hunter1 Posted April 18, 2008 Report Share Posted April 18, 2008 Ok so I took my car out today and ran great and then as I went to boost the car detonated and the usual puff of black smoke , then all was good till I tried to boost again It wont once the boost gauge gets to zero vac and zero boost the car falls on its face no matter how gentle I try to be. Oil pressure is good nad car runs great until you hit that mark on the gauge. So what gives ?????? thanks in advance Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JAinsworth Posted April 18, 2008 Report Share Posted April 18, 2008 Sounds like you blew a hose off. Check all your i/c piping and the ovcp. Jimmy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hunter1 Posted April 18, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 18, 2008 I just checked th pipes and they are all on nice and snug.any other thoughts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hunter1 Posted April 18, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 18, 2008 Still neeed help , I really wanna drive my car now that its nice and I cant any info is worth a shot thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JAinsworth Posted April 18, 2008 Report Share Posted April 18, 2008 Will it rev up sitting still? Jimmy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wolf87Conquest Posted April 18, 2008 Report Share Posted April 18, 2008 I'd check the accordian hose...could be collapsing and choking off the air. Any clog/ restiction in air system, from air cleaner/ filter can, MAF, I/C, to TB. Check timing...should be 10 degrees before TDC. Check vac advance....make sure it works properly, and the arm moves the plate...both advance and retard. Vac advance unit might be suspect...not going into retard, or not enough under boost. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hunter1 Posted April 18, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 18, 2008 Well sitting in the garage sitting in neutral I can rev up to 3000 rpm then I get a slight rattle sound which i dont try to push it cause that puts it at zero on the boost meter, and a far as the accordian hose , I have hard pipes so mthats not the issue, give me more I am dying to drive my car, and again thanks to all for your thoughts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JAinsworth Posted April 19, 2008 Report Share Posted April 19, 2008 Well sitting in the garage sitting in neutral I can rev up to 3000 rpm then I get a slight rattle sound which i dont try to push it cause that puts it at zero on the boost meter, and a far as the accordian hose , I have hard pipes so mthats not the issue, give me more I am dying to drive my car, and again thanks to all for your thoughts. Can you burp the throttle sitting still and it rev past 3000 or does it stumble when you press the gas fast and most of the way down? If so, check the secondary inj. and clip. Jimmy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hunter1 Posted April 19, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2008 Ok, So I tried and actually at 3000 rpm it stumbles and no matter what I do It will not go past the 3000 rpm, so now what?? , by the way thanks for all the help from everyone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hunter1 Posted April 19, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2008 Ok so I checked the slips they both have 12.22 volts to them someone said the cut for the secondary to come on is at 3000 rpm which is what I cant get past, So how can I test that injector, also why would a backfire cause the injector to suddenly be bad??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Couth'nize Posted April 19, 2008 Report Share Posted April 19, 2008 Go to Autozone and get two of these: Part# 800-9213 http://www.autozone.com/images/products/gps/gps800-9213003.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hunter1 Posted April 19, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2008 well I could but if I am reading 12 volts wouldnt my injector clips be fine? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vbrad511 Posted April 19, 2008 Report Share Posted April 19, 2008 Go to page two, about halfway down; http://starquest.i-x.net/viewtopic.php?t=1031 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hunter1 Posted April 19, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2008 I assume you are talking about the injecotr clips, well I will go tomorrow and get some , I still have a Hard time believing that that is whats wrong It was one bad detonation and now I have a bad injector what gives not to metion they are both at 12 volts on the clips. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wolf87Conquest Posted April 20, 2008 Report Share Posted April 20, 2008 The clips for both injectors should have 12 volts with key on at all times...they are cycled (turned on and off) by the ground supplied by the ECU. It dies (chokes) around 3000 rpm...sure sounds like secondary injector isn't firing as it should. The clips can still be dirty and not allowing the electricity get thru. Clips are quite small, very difficult to clean properly..replace them to ensure they are clean...clean the pins on the injectors where the clips attach as well. Wrap a hacksaw blade with the finest grit sandpaper you can find..a few strokes to clean. You don't want to remove anything but the dirt/ crud. Make sure the new clips fit tight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikec Posted April 20, 2008 Report Share Posted April 20, 2008 Quick test of the secondary: with the engine warmed up and idling in the driveway, in neutral, stomp on