s.kodai

oscar, can you hook me up with some of those metric compression adaptor fittings? or tell me where you got them? please????

hmmm, if he can give me some good info, that would be good, but i'm not gonna pay for a tune. i would rather drive a bad running car for two months and learn how to fix it myself, than pay someone else to do it for me. as for handling, i don't know yet. radiator fans are appearing wednesday. till then, i can only go around the block. i'll let you know. hopefully i can get some vids done, and hosted.

i don't have a problem with tranny tunnel issues, i started with an auto, which come with a bigger tranny tunell. Â it is a tight fit tho. http://www.superimagehost.com/image.php?src=244070981.jpg&m_id=67 that's the only pic i can post easily. that's why i need a host. i wanna show you the video. i can show the whole thing.

um, i have seen tests in qn old hot rod magazine that showed that a glass pack (aka cherry bomb) flows worse than most stock mufflers. it is louder, but has MAJOR restrictions. if you go to the auto store, and find a 2.5 inch cherry bomb, look through that tube. you will see a 2.5 inch glasspack really only has about a 1.5 inch core opening. glasspacks are for rednecks. REPLACE THAT THING RIGHT NOW. you will notice an immediate difference. i promise. my roomate picked up almost .2 second from dumping the glasspack and going with a dynomax.

got the lt1 v8 running a few days ago. sounds really good. needs a little tunung though. it has a idle to full-throttle hesitation. the bad thing about the lt1 is that it has about 60 tables that can be editited for tuning. and i really don't have to much of a clue where to start. drives around the block tho. does nice power slides. anyone have a place i can host a video, so you guys can see me spin the tires a little? 350 cid lt1 cc306 cam p+p heads custom sanderson shorty headers 2.5 to 3 inch exhaust custom tuning done by tunercat and some .bins i downloaded off the net to get it running 4l60e auto tranny (i like autos, faster at the track, and easier to drive, i'm lazy) 3000 rpm stall from torco no dynos yet, but 350 rwhp is VERY possible. most if the guys i have seen with a cc306 get about that, depending on tuning and gear. i'll lose a little cause we have the 3.55 rear, and they mostly have 3.73s and 4.10s. but i have a lighter car (won't make a diff on the dyno tho). antone else done an lt1 swap? can i officially be the first lt1? nick

apperently you don't read either. HKS said this, not me. so when you say we are confused, you say the manufacturer if the valve is confused? mighty arrogant, aren't we???

i think we are all in a bit of confusion. hooking it up the way that chiplee recomends uses the valve as a POP-OFF valve. this means it only controls the amount of maximum boost. you can hear it at part throttle because the closed t.b. butterfly is causing a boost spike over the limit set by the screw. if you hook it up with the "downward" facing nipple hooked up after the t.b., then, and only then, are you using it as a blow-off valve. if you have it hooke up this way you can test it by holding your hand over the outlet, then goosing the throttle. you will probably feel a lot of air. you can't hear it cause it is not really that much air, and the valve is HUGE, very little restiction. as a teset once, i had taped a bunch of those whistle things (you knkow, the ones with the little metal wheel)to the output, then i could hear it. this info comes straight from HKS. i also had problems, and spent nearly three hours with their technical support people. the the plug that comes out near the inlet pushes on one side of the diapragm causing the valve to open under pressuure, and the other port uses the other side, opening under vacuum. tightening the screw causes the valve to need more of whichever your used port supplies. i.e. a tighter screw needs more boost to overcome the spring, or needs more vacuum to overcome the spring. again, this info came straight from hks tech support. they DO NOT recommend using BOTH ports at the same time. not exactly sure why, but he said it would cause it not to work properly. they specifically said, that to use this valve as a blow-off, or bov, use the "bottom" port, not the "top" one. that being said, use whatever works for you (i think the other way did, you just didn't have it properly adjusted, i had to drive mine for two weeks to get it just right), but the way you have it hooked up now is a POP-OFF config. a pop-off will only open when the boost goes past a set point. a blow-off will (should) open ANYTIME there as a pressure differential between the two sides of the throttle body butterfly.

