starquestJOE Posted September 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 17, 2014 Progress has been made! http://i713.photobucket.com/albums/ww135/starquestJOE/20140916_181918_zps8j9wnmdg.jpghttp://i713.photobucket.com/albums/ww135/starquestJOE/20140916_181929_zpsn2cinuwq.jpghttp://i713.photobucket.com/albums/ww135/starquestJOE/20140916_181952_zpsfobyfpb4.jpg only problem is I have no room for a wastegatehttp://i713.photobucket.com/albums/ww135/starquestJOE/20140916_182022_zpsq2zpxt5i.jpg I need something more like thishttp://i713.photobucket.com/albums/ww135/starquestJOE/20140916_182045_zpsjqflds51.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
importwarrior Posted September 17, 2014 Report Share Posted September 17, 2014 (edited) Looks like a tight fit for the down pipe. thought you got a new down pipe with the header from Ronnie? Edited September 17, 2014 by importwarrior Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
starquestJOE Posted September 18, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 18, 2014 It is tight and no I did not get a down pipe Ill have to get a pic of my down pipe. It is over to the right with a flex and the down pipe hits the the fourth runner on the header. As it sits if I mover the down away from the header there is no way to fit the tial 44mm. Only way I can see to fit it is run a section of 3" straight back at the firewall. The hard 90° down the firewall then the same 90° under the car. Or make an adapter to angle the gate like in the pic above. Or re - angle the gate flane on the collecter it s self Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psu_Crash Posted September 18, 2014 Report Share Posted September 18, 2014 I like the progress! I don't like the fitment though ... Glad you are figuring out all the bugs for me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
randy Posted September 18, 2014 Report Share Posted September 18, 2014 man that is really a tight fit there, I guess it would be nice to get the flange onthe header to fit that angle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
starquestJOE Posted September 18, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 18, 2014 Yea randy and the t3 flange angled so the compressor housing wasnt hitting the number 2 boot. If I was to run a smaller frame turbo fitment would be great. Mike I would not suggest the same manifold I got. I would go with a complete redesign or a gato Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
randy Posted September 18, 2014 Report Share Posted September 18, 2014 Looking at the pictures again it look's like that turbo weighs alot,is that header braced?Looks like it's gonna be alot of stress on the head studs, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
starquestJOE Posted September 18, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 18, 2014 With the quality of this manifold it does not need any bracing. The manifold may weigh as much as the turbo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
randy Posted September 18, 2014 Report Share Posted September 18, 2014 So i guess the head studs would be fine with the weight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
starquestJOE Posted September 18, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 18, 2014 http://i713.photobucket.com/albums/ww135/starquestJOE/20140918_085300_zps5noowl8v.jpghttp://i713.photobucket.com/albums/ww135/starquestJOE/20140918_085425_zpsy8gljg42.jpghttp://i713.photobucket.com/albums/ww135/starquestJOE/20140918_085353_zpsagpfvsvl.jpghttp://i713.photobucket.com/albums/ww135/starquestJOE/20140918_085406_zpsjf0qzybz.jpghttp://i713.photobucket.com/albums/ww135/starquestJOE/20140918_085416_zpskscp8isc.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
starquestJOE Posted September 21, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 21, 2014 More progress has been made today. Removed the FIC 650CC INJ and installed the FiveO 1400cc injectors. The fiveo looked taller at first but fit just fine and were the same size as the fic. Tomorrow I will try and get the throttle body installed along with the new t-stat. Also forgot to mention that the start of yesterday got off to a bang! Reason I had started working on the car was I wanted to start it up to check the battery charged and what not. Well when I went to start it up, it just cranked. Then finally it did fire but would not stay running more then 30 second or so. I finally got it to run long enough to get under the hood and found my fuel pressure at 100psi at idle. So I was like great my BEGI RRFPR is shot. I took it apart and cleaned it and reassembled it. Hooked it all back up because I couldnt find anything wrong with it and still 100psi at idle. So now im pissed off then the whole manifold thing ended my day. Earlier today I hit the interwebs and found a overhaul kit for my rrfpr for $30. So that has to be ordered now. And here I was thinking I had everything to get it ready for the dyno at the end of October. Im still goin to hit it hard and try my best to get it done and somewhat tuned. I have to knock some funny funky guy back down the HP LIST !!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StarquestRescue Posted September 21, 2014 Report Share Posted September 21, 2014 (edited) My car is not cooperating either! Hang in there Joe. You are probably going to need to turn the rise rate down on that regulator if you get it working anyway. I suppose it is possible something is blocking the return line. You could bypass the regulator and test run the pump to see if the pressure drops. Edited September 21, 2014 by StarquestRescue Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
