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Took it to the dyno to find out the clutch was sliping.  Right at 3500 RPM the car will stop pulling. ( I thought that it was the boost that i had set at 15psi) but is not.  All air/fuel mix were right on target the entire time. but it sucks now that i found out that the CONVERTER IS SLIPING.  We only did one test on the dyno because of the problem.

I NEED TO KNOW IF THERE IS A TRANSMISION THAT IS GOING TO BOLT RIGHT IN. OR IF THERE IS A COMPANY THAT CAN MAKE A CONVERTER PLATE FOR THE AUTOMATIC TRANNY. I DONT WANT TO GO 5 SPEED AGAIN.

 

Check out ''Level10'' for a custom convertor.. And do the valve body mods, with the addition of a aftermarket tranny oil cooler.. You'll be chirpin into 2nd in no time...

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Numbers?  Well,  they are not official number since the tranny slips right at 3500 RPM.

 

Max Power :  160 @ 3500

Max Torque :  238.4 @ 3500

 

Just Paus...whats the Level 10 and valve mod you talking about bro?

I need that right away!!!!!   I always thought that the slips was just a boost limitation.  Well, now i know...

 

I need mod right away!!!

damn!!!

I only heard of the convertor and the "plate"( so that it shifts hard) but where?

What valve mod? Damn, i am frustrated with this factory auto tranny....

 

Was tested @ 15 PSI.

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pretty nice #s for the rpms (IMHO) .  Maybe the slipping means rebuild time :(  Hate to say it but if your gonna start torturing that auto-trans u might have problems.   Maybe an oilcooler for the trans will help and some new fluid (that b&m shift fluid is good stuff).  I would try that .  Good luck automatic trans turbo cars are fast..
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Thread about the 4-speed mod

 

And www.levelten.com is the other one.. Zactek has a 3100rpm stall torque convertor from them, and has the 4-speed mod done.. Last thing I saw him post, he said it'll chirp from 1-2 and the 2-3 shift..LOL

 

But yeah, like DC said.. a aftermarket tranny oil cooler would be a very wise move..

 

If you read the thread that AGC started, you'll see that there's 3 different shift firmness's...

And from a little convo with Shelby, this mod will actually extend the tranny's life, assuming you have a good cooler on it.. Since slippage=heat and heat=tranny failure-slipping bands/clutches etc..  One part of the mod is that you basically run full tranny fluid pressure all the time.. Higher pressure=less slippage=less heat---longer life etc...

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I've been keeping up wih this post as well as the other couple for a while, and all I can say is this sounds like a great product.  I will, however, say that no one else will buy it unless we start seeing proof of good performance.  I know this might be hard to do with cars breaking and such, but it gets kinda frustrating with all the empty hype going around about this system.  I am by no means bashing Fuel Injection Pro at all, in any way.  I truly want this to be as good as it sounds.  I'm sure I speak for a lot of people when I say I want to hear from these people who have the product installed, and have proof of it's performance gains.  Keep us informed ;D

-Nate

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Once modded, our tranny's(auto's) are pretty stout.. We share our tranny with MANY other cars, mainly Nissan's, like the older 86-89 Turbo 300zx's and such..

 

I'd really try to talk to Zactek, he has the most beefed up auto tranny on the forums I think...

 

Another thing I haven't seen anyone mention, is to have some of the internal auto tranny parts, hardened by freezing(I forget what the process is called), or have some parts zinc coated, or nitride hardened.. Do that, and get a higher stall torque convertor(3100rpms) and do the valve body mods.. You should be good to go after that... Night and day difference, or so i've heard... :)

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as state'd lots of cars use this same tranny , and   how many  miles you got on yours,, 50-70 k more,, you will not find  many tranns  that'l  hold up to a turbo much longer then that  and  cyro coating is for metal  , much of the   holdng  parts in an auto are  compounds like the  clutch disk in the 5 spd but  much smaller , and just like the   5 spd clutch   slipping  means   death to them ,  if your  gona  run hard  you may as well get use'd to the idea it's gona  cost,,but  theres nothing  so complicate'd that most of you can't make it thru the  rebuild your selves if you realy  want to ,  easier then doing a  5 spd , just have to be more careful

 

i can't see how the convertor is slipping at 3500,, whats the  stall speed  rpm on it in  1st  arround 2k  like mine or much  higher , any  convertor i've seen slip was doing so all the time , you were in 3'd  right , if you were in OD  your sliping the  OD  band ,  that happens when your   going into OD  under full boost a lot

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it's darn  easy to tell  if your in OD theres  1000 rpms diff from  3'd to OD

that means at 50 your like 1500 rpms , and  i'l bet any thing it's the OD band thats  sliping not the    convertor

you have to have power to the  control system  to disable the OD , if the  swt don't work  odd's are your right  your in OD all the time ,deff not a good gear to do a dyno  run in  :'(

tell ya  what get  hold of AGC  on Trance's  site and  talk to him he redid his and post'd a  bunch  of pic's of the  diff tranny parts

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  • 1 month later...
This is my daily driver and I havent got time lately to work on it.  Thanks to Ed,  he provided me with a tranny; so what a will do is re-built that one with stronger converter plate and just swap tranny since usually I dont have time to leave the car at the mechanic to repair for things that I know might take a week or so. But soon I'll have some real dyno number he he he
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  • 1 month later...
  • 2 years later...

Well I have the same system but I am running two 96lb msd injectors and a 19c turbo. I still have tuning to do but last dyno at 15lbs boost was

197.8 rwhp and I think torque was like 270. Can do much better I think, but for what dyno tuning is costing me I think I am just going to go MPI next. No since in wasting money on tuning when I really want MPI anyway and I'll just have to re tune. But FIP is everything everyone says it is and more. LOVE driving my Quest again...

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