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hydraulic handbrake install


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I have been wanting to install one of these forever but do not wish to compromise the most important thing on my car. I have no ABS and would like to install on of these. I drew up a little diagram of what I believe is the correct way of installing these in line. Does anyone have any experience with this. Are there any check valves or anything required???

 

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t168/food28/ebrakediagram.jpg

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Ohio DOT says those are not legal for street cars. Your state may vary. Wilwood makes a mechanical only caliper that works for a parking brake if that's what your looking for. If your looking for hydraulic for drifting, just keep the actuated calipers hooked to the stock handbrake lever to keep it street legal.

 

Disclaimer: Yes I realize the chances of getting caught with this are highly unlikely, but if you have luck anything like mine, you cya.

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Not really a street car. Pretty much a track car. If there is one thing I despise about our cars it is the handbrake setup. On the 3 I have not one of them could lock the rear wheels. I kept adjusting the brake but it was dragging the brakes. Either way. Really want this.
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http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/partdetails/K_Sport/Interior/E_Brake_Handles/Hydraulic/13420

 

Something like that is simpler, as it integrates into your already existing brake lines.

 

I do hope you realize though, this is in no way street legal.

 

You don't need a check valve - if you did have them, it wouldn't work.

 

http://i44.tinypic.com/14ca4ua.jpg

 

 

240 forums would better explain how it all works

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Cool. Thanks. So my diagram was correct for our cars? I have been looking at those k sport handbrakes. Are our lines 3/4 or 5/8? So after it is installed did you just keep bleeding the rear calipers or did you do all 4?
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I've installed a handful of hydro e-brakes on several cars, and those diagrams are confusing in my eyes.

 

Quite simply:

 

-Run the ABS delete line [assuming you have one since you said your car has no ABS] to the hydraulic brake inlet

-Run the hydro brake outlet to the line going to the rear brakes

-Mount hydro brake

-?

-Profit.

 

So long as the hydro brake is AFTER the proportioning valve but BEFORE the split between the rear wheels, it'll function properly.

 

As far as check valves are concerned, I know first-hand the K-Sport unit has one built-in. Normal braking is unchanged.

Edited by Dave-O
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I will be doing this aswell and also was looking into the k sport ones, seems like a decent piece. I do agree stock ebrakes suck fat nuts in these cars. Thought about running a seperate caliper for the coolness... dont think its worth it tho
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A hydraulic handbrake is much better than the stock handbrake. You dont have to run hard lines to install a handbrake, you can use -3 steel braided lines like you would for the brake calipers so it makes it easier to tie it all in.
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So when it says 3/4 reservoir or 5/8 reservoir does this just mean how much fluid the handle is moving or does it affect the lines necessary for the car. I thought all cars used the same lines?
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I just talked to my friend about what he has. He has two cars both different. The first car runs just the hydro brake tapped into the rear brakes, the second(better built car) has a seperate set of calipers to run its own system. He says its much better while drifting because it doesn't interfear with the regular braking system. When your trying to slow down (while sideways), you can feel it in the pedal when you use both at the same time. Not always a bad thing, just different, and sometimes bothersome. He had a lot of trouble in the begining getting it dialed in correctly with the proportioning valve he was running. The new ones might be different, and it might not be a problem at all... Making a separate caliper bracket would be a PIA on our cars....

 

 

Just what I heard...

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I kept considering running separate calipers but to pay someone to cut steel for a bracket then buying extra calipers (extra weight) it just seemed to run a lot more money then I was willing to spend right now.

 

Anyways whats with the reservoir sizes???????

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I kept considering running separate calipers but to pay someone to cut steel for a bracket then buying extra calipers (extra weight) it just seemed to run a lot more money then I was willing to spend right now.

 

Anyways whats with the reservoir sizes???????

 

It the size of the piston in the master cylinder.

 

Here's a link to Wilwood http://www.wilwood.com/Start/Centers/Information/pages/faqs_6.asp that talks about what size master cylinder should be correct for your application.

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i cant seem to find jsut the cylinder, seems liek thats the only part that you cant make yourself. the design is different from a regular brake MC right, so you cant jsut ghetto rig something from a spare MC.
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i cant seem to find jsut the cylinder, seems liek thats the only part that you cant make yourself. the design is different from a regular brake MC right, so you cant jsut ghetto rig something from a spare MC.

They make all kinds of M/C for use with a handbrake the problem is it's just easier to puchase a complete handbrake with M/C. Look a Wilwood for single M/C

Edited by perfhosedist
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I talked with a customer yesterday about hydraulic handbrakes and he said make sure you run separate calipers on the rear for it. It does mess with your brake system some if you just put it in-line. He said you can't left foot brake the car and pull the handbrake at the same time without it effecting the front brake.
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If you've got a properly-functioning proportioning valve, it affects front braking very little. I actually had to switch the location of one of my hydro brakes to after the prop valve to minimize the effect.
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