shift1313

coolant return line from turbo? some things wont show up until the temp is high enough or pressure.

JD, i didnt know that was your white car. I remember seeing some vids of it a few years back doing some extended burnouts and a jturn:) kinda blurry but shes in the spotlight, where she should be:), http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj39/shift1313/Starion/nightpic.jpg http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj39/shift1313/Starion/photocontest2small.jpg http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj39/shift1313/Starion/photocontest.jpg http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj39/shift1313/Starion/PrimeHood5.jpg http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj39/shift1313/Starion/Birdseye.jpg

I hope the new job treats you well! That really sucks. Job security is a nice thing to have.

83 was on the roof. 84+ had the "new position"

no first gen camaro fans? i love either 67-68 camaro of firebird. baldwin motion or yenko 67-68. or a c2-c3 vette!!! http://www.freewebs.com/vampirepresea/67_camaro_001.jpg http://images.superchevy.com/events/sucp_0711w_14_z%20best_of_the_best%2067_camaro.jpg

casey the first few screen shots are Solidworks( i recognize the start/stop light). as the pages progress im not sure if he switches software to something else but i dont think so. We just got solidworks 08 at work and its very impressive software. Im working my way through the cfd stuff in it now.

its not any extra work on my part but waterjetting that hole adds cut time which raises the cost, especially in 1" thick aluminum. If we do away with the lip for the center hole this thing can all be done on the waterjet, and then the dowel holes be manually drilled(not a big deal). If we keep the lip on the center hole the part will need some sort of cnc machining operation which will greatly increase the cost. The only downside to waterjetting a piece this thick is the draft angle it will have. I would undersize the holes and finish drill them on a drill press to ensure they are correct. If the guy measuring the part for you has a compass, he can measure straight line distance between the holes and give me an angle the holes are at to each other. To measure the distance to the right hole(top of the triangle) he can lay a ruler from the top left hole to the bottom left hole and use another ruler to get the distance. finding the angle may be easier to measure. Like i said whatever numbers he can come up with as long as they all have a reference to something else i should be fine.

click on this link http://filebox.vt.edu/users/maperez/BumpSteer.bmp i couldnt post it as an image since this old laptop will only save bmp files from paintbrush:) On the other page you said the holes for the bolts were roughly 8cm apart and that each hole was 1cm. On that .bmp you can see the overlay of your pencil rubbing and the two holes 8cm(3.14") apart. I scaled the drawing up so the bolt holes were about 1cm. the measurements i need are the ones posted on the first page drawing shown below. http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj39/shift1313/cad/75ColtBumpSteer3d-Model.jpg only since we are leaving the large center hole out that doesnt really matter anymore. Just a reference for the 3 bolt holes and the two dowels from where ever he can measure them from. I just want to make sure the location of these holes is right on. I figured this way would be easier than you looking for a spare part and shipping it across the country:) once we get the number nailed down i can send the file off to the local machine shop for waterjet quote to see how many of these things you would get for that min price i told you. My guess would be 5 or 6 of them(just a guess though).

http://www.bufkinengineering.com/intake%20manifolds.htm thought these were cool http://www.bufkinengineering.com/ins1.jpg http://www.bufkinengineering.com/ins2.jpg drool away:) was talking to a guy at work about designing his intake and he came across this site http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=127863&page=3 a lot of great work and some cool CFD results. extremely impressive, oh and check out the turbo header http://album.hybridz.org/data/500/medium/Picture_0212.jpg http://album.hybridz.org/data/500/medium/Picture_0223.jpg integrated fuel rail into the manifold http://album.hybridz.org/data/500/medium/Picture_0245.jpg http://album.hybridz.org/data/500/medium/Picture_00510.jpg you can look through the pages but here are just a few more if those didnt spark your interest(the cfd for this design starts in around page 6-8 i think) http://album.hybridz.org/data/500/medium/DSCN0263.JPG http://album.hybridz.org/data/500/medium/DSCN0268.JPG integrated fuel rail and vac ports before welding http://album.hybridz.org/data/500/medium/DSCN0271.JPG http://album.hybridz.org/data/500/medium/12-01-06_002.JPG http://album.hybridz.org/data/500/medium/8-19-06_070.JPG

you guys sure do get out a lot. Thats great to be able to spend all the time with them! I had no idea the youngest was going to be indy for haloween:) it was like a segment of wheres waldo with that hat:) how recent are the photos?

