Mark_T

it may not but why take a chance when it doesn't seem to be a problem. If the wear is a problem I would look at then posablty that the std rockers were worn before the new cam was installed . or in the case of the rollers are the cams ground with the same angle as the stock roller cams are? Mark T

The only hole needed is a hole to the lifter , the rockers shown in the pictures are standard hyd rockers and if you drill a hole to spray more oil around you may be weekening the rockers unnessaraly. The post was about roller rockers and the pictures did not show them. Mark T

Non of the rockers shown are roller rockers. But with an open bearing that is used on the rollers there is no need to have a hole , that will only weeken the rocker. Mark T

I have a trany and rear end out of a 84 supra and the rear end is almost a clone of the quest diff. It would not take much work to put one in a quest and I bet there are a lot more ratios aval. for it than the quest. Mark T

If you want to keep your trany cooler us ATF it absorbes and disapates heat faster because it is thiner. we also found that it helps shif faster and scyros seem to last longer. mark T

The biggest problem is finding the right size tie rod ends, and cutting the fire wall to run the double jointed shaft to the steering shaft. Mark_T

To keep crap out of crank holes run a couple of layers of masking tape around each journal. If you have over 100,000 miles on the engine , make sure you brake the glase as the bores seem to get very hard and honing is very inportant to make sure the rings seat in well. Let us know if the oil rings are pluged up with corbon. Mark_T

The asian/borgwarner is a better trany according to several trans shops I have talked to but only better, it is not a cure for a 300 + HP engine and drag slicks. If you want something to handle gobs of HP you will jhave to spend the money to adapt a chev or ford auto trans that is beefed up to handle that kind of power. Lets face it the small asian tranys are small and are not strong enough to handle 300+ HP engines no matter how much money you spend. If you want to race be prepared to spend lots of money and time to solve problems. Mark_T

The trany that comes in the mit van also comes in the Montero, supra toyota 4 runner cressida PU' s amd toyota vans 84 to 89 So they are not a rare bird. the differance is the front section has the belhousing and over drive and the bolt patteren for the engine. Mark_T

The FWD car has a double ujoint shaft that goes through the fire wall at an angle to match up the steering shaft to the steering rack. The stock shaft can either be shorten to the right distance or the FWD steering shaft can be used with the quest to make a steeringassy that is the right size. The trick is the angle between the steering shaft and the rack. and than where to cut the fire wall so every thing hooks up correctly. Mark T

I have recomended Mitubishi racks ,because they are all the same size or dam close , and they use the same basic pump. I have about 8 racks and many steering colms off FWD mitubishi's And by taking the steering assy off the colum with the plate and part of the fire wall around the plate , so the shaft can hook up with the rack. I would recomend brackets on the crossmember be made with slots to allow the rack to be moved up and down untill every thing fits right . The reamers that can open up the steering arm so the tierod end will fit, are around 100 to 130 bucks. if enough pepole show interest I can have one made and rent it or have yours done hear. i am finally going to have a little time before our 8 month tour of the USA to make a rack an pinion steering setup . I will take pictures and if an old fart can fingure out how I will post them. Have fun Mark_T

I would like to correct a mistake I made in my post about trany bolt patteren for a 2.4 engine . I have a 2.4 engine out of a 87 mitubishi van with fuel injection and it is the same as a 2.6 quest engine. so either the 5 speed or quest auto or the van auto which is the asian borgwarner trany ( better) will bolt up thus solving the trany problem. But the out put shaft is a different size spline so a custom drive shaft with bigger ujoints is needed,as the auto ujoints are farly small. also a DASH head will bolt up with a problem with water jackets and should flow as much as the twin cam, two very large intake valves. Mark_T

For the people who have never rebuilt an engine before ths is what can be done with care and determanation .. David had not rebuilt an engine before but had a good machinest , Kelly helped a lot and he bought good quality parts and when he had a problem he found out what was the best way to solve it . The car runs great and after a minior amount of body work is fixed he should have a car he can be proud of and last a long time Have fun David Mark_T

If you can find one the best head to use would be a sirus dash head , it is a 3 valve per cyl head that was used in the 82 rallie car and the Jackie Chan car it has one small intake valve that opporates to approx 3000 RPM when the comp. turns on the oil everter to the hyd rams on top of the larger set of valves taking the engine from approx 100 hp to 200 hp in 1 to 2 sec . These engines are 2 lt engiones ,but with a 2.4 engine , and a good turbo 300 to 400 hp would be possable with reliablity. Have fun Mark T

For your info on what fits what, The 18. 20. and 2.4 lt engnes all have the same adapter plaate on the back of the enginre thus will bolt up to any 2lt Quest trany or D 50/Mity Max 2.0 or 2.4 4 sp or 87 and newer 5sp. The blocks on all the Mitsubishi 18 20 2.4 2.6 and 3.0 are drilled and taped to be used in either FWD or RWD set ups. The problem with the 63 engine in a Quest is the head is taller witch requires modifing the mounting area to lower the engine . Now there is one exception as far as mounting a 2.0 trany to a 2.6 In the early D 50's that used a 904 auto trans they had a adapter plate that bolted on to the 2.6 engine and had the 2.0 lt bolt patteren to bolt to the trany. The thing that must be remembered inusing this adapter is it is thicker that the normal adapter thus you will need to adjust for the thicker adapter plate. As far as auto trans go it is posable to put together an auto trans to fit either the 2.0 2.4 2.6 or 3.0 engines if you want to . Are there any opther questions ? Have fun Mark_T

