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  1. I think this is a steal, and the seller seems good. If anyone is looking for one, it looks pretty cheap: https://www.ebay.com/itm/253671763296
  2. use IMGUR or some host. You can't put it directly in the site, as there's a 100kb limit. You can barely put a 2006-era cameraphone pic.
  3. Checking back in. Anyone here remember me? Anyone still remember the folks: G54Bstore (I want to say his name was Brian and in Florida), DeezNuts (i believe his name was Darryl?), tsiconquest88 (Joe) Pure_Insanity (Grant) and this other dude not sure if he was on here, but another GA member named or nicknamed "Johnboy". If anyone knows if they're still around lmk, Also if you know them, tell them I said what's up. Also figure I should share a pretty awesome pic from a few years ago here in ATL.
  4. Minor issue. When you click the preview post button, there seems to be an extra conflicting header being sent, causing it to fail to load. If you're using apache, maybe there's a default deny directive in the config. Maybe invision handles it for you, but minor issue in either case. You could check for it with grep -r "X-Frame-Options" /etc/apache2/
  5. Crazy how SQC went down right as I started looking for starquest stuff again, after many years. Glad that it's back. It has been many many years since I've seen one on the road, in the wild. If anyone knows where I can find a widebody shell / roller, please let me know. I'm in the southeast. Here's my heap of junk 83 when it was semi-running. [
  6. If you're asking for a bolt on turbo upgrade, it's going to be harder to find. You can check on ebay, a lot of people machine out the compressor housing of the stock 12A and fit in various other mitsubishi compressor wheels. Some people even upgrade the compressor housing too. Mitsu turbos are fairly straight forward to C-clamp off and mix and match, as long as you get 'em balanced when you're done. DSM-14B turbos may still be easy enough to find, but the one you're likely going to want is the evo3 16g. Another minor note, aside from clocking the housing and getting the pipes to fit, you may have to make a minor mod to the downpipe flange. Stock starquests have the stock downpipe without wastegate hole. (1 hole) DSM's and evos use the diamond style ones with two holes: https://www.ebay.com/itm/133818987037?hash=item1f283bb21d:g:AbkAAOSwXyla9H-b Another note, the evo8 and newer use different turbos. Even though they are named similarly, there's an important distinction. TD05HR-16G is not hte same as TD05H-16G . The R stands for reverse rotation, i learned this the hard way A lot of people will hate on the alternate idea, but now a days the "terrible crappy chinese ebay turbos" are not as bad as they used to be. I haven't used one on a starquest, but have on other cars. A bunch of friends use them and have had great results and for a bargain. You can't even get a damaged/used turbo for under 200 bucks, but you can get one from china to your door. https://www.ebay.com/itm/294331324222?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item448783973e:g:6EAAAOSw8k5hV712 - if you do go this route, make sure you use a restrictor fitting on the oil feed line, as not doing this is the main reason people report their chinese turbos failing. https://www.ebay.com/itm/154454145215
  7. Here are some pics http://i.imgur.com/X1hIQeG.jpg http://i.imgur.com/NQ85UDF.jpg
  8. Below is an update to my build thread. As you can see in the pics, it looks terrible. I don't want to delete things blindly, bc i don't want various things like wipers and stock controls/displays to stop working. Anyone have good looking Bay? What are some things you see that can be safely removed on this megasquirt sq.
  9. Thanks Randy. I assume that you're formerly Dad I just put my order in yesterday
  10. Thanks Randy. I assume that you're formerly Dad I just put my order in yesterday
  11. Natallica, do you have the 83 door decals "TURBO"
  12. interesting: http://www.cdxetextbook.com/electrical/ignition/sysandComp/opticaltypesensors.html
  13. nice! Check this out http://www.diyautotune.com/jwplayer_viral/images/cartech_articles/240sx/distributor.jpg interesting thread: http://www.msextra.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=131&t=48134
  14. I don't really understand why this won't work. If I were to cut a trigger wheel that fits into where my distributor button goes. If the crank spins twice for every spin of the cam, can't you throw a trigger wheel and tell the megasquirt it has half the amount of notches? Assuming this works, will the fact that it's half the speed/ and half the amount of notches- it will surely be less accurate. On the flip side, it can also be a ridiculously cheap/easy mod to control ignition timing. Please tell me where my logic is flawed, as I don't see anyone doing this and I don't understand why. "Cam twist" comes to mind, but is this even a serious concern? relevant: http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q299/I-W/M%20P%20I%20project/8.jpg
  15. No wonder I couldn't remember your username... haha You were doing real name username before it was cool-- waaay before facebook My cylinder head is currently at Ball Engine and Machine in Lilburn GA (The same place that initially installed the wiseco's and the rods/etc that I bought from Randy (Dad) ) I'm going to give it another go. Yesterday, I started the car and was messing around in TunerStudioMS which is pretty awesome, as well as this new app called MSDroid written by a dude named Trevor Page. I can say that I found Tuner Studio to be waaay easier to navigate and use to tune megasquirt from my phone. If you don't have it... GET IT. All it requires is a 5$ cable that converts that micro USB port that you charge your device with into a full size USB port. I plugged my Serial DB9 connector into this and it worked like a champ. Just make sure your USB to Serial adapter has a PL2303 chipset and there's a driver out there for it. I used a samsung galaxy S4 and it's super convenient to datalog and even make changes yourself while driving. Here's the video of me messing around acting like I know what I'm doing before I realized that there's something wrong and the head needs to come off. There was somehow water in cyl #4 (slight rust) compression #'s were about 60ish max. one was 0. Me acting like a Pro <<that is before I figured I should try out MSDroid
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