starquestJOE Posted September 26, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 26, 2014 (edited) Well john you were right after I already wasted $50. I never thought about this til after I bought the overhaul kit. I just remade the line from the rail to the regulator. I pull ed off and tried to blow threw it and nothing. Here when I made it the rubber inner roled over and just about blocked the line. Lesson learned. So now ill remake it and have the overhaul kit on the side I also got a r154 tranny for when I kill the stocker. And a red 87 that I may or may not have onwed already as well. Looks like turbo auto v8 is a go againhttp://i713.photobucket.com/albums/ww135/starquestJOE/20140719_162351_zpsizjcwkvs.jpg Edited September 26, 2014 by starquestJOE Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
randy Posted September 26, 2014 Report Share Posted September 26, 2014 So problem solved blocked fuel line eh. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rosengrant826 Posted September 26, 2014 Report Share Posted September 26, 2014 2 jay swap that red car. I have a rad and a few little other odds and ends for it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
starquestJOE Posted September 26, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 26, 2014 Turbo lsx is much better then 2waygayz Dont worry ryan your car will live on and my be yours again someday. ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
starquestJOE Posted October 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 1, 2014 (edited) Here is a pic of the forced performance fidanza install kit. It consists of new flywheel bolts, flywheel dowel pin, steel plate for between crank bolts and flywheel, and studs and copper nuts to hold pressure plate to flywheel. Its supposed to help with the forces caused by heavy pressure plates. And to displace clamping force across the whole end of the crank. We will see if it works or not. This wont be my first go around with a fidanza flywheel. Last one destroyed my last motorhttp://i713.photobucket.com/albums/ww135/starquestJOE/20141001_151631_zpshbre4h9h.jpg Edited October 1, 2014 by starquestJOE Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mbruneaux Posted October 1, 2014 Report Share Posted October 1, 2014 Here is a pic of the forced performance fidanza install kit. It consists of new flywheel bolts, flywheel dowel pin, steel plate for between crank bolts and flywheel, and studs and copper nuts to hold pressure plate to flywheel. Its supposed to help with the forces caused by heavy pressure plates. And to displace clamping force across the whole end of the crank. We will see if it works or not. This wont be my first go around with a fidanza flywheel. Last one destroyed my last motorhttp://i713.photobucket.com/albums/ww135/starquestJOE/20141001_151631_zpshbre4h9h.jpg How did it ruin your motor? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
randy Posted October 1, 2014 Report Share Posted October 1, 2014 I guess this is needed for the install. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
starquestJOE Posted October 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 1, 2014 Crank bolts broke off in the crankhttp://i713.photobucket.com/albums/ww135/starquestJOE/P9220011.jpghttp://i713.photobucket.com/albums/ww135/starquestJOE/P9220012.jpghttp://i713.photobucket.com/albums/ww135/starquestJOE/P9220009.jpg and the crank bolts were locite and torqued to spec. Lasted about 900 miles Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
randy Posted October 2, 2014 Report Share Posted October 2, 2014 Do you have any idea why that happened? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MPGorBOOST Posted October 7, 2014 Report Share Posted October 7, 2014 I've had this happen to me a couple of times. Loctite/torqued to spec as well as 2jz arp flywheel bolts(same bolts as G54B just a mil shorter). I dropped the clutch, sheared the alignment pin and I assume that the flywheel may have moved slightly out of center causing an off-balance and shortly after, the flywheel wobble. I used several cobalt drill bits to drill into the (3) hardened steel remains of the flywheel bolts. Even broke a couple easy outs off and had to drill through those too! Managed to clean up the mating surface of the crank and replaced the flywheel and alighment pin. I originally had an automatic car that didn't have an alignment pin for the flywheel so that was my fault on the first pass. The second occurance was because racecar.http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll252/Project88Starion/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-10/2ee0ac31-6e78-493d-b7ea-c9c45a6ae8b5_zps1fec1b28.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mbruneaux Posted October 7, 2014 Report Share Posted October 7, 2014 are there dowl pins missing? that just sounds really odd. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MPGorBOOST Posted October 9, 2014 Report Share Posted October 9, 2014 The dowel pin isn't needed on the automatics, only the manuals. The hole is there but it is covered by the starter flexplate/drive plate/ring gear(whatever the heal the thing is called). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
starquestJOE Posted January 4, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 4, 2015 The flywheel has bein mated to the crank. Now just install clutch kit and tranny. How to do the today Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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