Mitsubishi turbos vs the rest

[Cobalt60]

So when thinking about what turbo to upgrade to, I always figured Id get a Mitsubishi for a brand loyalty kind of reasoning. But some of these other brands seem cool, and even Mitsubishi themselves arent brand loyal to some of what they use in the newer Lancers for example.

 

So, whats generally considered to be better than a MHI turbo? And what makes it better? One thing Ive heard of is a "ball bearing" turbo. It seems to me none of the MHI have this.

 

Also, what are some of the non MHI turbos being used in Mitsu vehicles like the Lancer?

 

Thanks

 

-Chris P

[TexasQuest]

Also, what are some of the non MHI turbos being used in Mitsu vehicles like the Lancer?

 

Thanks

 

-Chris P

The 2nd gen eclipse/talon used a T25.

[DieHARDmitsu.]

T25s are krap

 

MHI turbos are good and can tolerate high oil pressures; Garrett T series can't, you have to use an oil restricter on them because anything over 60 psi of oil pressure

results in leaks. Parts to rebuild MHI units can be found easily too.

[Cobalt60]

Cool so whats the most bad MHI turbo for a street car?

 

It might make a difference here, but I always liked the balance shafts. So Im not sure if Id even be running oil pressure that was that high, what do you think (of the amount of oil pressure, not the decision to run BSs)?

[JustPaus_88TSi]

The amount of oil pressure a certain turbo is designed to be used with means absolutely nothing.

 

Rebuild parts for non-MHI turbo's are all over the place also.

 

 

There's no answer to your "most bad MHI turbo" question either.

What do you want from the car? TBI or MPI?

 

 

Pound for pound and dollar for dollar, MHI turbo's get outperformed by the others.

 

 

[Cobalt60]

There's no answer to your "most bad MHI turbo" question either.

What do you want from the car? TBI or MPI?

 

Im not talking about whats appropriate for my car. Just wanna know what the best MHI has to offer compares to the competition.

[Indiana]

If its OEM Mitsibushi nobody will buy them they are too expensive. If its used or copied Mitsubishi then they are reasonable. What you can do is use a good used or rebuild a good used cartridge with a good or genuine rebuild kit then you the cheap housings. Ball bearing turbo.......if I win the lottery I'd waste my money on one. Rebuilding those is a different ballgame I think you must send those in. Maybe in ten years I'll look at one but for know as far as I concerned they are just the latest fad. I'm still using video tapes. Oil floater turbine shafts been around longer than I have.

[JustPaus_88TSi]

Im not talking about whats appropriate for my car. Just wanna know what the best MHI has to offer compares to the competition.

 

 

They don't compare. It's like asking what the best car is. It just doesn't work like that, there's no point in asking unless you are trying to match it to a specific engines parameters and the purpose of the vehicle.

 

MHI is Mitsubishi Heavy Industries, as in commercial products. Think huge workhorse engines designed for frieght. Out of the box, the turbine housings are way way too large for us to use in any practical situation, thus jacking the price up further to frankenstein the unit to fit your needs(which other companies already do off the shelf).

 

Other turbo manufacturers have used MHI compressor wheels though, like a MHI 25G can be found in 67mm turbo's and the MHI 34D can be found in Greddy T88's(76mm).

 

 

Indiana is correct about ball bearing units needing to be sent back to the manufacturer for rebuild.

 

Now there's also borg warner with their S-series units which utilize extended tip turbine wheels for faster spool and higher flow, or others with billet machined compressor wheels.

 

 

[ragdoll_unlimited]

20g is the most versitile turbo around...small motor, big motor, it loves them all!

[JustPaus_88TSi]

20g is the most versitile turbo around...small motor, big motor, it loves them all!

 

Sure, if you stay FAR away from the common TD05 housings. Even the TD06's with H wheels need to be ported hard for optimal use on G54B's. While we can spool larger turbo's due to our stroke and displacement, our heads will remain to flow like crap compared to other motors. Even taking that into account, even a "versatile" 20g can choke up a G54B.

 

It would be like putting a 61mm T4 on a big block with a 0.56 A/R. Sure, it'll spool retardedly quick, but the power will fall off hard and fast, choke the motor if you try and run real boost levels and raise EGT's to dangerous levels in the process.

 

Cost vs. cost, compare a 60-1 Garrett and the 20g shows its weak legs quick.

 

That's also giving up a couple hundred to get the 20g over the 60-1.. A closer price comparison would be 20g versus a PTE67, which just ultimately destroys a 20g in terms of power production and effeciency. The real advantage is the lego-like accessability of other turbo companies who offer many many different turbine housings. This is where MHI fails in the aftermarket scene for the most part when it comes to our cars.