f1 and cart cars use them because they are a few percent lighter than the same on ally. Â neither one of these examples speaks of the durability of anything used in them. Â you know as well as i do that MOST of these parts are replaced on a per race basis. Â exactly because they are not dependable. Â and all of the cf used on these race cars is the hot bonded molded cf, that costs four times as much as the cold stuff. Â one of the halfshafts on an f1 car costs more than mine and your cars put together, almost $30000 each. Â the barge boards on these things cost more than $10000 to have manufactured. Â i have seen a lot of cf shatter on the track. Â sometimes for no seeable reason, i.e. fatigue, or improper manufacturing methods. and if you do any watching of f1, you know that when cf breaks, it shatters catostrophically, usually ending in an accident. Â in the old days of steel and ally, stuff would bend, but the car could still be driven to the pits. Â you and i don't have the funds to properly use cf. Â sure you can get a honda valve cover made of the stuff, but that is no stronger than fiberglass. Â the REAL cf is way too difficult to manufacture for an automobile. P.S. all of the cf shafts i have seen use an ally ends, they glue the cf to aluminum. Â which is the real weak point. Â even of you got a real cf shaft, you still have weak aluminum ends on it. check this out: http://www.raikkonenkimi.com/costs.htm this page is in euros, 100 euros to 113 american dollars. that's 4500 dollars each for brake rotors. tossed after each race. 9000 for the engine cover. i am not sure exaclty what "lip of the car" is, but that's 5000. i couldn't find halfshaft, but scale these prices. i've heard 20 grand quoted on tv. just do a search on "formula 1 driveshaft" and see how many times that appears in the same paragraph with "cost him the race" or "retired with a".

whoevewr has the glasspack muffler: GET RID OF THAT P.O.S. glasspacks are the most restrictive mufflers EVAR! get a real straight thru muffler, you will notice an immediate difference, especially with a turbo. i ahve an old hot rodder magazine were they did muffler tests. glasspacks are almost four times as restrictive as the cheapest real muffler. i got my roommate to dumo his glasspack to a walker ultraflow, just that nothing else. he picked up almost .3 in the quarter (mostly in the 60 foot times down .2). and they were all consistent runs. i mean all runs before and after were within .05 second. i wish i could be that consistent. glasspacks suck. loud does not mean powerful.

you didn't really explore the site did you? denny's amke two different types of aluminum driveshaft. one made out of 6061-t6, and one made out of even harder ally. they use all aluminum slip yokes. the 6061 is 295, and the hevay duty is 460. and if you read the site, they say why they don't do carbon fiber. the cf driveshafts use aluminum slip yokes, and of course the c.f. has to be GLUED to the slip yokes. hmmm, glue or weld? you gotta know that the glue isn't as strong as a welded d.s. and you will NEVER get a warranty like denny's from anyone with a c.f. shaft. denny's doesn't even warranty the ally ones like the steel ones. i understand with the 2.6l, you probably will never get near the limit of the stock d.s. even a race motor can't output enough. but for those of us with REAL h.p., i think we need a better d.s. i have been told that those of us with a v8 swap snap the stock d.s like the twigs they are. of course i have twice as much torque as the 4 banger. carbon fiber is a waste of money from a performance standpoint. they LOOK really cool, but can't handle the horsepower, and have a very short lifespan. i know a lot about c.f., and it just comes down to not being a good substance for this app. c.f. is too flexible. at 6 grand, athat thing would be whipping about like a wet noodle.

i was asked to pass along some info to you guys. it seems some of you are breaking driveshafts. for those of you who have not heard of these guys: http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com this is why you should buy one: "IF YOU CAN POSSIBLY TWIST OUR TUBING OR BREAK OUR WELDS...WE'LL REPLACE IT FREE!!!" they say they can mate any tranny to any rear end, so i'm thinking they could build some for us. i don't have any real info yet, and any i do get will be of limited use to you guys (i have a 4l60e tranny for my lt1 swap). but i'm pretty sure they could hook you guys up. and the heavy duty shafts max out at 295 plus shipping. no shipping if you wait 45 days. i think we would use "diagram k" for out apps.

wow, no wonder. those numbers suck compared to my 2V lt1 head. i am pretty sure it flows close to those numbers stock. and is VERY easy to get 295 at less than .600. i know, i am talking v8. but it is still a 2 valve head. bigger valves tho, i am thinking, by like .1". still, no wonder it is so hard to get hp out of these heads. man, what would it be like to get flows of 295 out of these things? WHOOSH!!!

i don't think so: "The sensor reads the partial pressure of gases in the exhaust and infers the AFR, rather than by measuring some magical AFR directly. This may be an issue on forced induction, and in particular, on turbo-charged engines. AFRs will indicate richer than they are, causing you to run leaner than you think. Lean AFR's will be richer (or less lean) than indicted. " probably NOT a good idea.

