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swaping a g64b w/ g63t head for the g54b???


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I'm too lazy to go all the way through this thread, but does the g64b block have oil squirters? Or is this even a big deal? From what I understand it is on our blocks, so will this affect higher boosting engines?
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I'm too lazy to go all the way through this thread, but does the g64b block have oil squirters? Or is this even a big deal? From what I understand it is on our blocks, so will this affect higher boosting engines?

 

Nope, you won't find any 2.4L with oil squirters that came from the factory..

However, your machinist can add these in when he's doing the other little prep work...

Some people i've talked to say they don't need the squirters.. Screw that..lol  I'd use them.

 

http://4g64.150m.com/faq.html

http://extremeevolutions.com/4g64_buildup.htm

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interesting read,

 

a DOC head would be very interesting.  i'd love to see it run

 

As far as spun rod bearings on a G54B.   you get what you give is what i think.   My G54B did spin a rod bearing BUT thats after almost 6 years with HARD HARD use and not on purpose ran twice with no oil in the motor (blown stock type oil feed line went bad twice,  it was eather drive it or be stranded in the middle of no where)

 

Yet she still held together.  that ********* was BUILT though

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This subject is something that I’ve been thinking about for a while know since I’ve built a few 4G64/4G63 Hybrids for the DSM guys and there are a few RWD 6bolt 4G64 that we have access to.

First  let me ask you guys why do you even bother with the idea of using a late (7bolt) 4G64 for this swap when there are the 6bolt RWD 4G64 out there that apparently are a direct bolt-on to the Starion transmission? I don’t waste my time building 7bolt engines since I like to stand behind my work and I will never stand behind a 7bolt engine which is just a grenade with a pin pulled.

I believe that if you guys really want to do this swap you should stay away from late 4G64 engine and concentrate on what has to be done to fit a 6bolt 4G63 block in a Starion.

Any thoughts?

 

Mitch Rusu

www.engintecs.com

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This thread is very interesting.  I'm no mitsu engine guru, so can you associate these different engines with source cars for me?  Namely the 6 vs 7-bolt 4G64 and the 6-bolt 4G63?  Thanks in advance.
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Narrow block(12.25'')2.0L 4g63:

6-Bolt-

90-92 DSM, Talon, Eclipse, Laser, Galant etc..

7-Bolt-

93-99 DSM's

 

Wide Block(13.25'')2.0L G63B:

6-Bolt-

83-86 Non-US SQ's.. Gonna be hard to ship one, I would think..

 

Narrow Block 2.4L 4g64:

From what I know, they're all 7 bolt motors.. Except for the Hyundai GC3S 2.4L, that's a 6 bolt..

2.4's came in Eclipse Spyders(convertable's) from 95-04(after 2000 the 2.4 became the base engine) They also came in many Galants(93-97 or 98) Again, a 7 bolt motor.. The 95 Galant GS came with a factory DOHC 2.4L, that one year and GS model only..

 

Wide Block 2.4L G64B:

88-92 or 93 Mitsu/ Mighty Max, and Dodge D-50's..

 

I'd be going straight for the Wide Block 2.4... :)

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The regular 7 bolt is unworthy for several reasons, the main being it suffers badly from crank walk. That happens, it warps the rods, and shoots them outta the side of the block.

 

Now, there are 2 generations of 7 bolters.

The first, is just like the 6 bolt small main. These are sought after by DSM's because the main bearing size is the exact same as the 6 bolt. So the crank and everything is swapable, and these have proven to be stout blocks. They are basically a stock overbore 2.0

 

The 2nd generation 7 bolts are JUNK. Once you get close to 375 HP they grenade. Plain and simple. They have larger mains then the 2.0.

 

Just FYI in this 2.4=7 bolt. 2.0=6 bolt

As far as I know, all 7 bolters are wide block.

There are narrow and wide block 6 bolters.

 

The 7 bolter has the few more CI over the 6 bolter, but only a very limited number of 7 bolters can handle the power level that a 6 bolter can.

 

This also leads to the main arguement of the swap. The trans. Joe and I are going stock D50 just to get the car mobile. Later it will go 700R. We both even have doubts that a quest trans could handle a well built 6 bolter. I personally think it can and would blow it sooner over later. The motors just have too much power compared to the 54.

 

Joe and I are in the final stages of the swap now. We hae even gotten to the point where we are buying hoses and accessory belts. We will be doing a swap quide, and give reasons for certain things that do need to be addressed and changed versus what has been spread around about the swap already. The "given" needed things are not necessarily correct, and need to be changed and addressed.

 

As far as Joe and I know, we will be one of a handful of completed swappers, and even fewer of them that are actually running. We have seen the issues, we have seen the problems, and we have overcome them. We will be more then happy to give advise, and helpful hints. Hell we even have assembly list of what to do first, last ect.

We also have a very complete list of what mods need to be done. Though not all are written down yet, so ask, and it will jog our memory.

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  • 4 weeks later...

i forgot to add this.

 

but if you tore out the 1G wiring harness for the engine, and transfered it to the quest, it would be way way easier. just buy an AEM computer. they plug right in, and have full programability.

 

there are a couple guys near me who have done the 2.4 swap in their 1G's and maybe one guy in a 2G, anyway, i know of one guy who did the swap, built shortblock, AEM and a front mount of course, i don;t know what size injectors, but he put down like 535 wheel hp.  get this: stock 2.0 head, cams, intake manifold, and TB.

 

with mounts you could buy, this swap i think would be much easier.

 

i'll do it. in about 6 or 7 months. hehe.

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still looking for the wide block.  I wanna get started but looks like a no go for me.  The junkyards around here want 650 dollars for a 2.4 from a mighty max/ram50.  That's a lot of money for a engine to tear down and rebuild.

 

Kane

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