cold-start emissions and longevity - both because the heat expansion will closely imitate steel cylinder liners as opposed to forged pistons - but not as strong.

 

Craig,

 

I do agree with you on teh Hyper-U's to a point, however the problem most people fast is they give the pistons too much clearance when they are installed. Hyper-U's tend to only need .001-.004" of clearance because they expand very very little.

 

Personally I have run both Hypers and Forged. Both work fine for a street build.

[Fanta]

Thanks for the tip man

 

but what the heck do I do if the exhaust manifold doesnt line back up with the bolts? o.O

 

 

Stress relieve it unless it's ridiculously warped ( on my original palermo engine we literally drilled a new hole for the bolt )

 

If it's really warped, again, Dad has what you need ( and for what it's worth, his customer service is beyond exceptional )

[JAinsworth]

Stress relieved manifold, note the gaps between the runners:

 

http://img22.imageshack.us/img22/2623/101syh.jpg

[Komeuppance]

That you may want to ask in the Engine Build section.

 

From what I've come to understand though, going with forged pistons such as wiseco's don't really make much HP difference ( unless you're shooting for big numbers )

 

Pistons don't "make power". Stronger pistons allow for more power to be made before materials failure, but pistons alone do not increase power. There is a slight gain from an increase in compression ratio. Going to a larger bore is negligible in power increase, more weight, higher stressed block rods and crank.

 

-Robert

[Big Al]

Oh c'mon you buncha nancy boys. I pulled 2 seperate blocks with nothing more than a tow rope and 3 people total. Who needs a hoist?!?!?!

 

I'm pretty sure I have forged pistons in my engine and haven't had a lick of trouble with mine yet. My problems all seem to be on my exhaust. Leaks from the manifold to the turbo, leaks from the turbo to the downpipe... REALLY starting to urk me. I'll likely end up replacing the manifold when I get some extra $ to play with.

 

The setup I have I went with the forged pistons and Dad's lightened and shot peened rods. I WAS going to do pressed wristpins but the shop screwed the pooch for me there and stuck floaters in. I have mixed feelings on that but so far I've had no trouble from them almost 2 years and over 10k miles later so I guess they worked out fine.

 

What I DO recommend is doing your research, figuring out EVERYTHING you want to do NOW before you dig in and start working. Do this right the first time and do the major upgrades now (pistons, head, etc). That way you aren't having to redo all this work again later for an upgrade you want or whatnot. Since you'll already be rebuilding the engine, why not consider an NJV head instead of a JVE kit? Just things to think about and keep in mind.

 

Definitely make sure to replace the oil pump. The chain went which means something obviously bound and forced it to snap which could have torqued the shaft in the oil pump as well. Do you REALLY want to risk it and run the old pump since you're already in that deep as is? Better to be safe than sorry. When that pump DOES go you likely WILL spin a bearing.

 

On another note, you've already been running on no oil pressure. REPLACE THE BEARINGS. I don't care if they "look" good or not. They aren't THAT expensive and again in the long run you'll save yourself head and heart ache by doing it now and doing it properly. Just remember to do the proper tests when you replace them so that you KNOW everything is done right.

[BOHO]

This is a great thread...Looks like you really like the car and are willing to put some time into it...And you listen...wow...this should be a nice car when you are done.

[Frenchi934]

Day 7: (7-2-10)

 

Today I got to use the new parts washing bin

haha

 

Began to disassemble the engine. Here you can see that the timing cover was removed and you'll notice the missing chain:

 

http://img404.imageshack.us/img404/2366/sdc10461x.jpg

 

It was a little strange to find that the balance shafts spun freely as did the oil pump..

Then pulled the cam... There was a minimal amount of scoring where the cam rotates... still have to check and see if it's in clearances but might end up with a Nonjet head afterall..

 

http://img412.imageshack.us/img412/3149/sdc10465t.jpg

 

Heres a shot to show how the cylinders have been burning. The spark plugs seemed to tell the same story.