just got dome with page one. rjf, someone already busted your balls on the centrifugla force thing. it does not exist. the force we think of as centrifugal is really INTERTIA. also, GRAVITY IS NOT CENTRIPITAL FORCE. gravity is one of the prime forces of the universe, and has NOTHING to do with rotation. it is based TOTALLY on MASS. it is simply the interaction of tides that force the rotation stellar bodies. (i think, this is getting a little advanced). your body has gravity, just not very much, cause you don't have much mass (on a planetary level, anyway) it it the attraction of your mass to the mass of the earth that keeps you help to the ground. if we can ever find something with ZERO mass got done with page two. kec, yes, that seems to be true. you want the laminar flow when you are dealling with the air only, like in the exhaust, laminar flow is critical to exhaust velocity. however, once you add fuel to the mix, laminar flow prohibits the mixing of the fuel. tho you want a LITTLE, to keep intake velocity, but you want most of the intake to be turbulent. that is why when doing head porting, the exhaust is poilished, but the intake is left with 120 grit grinding marks. you want the turbulence to mix up the fuel. rant over. if anyone can school me on the physice presented here, i don't know everything, but want to, so go for it.

they are VERY expensive at eastwood. go here: http://www.bright-works.com/store/html/mini.html they are called goblet buffs. in the long run they will be MUCH cheaper. also brightworks sells all the stuff you need to do a professional quality job. jsut looked at the eastwood site. go to brightworks, they are cheaper, and sell more stuff. you can get the "setup" grits and cold glue them to the goblet, then use the wax bars for the finer stuff. trust me, if you start with a sand cast finish, you need to start with 80 or 120 grit. if you start with the black "emery" bar, it will take three times longer.

please say that you have one of these left. i tried to email, but it bounced. please, please, please.

umm, devils advocate here. is that your dyno sheet. it looks like the one from the cnm site. having dealt woth james, i simply don't trust that the exhaust is the only difference. if it is yours, i apologize. i just don't trust cnm to not "fudge" a dyno run promoting a product that they sold. were the runs "corrected"? were they "correted " with the same baseline? there could be a big difference just in the air temps. hell, the tuneup might account for the diffence, if it was really bad before.

ummm, short answer, no. long answer, yes, if you have enough money. A LOT of money. at least 3 grand. why? if you go and read the any of the rotary boards (nopistons.com) you will see almost everyone leaving the twin turbo behind. mainly cause you have a very difficult time getting the sequential setup to work with anything but the stock computer. since ours never had twin sequantial turbo, there really isn't anyway to get our comps to run two turbos. and, true, really fast rx7s and supras have only one turbo with a small (c. 65 h.p.) nitrous to spool up. remember when Adam Saruwatari (sp?) was running the rx7. he had to spray to get the turbo spooled. also, someone said the rx7 spools twin turbo good with a small motor. sorta. the american rx7 only came with a 1.3 l (13b variants). it is only 1.3 litres, but those 1.3 litres works three times as hard as a piston 1.3. the rotaries get 3 power cycles PER REVOLUTION. we only get 1 power cycle PER TWO REVOLUTIONS. that is at each piston/rotor. so a rotary gets 6 power cylces per rev, we get four per two revs. the rotaries put out much more exhaust volume than we do. and exhaust volume os what turns the turbo. also, when you rebuild a rotary, look at spending AT LEAST 2 grand. as much as 5 for a stock motor!!!! rotaries do not rebuild well, you end up replacing almost every part. they do take boost well tho. forget twin sequential turbo. we don't have the comp to run it. twin parrallel turbo? don't think there is enough exhaust volume to turn 2 at the same time.

if you buy a cheap @$$ wheel that is true. like cragar or somethin they sell in Discount tire wharehouse. if you buy GOOD wheels, they CAN weigh as little as half as much as the stock wheel. of course, that's 800-1100 PER WHEEL. even some steel wheels can be lighter. like a drag-lite. flash back to another poster calling us cheap. 17 or 18 inch wheels will not help in dragrace, but will make a HUGE difference in the way the car handles. from what my shop manual says, the 8 inch front wheel is like 5 mm offset (i think), anf the 9 inch rear is 0 offset (i know). the hard part is finding non-custom-racing wheels with that offset, or lack of. you really have to go to high dollar racing wheels to really drop weight. you can get some off the shelf, but they will probably be the wrong offset, and heavier.

the words "simple" and "swap" do not even belong in the same paragraph. there "simply" is NO SUCH THING as a "simple" swap. or, i guess, the only simple swap is to swap in a stock motor. anything else abd you are in for a lot of pain and money.

