HOLY CRAP pic added

[emagdnim]

Reading comprehension FTW.

[Dad]

I would try pipe tap and pipe plug, some locktite sealer just don't go too tight as it will put outward pressure. looks to me you made the area too thin, all you can do is try it. just snug the plug.

 

 

You could try filling the block but you need to leave at least 2" of water to the top of the block, with all the cooling issues we have I would advise against that.

 

You may try some shops see if the do cold weld repair.

 

Try contacting these people- they are in Ca,

 

http://www.locknstitch.com/ContactUs.htm

 

Dad

[Lusion972]

use that putty thats sold on tv from the orange clean guy...lol, that should work

[DasGunner]

undefined Belzona it what we use on pump flutes ,also when welding cast you should pre-heat and post heat they make a rod called postalloy for stick cast welding Edited May 26, 2008 by DasGunner

[Indiana]

your safer haveing people shoot at you then working in a place like that

there is humor in everything all you have to do is look, I'm trying to hit 5000 posts and I need 4 more

[Indiana]

20 years of heat cycles on the block, removing a huge chunk of what is more of a heat sink than anything else at this point imo is not an improvement, it will make the iron in the water jacket on the side have different expansion properties and you know that oil used to be in that cavity and it acts to cool the metal and maybe its also helping the block on that side be more stiff and help the head bolts to not pull up as much as they would on the exhaust side who is to say but I see more reasons to leave it alone then to saw it off, if you do want to saw it off to remove weight I'd leave about half inch or it sticking out but I'd sure not try and grind it of and make it look pretty like it was never there

 

now you fill the block ok fine I know what that stuff is, but this was about a guy with a water leak and that's all I read, so you want a drag only car ok I understand that short time its ran you may not need the benefit of water but don't you think that will effect the shapes of the cylinders when that heat is so excessinve and wouldn't the added bracing of that balance shaft housing help in that case?

 

We already talked about this here a few years back and we were going to fill a head not a block and change the intake ports to come more down from the top instead of the sucky way of pushing air into the side and having it turn 90 degrees and you know you are filling the block with an aluminum type glue so you must think its heat properties are good why not use it in the head instead and leave the water in the block?

 

If I were going to do that and fill the block I think I'd look into putting sleeves in the cylinders they might be stronger and hold their shape better than the cast iron

 

if you are leaving the water in the head are you going to coat the piston tops to help keep heat off the underside of the piston to help the oil stay a bit cooler?

 

how about using an electric water pump and push water in the front and out the back? or in from the front and the back both and out the exhaust side in the center?

[emagdnim]

You fill the block with a torque plate hone in place to simulate the stresses of the stock head, I have a few buddies running the DSM block filled and its been a great set-up for them so far (The block wont shift at all trust me haha, no sleeves needed.), ill be running coolant threw the back waterport on the head by the firewall and out the front, ill be welding on some -an fittings like I did my last set-up with the EIP manifold, but I sold it to go to a better computer flowed intake manifold that will be a sweet set-up once you see it, other then that I have 2 electric waterpumps one for the liquid to air and the other for pushing water threw the head.

 

I wouldn't know about filling the heads with devcon as I haven't heard of that nor seen it done before, nice idea for porting, but it may warp that aluminum.

 

Real drag cars are a special breed.

[Indiana]

I only meant to try sleeves if you left water in the block

 

I was watching a few years ago a ford 2.3 head that was filled and the inlet ports also filled in then reshaped for a different intake and is was stroked to a 2.8 and was in a circle track car

 

and we were talking about a dohc swap and he suggested something they used to do allot on v8s is to put a head bolt in the block then lock it in and then saw it off, lay your new head on (there is a 2.4 nissan head that is very close) then redrill the deck for the next head studs, if I remember we are talking about 3-4mm off but to get the head chambers to line up you shave the head until you can then port and reshape the combustion chambers to match with the cylinder bore then you come up with some timing gear and we have a dohc motor -and no I haven't did that yet I am but one person and that head also has an mpi manifold already and a header isn't hard to make

 

its all just time and very little money if you think about it all the machine shop has to do is deck the block and drill and tap some holes

 

that rear oil drain to the sump, put a huge bolt in there and plug it out and drain the oil externally with some tubes

 

use g54b cam gears for the valve timing to match the crankshaft

 

mazda had a tool for removing a pin from the stock timing chain, linking it to a new chain and drag it through the motor to change the timing chain with only removing the valve cover then put in a new link pin

Edited May 26, 2008 by Indiana

[emagdnim]

I actually think i saw that nissan head yesterday at the junkyard... i was kinda staring it down a little..

 

 

Sounds like a week worth of work, someone should try it!

[Scotty Dont]

There are three reasons why i did this

 

1 If you can see the two ports that used to be oil drains they are tapped for 1/8 x 1/4 fittings one is used to drain the oil that sits in the old fuel pump cavity the other is tied into the pcv system

 

2 weight reduction

 

3 to be different

 

 

 

I also o-ring my block, removed the air spliter in the tb, and im running a 20g on tbi. all because everyone on this forum thinks these things are taboo :character0285:

 

 

 

To be old and wise you must first be young and dumb!