 

But like I said, it's all about what the car is designed to do, and while a garrett is cheaper, it will cost more to get it usable/mountable unless you have fabrication skills. Then it's really a no brainer.

[TexasQuest]

T25s are krap

 

MHI turbos are good

+1

[DieHARDmitsu.]

Look up Bushur racing and other DSM heads and see what the have to say about a TDO6 20G for street application.

I've had one on a quest for 3 years and it worked for me. Ran 15psi, TBI set up, Arp studs, bigger intercooler, 1g mass, ported head, walboro fuel pump and two new injectors. You can get a 20g that bolts up to your stock ex. manifold and down pipe.

 

I've also have two Garrett turbos over the years, a T3 and T3/t4 and I'll say it again, they don't like high oil pressure. The T3/T4 on my MPI car started smoking from the rear seal after 4000 miles.

 

[JustPaus_88TSi]

Again, "high" oil pressure means nothing beyond the initial setup installation.

 

I've ran the same T4 60-1 Garrett for over 52K miles.

[Cobalt60]

Sorry Im just not sure yet if Ill be sinking money into this motor yet, or be doing a swap (prly 4G6x). I think the deciding factor will be if I need my bottom end rebuilt before getting the performance I want. basically, actually making a decision on which Turbo I will need is something that can wait. But if I do decide on a 4G6x swap Im pretty sure Ill be wanting close to 20psi boost, and I think this is where a 20G is comfortable at. But especially once I read that some Lancers do not use Mitsu turbos, I felt that I shouldnt limit my selection either.

[Ernie88TSi]

You can't build engine based on what psi you want and then just pick a turbo later... doesn't work like that.

 

20psi from one turbo is a whole 'nother game compared to 20psi from another turbo.

 

 

Sorry Im just not sure yet if Ill be sinking money into this motor yet, or be doing a swap (prly 4G6x). I think the deciding factor will be if I need my bottom end rebuilt before getting the performance I want. basically, actually making a decision on which Turbo I will need is something that can wait. But if I do decide on a 4G6x swap Im pretty sure Ill be wanting close to 20psi boost, and I think this is where a 20G is comfortable at. But especially once I read that some Lancers do not use Mitsu turbos, I felt that I shouldnt limit my selection either.

[jinx]

i personally wouldn't go near a ball bearing turbo

 

for a comparable size, u won't outgun a mitsu turbo imo.

For bolt-on ease.... unmatched.

 

mitsu turbos show teeth & claws when "wrung out", ~28+psi

Several heavy street DSMs gone 11.8 to 11.4 using $500 evo III 16G.

Try to find a better "small responsive" turbo. Potatoe ? .....pffffft

 

Most powerful TBI car here 334hp/387tq, ET 12.3. td05/18G

 

on the 20G... wanna see a pattern ?

several street cars gone low 11s.

Nissan CA18DET, SR20DET, HRCs FWD eclipse (urbocharged 420A engine)

Torts' well documented DSM went 11.0s. Even after experiencing more expensive

and "new technology" turbos, Steve maintains, "to this day, that 20 is still

the best all-around street turbo". Says alot! Clipped td05, int WG btw.

 

Rollo was the quickest street SQ I can recall, G54 + super 20G. 11.2s, no spray.

20 proven among the best of 'em ....IF set up right

 

onto the garrets....

T3/T4 60-1 has spoken loudly on G54s, posting solid ETs.

Even deadly at low boost, as Tainter 12.4s ET at 14psi showed.

Tried & proven workhorse for very reasonable money, is top notch.

 

I'm sure the right used Holset will run away with the "performance per

dollar" title, BUT.... its up to you to "find" that correct size/match for a 54.

 

I see no point in an expensive fancy 'big turbo' for these "choked up" motors.

We have yet to see one go any quicker

 

[Shelby]

76% effency is not a bad number for a turbo , take a look at a 20g compressor pattern and see for your self,,it's in the zone from say 15 to 25 lbs

but as said the turbo alone is only part of the set up,, you build arround not for

the down side for a 20g is it uses the same exh houseing and waste gate the smaller mits turbos use,,the 16g the 18g 17c etc all use the same houseing , saying that the wastegate exh area needs porting badly , and will make a day and nite diff with a 20g over a stock houseing , but it does have a little low end lag,,some don't like that or don't know how to get arround it and they don't like it because of the lag, but after 3500 to 4k rpms it shows it's stuff