we'll do it when i get running. don't be so sure you got me yet. i never said it would be stock. and the longer it takes, the more unstock it is gonna get. like i said, really i would like 400 rwhp n/a. which is very possible. when i can save the money i was thinking about one of those vortech superchargers. that would be sweet. it looks like it might take me four years too. nothin but problems. wish i could get my grand back from that dude. now we are playing around with the crossmemeber, an thinking about either cutting a chunk from the crossmember and reinforcing, or just getting the oil pan redone. not sure yet. right now i'm kinda leaning toward notching the front of the crossmember like an inch or inch and a half, then weld up the hole i just made. the 4l60e tranny is just a tiny bit too big. i men like 1/4 inch or something. it just doesn't want to let the motor sit where it needs to without hitting the tranny tunnel. crap, nothin but trouble.

dammit, i never thought bout looking at the holdens for an oil pan. just counter jockeys at chevy saying, "naaawww". oh, well. 400 horse 350 not streetable???? you've got to be kidding. oh, wait, now that i think about it, for some reason here in austin, texas, we have a HUGE amount of REALLY fast cars. so maybe you don't see as many as i do. i can probably point out ten or eleven 450+ hp f-bodies this saturday night. i'm not kidding. they're all over the place. it makes racing around here really kinda frustrating. we have two or three or the fastest supras in the nation running around too. on got sold on ebay a month or two back (detuned) for 72 grand. i figure i need at least 400 rwhp to keep up with 80% of the crowd around here. i might have to throw a 100 shot on top of that. dunno, we'll have to see when we get there. competition around here is REAL TOUGH. i think conquest351 can back me up on that. of course, right now i am just bench racing. like i said, i haven't even got my motor mounted yet. i have jsut about all the parts, some little stuff i stil need. but i'm about 85% there. just need to figure out how to mount the sbc in there. the mounts on the 350 are like 6 inches in front of where they need to be, and the steering box is in the way of the number 7 header tube. i don't really want to pay for custom headers again, but i will have to.

yes, i am doing a swap with an lt1. Â i am about 3500 bucks in, and the motor isn't even set yet. ls1 will not work. Â heres why. Â we have a front sump pan, ls1 has rear sump. Â with the lt1 it is easy to make a front sump pan. Â they are made from sheatmetal. Â cut and weld. Â but the ls1 has an aluminum cast rear sump oil pan. Â you can't just cut and weld. Â the oil pan is integral to the structure of the block. Â give it up. Â you might be able to do it, but i wouldn't want to pay someone to mod that oil pan. even with the lt1, i need a front sump oil pan, custom headers, and modded crosmember. Â there used to be a guy in here who would sell you all this stuff, but i believe he has gone to business heaven. Â as a matter of fact, if anyone can get in touch with STEVE VINCENT from newport news va, please email me, or tell him to email me, he still has a lot of my stuff. go the easy way, and do it yourself. Â i say i am 3500 bucks in, but to be honest, i am out a grand because of the afformentioned dead business. Â i should have jsut done the work myself to start off with, but my dad was like "we can send the moeny off and have all the stuff back in 3 weeks" Â hahahaahahahahaha, try five months, then dead tele number. anywhoo...... if you are really interested in putting in a REAL motor, instead of a slopar, or muff-stain motor, then email me. Â i can tell you almost exaclty what you will nee to do to get it running. Â it ain't easy, it ain't cheap, but what i'll end up with is c.300rwhp, that is rock solid reliable. someone asked about h.p. output. Â stock was 185 at the flywheel. Â i have a friend here in austin who dropped in a 4.3 with monster blower. Â honestly, for the money you spend on a 4.3, just buy a 350, more potential, parts are cheaper. p.s. if conquest351 is who i think it is, i am closer to being done than he is. right, brian? three years, is that muff-stain wannabe ready yet? i wanna race you when you get done so hurry the hell up!!!!!

just be careful if you hand it to a local. i tried to do the same thing and then ended up having to get teh motor rebuilt again when i crashed after 1400 miles. the bearings were so bad you could not see the oil galley, and the pistons were locked into the block. when i took it back to the place that built it, they told me i had pushed too much boost, causing it to lean out and fry. of course that was bullstinky. i had less than stock boost, 9.5 psi, and an a/f gauge. i never got anywhere near lean. it was just their excuse not to warranty me. so be CAREFULL. do alot of research b4 you commit to a machinist. they are not all thieves like the guys that i dealt with, but many are, so make sure you are dealing with someone reputable.