spadey Posted May 13, 2013 Report Share Posted May 13, 2013 Alright guys so i have a tick coming from my motor and it has me really stumped. The tick is only there when the car is up to temp. when the motor is cold she is as quite as can be then as the motor starts warming up the tick starts coming. Also it starts to get WAY quieter once the car starts to see boost then when down shifting it becomes insanely loud. It comes from the passenger near the back of the motor on the exhaust side sounds like it is right against the firewall. I have a full 3in exhaust and i just made a brand new downpipe yesterday and it didn't change one bit. I have collapsed and cleaned another set of lifters and put them in and it didn't change. The car has good compression on all cylinders balance shafts are gone and new timing chain along with guides about 20,000 miles ago. The car doesnt use a drop of oil nor are there metal shavings in the oil it has been ticking like this for like 8000 miles and its getting old. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnnyWadd Posted May 13, 2013 Report Share Posted May 13, 2013 Sounds like lifters with your oil pressure it drops when warm (and raises a little under rpms so there is the pressure making it quiet on boost like you said) and that's when you get the ticking. 8K MILES? I would check the valves for signs of wear on the tip maybe that will show the source of the noise. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dad Posted May 13, 2013 Report Share Posted May 13, 2013 Exhaust gasket blown? check #4 cyl rear manifold exhaust to head stud, see if there is any soot there,, could be cracked manifold if it's not lifters. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnnyWadd Posted May 13, 2013 Report Share Posted May 13, 2013 Exhaust gasket blown? check #4 cyl rear manifold exhaust to head stud, see if there is any soot there,, could be cracked manifold if it's not lifters. You can use a piece of hose as a stethoscope to find those little exhaust leaks down in there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spadey Posted May 13, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 13, 2013 (edited) there was soot at the number 4 exhaust gasket and i did change the gasket about 2 months ago no difference in the noise. I also didnt see any cracks on the manifold i looked it over pretty good cause i was thinking crack to. I am going to do an oil change this week and put 20w50 in it to see if that makes a difference at all.?? I was strongly thinking lifters to. I did switch them out with a good set and i cleaned them good no difference. Also if you loosen the oil cap with the car running the noise doesn't increase at all. And I also had put a screw driver with my ear up to (kinda like a stethoscope type deal) all over the valve cover and like you couldnt pin point it at all. I will try the hose idea around the exh manifold i never even thought of that. When i pulled out the old set of lifters there were all super hard i even let them sit around and they didnt compress at all. Still think it could be lifters??Also it is an odessa cylinder i think read somewhere about them having different exh valves that were a little weaker than the factory ones. I think it might have been you DAD who said that. And when i say on cold start i mean for like the first min at 800rmp or so its super quite then it starts to get make noise at like 1000rpm. And wouldnt the lifters collapse after sitting for a long period of time if they were bad?? Edited May 14, 2013 by spadey Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnnyWadd Posted May 14, 2013 Report Share Posted May 14, 2013 I will try the hose idea around the exh manifold i never even thought of that. Ya it works awesome. Any gas escaping will bounce into the hose as soon as you get close. I tried it after buying a scope off the snap on truck and then a old guy told me that the hose works better. He was right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dad Posted May 14, 2013 Report Share Posted May 14, 2013 Not weaker valves , just not a stellite valve. Have you had this noise all the time? Did you pull the rocker shafts and be sure they are clean? was this a complete head? If the installed stem height is short it can clatter but I'm sure they made sure that was correct. Hydraulic lifter heads require hydraulic rocker shafts that have the extra hole to feed the lifters. Have you taken an accurate oil pressure reading? Reground camshaft? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
importwarrior Posted May 14, 2013 Report Share Posted May 14, 2013 (edited) probably a cracked manifold between cylinder one and two. cold manifold is all nice and tight. Once warm the heat causes themanifold to expand and the crack opens and the tick starts to get loud. check your exhaust manifold nuts. tighten them down. also did you get the manifold surface cleaned and check for flatness? Edited May 14, 2013 by importwarrior Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spadey Posted May 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 14, 2013 (edited) No the noise wasnt there when the head was first put on and yes had rocker arms off and they were nice and clean. And now that i think about it im pretty sure it was a bare head. And also has a new stock cam with about 20000 miles on it. The motor only has about 20000 on it since a rebuild. the head has about 12000 and was never over heated. i havent taking an exact oil pressure reading. I want to get a gauge just not sure what fittings i need to get the sensor in the block. Also I am running a 14b turbo didnt think that would effect anything though. If you rev the car in neutral the sound gets louder with the rpm. but once you get it on the street and get into boost like 2psi it starts to go quite. What im saying is the car will make higher oil pressure with higher rpm weather its in neutral or gear under a little boost correct? The oil pump connected to the crank so the faster the cranks spins faster so does the oil pump and load should not affect this correct? I am almost postive they are hydro rocker arms. They have the hole at the top where oil pumps out correct? And no i didnt get the exh mani checked for flatness there was soot on the fire wall right behind the number 4 and the gasket was sooty so i was sure that was the problem there but after new gasket no difference. Edited May 14, 2013 by spadey Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dad Posted May 14, 2013 Report Share Posted May 14, 2013 if you have it at idle try pulling a plug wire- only one at a time see if it goes away on any particular cylinder or if it gets quieter, then that may be wrist pin or bearing.... Just want to be sure it's top end noise. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spadey Posted May 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 14, 2013 Just pulled plugs off one by one no difference at all. Dont have any hose at the house will pick some up tmr and try that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vbrad511 Posted May 14, 2013 Report Share Posted May 14, 2013 Soot behind #4 tells me that rear port on the manifold is leaking. Did you pull the manifold completely off, or just out far enough to change the gaskets? Another trick, and some guys will likely disagree with this, is to put a coat of silicone on the gasket, torque the bolts down, and don't start it for a few hours. Many years ago the warped headers on one of my V8 Monzas wouldn't seal. New gaskets were blown out within a day. At the suggestion of one of my racing buddies I gooped the rtv on a set of the gaskets and never had another issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnnyWadd Posted May 14, 2013 Report Share Posted May 14, 2013 Soot behind #4 tells me that rear port on the manifold is leaking. Did you pull the manifold completely off, or just out far enough to change the gaskets? Another trick, and some guys will likely disagree with this, is to put a coat of silicone on the gasket, torque the bolts down, and don't start it for a few hours. Many years ago the warped headers on one of my V8 Monzas wouldn't seal. New gaskets were blown out within a day. At the suggestion of one of my racing buddies I gooped the rtv on a set of the gaskets and never had another issue. I have had that work at least twice using the copper silicon 700 degree stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shelby Posted May 14, 2013 Report Share Posted May 14, 2013 that is one of the few places the RED RTV works well Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
importwarrior Posted May 14, 2013 Report Share Posted May 14, 2013 Soot behind #4 tells me that rear port on the manifold is leaking. Did you pull the manifold completely off, or just out far enough to change the gaskets? Another trick, and some guys will likely disagree with this, is to put a coat of silicone on the gasket, torque the bolts down, and don't start it for a few hours. Many years ago the warped headers on one of my V8 Monzas wouldn't seal. New gaskets were blown out within a day. At the suggestion of one of my racing buddies I gooped the rtv on a set of the gaskets and never had another issue. i will try that for sure as well. i know i have a leak and hope this will stop my ticking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spadey Posted May 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 14, 2013 I will give the rtv a try within the next week or so. I hope that works I really am thinking its exhaust leak at the manifold somewhere. Thanks for all the help you guys! Hopefully it'll be gone Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnnyWadd Posted May 14, 2013 Report Share Posted May 14, 2013 (edited) you can even use the copper stuff its 200 degrees better they say on the package. I have had good luck using the letting it dry before running the car method. It even holds up on the turbo to manifold and downpipe. http://mcdn.toolking.com/catalog/product/P/e/Permatex_81878_3_Oz_Ultra_Copper_RTV_Silicone_Gasket_Maker_Maker.jpg Edited May 14, 2013 by JohnnyWadd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jszucs Posted May 14, 2013 Report Share Posted May 14, 2013 In a pinch I have used the gasket stuff you use for the door gaskets on a coal stove. Accidentaly leaving the draft open I have seen temps past 900 and it's held up fine on the stove. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spadey Posted May 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 14, 2013 well i just got back from the store and picked up some red rtv i was looking for the cooper stuff like you said JW ill try another store this weekend for the copper stuff i am going to put it on the turbo to mani and downpipe while im at it to. i am gonna put in another new exhaust gasket to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vbrad511 Posted May 15, 2013 Report Share Posted May 15, 2013 These metal gaskets are usually reusable. Make sure it's not kinked or blown out. The red rtv will probably be fine. I used blue on that Monza and it held just fine, but if you want to make absolute certain, go for it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shelby Posted May 15, 2013 Report Share Posted May 15, 2013 best to lay a straight edge down the manifold and see how far it's bowed , if real bad you mnay need to have it surfaced Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spadey Posted May 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 15, 2013 Yea I plan on reusing it but i don't wanna get it all apart and find its blown n have to wait to get another. I plan to see if its straight to Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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