[Scotty Dont]

I would try pipe tap and pipe plug, some locktite sealer just don't go too tight as it will put outward pressure. looks to me you made the area too thin, all you can do is try it. just snug the plug.

 

 

You could try filling the block but you need to leave at least 2" of water to the top of the block, with all the cooling issues we have I would advise against that.

 

You may try some shops see if the do cold weld repair.

 

Try contacting these people- they are in Ca,

 

http://www.locknstitch.com/ContactUs.htm

 

Dad

 

 

they are in turlock its not too far, ill contact them on tuesday

[blownalky]

they are in turlock its not too far, ill contact them on tuesday

 

I'll never us JB Weld again. It's worthless. You can go to this site: Devcon Products.

I've used their liquid steel and titanium products and it never failed. These are industrial grade products but kind of pricy.

I've used LPS Strong Steel Stick, part number 60159, to repair a buddy's rotted out freeze plug on a V8 and after about a year it's still going strong. The guy simply procrastinates and believes he doesn't need to have a new plug inserted.

Well hope this adds to your help list, that stick is cool and you simply have to cut what you need and knead it until it's uniform in color and seal your crack. Working time is 4 minutes and you can grind, tap, machine in 30 minutes. It'll set you back about 10 to 15 bucks. Not to shabby.

Let me know what you think.

 

~Aloha

[Dad]

Scotty, any update on a fix?

 

 

Dad

[Scotty Dont]

Scotty, any update on a fix?

 

 

Dad

 

 

 

right now im laid up in bead all doped up but when i get better im gunna but water in it and give it a run

 

taking all thing into considering, i ended up jb welding it and laying some fiberglass matting in with the jb

[ronin1653]

I'll never us JB Weld again. It's worthless. You can go to this site: Devcon Products.

I've used their liquid steel and titanium products and it never failed. These are industrial grade products but kind of pricy.

I've used LPS Strong Steel Stick, part number 60159, to repair a buddy's rotted out freeze plug on a V8 and after about a year it's still going strong. The guy simply procrastinates and believes he doesn't need to have a new plug inserted.

Well hope this adds to your help list, that stick is cool and you simply have to cut what you need and knead it until it's uniform in color and seal your crack. Working time is 4 minutes and you can grind, tap, machine in 30 minutes. It'll set you back about 10 to 15 bucks. Not to shabby.

Let me know what you think.

 

~Aloha

 

i got a tube of this stuff called Quick Steel from my local parts store and i use it on my rad that had a hole in the top of the tank. i was removing the mounting tabs for the stock fans and i took a chunk of the rad tank with it!!! Quick Steel been on there for over a year with no leaks at all. good stuff. i hear the same company makes "MIGHTY PUTTY". as seen on TV.

[Scotty Dont]

Got it started again fully warm with no leaks and i reved it quite a few times, just gotta get my innovate and ss brake lines installed then i can get it out on the road

[jwrape]

So what did you end up doing to fix it? What DAD said?

[Scotty Dont]

right now im laid up in bead all doped up but when i get better im gunna but water in it and give it a run

 

taking all thing into considering, i ended up jb welding it and laying some fiberglass matting in with the jb

 

 

we will see if it holds after a few heat cycles

[macrophage]

You cant go cutting large pieces of iron and metal off of blocks. In my opinion when the block

is made, its made with heat and strength in mind so when you cut something major like that whole balance shaft area you are probably undermining the whole block making it lose strength. I think some engines are

probably over weight and overkill design so as to remain strong.

 

Definitly in hard racing.

[Scotty Dont]

You cant go cutting large pieces of iron and metal off of blocks. In my opinion when the block

is made, its made with heat and strength in mind so when you cut something major like that whole balance shaft area you are probably undermining the whole block making it lose strength. I think some engines are

probably over weight and overkill design so as to remain strong.

 

Definitly in hard racing.

 

 

i have put 100 miles on it so far with no leaks or anything like that

 

i believe that i took to much off from that spot combined with the motor sitting in a junk yard and the water jacket rusting away caused the problem

 

i wouldnt hesitate to remove the balance shaft case from my other engine

[TopDawg_43]

i believe that i took to much off from that spot combined with the motor sitting in a junk yard and the water jacket rusting away caused the problem

 

I don't believe cast iron will rust. It will develop surface rust, but it will not sink into the metal.

[Scotty Dont]

I don't believe cast iron will rust. It will develop surface rust, but it will not sink into the metal.

 

 

you should have seen the water passages

[BaltTSI]

The best two part epoxy putty out there is POR15 Epoxy Putty, I have tried them all, JB weld really disappointed me, but this stuff is amazing, it mixes like modeling clay, not flaky like JB, and dries as hard as a rock, I have made parts out of it, put a pair of tail pipes on an old muscle car with it (could never take them off after that either) I keep some around all the time, it really comes in handy, but it's not cheap....you get what you pay for. it's on there website