on4now4 Posted June 8, 2009 Report Share Posted June 8, 2009 (edited) well im thinking something like 17x8 on the front and 18x11or12 on the rear with a more fin kind of design on the spokes that would suck air in to cool the breaks. this is a quick drawing i did of how the spokes might look http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p209/on4now4/untitled-3-1.jpg what i need to know is what offset i would need to get these to fit can anyone tell me that so that i can try and get a price estimate this week. this was started in the custom tires thread http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=92301 people that would want some alexnyc Edited June 29, 2009 by on4now4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Komeuppance Posted June 8, 2009 Report Share Posted June 8, 2009 How close do you want them to the fenders?? I'm running 16x8 -10's with 225/50's... and it's about 15mm too far out. Rears, I'm also running the same size but with a 25mm spacer, and it's just about perfect. Front: 17x8 +5 Rear: 17x8 -35 That's what I'd like to see. -Robert Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrazilBoy Posted June 8, 2009 Report Share Posted June 8, 2009 I like the step staggered it would give our cars a whole new look..maybe someone can photochop it for us.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dem0ntsi Posted June 8, 2009 Report Share Posted June 8, 2009 Id be in for 17s or 18s, 9j front with a -3 offset and a 10j rear with -18 offset Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D_Venable Posted June 8, 2009 Report Share Posted June 8, 2009 Id be in for 17s or 18s, 9j front with a -3 offset and a 10j rear with -18 offset Not everyone wants the lip of the rim flush with the outside of the fender, as many of us want to go lower, and those offsets just won't work with out ungodly amounts of neg camber (also what most of us try to eliminate). for the front of a 17, or 18 x 9, you'll want about a 10mm t be right to the inside of the fender, it will require rolling if lowered though. and on a 17 or 18 x 10, you'll want about a 0mm or -5mm to go with the front. will also require fender rolling if lowering. now this should allow you to run tires that are NOT stretched on the rim (which I do NOT like) with just fender rolling for lowering Derek Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrazilBoy Posted June 8, 2009 Report Share Posted June 8, 2009 (edited) :iagree: If you could get stock fitment as much as possible then those who like super flush will need just a minor spacer... Edited June 8, 2009 by BrazilBoy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dem0ntsi Posted June 8, 2009 Report Share Posted June 8, 2009 Not everyone wants the lip of the rim flush with the outside of the fender, as many of us want to go lower, and those offsets just won't work with out ungodly amounts of neg camber (also what most of us try to eliminate). for the front of a 17, or 18 x 9, you'll want about a 10mm t be right to the inside of the fender, it will require rolling if lowered though. and on a 17 or 18 x 10, you'll want about a 0mm or -5mm to go with the front. will also require fender rolling if lowering. now this should allow you to run tires that are NOT stretched on the rim (which I do NOT like) with just fender rolling for lowering Derek I can understand that(everyone has their taste) but in a couple of months Ill show everyone how good it will look :thumbsup: I was thinking that you would be able to get a custom offset since these would be manufactured. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrazilBoy Posted June 8, 2009 Report Share Posted June 8, 2009 I can understand that(everyone has their taste) but in a couple of months Ill show everyone how good it will look :thumbsup: I was thinking that you would be able to get a custom offset since these would be manufactured. To do them individually then the cost would be to high instead a run of lets say 20 sets all the same should be cheaper... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
starquestJOE Posted June 8, 2009 Report Share Posted June 8, 2009 can you say Iroc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
strang3majik Posted June 8, 2009 Report Share Posted June 8, 2009 yeah...I say, if you're going to do this, make them just like the stock wheels, only bigger. Those do look like Iroc wheels...though... but, as far as better cooling for the brakes.... 1. If you're getting your brakes that hot that the wheels are what stands between them not disintegrating...theres bigger problems... 2. Mitsu seemed to design everything on these cars pretty well, so, I'd venture to say that the stock wheels are pretty good for cooling. 3. Bigger wheels = less confined space around brakes...so...already better cooling 4. Tell people to get better pads/rotors Like I said...take the stock wheel...just make it larger. The unique spoke design is what makes our wheels cool. Thats just me though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrazilBoy Posted June 8, 2009 Report Share Posted June 8, 2009 Tyler is right keep them like the OE as much as possible...Just bump up the size from a 16" to 17"8fr & 18"10rr..Offer different coatings or polish to make them more unique It will be easier to construct and fit on our cars.... If the brakes get that hot switch to slotted rotors and Hawk pads or something... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Posted June 8, 2009 Report Share Posted June 8, 2009 I'm interested in a set of 17" rims that mimic OEM. The 18" OEM rims on my Audi 2.7T daily driver have had 2 tires bubble and 1 blowout due to their low profile in the last 12 months. Replacement tires are expensive and 17"s are more forgiving than 18"s. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrazilBoy Posted June 8, 2009 Report Share Posted June 8, 2009 Who can photochop us a view on these? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patra_is_here Posted June 8, 2009 Report Share Posted June 8, 2009 why not just machine just 1 peice for the centers and then use off the shelf wheel lips to make what ever offset and width people want? it would keep costs down as well. you know, just make it a true three peice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyW Posted June 8, 2009 Report Share Posted June 8, 2009 I agree with 17" front & rear.. I'm just not a fan of dif dia front and rear look. Plus 17's you can get in any size under the sun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jszucs Posted June 8, 2009 Report Share Posted June 8, 2009 Not everyone wants the lip of the rim flush with the outside of the fender, as many of us want to go lower, and those offsets just won't work with out ungodly amounts of neg camber (also what most of us try to eliminate). for the front of a 17, or 18 x 9, you'll want about a 10mm t be right to the inside of the fender, it will require rolling if lowered though. and on a 17 or 18 x 10, you'll want about a 0mm or -5mm to go with the front. will also require fender rolling if lowering. now this should allow you to run tires that are NOT stretched on the rim (which I do NOT like) with just fender rolling for lowering Derek Agreed if your trying to make your wheel lips flush your sitting to high. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
on4now4 Posted June 8, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 8, 2009 am i really the only one that has a prob with heat in the breaks alright i guess i will try and get prices for a oem 17x9x10 and a 17x10x0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Posted June 8, 2009 Report Share Posted June 8, 2009 Is there really a need for a 9" wide front rim? Also price out 17 x 8 front and 17 x 9 rear with OEM offset. Thanks, Dan am i really the only one that has a prob with heat in the breaks alright i guess i will try and get prices for a oem 17x9x10 and a 17x10x0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jszucs Posted June 8, 2009 Report Share Posted June 8, 2009 I doubt there is a need for anything wider then a 17 X 8 upfront. I would say the widest you could run (and still run them hard, be lowered and not rub when turning hard) would be a 245 maybe a 255 upfront and a 8" wide rim is plenty for that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dem0ntsi Posted June 8, 2009 Report Share Posted June 8, 2009 Agreed if your trying to make your wheel lips flush your sitting to high. Nah, Ive calculated those offsets from experience. Im running 17x9 -1 offset right now and its flush in the front.. 17x9 -20 in the back and theres still room. im factoring in the negative camber when I go lower. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
on4now4 Posted June 8, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 8, 2009 what do you guys think of this still able to suck in air as in the original design but more oem looking http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p209/on4now4/rim2copy.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PDX87Starion Posted June 8, 2009 Report Share Posted June 8, 2009 Nice cad drawing. Re-designing them to help cooling is an unneeded complication. Just so you know... This has been tried or looked into at least three different times and I think someone even has cnc ready designs (mookie?), but the problem is the cost and the fact that no one wants commit before a prototype is done, and it takes $$ to get that done. Plus not enough people can afford to buy wheels that are worth more than the blue book value of the car. And the few people who can afford them cant all agree on sizes or offsets. here are a few of the wheel threads: http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.p...9&hl=wheels http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.p...9&hl=wheels http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.p...6&hl=wheels I think if someone put up there own money (+ some GP members) to get them produced and made available, people would buy them. It might take a while to sell them all.... but they would sell eventually. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotty Dont Posted June 8, 2009 Report Share Posted June 8, 2009 Alot of other car also look good with these rims, Get a size and offset set in stone and offer it to other boards like the silvia forums and the like. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patra_is_here Posted June 9, 2009 Report Share Posted June 9, 2009 I STILL DONT UNDERSTAND WHY EVERYONE WANTS TO DO THIS THE HARDWAY?!?!?!?! just machine the centers, WITHOUT the cooling garbage. you only need to machine 1 type of center, not something different for front and read. then, just use a standard bolt pattern for the lips/shells and just get whatever size you want. that's the beauty of three peice rims. christ on a crutch no wonder no ones completed this task yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
on4now4 Posted June 9, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 9, 2009 I STILL DONT UNDERSTAND WHY EVERYONE WANTS TO DO THIS THE HARDWAY?!?!?!?! just machine the centers, WITHOUT the cooling garbage. you only need to machine 1 type of center, not something different for front and read. then, just use a standard bolt pattern for the lips/shells and just get whatever size you want. that's the beauty of three peice rims. christ on a crutch no wonder no ones completed this task yet. that may be what i end up doing i was just going to get in contact with the guy that i know that makes rims and ask him for a price and what the best/cheapest way to do it is. i just haven't gotten in contact with him yet the cooling was just a neat idea i came up with when i took the car to the track and did have heat being an issue if really nobody is interested i will not do it i just thought i would throw it out there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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