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Turbo Cary

Member Since 21 Jan 2011
Offline Last Active Yesterday, 08:25 PM

Posts I've Made

In Topic: MPI throttle body

16 September 2018 - 08:03 PM

You'd be delegated to running a ford specific throttle body based on the flange unless you make an adapter plate. What ford specific throttle body are you using? I'm sure there are companies that make a larger aftermarket option depending on the model yours came from.

In Topic: for all you EDIS freaks that need a Tach

16 September 2018 - 02:23 PM

Try using an MSD 8910 two wire tach adapter. In my Miata when I was running the Haltech Sprint 500 and switched to Toyota COPs, the tach stopped working. I tried different resistors and so on, some would make the tach bounce, others it didnt work at all. When I used an 8910 the tach came back. After switching from the Sprint 500 to an MS3Pro PNP system, I had to revert to using a resistor instead of the tach adapter.

I would suggest checking the settings in ECU Manager first, make sure that the tach output is set to Analog.

In Topic: "Grace Silver" MPI/06SL2-20G/MegaSquirt

14 September 2018 - 01:30 PM

 Preludedude, on 14 September 2018 - 06:04 AM, said:

Tried turning it over for the first time yesterday....

No luck but I noticed the tach isn't bouncing while cranking so gotta figure out why....

Also my electric fans are coming on when I turn the key so gotta figure that out.  The fans turned on at 185* before I did the engine rebuild. Gotta recheck wiring there now....

And my MSD Blaster2 coil got really hot while I was checking for fuel leaks and the fans were running. I'm wondering if the MSD coil went bad.

Are you on an MS2 system? Have you checked all the settings for inputs/outputs? How are the fans wired and is the ECU controlling the fans?

In Topic: "Grace Silver" MPI/06SL2-20G/MegaSquirt

13 September 2018 - 09:57 PM

 Preludedude, on 12 September 2018 - 08:33 PM, said:

I had it on there for a few thousand miles when it was TBI and I never had a problem.  Ive read people preaching against removing the oil separator, but many have removed it with no consequences.  But some have had issues removing it also....

Why not run a catch can? Right now nothing is pulling the vapor out of the cover. It can cause issues with ring sealing. Nothing is keeping a vacuum on the crank case while you're in boost.

As the PCV closes due to positive pressure from the intake, the compressor inlet pipe would draw out the vapor in the case and helping to keep it in a vacuum. Having a vacuum in the crank case keeps the rings pulled toward the cylinder wall.

The factory oil separators work ok, I ran one on mine for a long time. Your car is looking awesome. I would definitely like to come check it out.

In Topic: Need help with a 2010 Accord lxe

07 September 2018 - 05:42 AM

View PostSA22C, on 06 September 2018 - 10:49 AM, said:

I bought this Pilot brand new with 3 miles on the odometer.

Went through 4 recalls (Vtec inop, rear camber issue, trans limp mode, driveline vibration issue). The suspension issue was NEVER resolved and eats rear tires in about 5k miles.

It now has 163k and has been a royal pain in the tail for the last 40k.

Look into aftermarket control arms and toe adjustments for the rear. If your tires are cupping then get some better struts.