this laptop im on now is so horribly slow i cant take it. Here is the rough drawing to scale with your drawing. If you can get accurate measures on the dowel diameter and location and bolt holes we can go from there. Even though this pencil rubbing was scaled down it should still be right, i just need something concrete to scale it to. http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj39/shift1313/cad/75ColtLCASpacer-Model.jpg

okay slight issue. 8cm is 3.1496", 1cm is .3937". When i scaled your drawing up 3.875 times i get the hole diameter to about the right number(just for reference purposes), but you can see from the drawing that the distance between holes is a lot less than 8cm. Its actually closer to 6.3cm. http://filebox.vt.edu/users/maperez/BumpSteer.bmp is there anyway your 8cm measurement could be that far off? 6.3cm is about 2.5"

wow you work fast, i leave for a few hours:) I enjoy the fact that you measure the holes metric but us US units for the rest:) I agree if we use the dowels we can do away with the raised lip which will keep this thing 2d and able to be waterjetted(except the dowel holes). Waterjetting is material plus cut time, so if we didnt use the center hole i can just leave it solid. material cost would be the same(because they charge you for it anyways) but cut time would be less. let me import that drawing real quick and draw something up.

alright matt i drew these up real quick http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj39/shift1313/cad/75coltBumpSteer.jpg http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj39/shift1313/cad/75ColtBumpSteer3d-Model.jpg depending on how you want to go about this im going to need some numbers. I based everything off the bottom left hole. if you want to measure some other way thats fine. I need a location of the center hole, location of the dowel pins and size, and i need to make sure the 3-bolt hole pattern is symmetrical. We can do this several ways. If you want to take a pencil rubbing of one of the two parts and scan it into the computer it will be 1:1(i do this all the time with reverse engineering parts). You can place the part on a scanner or photo copier and do the same thing. That is if you dont feel comfortable with the measurments.

well i am a cad person and im pretty busy but like i said if you draw up roughly what you want i can draw it up in no time. My local machine shop where i have stuff water jetted has a min order of $150 for the water jet. If you are talking about spacers and things that are only 2d this would work out. If you are talking about camber plates which would require some additional machining for strut clearance and pillow ball mount the price might get up there.

ill ask around. so at this point you are just looking for something that will bolt into your tower and you will worry about the spindle/control arm later? I dont really have the time to design anything but if you design something you want. ill draw it up so you can take it to a local machine shop and have it made(for a camber plate setup).

i should also note both ours and the wilwood unit have divided sections for front and rear. So those volume number are for each section( i measured actual travel of the piston inside the master). And mech since you started talking about this i wanted to add a few things. if you adjust the pedal ratio of the stock unit you can get more travel in the stock master per distance the pedal travels. Having the larger master would make your pressure ratio change(for the worse), but keeping the same size master, adjusting the pedal ratio for more piston travel makes the force ratio much greater. Stock master and lets say 1 stock caliper, thats a 5.7:1 ratio. You put in 1lb you get out 5.7. Swap that out for a 4 piston(1.75" diam) you get 13.9:1 ratio. The catch you were talking about is now to move the caliper pistons 1" the brake master would have to move 13.9" Because this number is so high i thought it was best to keep the stock unit since it can move more fluid volume and eat the difference by adjust the pedal ratio and getting more use out of the stroke. Changing the pedal ratio shouldnt be that big of a deal if you are going to larger rotors and better pads because you will need less force to get the same torque to stop the vehicle, and the larger rotors will dissipate more heat so there is a bonus.

here is some info on the wilwood master vs ours. the wilwood unit mounting is very close to ours and probably could be made to work but the stroke is shorter than ours. Wilwood 1" bore master Piston area = 0.785 sq inches volume = 0.8635 cubic inches or 14.15 cc's Starion 15/16" bore master Piston area = 0.6936 sq inches volume = 1.04 cubic inches or 17cc's Pedal ratio 4:1 (this means if you put in 300lbs you get out 1200psi over that .6936 sq inch area.) stock calipers 2.25" diameter pistons, or 3.97 inch^2 cross section. If anyone is interested I did do a bunch of calculations on the matter(havent finished them all yet but have all of the basics).

Monty, monty who:) i wondered if you were going to come back or not

How about baja? 24hrs, day and night. if you break in the middle of the desert you have to fix it. WRC is definitely intense and requires tons of skill. for motorcycles id say motocross, specifically supercross. Its the second most physically demanding sport in the world so not only do you need great riding skill but you need to be physically able.

oh i didnt think you meant me. What cars do you want? Ill ask a few people in the local car club that may either have those cars or know someone who does. Also talk to member Fanta. He was just at an old school car meet and maybe he made a few contacts. i was searching the net looking for some info for you and came across www.datsun510.net. I was searching for strut brace pictures for plym sapporos http://datsun510.com/photopost/data/500/medium/80strut_bar_002.jpg

i thought you said your strut mount was a lot smaller pattern? Did you measure those numbers or find them. Anything you want to measure just let me know.

thats actually a new one that i hadnt seen yet. but on this computer i feel like a fly buzzing around the engine bay, have to watch it later so i dont get sick:)

not exactly. The colors could have come from improper post flow setting on their welder but the back side of the weld needs to be covered as well during the weld because of the transition temp and the brittleness that will result. For an exhaust system i dont think it would matter too much. I mean if they left the post flow on any longer they would have to charge 25000, and really who will pay that

ouch! ky, thats a great story. Did she actually give you her pantyhos or think it was just a trick:)