I have done a lot of cking on how to install a rack and pinion in a Quest. the 2 ways I came up with were Putting it in front of the crossbrace under the engine using a Volvo rack, so I could unstall a Chev V8 or V6. It intailed welding and cuttring the cross peices from both the Volvo and Quest, and mounting the rack in front of the cross peice. Using the reversed steering arms presented no strenth problems, the tapered tierod end was larger for the Volvo, so I ck into having a tapered reamer made to open up the hole to use the Volvo rod end. After this isdone hooking up the steering shaft to the rack would be done using normal hot rod steering links. the other way was for a standered engine setup in the stock position. I used a rack out a Galant FWD car. made a mounting bracket that was welded in the same place as the center steering rod and than after making a modified hole in the area of the steering shaft I installed the shaft from the FWD and hooked up the rack. Again the tie rod ends were a diff size , need a diferent tie rod end or a reamer. Have fun Mark_T

Since I have been saying that the input shaft bearing shouild be replaced hear is how to do it without tearing the trany apart. First clean the inside of the bealhousing Next remove T/O bearing , arm, and remove the cover over the inputshaft. Remove the snapring that holds the bearing on the shaft. Now tap on the shaft until the shaft bottoms out about 1/4 inch Then pull the shaft up , this will bring the bearing with it . Now I use small pieces of angle iron and slip them under the outer snap ring on the bearing. Then tap on the shaft again until it bottoms again, about 1/2 inch or a little more . Keep doing this process until the bearing is off the shaft. To instal clean shaft and put some anti size on it then in stall the bearing . I use a piece of pipe that is yust big enought to fit over the shaft. Remeber to instal the outer snap ring as not all manufactures supply the bearing with one. Tap the bearing down untill it bottoms and you can put the inner snap ring back on. put the cover , T/O bearing and arm back on , and you are ready to put it back in the car. I usually buy these bearings at a bearing supply house like Besco they usually have a better price. Have fun Mark T

I was looking at what has been posted sofar and I sawone thing I forgot in doing a bottom end . Have the main bearing journals line bored if they are off at all. Have fun Mark T

I would suggest this for a basic short block so the bottom end stays together. A complete washing of the block and crank rods and all small parts drill out the oil passage ways 10 t0 20 % over size Tap all hole with threds smooth rods Smooth crank have crank ck for true throughs ( make sure each through is the same) Have the rods resized and make sure each rod is the same distance center to center, have the rods shot peened . aftere . boring the block install the crank rods and pistons and ck deck height of pistons if any are higher then another take the highest down to the lowest or better yet have an agree with the piston manufacture to replace any pistyon that is not the same pin height . After making sure all the pistons are the same height take it apart and clean all oil holes and all small places for crap to hide with a good solvant then a strong soap and water solution. blow dry with air and paint with a good block paint inside . Put the engine together with care and atten to detail have some one ck all touquing spec's and double ck all bearings . When done seal block and start on head. Have fun mark T

All the mit 2.4 engines use the 2.0 bolt pattern for the trany. All the blocks are dilled and taped for FWD and RWD The Hyundia 2.4 is the same Mit engine . And if you can find a Dash engine They are stock 197 HP and with a 2.4 block should be capable of 300 to 350 hp fairly easy. Have fun Mark T

This is what I have have been woundering if some of the rod bearing problems have been caused by comp differances in cyls. When we raced we ran 12.3 to 1 comp and at 8600 rpm you don't have room for one cyl to have 1/2 cc to much or you will loss that rod bearing beause of detonation. While ccing the head is very inportant the total cc are most inportant. To get the same in each cylinder ww had the crank indexed ground so that every throw was the same . rods exactly the same distance center to center. and after assy the crank ,rods and pistons , ck the height of the pistons and cutting the tops to the height of the shortest one. With this we had no engine problems for 2 years of SCCA nat road racing and were the highest placing independand B sedan at the nationals. so ccing the head is inportant but make sure the total system is also the same in all cyl. Have fun Mark T

Block Open up oil passages aleast 25% and open up crank holes about 10% more oil volume. Open up the side clearence on the rods 1 thou. more oil flow. Head Make sure that all the combution chambers are exactly the same total cc's very important. Consider water injection for power and reduce the chance of detenation. Have fun Mark T

First remove all of the pieces that need to be removed , then wash the intire car with a good comercal wax and oil remover before doing any sanding. The reason is if you sand on the car with wax and oil still on it you will be sanding it into the remaining paint and probalbly end up with fish eye. And remember a good paint job is 99% preperation. Have fun Mark T

Tim A little trick to keep steel bits from cloughing when grinding alumi, stick the hot grinder onto parafene. This works great to keep the grinding tools clear of alumin buildup. Have fun Mark T

Whom ever said that a 350 turbo and a mitisubishi eng( any) withbolt up without an adapter and a special torque converter, is smoking somthing illeagal. I have all the adapter plates and a 350 turbo in my garage and I can say without dought That it is possable to hook up the 4g63 eng and 350 trany making a flex plate and torque converter combanation is a lot harder. The simplest adapter I have seen was a 2.6 engine to a 2lt trany. They took adapter plates from each engine mated them together centered on the crank and welded them together. then drilled out the holes for both the eng and tranyand on the bolts for the engine side they used bolts. On the trany side they used bolts that were welded to the holes and the heads were ground off. Have fun Mark T