 

http://img443.imageshack.us/img443/8547/sdc10466.jpg

 

Heres a shot of the under side of the head:

 

http://img22.imageshack.us/img22/2161/sdc10470q.jpg

 

Got the head completely disassembled and cleaned.. next was the crank, rods and pistons:

 

http://img199.imageshack.us/img199/6457/sdc10469d.jpg

 

We used a cylinder reamer to clean the carbon off the rim of the cylinders:

 

http://img228.imageshack.us/img228/6002/sdc10474l.jpg

 

Then flipped the engine over and started on the bottom end:

 

http://img715.imageshack.us/img715/7803/sdc10471m.jpg

 

SUPRISE FIND: (sarcasm)

The number two rod bearing had spun lol

 

http://img411.imageshack.us/img411/3301/sdc10483z.jpg

 

http://img18.imageshack.us/img18/1899/sdc10485e.jpg

 

http://img16.imageshack.us/img16/5642/sdc10484w.jpg

 

End of the day:

 

http://img27.imageshack.us/img27/892/sdc10488lv.jpg

 

http://img689.imageshack.us/img689/4200/sdc10489m.jpg

 

http://img291.imageshack.us/img291/664/sdc10490q.jpg

[Frenchi934]

This is a great thread...Looks like you really like the car and are willing to put some time into it...And you listen...wow...this should be a nice car when you are done.

 

haha thats the plan!

Also thanks for all the input guys it really makes things easier.

[Frenchi934]

Stress relieved manifold, note the gaps between the runners:

 

http://img22.imageshack.us/img22/2623/101syh.jpg

 

The discription was good but this picture is worth a thousand words haha

Thanks for taking the time to help me out

[Big Al]

Yeah I was pretty sure you'd spun #2. Seems to be the one to bite it when the oil pump isn't working. Though yours doesn't look nearly as bad as mine. I ended up getting the crank turned due to the scoring on #2 and used a whole different block since I didn't want to play games with the spun block.

[Frenchi934]

This weekend I didn't do too much work haha. But I did clean all the parts I took out of the engine, cleaned the engine block, and am starting to make a parts list. Calling machine shops tomorrow to get quotes on things I need to get done.

 

Ill post up the parts list as soon as I finish checking prices and such.

[JAinsworth]

Looking at the pics of the pistons, 2 and 3 are not stockers. Notice the half moon grooves in them compared to 1 and 4...and the lack of the "t" stamped on them. I would recommend getting matching pistons for all cylinders.

Jimmy

[Tipsysmile]

They both have "T" stamped on em in the pics i see. At least the pics of them in the block do. Edited July 6, 2010 by Tipsysmile

[Frenchi934]

Looking at the pics of the pistons, 2 and 3 are not stockers. Notice the half moon grooves in them compared to 1 and 4...and the lack of the "t" stamped on them. I would recommend getting matching pistons for all cylinders.

Jimmy

 

All pistons are identical, perhaps the picture doesn't show it well but they all say "t" as well as 1.00 (im guessing 1 mm overbore)

the cylinder checks out to be in the limits of a 1mm overbore

[Minagera]

All pistons are identical, perhaps the picture doesn't show it well but they all say "t" as well as 1.00 (im guessing 1 mm overbore)

the cylinder checks out to be in the limits of a 1mm overbore

 

Interesting. Do you have a caliper to measure the piston/cylinder. Just curious what it read total.

[Frenchi934]

Interesting. Do you have a caliper to measure the piston/cylinder. Just curious what it read total.

 

yes. I have a digital caliper. I have what it measured written down out in the garage I'll post it tomorrow.

[19cturbo]

They both have "T" stamped on em in the pics i see. At least the pics of them in the block do.

 

yes they do, cut jimmy a little slack, we are unsure of how much cough medecine he consumed during the weekend, or maybe he is finishing it up?

[I WE TODD ED]

Im back haha

 

I was just messing around with my friend BigbCraig. I'm also a student at the Georgia Institute of Technology.

 

Looks good, Frenchi