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ported marnel head (pics)


artinist
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new cylinder head, springs, valves $500

professional port job $500

one step closer to taking down supercharged M3s, priceless

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anyway, its a bit of an odd port job, at least it seems to me. most of the effort has gone into reshaping both the intake and exhaut port radius and especially the combustion chamber area than the valve stem area. I dont know much about porting so I will have to trust that its done correctly vs. what I would and have seen done with the valve area.

the porter explaing that this is the proper way of improving flow and combustion in a high boost engine and I take his word for it since he does all the heads for my buddies shop who spits out a 600hp corvette a week. lets see if his magic touch will continue here. it was too much work to convert the flow bench from a chevy setup to fit this head but I may be able to get it done at a later time.

 

http://home.earthlink.net/~artinist/images/marnelhead/chamber1.jpg

http://home.earthlink.net/~artinist/images/marnelhead/chamber2.jpg

 

http://home.earthlink.net/~artinist/images/marnelhead/exhaustport1.jpg

exhaust port

 

http://home.earthlink.net/~artinist/images/marnelhead/intakeport.jpg

intake port

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nice job getting good pics.  looks like alot of thick metal around the edges.  I don't know how much can be taken off but did he provide you with any flow data?  would be nice to compare with mike's.  

 

edit: oops nevermind, guess you already answered that.  

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Man thoes chambros look sweet very nice job on that, cant tell he do alot with the ports, deff better but no major hoging, not that it nessarly needs to be. A flow sheet would be awsome.
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what do you guys think about the intake ports.  i know you want the manifold not polished so you have better homogonization,  but what do you guys think about the ports, do you want polished ports? or is a bit rough better for combustion?

 

 

 

 

ps, the head looks good:)

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Yes you want the exhaust polished good, and intake ported good. Hot spots would be caused if there were some larger casting marks that werent taken off.  

Those chambers look good, wonder how much that effects the CC, what comp. are you going to be running?

 

Steven

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WOW, hard to tell how much he removed from those chambers until you compare it to a before pic:

http://www.goldnblack.net/photos/0311sqhd/IMG_2537.JPG

 

Can't really see much done to the bowls, besides a little smoothing of the casting.  Did he really smooth out the inner radius?  Hard to see what he did with the valves in.  

 

I was hoping to get a little more for my money but rates up here are jsut outrageous.  This guys idea of bowl work consisted of simply grinding the inner radius lip off on the exhuast side.  Don't think I'll be going back there again.

 

http://www.goldnblack.net/photos/0311sqhd/IMG_2532.JPG

 

They did a decent job on the exhaust gasket match at least:

http://www.goldnblack.net/photos/0311sqhd/IMG_2533.JPG

http://www.goldnblack.net/photos/0311sqhd/IMG_2534.JPG

 

Steve A.

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thanks StarQuestSir for the pics, i forgot to take before pics.

 

I am not going to smooth out the intake ports any more than what they are. the ports were matched to gasket

 

the porter explained to me that the lower radius where the port actually starts to point down was at too high of an angle and that would be the first thing causing restrictions at high flow so that is what he tried to fix rather than try to just increase the size of the port by raising the roof.

 

I want to end up with an 8.5 compression or close to it so I will end up boosting low  20s. I will probably order 0.1 point higher to make up for the removed material.

 

this combustion chamber should definetly let me run several pound of extra boost without the need for higher octane compared to a stock head.

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this combustion chamber should definetly let me run several pound of extra boost without the need for higher octane compared to a stock head.

 

why's that?  if you have 8.5:1 you have 8.5:1.  It would let you run more boost if it was the only thing you changed, but if you run higher comp pistons to make up for the lost compression you'll be right where you started.  8.5:1 static is safe for about 18psi on pump, MAX.  I'm below 8:1 and feel safe at absolutely no more than 20psi with an octane booster.  Effective compression in my engine at 20psi is probably around 16:1, but that's a rough guess.

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why's that?  if you have 8.5:1 you have 8.5:1.  It would let you run more boost if it was the only thing you changed, but if you run higher comp pistons to make up for the lost compression you'll be right where you started.  8.5:1 static is safe for about 18psi on pump, MAX.  I'm below 8:1 and feel safe at absolutely no more than 20psi with an octane booster.  Effective compression in my engine at 20psi is probably around 16:1, but that's a rough guess.

