Chad

he didn't say who is friend was. yours went out Friday US mail. the other was to go out Monday via UPS [have to take it to a different place].

I have 5 plates ready to go, it's the rear pinion adapters I don't have in stock.

paypal has already taken that money back after the dispute was opened at two weeks into the transaction.

You mean the one has a picture that stereotypes a particular race in a very unkind mannor? That one? I didn't delete it, but some other mod set it as unviewable. yes, the biggoted theme in that image was squelched, if you want to associate yourself with that message, then I guess you too were squelched. Personlay I thought it was funny, but it's not good for the forum as a whole.

Same one you and I used. My guess is its pressure plate either folded under the pretture and started letting parts fly, or its disk slipped and overheated instantly, but I really doubt that slip theory because the dyno doesn't show a drop in power prior to the clutch letting loose. It's really only guesses when something blows like that and leaves just fragments behind. I know I've pushed more powwer than that through mine, on the street at that. I'd think it was a defect that needed power and time to develop. How much torque did you apply to the pressure plate allen bolts David? Sucks that you have such an awwful clutch failure.

Things dry super fast if you use very hot water to start with, it just evaporates a lot faster. A rusty pan with the loose rust wont hurt the motor, oil will keep it from growing worse so no need to paint. OIl it now if it's a part you care about. That's why I suggested mineral spirits, they just evaporate with no oily residue, and you can wipe clean any solids that are left behind (they just stay attached like dust). Nice thing about mineral spirits, you can let the crud settle out and pour it back into the container and reuse it over and over and over again. When you want to get rid of it, just mix it with your used motor oil and dispose of it that way. It's just a small chain hydrocarbon, just like oil and gas, so it melts greese and oil, but it fully compatable with it. It works like washing stuff with gasoline, but with out the dangerous flash point or aweful smell. It's about $4 a gallon.

do those 5 strokes switch to power stroke on the upstroke every other cycle? radical concept.

someone else will upload them, trust me. We just need to be sure you take pictures, cause everyone else will have the good sense to stay well away. We can put it up on youtube in your memory.

If it makes a toxic gas from all the other unknown compounds in there, take pictures of yourself flopping like a fish on the ground as you die, I want to see it.

cheap effective safe. For most I'd say pick two, but for you I'd say pick one. I use one of these with mineral spirits [cheap paint thinner]. http://www.google.com/products/catalog?q=siphon+sprayer&hl=en&prmd=imvns&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_qf.,cf.osb&biw=1280&bih=707&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=shop&cid=11547415808111188407&sa=X&ei=dh_QT7KuH-7-2QWXsdjeDA&ved=0CIwBEPMCMAA

is there adequate slack in the trottle cable? should be a little loose at idle.

cause of failure is the fact that the BS bearings see twice the wear of the other bearings. those shafts turns at twice the crank speed, so they have twice the number of miles on them. The upper shaft seems to be the most common one to fail, you can pull that cover drivers on the side of the block and get a real good look at it, that's in part what that cover is there for.

replace it, it's a known problem on these cars, you are not the first and won't be the last. The 2nd and 3rd pullies are attached to the 1st and main hub with rubber cast inbetween them, the rubber tears off and the only thing holding #2 and 3 on the hub at this point is the belts. You can get a an aftermarket solid unit if you wish, no problems with usign a non-dampened pulley.

leaking injector pintle seat will often cause that. Does it take more than a couple cranks to start it when the motor is cold?

As Scotty Dont pointed out, you don't understand the O-ring process. Now throw in receiver grooves and you have an even better seal than the standard oring process, but unless you are pushing 200+ HP per cylinder, it's problaby not worth while. Seems to be the only way to get copper gasket ot seal since it's not going to spring back during heat cycles like the cheap composite gasket cores and steel fire rings do. Thats why the copper gaskets sometimes only last a few hundered miles on otherwise good builds.

It's not jsut about upward force, it's about side forces that want to push the gasket out sideways. At 30+ PSI, there is probalby 2500 PSI +/-in the combustion chamber. A .040" thick gasket has about a half square-inch of surface area in the chamber arround it's circumfrence, so there is about 1200 pounds of force trying to squease that gasket out the sides, about a hundered pounds per every lineal inch of fire ring surface area. The Oring entraps the gasket so it can't "slide" out. Head lift is unavoidable, with 2500 PSI, there is about 28,000 pounds of total upward force on the studs, they will move. when they move, there is less clamping force on that gasket keeping it from sliding out. There were some pics of these Titan gaskets with ovaled out bores when they first came out, the sides were squished out till it blew or leaked. Pretty obvious demonstration of this process. Oring is more for fire ring slip prevention than for improving the seal on a less than perfet surface. a perfeclty machined surface will still allow fire ring slippage. Just as a poorly machined sruface will still leak, Oring or not.

Monteros and D-50's I believe (might be in teh FAQ or found in a search). You can still buy the parts new from the dealer, or yard them out of parts cars. there is no direct-swap differential, it has to be frankesteined together. Because it wasn't a stock ratio for the diff, getting the shims seup correclty can be trickey, but its been done on many members cars. even at 80, the motor was only turning like 2200 RPM, to low to make the boost needed to push the car along at that speed without lugging it badly.

No tail lights, just what is listed for now. Didn't find the 88 injectors, I have some, but I'm not in a place to dig them out, need to clear this stuff out first.

stop the madness: T56 http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Borg-Warner_T-56_transmission ZF http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_ZF_transmissions getrag http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Getrag Indeed, the .50 6th is useless on a quest with stock 3.55 rear diff. It's only usable with a 4.22 diff ratio. Even the .75 5th gear is a stretch.

oil in the combustion chamber can cause a diesel effect, so if there was excess blow by and boost, or problems with oiling in the intake from a bad turbo, you can cause an otherwise healty, propperly timed and stoich A/F ratio motor to detonate.

blue or black injetor, or both? I have a set that is good, but han't been used in a while. probalby best to have them cleaned.

could be valves, bent or burnt. The oil test usualy only works on rings though. Cracked rings are not uncommon on stock motors with above stock boost, or motors that have leaned out regardless of piston/age. Detonation can occur down in the ring groves and will blow upward on the ring lands and destroy them. Seen this in on forged JE's before, was caused by boost spike. Pulled down a few OEM motors with poor compression, all had broken lands and cracked rings.

liquid from one of those "canned air" spray cans you use for cleaing keyboards. Just tip it upside down and it sprays out the liquid contents, they rapidly boil off and super-chill whatever you spray it on. Get the carank end warm/hot with a torch and then spray just the ring. Shoudl shrink it enough to fall out (perhaps with some persuation). Shouldn't be cold enough to temp-shock the crank metal. I'd try other methods first but this is an option. You could also try chilling it with ICE after heating the crank, but the water gettign in to the joint and crank threads would be problematic. Douce it with some WD-40 before and after, the WD stands for water displacing, that what it was origionaly designed to to.

Lid shown is for the 87+ with the rectangualr 6 pin plug. 86 and under are 4 pin round.

added torque tube shaft and coupler. Also stock K&N air Filter.