CarlosFley Posted September 23, 2015 Report Share Posted September 23, 2015 Hey guys, I recently swapped over to standalone with a Fuel Injection Pro TBPRO2 and am needing some help figuring out a no start condition. I am getting fuel, however my injectors aren't firing and red LED on ECU that is supposed to flash when cranking isn't. Odd thing is she ran just fine before for a few minutes, no hesitation, no problem whether I turned her off or not. Now she won't budge, only on very rare occasion she'll fire for about a second and die. Please help. Also I know this is Murica and there's freedom of speech blah blah blah but if you can refrain from bashing me for buying a system that no longer has support from a company that is no longer in service when for a little more money I could've gotten MegaSquirt, that'd be great. Thanks guys. Btw, you can text me for faster communication at 7072673473 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
importwarrior Posted September 23, 2015 Report Share Posted September 23, 2015 contact scott87star and have him convert the FIP to a ms1 or MS2. amazing things scott can do with that! great price as well for the conversion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BOHO Posted September 23, 2015 Report Share Posted September 23, 2015 What are you using for your signal? CR125? EDIS? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott87star Posted September 23, 2015 Report Share Posted September 23, 2015 BOHO is on the right track, you won't get the injectors to fire without an incoming rpm signal. FIP actually used a few different rpm input styles, CR125, GM 4 pin HEI module, rpm output from an MSD 6 series, you'll have to tell us what yours is now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CarlosFley Posted September 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 23, 2015 I am using a GM 4 pin HEI, brand new btw, got some gas on my old one and that's when she started acting up so I thought it was the module and bought a brand new one. Still nothing. Stock ignition system. Red Blaster coil, 89 knock box. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BOHO Posted September 23, 2015 Report Share Posted September 23, 2015 I never used that setup so maybe Scott can help you out. But Its definitely your rpm signal as he stated. Broken wire - bad ground - bad module - etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott87star Posted September 23, 2015 Report Share Posted September 23, 2015 If the connectors to everything are crimped go back and solder them all. Connect a laptop to the ECU, you can use Tuner Studio and it will find that old turd firmware. Crank it over and look for rpm on the laptop gauges. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CarlosFley Posted September 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 23, 2015 Scott they're not crimp together they have connectors crimped onto each end. That's how I got it, and for ease of installation and removal I never thought of soldering them together. Does soldering actually help with continuity more than male and female connectors do? I heard someone mention that by soldering connections you can end up adding resistance to the existing circuit possibly hurting it. But, you're the Guru, I'm just wondering. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott87star Posted September 23, 2015 Report Share Posted September 23, 2015 You don't solder the connectors to the module, you solder the wires to the connectors. It does make a difference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CarlosFley Posted September 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 23, 2015 So you're saying to solder the connectors on instead of crimp them? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexasQuest Posted September 24, 2015 Report Share Posted September 24, 2015 Always solder your connections instead of using crimp on butt connectors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CarlosFley Posted September 24, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 24, 2015 Ohhhhhh okay, I'll do that then. Any links to good quality solder connectors, or are O'Reilly / autozone ones okay? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CarlosFley Posted September 24, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 24, 2015 Wait, I wasn't speaking about butt connectors. The connectors that are on the harness and and that I crimped on r spade connectors both male and female, are those still not good for connections? Do they have Spade connectors that you solder on? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexasQuest Posted September 24, 2015 Report Share Posted September 24, 2015 Those are better but not what they are being used for on your car. Get some srink wrap sleeve and some solder and a soldering iron and solder the wires together, then slide the heat shrink wrap over your work and then your done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
importwarrior Posted September 24, 2015 Report Share Posted September 24, 2015 a picture could help out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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