the gas. If the engine bucks/stalls, the secondary is NOT working. Another test: engine warmed up again... shut it off. Unplug the electrical connectors on the two injectors. Plug the one from the black injector (the primary) into the blue/green (secondary) injector. Now try starting the engine... it should start and idle if the secondary is working. The idle will be lumpy - since there is too much gas - but it should idle if the secondary is working. If the car passes the second test, but flunks the first test, then the problem may not be the secondary injector itself... it can be the secondary's electrical connector (aka "injector clip"), a bad wire from the clip to the ECU, or a bad ECU. Common issues: * the (fragile) prongs of the injector itself are dirty/corroded. A teeny swatch of sandpaper folded over a small screwdriver tip makes a good cleaning tool... or a small emory/nail file. * The metal bits of the connector for the injectors have gotten dirty, corroded, or have lost their spring-grip. New injector "clips" are the best repair; fixing the old ones rarely works. * On pre-88 cars, the ECU connectors are mounted on the top of the ECU... where they catch any water from a leaking windshield. mike c. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hunter1 Posted April 20, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 20, 2008 Wow Thanks for the great info I switched the clips and it still ran the same So Now I will try and find where to get the proper clip, since from what I read Part # 800-9213 is not the one to use per the link farther up on this post So I just need to know where to get the right ones And I will try that and post back when I try new ones, thanks everyone and if you have further thoughts I am willing to try anything at this point Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
natedog_37 Posted April 20, 2008 Report Share Posted April 20, 2008 Yeah I just read that the 800-9213 clips are wrong, but I read on here they are the ones you need. can any speak on this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shelby Posted April 21, 2008 Report Share Posted April 21, 2008 for a short refresher course,,this system runs basicly one "1" inj at a time idle and cruise on the pri inj,, above 3k and under boost on the sec inj. wot under boost the pri comes back on but only @ high rpms.. and the connection on the inj terminal it's self is just as important as the clip,, replaceing only the inj clip is only 1/2 the job,, cleaning the actual terminals them selves is the rest and nessarry ,, you can be as hard head'd as you want but nothing will change the fact the injs must have a clean tight connection the total area of metal to metal contact is very small on the injs, less then .010" per clip so it don't take much to mess up the connection Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Couth'nize Posted April 21, 2008 Report Share Posted April 21, 2008 Yeah I just read that the 800-9213 clips are wrong, but I read on here they are the ones you need. can any speak on this? I'm pretty sure it's the right part number....That's what I put on both of my cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hunter1 Posted April 21, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2008 I'm pretty sure it's the right part number....That's what I put on both of my cars. I am wondering if you have had any issued cause if you use think link farther up in this post and go to page 2 as it says and half way down it says to not use that part.??? anyone else wanna chime in on this and where I can get correct ones? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wolf87Conquest Posted April 21, 2008 Report Share Posted April 21, 2008 There is a member here, Dad, who can sell you the correct parts. Many people here have gotten parts from him. Contact Dad the easy way...look him up in member list. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Couth'nize Posted April 22, 2008 Report Share Posted April 22, 2008 I am wondering if you have had any issued cause if you use think link farther up in this post and go to page 2 as it says and half way down it says to not use that part.??? anyone else wanna chime in on this and where I can get correct ones? Okay...I'd just look at the link you mention. I'll have to check mine now. Yeap, DAD is the man to get factory parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Couth'nize Posted April 22, 2008 Report Share Posted April 22, 2008 Mine didn't crack...but when I trim off the lower part (red arrow) with a hobby knife, it slide in more smoothly. I had originally bought these for my Nissan 280zx and since they fit the Starquest (snug ), I'd decide to use them. http://img134.imageshack.us/img134/7771/trimeq1.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hunter1 Posted April 24, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2008 Ok , I am Back just to finish let everyone one who was so willing to hellp, and maybe help another person, I went to tainters house today, and well kudos to both luke and matt. Basically they changed the clips no change changed tps no change, rechecked everything, So then we checked the mas and well there was a small part of the cardboard stuff in the chamber that had come loose so we swapped the mas and low and behold ran like a champ. Tainters say it is a first for such a weird thing that it ran so bad because of that. Anyway So I will eb searching for a new mas if you have one or better yet a 1g I really need to get one thanks to everyone who tried to help. And to the tainters for taking the time to help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts