jd_stazza_brendan

If i had won something legitimatly....... Was promised the prize........ Had been told it was coming for over a year......... Id be pushing the issue as well.

R32 GTR Winfield car that won Bathurst... Living in Au i see GTRs a bit

Dingo,,, thats way to Australian for you to have on your car i demand it be removed immediatly

I want one of those 88/89 tranny bottom plates

No problem, Didnt think it would take so long to get to you. Especially having the package split and delivered 2 weeks apart.

I run aftermarket boost gauge in factory spot. And a electronic boost controller between the instrument cowl and A-pillar. A-pillar gauge holders are illegal here.

Wouldnt the Vin only be applicible to US. As in not take into account other countries. Our VIN number here is totally different to yours, and only applies to cars for Australia.

Finally, Good to see they finally made it Matt. How sexy is that special manifold in there ps. Futurama is series. Dr Farnsworth (sp)

Dropped the nut that tightens the distributor up on my 87 once, Could not find it for about an hour. Ended up grabbing one from a different car. Never saw it again.

I been learning about rotors for a while now, Something about them that draws my attention. Got a friend with a Series 3 with a 13bt from a Cosmo, Currently rebuilding the motor with new apex seals and bearings. Also we are building a 12A carby bridgeport. Ive been told that if you have a stuck apex seal a good way to throw it back out is to get the car tow started, drop the clutch in 1st or 2nd gear while getting a slow tow and the force should throw the seal back out.

Your guys VIN numbers must be done differently, Ours are only for that particular model. As in my 87 was 0050, meaning it was number 50 of the Starion in that model. My 82 is 0364 meaning its the 364th Starion made for Australia.

im bored, its raining, im at work, and im in chat

I hope they show up soon.

Good to see my presence finally recognized.

Good to see you got them ok Matt. Was starting to worry they were tucked in the corner of a warehouse somewhere forgotten. Did you get the one with the TR-TS inside it?

My dad use to be mad into his Beetles, Is looking to buy another after not having one for over 25 years.

Hmmmmmm my brothers 84 Starion needs a paint job

I run a 044 pump on my car. Using it on the current motor (145hp) but its really in there for the more powerful motor to go in. Havnt had any troubles with it.

+18 is factory offset. Search Austarion theres a few threads on what wheel sizes work.

Plates were $390 but i own them for life regardless if they are on a car or not with no other fees except a $20 if i put them on a different vehicle. Registration is about $580 for 12 months.

I own the plates (In my state in Australia you buy the rights to the plate) 63 TBO (4g63 Turbo) 63 PWR (4g63 Power) I wanted to buy the STARION combination but that was thousands of dollars.

2500

Wow, you guys seem to blow the whole process out of proportion it seems. Yes there is work to be done to go MPI. Is it worth going MPI on a stock motor? Yes, I run a stockish motor on MPI and its great, very drivable, extremely reliable. If your worried about the expense to go MPI, dont bother. If you hunt around the Australian forum you would see how common MPI swap is here, its nothing groundbreaking or exclusive. The only advantage is we have more manifold options. I thought the US with cheaper parts would have alot more MPI swaps. Your MegaSquirt ECU is cheap, getting a Magna intake to US is cheap (ive done it before), injectors there seem cheap, coolers and pipework seems easy and cheap to find. A good tune here can cost around 400-600+ dollars on a dyno. Its important not to be a tight-arse with your money here, you could have spent 5G getting your MPI to this stage and be cheap on the tune and end up with poor results. Bottom line is the more time the car is spent being tuned the better it will be, better fuel economy, drivability, cold start etc. One thing that bothers me is quite a few MPI guys seem to go with lower end ECU. Cheaper ECU will do alright but once you have played around with a high end ECU or even something mid-range you wont want to go back. I learned ECU from my MPI 82. It has a Link ECU fitted so i loaded up the software and bought the handcontroller. The ECU has decent features, is so easy to tune, has great tech support. I would like to keep it for my new motor but it wouldnt handle it. Cant be scared to play with the settings, common sense should stop you making dangerous changes like to much timing or to little fuel. I think the first thing i did was convert the fans to be run off the ECU output. Starting off with small things like that gives you confidence and even more when you see the gains. Since ive owned this car with MPI setup ive gone from knowing very little about aftermarket ECU to playing with my settings and tune, helping tune another Starion that was running 12s, Retuned a mates RX7 for bigger injectors and more boost (was soo much fun ) And now me and my brother are planning his MPI motor for his car. Its not that hard really. Cliff notes. -MPI is worth the money -Dont be cheap on the tune -Buy a decent ECU -4G63 > 4G54

Random Breath Test (rarely random) Check vehicle for defects/illegal mods Drug search (not as common) Licence check

I only just got that Toshiba laptop you linked there. I like it so far and with the 4gb of RAM i havnt noticed any "Vista is slow" problems.