 

Compression does not directly cause detonation. Heat cases it. By removing hotspots (places in the chamber that would heat up faster than others) you remove chances for endgas auto-ignition.

 

Chip, your safe at 25psi on pump gas! Wanna know why? You have control over your ignition system. Run less ignition advance, the motor won't need it anyway. Just have to tune the ignition back to dial in the pressure, if you so choose.

 

There are many reasons why detonation occurs. But, to answer the questions in your mind already about why you could in fact, with the ability to control your ignition system, run higher boost safely, try to understand why ignition retarding helps keep spark knock away in the first place. The answer is time.

 

Joel

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anyways i dont have any close up pics of my head but when it came from alabama cyl head co the ports looked great,  the shape was great and the machine work great.

https://filebox.vt.edu/users/maperez/Starion/Jun19%2301.JPG

 

i didnt feel the need to port it, im not sure if the caravan head had different port shapes but they were great.

 

http://filebox.vt.edu/users/maperez/Starion/cylhead.jpg

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  • 4 weeks later...

i was over at TEP and pick up a headgasket and also got the ARP headstuds since the price was ok $89.

 

Saw a head sitting on the table. i asked which it was and they said it was the "street port". it was a marnel, combustion chamber was not touched and almost no work done behind the valves. vavle seat area was not hit too hard which i guess is a good thing and they tried to improve the radius. i dont know if the $75 for port matching is extra on top of the port job, in either case I don't think the amount of work matches the price.

 

this is their pricing

Street Port and Polish $280.00

Race port and polish with chamber cc (Not for street car use !!!!!!) $450.00

Match port Intake manifold to head $75.00

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  • 4 weeks later...

ok the head was installed with the much appreciated help of kelly and melayaton.

along with that we installed an adjustable timing gear(shawn) still set at factory location and i upgraded my passenger side intercooler plumbing with a wider aluminum one.

 

i am not sure which mod to credit but there is a major power gain, suprisingly at the low end as well. lag has been reduced by at least 500rpm and the car is definetly hauling an a** and a half and brakes loose the rear tires for a second at around 4000rpm at 19psi. i would have thought most of the gain would have been over 4500rpm.

 

it was mostly trafficy and i havent been able to open up the car on high speed and boost after a much needed oil change. i am taking the car to the track this saturday, hopefully these valve springs will hold up well to the high boost and make a good run.

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ok the head was installed with the much appreciated help of kelly and melayaton.

along with that we installed an adjustable timing gear(shawn) still set at factory location and i upgraded my passenger side intercooler plumbing with a wider aluminum one.

 

i am not sure which mod to credit but there is a major power gain, suprisingly at the low end as well. lag has been reduced by at least 500rpm and the car is definetly hauling an tail and a half and brakes loose the rear tires for a second at around 4000rpm at 19psi. i would have thought most of the gain would have been over 4500rpm.

 

it was mostly trafficy and i havent been able to open up the car on high speed and boost after a much needed oil change. i am taking the car to the track this saturday, hopefully these valve springs will hold up well to the high boost and make a good run.

 

 

That porting REALLY helps!! As you can see Art!

 

This is why I say HOG it out...you won't lose anything on these 2.6 heads because they are WAY restrictive out of the box....

 

Glad to see it worked out good for ya!

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  • 1 month later...
 I'm below 8:1 and feel safe at absolutely no more than 20psi with an octane booster.  Effective compression in my engine at 20psi is probably around 16:1, but that's a rough guess.

                                                                                                                                     youre effective compression ratio is about 18.9:1 at 20 psi with 8.0:1 static compression.

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I personally would not suggest to hog out any head port, no matter if the head is restrictive... thats just my opinion though.

 

14.0@101 isn't bad for a car that has a crappy clutch that won't hold!

 

Joel

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I personally would not suggest to hog out any head port, no matter if the head is restrictive... thats just my opinion though.

 

Joel

Come on Joel, I know you are holding back. Please explain why you don't suggest "hog"ing out a port. Too close to the water jacket? What's your reasoning?

 

CJ

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i strongle recommend getting a light port job done. the area behind the valves and the sparkplug in the combustion chamber really need to be touched up and should not cost most.
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